Bedini Earth Light

[Lidmotor]

Magnesium Soil Anode by NCL---ready made "Earth Battery"???

@All
I found this product that is made for corrosion protection on things like tanks and pipes burried in the ground. It is called a "soil anode" and there are a number of companies who make them. Norton Corrosion Limited (NCL) sells a small 1 lb. anode for $14. What caught my attention was that the magnesium anode is in a cloth bag filled with 75% hydrated gypsum,20% bentonite, and 5% sodium sulphate. Those chemicals are in there to increase the output of the anode. The bagged anode and "backfill" has a 10 ft. wire already attached to it and you would simply bury the bag in the ground next to the cathode (copper, graphite, or whatever). The output is 1.50 to 1.75 volts. The specs rate this device at 500-580Amp/Hrs. per lb.

Here is the link to the product:

Norton Corrosion: Prepackaged Magnesium Soil Anodes - 1 lb with 10' or #12 AWG RHW-2 solid wire

The company is based near Seattle Washington and the shipping cost (shipping weight is 10 lbs.) is $8 to Sounthern California.

I didn't order one yet but this seems like a very simply way to make an "Earth Battery". If we opened up the bag and mixed the chemicals with cement then it might make an interesting crystal type cell using copper or graphite as the cathode. Maybe just put the bag in a plastic bucket of beach sand with a piece of copper pipe and see what happens. With 500 Amp/Hrs. you can run an LED oscillator a long long time.

@Chuck H.
My semiconductor copper cell has a problem with a black deposit forming on the marine zinc and stopping the galvanic action. I have tried several different electrolytes and insulators but the result is always the same. Some element in the marine zinc alloy breaks down and forms that insulating layer. I may try magnesium and see what happens.

[ibpointless2]

This might sound a little odd but does anyone else cell when hooked to a amp meter start to show that its gaining in amps? Some of my cells that use the same metal plates will start to gain amps but hook it to another cell that uses the same metal design and it will show that the amps are going down. I expect the amps to go down, at least this happens when i check the amps on a capacitor or battery. Is it possible for the cell to start to output more amps over time?

I thought meters have a resistor and the meter measures the voltage across that resistor so when you have it hooked to the meter in amps settings the resistor is a load and should drain the cell like you would except, right? Is it normal to see the amps go up on some cells?

[sucahyo]

I thought meters have a resistor and the meter measures the voltage across that resistor so when you have it hooked to the meter in amps settings the resistor is a load and should drain the cell like you would except, right? Is it normal to see the amps go up on some cells?

I get that few times, more so after I reverse charging (draining) the cell.

[chuck H]

Zinc/Copper

@ Lidmotor

The testing I,m doing with Zinc/Copper is 99.9 pure Zinc discs about 2"x1/2"
The Copper is #8awg direct burial pump wire shaved and cooked as described in previous posts. Pancake wrap on copper coil slightly larger then Zinc. Distilled Alum water (paper towel/Alum paste to seporate annode/cathode. I have different variations of these cells. All use 99.9 Zinc. All show signs at this point of tarshish as you describe. I have taken these apart to check. I will post more on this as testing goes further... video of 1 of these cells running 8 pole 3 coil monopole with reed switch and LED. Draws About 5 Ma. (not 50-70 Ma as I stated in video...oops)... The former semi conductor Copper looks to be very shiny and the Zinc is now the semi conductor mabye? I,m waiting to see if cell will reverse polarity at some point...

YouTube - Zinc- Alum- Copper 8 pole monopole.wmv

[Lidmotor]

The dreaded "Black Tarnish"

@ Lidmotor

The testing I,m doing with Zinc/Copper is 99.9 pure Zinc discs about 2"x1/2"
The Copper is #8awg direct burial pump wire shaved and cooked as described in previous posts. Pancake wrap on copper coil slightly larger then Zinc. Distilled Alum water (paper towel/Alum paste to seporate annode/cathode. I have different variations of these cells. All use 99.9 Zinc. All show signs at this point of tarshish as you describe. I have taken these apart to check. I will post more on this as testing goes further... video of 1 of these cells running 8 pole 3 coil monopole with reed switch and LED. Draws About 5 Ma. (not 50-70 Ma as I stated in video...oops)... The former semi conductor Copper looks to be very shiny and the Zinc is now the semi conductor mabye? I,m waiting to see if cell will reverse polarity at some point...

YouTube - Zinc- Alum- Copper 8 pole monopole.wmv

Well I hope that you or John B. can figure out why the "Black Tarnish" is forming on the zinc and how to stop it. This cell works great until that happens. I can also charge the cell up after that film forms and it act like a high Farad capacitor. Try throwing 3 volts on yours and you will see what I mean. It is strange. The marine zinc that I am using does not form this black insulating layer on it when it is in sea water on a boat. The zinc is slowly eaten away and has more of a grey or white coating on it.
If you put Limeaway cleaning fluid on the blackened zinc then it clean it up and the cell is usable again.
This is one of the stongest cells for its size that I have made and I really hope that we can solve this problem.

I have been working on electronic pulse motor circuits that can use this semiconductor copper cell and I found one posted by sMartCreation 2010 on Youtube that worked quite well. This should work on your monopole setup Chuck. I show the circuit here working on a solar cell but it also worked great on the Cu/Zn cell.

YouTube - sMartCreations self start solar pulse motor



Lidmotor

[DIFFERENT]

Zinc eaten by Alum

I might be mistaken but I think alum eats zinc. I beleive machinists use alum water to eat broken taps that they can't get out. Leave them for a couple days and it eats itself free.

