Bedini Earth Light

[pengrove]

Wow John you are using some serious semiconductor materials.

Strontium Titanate (SrTiO3) Nano Powder
99.95%, Sr:Ti atomic ratio 0.998-1.002, average particle size ~100 nm (SEM & BET), BET specific surface area (SSA) > 10 m2/g, cubic phase (XRD)

Applications:
Varistors, high temperature superconducts (HTSc), tunable microwave devices, tunable RF filters, high-k gate dielectric material, optical windows, DRAM, etc.

Quantity & Price
100 g $ 58.00
250 g $ 87.00
500 g $ 145.00


Barium Titanate Nano Powder

99.95%, Ba:Ti atomic ratio 0.999-1.001, average particle size ~100 nm (SEM & BET), BET specific surface area (SSA) > 10 m2/g, cubic phase (XRD)

Applications:
As a true breakthrough material in the electronic ceramics industry for more than half a century, barium titanate (BaTiO3) has found widespread use in multi-layer ceramic capacitors (MLCCs), piezoelectric & ferroelectric components, embedded decoupling capacitors (EDC), PTC thermistors, ceramic filters, etc.

Quantity & Price
100 g $ 41.00
250 g $ 68.00
500 g $ 94.00

Very cool man. Trial and error could get expensive but the end results sound very promising.

Thanks

[pengrove]

anode rods out of water heaters are a good source for magnesium.

[chuck H]

Cells

@ Blackchisel97, and all


Cells are semiconductor copper bowl (Heated black then into Borax water) about 3" bowl, Magnesium disc about 1"x1/2", insulator (paper towel, coffee filter etc...), 3-4 table spoons Alum, and misting of Alum water (distilled of course). There are many ways to make this cell. I have not posted these as of yet as I'm still testing. I will try to post on some of these variations later this weekend or early next week. Johns version with the copper bowl seems to work "EXTREMELY WELL". I also have 1 that works "EXTREMELY WELL" that is a copper foil wrap (thick) on a Magnesium round that is 1+ inches round and about 2 inches long. Some of these cells have been working very well for sometime now. The Magnesium ribbon will work for testing but does not have enough surface area to produce long lasting cells. The cell will break down very quick (Magnesium) copper and Alum will be fine. Parallel and or series these cells and keep current draw down and they will last a VERY long time with just adding distilled Alum water. Be very mindfull of the way you build these as the Alum will grow. Alow 2-3 times the area for growth. John is still testing the cement cells with the new doping materials... will post updates as testing progresses...

[mk1]

@Chuck H

Really nice idea the copper bowl . I presume the shape is acting like a receiver .
You mentioned it was borax treated so dose it mean its a positive gate ?

But the idea it gave me was maybe a second bowl could be added to make it a capacitor arrangement , i bet it would be even better as a sphere . It would make a perfect wave catcher .

@all

I had time to thing about this , and at some point i think we will have to decide what should power the battery , Heat , gravity , magnetism ...

Based on some reading about Carborundum in batteries is was mentioned that when used in a pulse system is was heat sensitive .

I know some crystals change shape under magnetic stress , why not couple it with piezoelectric crystals , and make the anode and cathode like coils so putting the battery on is actually activating a process .

There is also the soft iron vs copper coil (ns) .

There is more to it , first John made the demonstration of each coil separate , what did we learn ? the coils have opposite reaction to the current of the battery . One wire is magnetic in nature and one diamagnetic .

There is no simple way to say this , so here it is .

The Ns coil show that you can spin a wheel without current , because it not electric current or magnetic current its both ( gravety ) They each cancel each other to the meter making them invisible but the effect is still there Laser saber proved it .

Sorry for my rant .

I just hope i am not the only one to have seen this .

Mk1

[John_Bedini]

Bedini Earth Lights/ Crystal Batteries

To everybody,

I have been working on these cells for quite some time now.
What I have found is that this cells correspond to age as the Crystal starts to grow as time goes on the cell becomes more of a semi conductor.
Yes, I have use the Barium Titanate and the Strontium Titanate and although this works pretty well at low levels it does not give me the same output as the Alum cell with a semi conductor copper.

If you're making the alum Cells you want to use semi conductive copper so you have to make that copper. How you make that copper is by heating the copper and then after the copper turns black you must dip it in a borax solution. You might have to do this two or three times to get it correct.

Chuck is absolutely right in what he is telling you about the alum cells, it takes a lot of serious work to get these things to work on a continuous basis. But for a few drops of water you can have batteries that last and last and if you use the correct materials with the correct proportions of alum versus magnesium. Magnesium does not seem to degraded at all.

