Bedini Earth Light

[ibpointless2]

Got a very thought provoking response from seamonkey at hereticalbuilders; What do you think of seamonkey's response to my video here? Bedini's non-galvanic earth battery and open field joule thief circuit - Page 3 - Heretical Builders
can the cell really be powered by the degradation of the cuprous oxide layer and the splitting of h20?

So what seamonkey is saying is that because there is a oxide layer on the copper and the plates are acting like a electrolysis fashion the hydrogen that is created from it is combined with the oxide layer (oxygen) to make water, and thus this is why Bedini new cells work? Once the oxide layer is gone it becomes a galvanic cell again? The oxide layer reminds me of lead acid batteries, one plate is oxide lead and the other is just lead. Since its like a lead acid battery do you think it could be recharged, splitting the hydrogen up again so that the oxygen will go back to copper plate?

[Inquorate]

So what seamonkey is saying is that because there is a oxide layer on the copper and the plates are acting like a electrolysis fashion the hydrogen that is created from it is combined with the oxide layer (oxygen) to make water, and thus this is why Bedini new cells work? Once the oxide layer is gone it becomes a galvanic cell again? The oxide layer reminds me of lead acid batteries, one plate is oxide lead and the other is just lead. Since its like a lead acid battery do you think it could be recharged, splitting the hydrogen up again so that the oxygen will go back to copper plate?

that's what he's guessing but that presupposes that the semiconductor copper doesn't act as a diode. But it does. So there's a barrier to internal electron flow in the cell so electrolysis can't be the power source any more than the idea that it's galvanic or electrolytic.. I'd love to see what others think. Question everything. Get informed. 'cause i'm sure i'm right; this cell can't be galvanic with the semiconductor cathode element. There's no internal electron flow, in theory.

[chuck H]

Magnesium/Copper/Zinc/Aluminum

@ All

This may be the new wave in battery technology guys...
See this article.

New Rechargeable Magnesium Battery System

@ All. These cells that John and I have been making seem to have an incredible life span... We have only begun to see how much. There is a lot of expirmenting to be done yet though. Next will be increasing the "AMPS" that can be pulled from these devices.

[b_rads]

Can someone explain these results?

@ All

This may be the new wave in battery technology guys...
See this article.

New Rechargeable Magnesium Battery System

@ All. These cells that John and I have been making seem to have an incredible life span... We have only begun to see how much. There is a lot of expirmenting to be done yet though. Next will be increasing the "AMPS" that can be pulled from these devices.

You guys have made tremendous progress already - I applaud you.
I have some test results that I would like to share with the group. I feel like some of you may already have a good idea of what is happening inside these cells and these results might confirm or reject those thoughts. First, I have not ever had very good results from copper and aluminum. These cells are quite different. Even though these cells will probably be short-lived like many of you have experienced, that is not the issue at this point. When we finally come to a consensus of what make these cells work, then we can select the right materials for optimum performance.
Cell #1 - Base Cell
¾” X 3” copper pipe - heated and dipped in borax - cathode
1/16” diameter aluminum tube - anode
Silica Sand (play sand) - filler
Cell #2
¾” X 3” copper pipe - heated and dipped in borax - cathode
1/16” diameter aluminum tube - anode
Filler - 1/3 Silica Sand (play sand)
1/3 Silica Sand - Powdered
1/3 Patching Cement
½ tsp Alum
Heated in water filled Crock Pot on high for 3 hours
Cell # 3
¾” X 3” copper pipe - heated and dipped in borax - cathode
1/16” diameter aluminum tube - anode
Filler - 1/3 Silica Sand (play sand)
1/3 Silica Sand - Powdered
1/3 Patching Cement
½ tsp Alum
4 LED’s - white, blue, red, green - neg soldered to copper, pos in filler (not touching copper or aluminum)
Heated in water filled Crock Pot on high for 3 hours

Cell #1 - 0.54Volts - small current
Cell #2 - 1.23 to 1.25Volts - will light LED on air core joule thief.
Cell #3 - 1.35 to 1.43Volts - will light LED on air core joule thief.

Cell 2 and 3 will lose current fairly rapidly but both bounce back quite nicely. But why does cell #3 with the LED’s consistently show 0.1 to 0.15 volts more than cell #2. Cathode, Anode, and filler all came from the same batch and both cells were heated together.

