Bedini Earth Light

[vintasalo]

@MonsierM.. When you watch the whole video the ice works as well as the cold water. This goes to show how tornadoes and hurricanes form. Hot and Cold together produce an electrical current

@IBpointless.. I did an experiment with three different glues plus sodium silicate. What i found was that the regular school glue worked the best and provided the best output or MA.

Elmer Glues:

Craft bond/ Glue all/ School glue all had the same copper/ mag setup

The School Glue worked the best! Now I'm going to try a few different materials in the glue

[DadHav]

Glue Power

Hello, I've tried a few experiments with the school glue. I cut some 4 inch strips of circuit board plate and glued a small piece of magnesium to the copper with the Epsom and Salt substitute. I also tried a few combinations with Alum. I actually had pretty good luck with the glue. I was able to run the Tesla coil oscillator with no problem. It stopped after a full day but after disconnecting for a full day and connecting again it's been running strong for about a week know. I also tried a cell made from pennies. So this would be a zinc / copper cell with the glue / Epsom / salt sub in between the pieces. I set the cell in a food dehydrator while clamped together for about a half day and it seemed to be dry enough to test. The cell was just over 3 volts and could light a diode without an oscillator. Thought the day the voltage dropped just below the on voltage for the LED. So far it runs very strong on the Tesla coil / Rusty LidMotor oscillator. I can easily light a 24 LED display and hold a voltage of about 1.3 volts. I don't know if it will hold up but it's really cute. I had corrosion on the strip cell with alum but don't know yet about the plain glue.

[DadHav]

Extra picture

Hey you forgot one picture: The Powerpenny cell running 24 LED's with the Tesla / Rusty LidMotor Pancake Coil Oscillator.
John Hav.

[vintasalo]

Hey you forgot one picture: The Powerpenny cell running 24 LED's with the Tesla / Rusty LidMotor Pancake Coil Oscillator.
John Hav.

Not to shabby.. Looks bright! I had a voltaic pile of these and eventually the power was lost, yet I was using Sodium silicate as my previous glue. I'll have to try this again with the school glue.

I'm going to try some experiments with different elements added to the epson/salt sub/ glue mix and see what results i get.

[b_rads]

@DadHav and vintasalo,
I did some experiments with glue using different mixes based on the Monothermal Patent that proved to be very good cells, using copper/magnesium and also copper/zinc pennies that proved to be interesting cells. The warmer temps brought considerably higher output to these cells and they ended up lasting for several months. At the time these were made, I did not have the pancake joule thief or the penny joule thief that lidmotor shared with us. I ran LED’s directly from the cells. Since I could not get my hands on Phosphorus Red, I sort of drifted away from this method, but your work has gotten me interested in giving this another go. Crazy thing was plant fertilizer gave me some of my best results. When the cells expired, there was no or at least very little degradation of the metals. See the chart in the pdf and try to select mixes with that in mind. Please post results if you decide to try anything like this.
Brad S

[Freezer]

Just wanted to post an update, here is an image of a pure zinc/lead cell after about 10 discharge cycles. Doesn't seem to be degrading much, although the led did eventually go out after a couple days.
http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/9471/zlc3.jpg

I tried a graphite/lead cell with the same mix, but it didn't show the same response.
http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/5383/glc2.jpg
http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/6573/glc2c1.jpg

[DadHav]

@DadHav and vintasalo,
I did some experiments with glue using different mixes based on the Monothermal Patent that proved to be very good cells, using copper/magnesium and also copper/zinc pennies that proved to be interesting cells. The warmer temps brought considerably higher output to these cells and they ended up lasting for several months. At the time these were made, I did not have the pancake joule thief or the penny joule thief that lidmotor shared with us. I ran LED’s directly from the cells. Since I could not get my hands on Phosphorus Red, I sort of drifted away from this method, but your work has gotten me interested in giving this another go. Crazy thing was plant fertilizer gave me some of my best results. When the cells expired, there was no or at least very little degradation of the metals. See the chart in the pdf and try to select mixes with that in mind. Please post results if you decide to try anything like this.
Brad S