I run the FM transmitter every day since I have built it, it seems to just keep going with a few drops of water. Chuck is actually gotten in the car, the transmission of this little FM unit seems to go about I would say a good third of a mile or more this is quite an area to cover with a very low powered FM. The alum cells seem to keep the current up for this little device. Chuck and I will be in adding more and more as we go along with building these cells.

John B.

[John_Bedini]

Bedini Earth Lights/ Crystal Battery

I don't consider this a rant. You seem to be very observant on what you're talking about here. You do know that Carborundum will emit light if you put the correct voltage to it, and that is just in a straight Crystal rock.

MK 1, their are a lot of things people do not know about these crystals, it is very true that the electromagnetic spectrum takes into account many different things in the way it works. But I can't cover all of this on the group. I have found some very strange things that have to do with crystals. Like one way would be to just pick a rock somewhere, and drill with a cement drill and place electrodes in it and do your measurements that way. But you are correct in what you're saying . I want you all to remember what I said about semi conductive copper, and that would be the electrodes that you place in the rock.

John B

[DadHav]

Getting started

Hello. Man, I wish I would have passed my chemistry class! I hope you'll indulge my beginners questions and observations. I've been trying to read and catch up as well as find answers to some basics. I have Eye infections so my reading is badly hindered and I'm sure I'm missing much. I've been trying some simple carbon, magnesium and copper cell. So far I've had a measure of success. I can run my window motors with them but I can spit on a nail and run them too. I know a mix using Alum and Borax is advisable and I use it, but I couldn't find a recommendation for the concentration. I have used carbon, graphite and copper as an anode, as well as copper as a cathode with carbon. I have also wound a battery with both a carbon anode as well as a coiled copper anode in the same battery with magnesium for the cathode. My batteries have all been small compared to most I've seen and I seem to have much more luck with them being very wet. I can understand the desire to use as little water as possible but don't know if it is detrimental to use a lot of water. I have also tried layering the windings with small cells as in one of my videos. I used a graphite anode and wound six layers of magnesium ribbon separated with paper insulation. I think this gave more magnesium surface but feel getting to far away from the anode may decrease the usefulness of all the layers. Not sure about that. I used some salt and ruined the cells. I read that using felt is a good idea as a separator, but I tried something different. I used what I think is a synthetic shammi (spelling?) This is what you wipe your car dry with. Reason being I thought it would hold the moisture. This seemed to work well for me. I very scientifically figured the circumference of my pipe and cut a piece to wrap around, holding it in place with dental floss twisted up and down. The shammi (Product name Sham Wow from Dollar Tree) swells up a little when moistened and seems to tighten the windings up. I have tried winding the magnesium without leaving a gap and it seems to work well, but I don't know if there's a reason not to do this. I would like to master the basics before going on to try something more exciting. I would like to try a multi cell in one package by alternating layers of copper wire and magnesium ribbon around a pipe then connecting the layers in series. I wonder if anyone has tried this yet.
I can't believe I spilled out all these thoughts for my first post. I'm sure someone will say everything has already been asked and covered in the thread. If so I fully understand and will go back to reading as well as I can for now.
Thank you very much for any answer, suggestion or comment you might be kind enough to levy.
John H (Dad Hav)

[Inquorate]

The circuit

Btw, i can't get the open field joule thief to work.. The Led only turns on when i disconnect the circuit from pos or neg. Others are having problems also. I wonder if this is a tricky circuit; i believe i understand how it's meant to oscillate, and i bought the exact parts but no joy.

Is there a way to make the open field oscillator model or concept, in a more robust way?

If i get time i'll play with it more but i doubt i'll get time soon.

[blackchisel97]

Btw, i can't get the open field joule thief to work.. The Led only turns on when i disconnect the circuit from pos or neg. Others are having problems also. I wonder if this is a tricky circuit; i believe i understand how it's meant to oscillate, and i bought the exact parts but no joy.

Is there a way to make the open field oscillator model or concept, in a more robust way?

If i get time i'll play with it more but i doubt i'll get time soon.

Ben, replace fixed resistor with pot, 20 - 50k. That's what I did. You'll find that LED will be brightest not necessary at lowest resistance but at certain spot. There is a different resonant point for different cells.

@John Bedini. Do you think we can get any sort of useful semiconductor for these batteries by hydrochloric acid and baking? I know it involves >1200 C oven and I'm hunting for one. I'm not after gold but reading of Russell and Schauberger keeps me awake lately. Especially Russell's Spiral of Elements

Thanks
Vtech

[mikrovolt]

About the circuit, how to

faq

How to get the circuit up and running ?
a useful question.