[blackchisel97]

@ All

This may be the new wave in battery technology guys...
See this article.

New Rechargeable Magnesium Battery System

@ All. These cells that John and I have been making seem to have an incredible life span... We have only begun to see how much. There is a lot of expirmenting to be done yet though. Next will be increasing the "AMPS" that can be pulled from these devices.

Wow That's interesting - "they have perfected a way of replacing the copper using a cost efficient chemical reaction instead"
Should we start looking for - AZ31 alloy?AZ31 Magnesium AZ31B Bar, Rod, Plate, Extrusion, Sheet

Thanks Chuck
Vtech

[everyidea]

@ All

This may be the new wave in battery technology guys...
See this article.

New Rechargeable Magnesium Battery System

Here's more info on that battery:
Solid-State Rechargeable Magnesium Batteries - Chusid - 2003 - Advanced Materials - Wiley Online Library

"The development of all solid-state rechargeable magnesium battery systems is reported, with components that are environmentally friendly and relatively simple in their structure and preparation. As anodes, magnesium alloys containing Zn and Al are used, and the cathode is the chevrel phase, Mo6S8, which can insert two magnesium atoms per unit (Mg2Mo6S8, 122 mA h g–1). The solid electrolyte is a gel comprising polyvinylidene difluoride, Mg(AlCl2EtBt)2 complex salt, and tetraglyme as a plasticizer. These batteries are found to function well in a temperature range of 0–80 °C with a voltage range of 1.3–0.8V."

[kiwifreeenergy]

Hi everyone I am new to this thread, & have read the whole thing.
If anyone here has researched the work of Wilhelm Reich they will probably be familiar with the use of bion packs to restore an energy field which has been disturbed by d.O.R (deadly orgone radiation )concentrated life negative energy which can be accumulated in orgone accumulators or biological organisms exposed to nuclear radiation & harmful electromag radiations.
bion packs are made using sand repeatedly frozen & boiled.
the sand used then becomes a source of life positive energy that seems to come from within the sand itself.
so.... as we are making these anyway,why not try the bion pack process,repeatedly freezing & heating sand before making the batteries.
if we use one untreated batch as a control we may notice a difference.

I am currently in Sydney Nsw away from my lab in NZ but would love to meet up with anyone doing active research.

keep up the great work everyone!

Paul.

[chuck H]

Magnesium/Semiconductor Copper/Alum

@ All, I have not disassembled 1 of these cells yet as none have failed. I have about 6 of them that I have been using for awhile. Some of these cells I have used ossilator circuits with LEDs and multiple LEDs with pots to adjust current draw. Others used monopole motors with LEDs. I try not to exceed alot of current on these. They seem always provide the same current level after a feeding (Distilled Alum water) The crystals keep growing. I have cells I used various electolytes in and did end with a galvanic action that was not good for the Copper and or Magnesium. These cells in there current form due not provide alot of current, but always seems to be there when needed.

@ all

JohnB and I have been vary busy at work with RnD and production. We will try to post updates as we can...

Keep working on these cells... Keep reporting results... Keep expirmenting...

[b_rads]

Glycerin

@Chuck H and everyone -
Recently I tried Glycerin and made a paste with the Alum. The current is higher than using distilled water. Short term results look promising. For a quick burst in power, mist with 3% hydrogen peroxide. I am not using the heat treated copper yet with this electrolyte, but I am using carbon between the copper foil and magnesium.
Brad

[Lajdva]

Semiconductor is the key.

Hi Guys,
I am reading this forum almost since it started but I never contributed. I don’t know if it was mention but I believe that the semiconductor which is made from copper dumped in borax is the key thing in usage of these batteries. I tried to measure several materials for electricity (rocks, plants etc.) and what I found that the position of the object makes different. I have seen I thing “ibpointless2” you-tube video about how neomagnets and coins generate small power. The voltage was different if you change position of the magnets, going from + to -. I have seen similar effect almost with everything I tried to measure.
If the voltage collected by crystals is different all the time, usage of semiconductor is very clever way how to direct and use this energy.

