Bedini Earth Light

[NickZ]

Has anybody been able to get a voltage of over 2 volts per cell with these batteries???

I am making some more cement beach-sand batteries, as they have worked for me. I did not have much luck with Gelatin batteries, although I did not include Alum in the mix. They turned into liquid mush in a hot climate, while the cement batteries with an inverted copper spiral 30 degree coil and baking powder inside seam to work best for me, so far.

My take on these types of batteries, or better yet called Cells, is that they are absorbing Aether from the atmosphere. Just like a capacitor does, and separating the + and - into a usable although very small amount of voltage. With hardly no current (under load).
They seam to be limited to producing less than 2 volts. Or Not? That is my question...
Hopefully these cells can be connected in series or parallel and made to produce a USEFUL output, with some current too. The smaller in size, the better. By comparison, a calculator solar cell 1/2" by 2" in size, can still output more power than two or three of these earth batteries combined, but not at night.
NickZ

[blackchisel97]

Has anybody been able to get a voltage of over 2 volts per cell with these batteries???

I am making some more cement beach-sand batteries, as they have worked for me. I did not have much luck with Gelatin batteries, although I did not include Alum in the mix. They turned into liquid mush in a hot climate, while the cement batteries with an inverted copper spiral 30 degree coil and baking powder inside seam to work best for me, so far.

My take on these types of batteries, or better yet called Cells, is that they are absorbing Aether from the atmosphere. Just like a capacitor does, and separating the + and - into a usable although very small amount of voltage. With hardly no current (under load).
They seam to be limited to producing less than 2 volts. Or Not? That is my question...
Hopefully these cells can be connected in series or parallel and made to produce a USEFUL output, with some current too. The smaller in size, the better. By comparison, a calculator solar cell 1/2" by 2" in size, can still output more power than two or three of these earth batteries combined, but not at night.
NickZ

Hi NickZ
Nice to see you're having more luck with them I never got over 2V from single cell. Highest was 1.6V but each cell in car battery has slightly over 2V too. What would be nice to see is the ability to sustain over infinite period of time and some more current. I did check my cement cells and they show over 1.3 -1.5V. The strongest ones are still capable of powering LED while in series. Bertha can power LED through an oscillator for more than 5hrs. This was a cell with copper oxide/copper spiral and large Al tubing (flex air hose).
I did prepare couple copper pieces as John showed us (semiconducting valve) but still lacking other components. I wish I have a kiln or something allowing to bake components (rocks).


Vtech

[NickZ]

@ Blackchisel: Good to hear from you.
Did JB ever tell us how many volts his current cells are able to produce, as well as mAs.
I have a couple of ideas for some new cells, but first I want to make sure I have enough of the cement cells to see if connecting them in either series or parallel is going to work, as planned.
When the cement cells were newly made 3 of them in series produced almost 6 volts. All the cells have to be the same, or the weakest one will limit the current to that level. Mine have since dropped to about 1.2 volts each, but under load they'll drop to about 0.7 volts, or less. So, their best WORKING level under load (one to three leds) is 0.7 volts and about 3 mA. per cell.
I've been making several types of Jtc or inverse Jt type circuits for these batteries, but I think that the best bet is to have enough cells to obtain a decent and STEADY voltage output, and to connect them directly to the leds bulbs.
So, I'm making more cells to see how it goes. I'll upload more pictures as soon as I can figure out how to attach them, as I don't see the normal attachment icon button, that was there before.

[minoly]

@ all - need help
I just purchased a brand new dry battery - no acid - supposedly never been charged. I was going to go purchase some acid, when I thought to myself, this could be a good opportunity to test something else.

If it were you, would you just plop the acid in and charge up or what would you put in there instead?

I have a nice SSG build that puts the life back into many dead batteries so I was hoping to give it a go from scratch so to speak.
what should we put in it?

thanks,
Patrick

[DIFFERENT]

Over 2 Volts

I took a carbon water filter and magnesium water heater anode and put them together with alum and paper towel in between. Right after you wet it with distilled water it cranks out 2.02 Volts and over 50 milli amp. Once you load it with a load, the amps drop pretty quick. If I let it dry for 48 hours voltage rests at about 1.56Volts without a load and amperage is pretty much none.