The videos have most of the how to instructions.
lets start at the beginning post at paragraph 2 of post #3:

Feb 2; John begins the circuit calling it " a forced monople oscillator "
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tml#post128960

video february 4; John further describes a monopole circuit for is mg/carbon earth light.
YouTube - Earth Light 5

by february 15; 11 days later John has the crystal cell worked out, nice job! probably still working.
YouTube - Energenx's Channel

While the cell is part of the circuit the cell has had different arrangements in answer to questions.
The pure magnesium/ carbon cell is complete but our understanding of the zpe is continuing.

In going further with the principals of crystal cells John begins the solid state cells.
At this point it becomes necessary to roast copper sheeting to get the cuprous oxide on copper (a one way gate).
The ability to successfully produce this unique metal is part of a natural development into solid state cells.
I could not find copper/cuprous oxide sheets already processed and as the need be, we must make do by making our own.
How does the circuit work ? Is there a tunneling mechanism where energy can be inclined to flow ?


YouTube - Copper Oxide Rectifier with Magnesium and Alum water ready for use in Crystal cell.wmv

YouTube - Copper Oxide Rectifierpositive with Galina Lead Sulfide pbso4 negitive powering osilator circuit

thankyou for the faq as it will improve the documentation and ease of replication and understanding.

[Lidmotor]

Semiconductor copper cell

@John B. and Chuck H.
I made one of those semiconductor copper cells yesterday and it worked very well. I used a short 2" piece of copper pipe with a marine zinc inside. High quality paper shop towel coated in an Alum/distilled water paste was used as the separator. The copper pipe was simply heated up on the kitchen stove until it turned black. It was then quenched in a bowl filled with water and borax to remove the scale like you showed. I followed your instructional video otherwise I would have never figured out how this was done. The cell only puts out about a volt because I used zinc instead of magnesium but it is much stronger than when I tried it without first treating the copper. It will run an LED oscillator very well. The sacrifical marine zinc anode is an alloy meant to work in sea water so it should last an extremely long time in this distilled water and Alum cell.

YouTube - Semiconductor copper cell.ASF

@DadHav
I initially got very interested in this "crystal cell" idea after I replicated John Bedini's "rock battery" that used a piece of iron pyrite rock as the cathode. That rock has built in semiconductor properties and that got me thinking about maybe --just maybe-- Hutchinson and Reid were not completely nuts and there WAS a way to make electricity using crystals (solid state electrolyte) instead of the conventional galvanic way. I knew if John Bedini was going to show us how ---then I was going to hang around.
Try making a simple concrete cell to start out. It is a good way grasp the basic idea of crystal structured ionic transfer instead of a liquid based one.

Lidmotor

[ibpointless2]

Ok so I've built my first Bedini Earth Light concrete cell out of quickcrete and distilled water. I've made 4 different types using different style of plate. The first style is copper and aluminum wire, the other types are very different and a little out there.

You see the other plates don't use any other metal than aluminum wire. Both plates in the cell are aluminum and what makes them different is the plate size and or shape. One cell has one aluminum wire barely touching the concrete and the other is fully in the cell. The third cell has both aluminum wire in at the same length. The last cell has one wire all the way in and the other wire is a coil shape.

I've just made the cells and they're still very new and wet, but the all aluminum plates cells are producing voltage. The voltage is small, any where from 50mV to 200mV. I really want to see if it will still produce voltage even when the water is gone. Using only aluminum plates have eliminated the galvanic reaction.

[chuck H]

Resistor

@ Ben
Vtech is correct. Use a variable resistor. This also alows you to adjust current draw as well as series in more LEDs. I've done this with a few of mine. The 1st few John and I made used a fixed resistor to balance the circuit to the osillator.

@ all:
a couple of things as you make semicondutor Copper. RINSE your Copper in cold water and rub it with your fingers well. You don't want the Borax in the cell. Also an electric stove element works best. If you have to use Propane, Natural gas, etc... you will need to cook it a few times rinsing in cold water in between Borax baths. These fuels have there own Oxygen and burn the Oxygen on the metal away and makes it hard to make the Cupris Copper... Happy cooking!

[chuck H]

Copper sheets/foil

@ everyone

Place to purchase Copper sheets

Discounted Copper Sheets- Various Sizes and Thicknesses

[chuck H]

Cells/earthlights

@ Lidmotor
Very nice Just water it with distilled Alum water (a few drops). Hope to see a video soon... Wait till you make 1 with Magnesium then you will see your voltage go up. The Zinc model will only make .9-1.0 V The magnesium will make 1.5 -1.9v The Magnesium model will make over 200Ma on first use then "settle" to its "happy place" on Ma output. Depending on heat/humitity you will need to water once a day or so. Here in North Idaho where it still realy cold and wet. I water mine every 2-4 days with 3-4 drops. Most are in constant use on motors or osillator circuits.