I thing all of you guys done GREAT job here! I am glad for this forum.
Thanks

[NickZ]

Guys:
I have been working with beach sand cement batteries, made using aluminum cans. I use only washed beach sand and cement, but to the last batch, I also added some baking power. The baking power does help to raise the voltage and current, but also the addition of a spiral shaped copper tube coil that is wound up through itself, replaced the single copper tube that was used previously. Both these changes were mentioned here by someone, so I tried them and they seam to work well, especially to increase the current, which can start as high as 40 mA. But there is a catch... After about two weeks both current and voltage which started at 1.8 volts, and about 5 mA (with a load), have gone down to 1.4, and maybe 2- or 3 mAs, or less. The effect can be noticed most when an led or two are placed as a load, and left connected overnight. In the morning the led is still on, but dim, just like an indicator led.
When several batteries are connected in series, the weakest one will limit the total output of the rest in the chain.
If these batteries are charged by a small solar panel or other external source they will hold the charge, to a degree. I have not really had a chance to test that aspect, yet, although worth looking into, as they may possibly be used along with a small solar panel, as the panels battery bank.
But, I think that these types of batteries are best teamed up with the right kind of low power draw oscillator circuit, such as the one called -Hartley Oscillator. My question is: which type of Hartley oscillator is the best one to use with these batteries? To make the most out of what little current they can produce? As there seams to many versions...
NickZ

[Lidmotor]

Gummy Bear Battery

@All
I made a low power cell today using copper, magnesium, and a "Gummy Bear" candy. I started thinking about these soild state batteries that we have been studying and decided to look into "gel" cells. One thing led to another and I ended up with "gelatine" as perhaps a way to make a homemade "gel" cell. Gummy Bears are made using that ingredient so I tried one and it worked. I don't know if this has any value in the other type cells that we are building but it was an interesting little experiment. I found out that ions can travel quite nicely through a gelatine based substance.

YouTube - Gummy Bear Battery.ASF

Lidmotor

[Lajdva]

That's funny

Lidmotor that's funny I was thiking about this idea yesterday. Alum plus gelatin with can battery. I'm about to try to build that this weekend.

Well done lidmotor!!!

[mikrovolt]

The tuning of a cell like this is not known and may not be heard in the human
auditory range without converting the signal. Crystal sounds can be interpreted in meaningful ways.
We can look at other natural sounds that have been interpreted.

An example is a bat uses sonar but we use a divider circuit to be able to listen. It may be close to what the bat may hear.

In AM radio the sound is combined onto a carrier frequency and the receiver lifts the sound off again. We can say that there is an information component to the signal.

The natural sound of magnets when the flux is reacting with the magnet surface the effect called barkhaussen can be heard. Not the most pleasing sound (bark bark)however hidden sounds can allow tuning with hall sensors. Some of the nicest motors you would ever hear.

Some sounds are related to changes in heat or photon energy within cell or membrane.
water breaking down , I never (heard) of before. Some early cat wisker detectors worked better when moist.
most of the data from home made oxide metal crystal radios was only done by ear.

The crystal cells would possibly need converting natural sound to human octave.
A simple radio by itself may be difficult to tune into what we need and may require some adaptation.
As more amps appear (as these cells become more powerful) our interpretation of what is happening
may need a new method, a way to distinguish which changes improve the output from within rather than
the output alone.

[ibpointless2]

Just Like Lidmotor, great idea by the way, I wanted to test other things besides cement and other electrolytes that have been covered here in this thread. I wanted something that was like cement but dries quicker and is less messy. So I came up with a Glue battery, it dries faster and makes a nice solid state battery. I've used Elmer's glue but found that all purpose caulk works best. Here's a video of the glue battery YouTube - Glue Battery



The glue is not the best in the world to use as electrolyte but it is something unique. The great thing about using elmer's glue was that it dries clear so if the plates do corrode it will show corrosion. I do think the corrosion process is slowed down due to the glue blonds sticking to the plates. I do have one plate that has been shorted out for 9 days and still see no corrosion and it still produces some power.


One interesting thing I've notice about my glue batteries when I use the same metals is that it starts to negatively charge. What I mean when I say this is like for example you take a low micro farad capacitor and hook it up to your meter you'll notice that it will drain the capacitor. The capacitor will drain until it gets to 0 volts and then stop, that is what you expect to happen, if the bucket has no more water in it then no water can come out. When I do the same with the same metal glue battery it too will go to 0 volts but then it will go to -1, -2, -3 volts and so on. Its like its negatively charging. Its something interesting to note, but it could be just my imagination.