Brad / Vin
I'm just bouncing around trying different things to see what might work but you are right my cell sort of died out after about a week of running the oscillator. Let me tell you some interesting things that took place. I decided to try charging the cell made from the pennies. I laughed when I hooked up the power supply because the impedance is so high on cell that it didn't mater what voltage I set, it wouldn't draw any current on the readout. So in this case it would mean that at 20 volts the current draw had to be less than 10ma to not show up on the PS meter. OK so I just plugged it into the output of my window motor that was running on a capacitor at about 2.2 volts. The output was a little higher with about 10 volt spikes. After a few hours and about an hour prior on the power supply, the cell lit the diode again. After the cell settled down to 2.452 volts it has been lighting the diode for several hours and has only dropped to 2.450 and it is fluctuating at that voltage. This looks like it's going to run a long time on a charge. I didn't expect that at all. OK, the bad news is the cell impedance is hard to work with. My window motor that will usually run at under a volt will not run on this penny cell even at 1.5 - 2 volts. It's hard to get used to and you keep thinking you must be out of tune but it's the cell impedance. You can have voltage that the load doesn't draw down but you have very little current to back up the voltage. WATT did I just say. Now to add to that I checked the current draw on the diode that was lit but not real bright. It was running at 5 uA. This is a diode from a $1.00 lawn light from Dollar tree. I never remembered these running so low. It's not surprising that the cell isn't dropping fast. I made another cell and this time ground the Epsom / Salt substitute into a very fine powder before adding the glue. I used the School Glue version of Elmer's and used only about the equivalent of maybe 4 drops to mix about a tablespoon full of salts. At first it doesn't want to mix but then the salts seem to let go of some moisture. I sanded the pennies with a 3 inch rubber backed sanding disk in the drill press. (naturally one side) I also filed the zinc side edge into a chamfer. One by one I piled up the pennies with about 1/6 inch of past between each layer. The wires where already soldered on the end pieces. I squeeze the whole stack in a small tooling vise with insulators so not to short the cell out, and then put the whole thing in the food dehydrator at about 150 degrees F for about 5 or 6 hours. After that I clean the outside of the cell carefully to make sure no paste is on the outside of the cell. I was trying not to get any current path from the zinc penny face to the edge of the coin. Thats the reason for the chamfer, it makes it easier to separate the anode and cathode.
Notes:
-Very high impedance. Voltage can actually be there without much current.
-Rechargeable? It looks like it. Still checking to see if it stays charged. Also some like to charge these cells with a dry cell. This would be perfect because you wouldn't draw much current from the charge battery and the voltage doesn't seem to matter.
Anyway this is all straight off the cuff and the whole thing could change tomorrow but I thought I'd jump in while the conversation is fresh.
I'm sorry if IB or JB or anyone else has already posted something similar. I just can't seem to read enough anymore.
Thanks for the fun idea IB. It's been fun even if it doesn't pan out. If it works good we can turn our walls into giant glue cells.
Take care all.
John Hav.

[plengo]

Mr Hav,

your pennies cell is super interesting. I am working with pennies now too (Crystal Cell Dry - 1 - Cooking - YouTube.

My technique is towards protecting the Magnesium. I think I did it. In this video, I am using a mix of Alum and MnO2 to corrode first 1mm of the Magnesium surface.

What this does is create a layer that does not allow any longer Alum with water to corrode the metal. If no excessive water is used.

On top of that I put another mix (which I will show on another video) of Alum, Epson and Di-Carbonate Sodium which becomes a "fomy" structure that loves water and it is very conductive.

In the end I have a cell the produces a good current, 2 to 5ma at .4v constantly until need a, literally, drop of water, that never reaches the Magnesium.