Check the link

The Home Machinist! • View topic - Broken tap removal in brass - experience.

[chuck H]

Zinc and Alum

@ Different

I have Zinc Carbon Graphite cells that use Distilled Alum water for the Elelectrolyte. Some of these Volta type cells have been under load on a monopole motor or osillator circuit for up tp 3 weeks at a time. The Zinc shows 0 degration over time. The Reaction I believe is the plating process of the semi conductor copper and the Zinc due to current flow. This type of cell seems to take the Copper oxide off the Copper Anode and plate the Cathode. this is a short lived cell though it does provide good current draw for awhile.

[Matthew Jones]

@ Different

I have Zinc Carbon Graphite cells that use Distilled Alum water for the Elelectrolyte. Some of these Volta type cells have been under load on a monopole motor or osillator circuit for up tp 3 weeks at a time. The Zinc shows 0 degration over time. The Reaction I believe is the plating process of the semi conductor copper and the Zinc due to current flow. This type of cell seems to take the Copper oxide off the Copper Anode and plate the Cathode. this is a short lived cell though it does provide good current draw for awhile.

I wonder if you could make an agar bridge or something to stop the plating process by separating the fluid while allowing the conduction. The Alum may very well still work as a electrolyte even suspended in an agar medium.

Thats how you do a salt bridge is with agar. This a good paper on them. http://www.warneronline.com/pdf/whit...ar_bridges.pdf
And wikipedia's quik and easy Salt bridge - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.

I built one before for a galvanic cell. Might help out, use the alum instead of salt who knows.

Matt

[downunder]

I wonder if you could make an agar bridge or something to stop the plating process by separating the fluid while allowing the conduction. The Alum may very well still work as a electrolyte even suspended in an agar medium.

Thats how you do a salt bridge is with agar. This a good paper on them. http://www.warneronline.com/pdf/whit...ar_bridges.pdf
And wikipedia's quik and easy Salt bridge - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.

I built one before for a galvanic cell. Might help out, use the alum instead of salt who knows.

Matt

Thanks for the links, Matt. I found the salt bridge information interesting, and the Daniell_cell seemed like it may be quite relevant to the cell Lidmotor is having troubles with.

[Aaron]

Bedini & Chuck copper oxide battery

I don't keep up on this thread closely so you all have probably
seen this in John's and Chuck's videos:
YouTube - Bedini Copper, Alum and Magnesium Battery

That's the whole process to make one of these copper bowl, alum,
and magnesium batteries.

[Lidmotor]

semiconductor copper and Mg cell

@ Chuch H. and John B.
I made a semiconductor (cooked) copper and magnesium cell today and it is working very well. I'll just have to see if that black tarnish forms latter or not. It has been running a load for 12 hours now and still looks strong. I used Alum and distilled water.

@Aaron
Thanks for posting that video. This is a great project that we are working on.


Lidmotor

[Inquorate]

Out of time to double post: update.
Bedini's non-galvanic earth battery and open field joule thief circuit - Page 3 - Heretical Builders

[b_rads]

[QUOTE=Lidmotor;137034@Aaron
Thanks for posting that video. This is a great project that we are working on.
Lidmotor[/QUOTE]
Hello everybody,
My first post here: please let me introduce myself. My name is Brad Slife and I live in Birmingham, Alabama. My chosen profession is in the Computer Science field. A coworker introduced me to this energy research stuff a couple of years ago and about a year now I have been addicted to building battery cells. I have been following this thread for some time now, you guys blow me away. I am impressed with the speed and improvements in the developments of these cells. I have replicated several that have been shown here. One of my favorites is the voltaic pile battery shown at the very beginning. Mine has been running about 2 months now and still performing very well. I just completed treating some copper pipe this week. Thanks for the videos everyone, helps tremendously. Last night, excited to see how the treated copper would perform, I tried some very elementary tests and am happy with first readings. I read in another thread were a user suggested setting poles on the anode and cathode for catching EM fields. I am gullible and will try almost anything once. Taking a treated ¾” copper pipe 4” long, then inserted a ½” x 4” galvanized conduit wrapped in coffee filter, I checked the initial voltage by submersing the pieces in plain tap water. Then I connected the cell to a lawn battery that was drawing 10.3volts and 180ma connected to the cell and submersed in the tap water. You can guess what happened. Immediately gasses started pouring off the cell in what I think was a very large quantity. I opened the doors and turned on all the fans I had. Held a lighter to the cell and it was like Rice Krispies (Snap, Crackle, Pop). This also worked with copper/magnesium and copper/aluminum. What I am trying to say here is that even though these cells appear to be harmless, there can be adverse reactions if we are not careful. Happy experimenting everybody and be safe.

[Inquorate]

This is not an electrolytic battery; it can't be.

This vid on the theory of electrolytic cells and doped semiconductors ought to start a discussion

YouTube - Investigating the theory behind Bedini's rectifier cell

galvanic how?

aaron's video

YouTube - Bedini Copper, Alum and Magnesium Battery

[Inquorate]

Got a very thought provoking response from seamonkey at hereticalbuilders; What do you think of seamonkey's response to my video here? Bedini's non-galvanic earth battery and open field joule thief circuit - Page 3 - Heretical Builders
can the cell really be powered by the degradation of the cuprous oxide layer and the splitting of h20?