Carbon water filter is 9.5" long. (split in half)
magnesium .675" dia

When we figure out how to increase the amps I will be really happy

[b_rads]

New test gel cells

@all
Last night I constructed three cells I think will be worth observing.

Cell #1 – DAP 100% silicone sealant/glycerin/distilled water/Alum/sand/copper foil/1/2” dia. Magnesium in a small prescription bottle. This cell was heated in oven at 250 for 45 minutes.
After 12 hours to cure at room temp it measures 1.42V and 7.40ma.

Cell #2 – Knox Gelatin/glycerin/distilled water/Alum/sand/copper foil/1/2” dia. Magnesium in a small prescription bottle. This cell was not heated.
After 12 hours to cure in refrigerator it measures 1.30V and 3.64ma.

Cell #3 – Titebond original wood glue/glycerin/distilled water/Alum/sand/copper foil/1/2” dia. Magnesium in a small prescription bottle. This cell was heated in oven at 250 for 45 minutes.
After 12 hours to cure at room temp it measures 1.62V and 28.0ma.

Initial observations:
Cell #1 – when checking voltage and current - The voltage and current are fairly stable regardless which is being checked.
Cell #2 – the voltage and current both drop when checking amperage.
Cell #3 – the voltage drops and the current increases when checking amperage. The cell will start at 14.2ma and 1.62V and move to 28.0ma and 1.05V. When first removed from oven this cell registered 1.64V and 52.8ma. I will try reheating the cell to see if current increases again.

Hypothesis:
The gel must be conductive. The gel must shrink or expand to stress the sand into a piezoelectric state. The cell must be heated for best results. The gel should suspend the sand and contain many air pockets for best result. I will conduct further tests on these 3 cells and construct additional cells to test this hypothesis.

@lidmotor
Did you test your gelatin cells at room temperature? I tested mine cold from the refrigerator.

Brad

[NickZ]

Brad and All:
Thanks for your report on your new cells.
I made some gelatin beach sand cells, using aluminum cans, but I found that the sand all goes to the bottom. So, the mix needs to be thick enough to avoid that. A mix that solidifies with expandable gummy like ability would be good, as the cement cells in time will shrink away from the aluminum cans, which can reduce their efficiency.
The gelatin cells turn to liquid mush in my climate of 86 degrees.
A consistency like that of semi-dry silicone glue would work well for a cell, and hold the mixture in suspension until it firms up a bit. Bees wax would also be good to try.

To obtain more accurate readings of the capacity of these batteries, they need to be put under a load, and allowed to run for an hour or two, even if it's just using one led bulb as the load. Then when readings are taken, they will reflect a better idea of what these cells can do.
NickZ

[b_rads]

This is such a wonderful project and everyone here has been so helpful, even if you don’t realize it. Your opinions and experiences (good or bad) are a tremendous resource for a newbie such as myself. My learning curve is very steep to catch up with the knowledge that most of you already know.

Brad and All:
Thanks for your report on your new cells.
I made some gelatin beach sand cells, using aluminum cans, but I found that the sand all goes to the bottom. So, the mix needs to be thick enough to avoid that. A mix that solidifies with expandable gummy like ability would be good, as the cement cells in time will shrink away from the aluminum cans, which can reduce their efficiency.
The gelatin cells turn to liquid mush in my climate of 86 degrees.
A consistency like that of semi-dry silicone glue would work well for a cell, and hold the mixture in suspension until it firms up a bit. Bees wax would also be good to try.

To obtain more accurate readings of the capacity of these batteries, they need to be put under a load, and allowed to run for an hour or two, even if it's just using one led bulb as the load. Then when readings are taken, they will reflect a better idea of what these cells can do.
NickZ

My objective in using the three different gels and trying to keep the other variables similar was to see if I could pick up any noticeable difference. The wood glue gel certainly showed an improvement over the other two cells. While I think the sand probably settled to the bottom like yours did with the gelatin, I think enough glue surrounds the quartz sand to cause pressure. The glycerin is in the mix to absorb water from the ambient air as well as keeping the glue from setting up rock hard. After 12 hours the glue is sort of a “silly putty” consistency. The Alum will eventually grow crystals and create additional pressure on the quartz sand I hope.
Side note: I have a cell that I made with Alum/Carbon/Copper/Magnesium that powered a solar accent light for 4 months that quit working this week. The Alum crystals created so much pressure on the container that it split and without pressure the cell stopped working. I did have to add water occasionally – but that was all that was required to keep it working.