Fausto.

[Allwest]

They run at 1.2 volts at 2 Ma to run the led he needs two cells unless you use the oscillator.

Hmmm 1.47 volts 1.4Ma without charge (close maybe)

Allwest "DRY" power cell - YouTube

[Allwest]

To All

I think I know where the power is coming from on these dry crystal cells,

My testing shows this but...

Just to confirm IB has the perfect setup to test the theory

IB, you around?

[CrystalDipoleMatrix]

Yeah IB, your the best! Your crystal glue cell rocks! Just don't know why they keep on working for so long. I quit on working on bedini's cells because they need water and corode away but yours with aluminium and copper, wow! We need to know why this is working but we all know, in the micro-amp range..

[ibpointless2]

Yes I'm still around and still working on my cells.

"It was brought to my attention that the Crystal glue cell could be making magnesium chloride. Magnesium chloride absorbs water from the air like crazy. So if its making magnesium chloride that its nothing more than a water battery. So I ran some test that can not confirm that its pulling water from the air and thus is the reason why it works. I've made a table salt and Epsom salt glue cell and it has the same opportunities to make magnesium chloride but it does not and it dies off. Also physical appearance of the crystal glue cell to the magnesium chloride cell shows that the crystal glue cell rock hard while the magnesium chloride cell is wet and gooey. If the crystal glue cell was pulling water from the air than the glue would never dry and it would remain wet looking like the magnesium chloride and glue cell. It can not be confirmed that the crystal glue cell is a water battery."

Video.... Is The Magnesium Chloride the Reason why the Crystal Glue Cell works - YouTube

Here is the data...... https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...TN2Q2pfWjVKZVE

[CrystalDipoleMatrix]

Crystal glue cell under load

I have a question for you IB: I've made your crystal glue cell and yes the voltage is steady but as soon as I load it, the current jump back up but then it runs down to almost nothing (it takes a long time to do it). Maybe it's the wrong kind of glue? The glue becomes transparent when it dries and is non-toxic. It's all purpose white glue but not the elmers brand. I have some elmers wood glue too but I think it contains some nasty chemicals to make it bonds to the wood more easily. I just made a simple test: I cut between the copper and aluminium strips to separate them and I placed the copper over the aluminium to see if I have a ''skin effect'' like in your videos and....Nothing...Strange! Why??

[CrystalDipoleMatrix]

I will make another cell with the elmers wood glue to see if it's the chemicals in the elmers brand that changes everything.

[ibpointless2]

I have a question for you IB: I've made your crystal glue cell and yes the voltage is steady but as soon as I load it, the current jump back up but then it runs down to almost nothing (it takes a long time to do it). Maybe it's the wrong kind of glue? The glue becomes transparent when it dries and is non-toxic. It's all purpose white glue but not the elmers brand. I have some elmers wood glue too but I think it contains some nasty chemicals to make it bonds to the wood more easily. I just made a simple test: I cut between the copper and aluminium strips to separate them and I placed the copper over the aluminium to see if I have a ''skin effect'' like in your videos and....Nothing...Strange! Why??

The glue itself has nothing to do with why the cell works. Its the water in the glue that is key. The water in the glue allows the salt sub and Epsom salt to mix into something else. When the glue dries the water is being evaporated from it so the glue becomes hard. When the water evaporates the "something else" that is created is what allows the cells to keep working without having to add water to it. The skin effect is why my 5 foot tall, 6 inch, and 2 foot crystal copper tube cells work. Same ingredients (salt sub and Epsom salt) but glue is not used. The Glue is merely a support and has no real purpose other than to act as a support. The key point is that water is needed to mix the two salts into one salt, and when the water evaporates the cell still works. When other cells dry out they stop working but my cells keep going.

I'm still searching for the "Why" it works and I thought it could have been Magnesium chloride was the reason but testing showed that it can't be confirmed. So far its still unknown why my cells work.