Thank you for your suggestion to put the cells under a load. My experience with water batteries and other true galvanic batteries is that they usually settle down after about 12 to 24 hours. At this point I am still chasing rabbits, trying to figure out where this energy is coming from. The amount of output at this time is less concerning than identifying what makes them work – I think as we identify the “how”, optimizing these cells should be a much simpler task.

Again, thanks to everyone here for their patience with me and I hope that my reports here can be a contributing factor to some (hopefully) very successful results.

Brad

[ibpointless2]

This is such a wonderful project and everyone here has been so helpful, even if you don’t realize it. Your opinions and experiences (good or bad) are a tremendous resource for a newbie such as myself. My learning curve is very steep to catch up with the knowledge that most of you already know.



My objective in using the three different gels and trying to keep the other variables similar was to see if I could pick up any noticeable difference. The wood glue gel certainly showed an improvement over the other two cells. While I think the sand probably settled to the bottom like yours did with the gelatin, I think enough glue surrounds the quartz sand to cause pressure. The glycerin is in the mix to absorb water from the ambient air as well as keeping the glue from setting up rock hard. After 12 hours the glue is sort of a “silly putty” consistency. The Alum will eventually grow crystals and create additional pressure on the quartz sand I hope.
Side note: I have a cell that I made with Alum/Carbon/Copper/Magnesium that powered a solar accent light for 4 months that quit working this week. The Alum crystals created so much pressure on the container that it split and without pressure the cell stopped working. I did have to add water occasionally – but that was all that was required to keep it working.

Thank you for your suggestion to put the cells under a load. My experience with water batteries and other true galvanic batteries is that they usually settle down after about 12 to 24 hours. At this point I am still chasing rabbits, trying to figure out where this energy is coming from. The amount of output at this time is less concerning than identifying what makes them work – I think as we identify the “how”, optimizing these cells should be a much simpler task.

Again, thanks to everyone here for their patience with me and I hope that my reports here can be a contributing factor to some (hopefully) very successful results.

Brad

Hi, I've been studying these cell for some time now and I don't think their Galvanic either. When they're dried the water is gone and it looses its power but some of the power that is left is not Galvanic, it is actually called Petrovoltaic. Thomas Townsend Brown was the one to really kick start this study of dielectric material will have a self-potential.

I've been doing some test on a cement cell that was created a month ago, the electrodes are both aluminum and this cell being hooked to a meter and has output the same voltage all day. Whats amazing is this cell was shorted out for a week before the test started and is at a higher voltage then when the short was applied. It seems these cells don't die easy when given a load or short, they just bounce back.

If you want to see something really crazy take one of the glue cells and hook it to a low micro-farad capacitor for a day. I did this with a cell that would output 100mV at the most and by the next day the capacitor had over 500mV in it. What ever energy this is the capacitor can convert to normal electricity.

[ibpointless2]

What happen to Marcus Reid? Is he still making crystal batteries?

[ibpointless2]

What happen to people working on the earth light/crystal cell/ concrete batteries? Is anyone still working on them? Is John Bedini ok or is he really busy, he hasn't posted anything since page 16.

I'm still playing with my cells, glue and concrete ones and I'm seeing some great stuff.

I have one concrete cell that is quite unique. This cell will only drain at night, it will hold steady during the day but when night roles around it likes to drain. This cell is in a box so no light can get to it and its sealed off from the humidity too. Temperature has been constant.

[NickZ]

@ Ib and All:
I am still working on these cells. The problem is that they are not really strong enough to do any real work, except to power an led weakly. Even if several cells are connected together they all drop both in voltage as well as in current. Connecting them to a regular Joule Thief circuit works, but it still drains the cells, as the Jtc is still taking too much current from them to run for long. The cells are working just like a charged capacitor, but one that just doesn't last very long.

I have not been able to get a Hartley type oscillator or inverse Joule thief to work on these cell yet. I've tried using a KN2222A trans, 1k resistor and small 102 cap on the negative rail. I've tried several small coils, But can't make a Hartley circuit work. Without a trim pot, to hold the voltage down, the led starts nice and bright but within 10 minutes or so will start to get dim.
Does anybody have any idea what regular resistor to use instead of a pot, to keep the voltage from dropping, as I can't find a pot here, yet?
Ib I have not tried your glue cells yet, but I plan on it. I think that a gummy type of material like Silicone glue and beach sand may work better than regular cement, as it won't shrink away from the can.
My cement cell were putting out almost 2 volts, and 50 mAs when they were made, but have since dropped down to about 1.2 volts (without a load), and less than 1/2 volt if run overnight lighting an led. They bounce back just like a capacitor, but it's practically a useless voltage, without connecting them to a Hartley, or inverse Jtc. Although the beach sand cells will take a charge, the charge does not last very long, maybe for an hour or so.
Has anyone tried to daisy chain the cells to get a STEADY 12 volts???

[ibpointless2]

I have a theory on why these cells don't output much power. What I understand from studying Townsend Brown and others is that these cells are antenna's that pick up a full wave of energy. This energy contains a small portion of the energy that our meters and circuits can use, and this is where we have gone wrong. Our meters and circuits are running directly from the cells and only able to pick up a small faction of the full wave that the cell gets from it surroundings. What we need to do is convert the full wave of energy into usable electricity that we can run our circuits and motors on.

To convert the energy is very simple, just hook the cell to a capacitor or battery and they will convert it for you. I know this sounds crazy and all but its working for me. I took one glue cell that only outputs 100mV at the max and connected it to a low micro-farad capacitor and let them sit over night. (of course the capacitor was shorted out for a week before connecting it) By the next day the 100mV cell had this capacitor charged above 500mV. So My meter was only picking up a 1/5 of the usable energy. I even have one cell connected to a dead 9 volt battery and the battery has climbed .03 and its still going.

The energy we're seeing now is not very useful unless you convert it. So its not the best to run a circuit off the cell directly but have the cells connected to capacitors and the circuit run off the capacitor. This technique was used by Townsend Brown, he also used a diode so that the energy could be brought back to the cell so that the cell could stay alive longer.

just a theory.

[NickZ]

I think that the cells are working as a capacitor already, and I have connected them to regular capacitors, which does seam to charge them as well, but, the charge is small and running an led off of that charged cap doesn't last long...
I'll continue to play with charging caps off of these cells, and see how long the charge last.
I just made some more cement beach-sand cells but using the taller aluminum cans, as well as more gel cells. They are still drying now. One interesting point is that the beach sand does have a lot of iron in it, as is shown in the picture of the egg magnet attached with the iron fillings all pointing out. The other picture is of the spiral copper wire that I placed inside the aluminum cans.
I'm using the spiral shaped copper coil beach-sand, cement, and baking powder for the new cement cells. The point is to see if they can be made to produce a higher usable voltage and current, and also to see if these can be connected in parallel or series to produce enough electricity to make this worth the effort. I still think that connecting these cells to a solar panel may be the best way to go. The use of extra caps to hold the charge or take better advantage of the charge, may also help.

[ibpointless2]

I think that the cells are working as a capacitor already, and I have connected them to regular capacitors, which does seam to charge them as well, but, the charge is small and running an led off of that charged cap doesn't last long...
I'll continue to play with charging caps off of these cells, and see how long the charge last.
I just made some more cement beach-sand cells but using the taller aluminum cans, as well as more gel cells. They are still drying now. One interesting point is that the beach sand does have a lot of iron in it, as is shown in the picture of the egg magnet attached with the iron fillings all pointing out. The other picture is of the spiral copper wire that I placed inside the aluminum cans.
I'm using the spiral shaped copper coil beach-sand, cement, and baking powder for the new cement cells. The point is to see if they can be made to produce a higher usable voltage and current, and also to see if these can be connected in parallel or series to produce enough electricity to make this worth the effort. I still think that connecting these cells to a solar panel may be the best way to go. The use of extra caps to hold the charge or take better advantage of the charge, may also help.

Try not to use the aluminum from and can such as a soda can, its not pure aluminum. The food industry doesn't use pure aluminum because it has been shown to lead to Alzheimer.