Bedini Earth Light

[hiops]

@ hiops and all
2 cups Alum and 1 cup distilled water

Here is a metric conversion chart in pdf format:

http://www.metric-conversions.org/co...sion-chart.pdf

This is the conversion of gallons to liters, and I know that without a chart, what it has to do with cups . As I understand 1 cup is about 200 grams, then how I can dissolve 400 grams of alum in 200 grams of water, too much of alum. I still did not get it. Would you explain one more time please.

[Matthew Jones]

This is the conversion of gallons to liters, and I know that without a chart, what it has to do with cups . As I understand 1 cup is about 200 grams, then how I can dissolve 400 grams of alum in 200 grams of water, too much of alum. I still did not get it. Would you explain one more time please.

1 cup of water is 240 ml. Its a volume conversion not weight conversion.

Matt

[hiops]

1 cup of water is 240 ml. Its a volume conversion not weight conversion.

Matt

I cup of water 240 ml, I got it, than what is 1 cup of alum.

[Matthew Jones]

Same thing. Fill your measuring cup up to 240 ml with alum or water and you have 1 cup of either.

Some one said the metric system was easy

Matt

[ibpointless2]

Anyone else seeing voltage increase at noon on their own cells? One of my cells gets its best voltage reading around noon. I thought it was temperature at first because my cells are affected by temperature but at noon it was cooler than it is now in the afternoon.

[mikrovolt]

Battery polarization( get rid of the bubbles )
seeing the problem is half the answer.


What if there were better ways of cell polarization ?
The electrical dictionary states:

1. polarization
(a) The depriving of a voltaic cell of its proper electro-motive force. Polarization may be due to various causes. The solution may become exhausted, as in a Smee battery, when the acid is saturated with zinc and thus a species of polarization follows. But the best definition of polarization restricts it to the development of counter-electro-motive force in the battery by the accumulation of hydrogen on the negative (carbon or copper) plate. To overcome this difficulty many methods are employed. Oxidizing solutions or solids are used, such as solution of chromic acid or powdered manganese dioxide, as in the Bunsen and Leclanché batteries respectively; a roughened surface of platinum black is used, as in the Smee battery; air is blown through the solution to carry off the hydrogen, or the plates themselves are moved about in the solution.

(b) Imparting magnetization to a bar of iron or steel, thus making a permanent magnet, is the polarization of the steel of which it is made. Polarization may be permanent, as in steel, or only temporary, as in soft iron.

(c) The strain upon a dielectric when it separates two oppositely charged surfaces. The secondary discharge of a Leyden jar, and its alteration in volume testify to the strain put upon it by charging.

(d) The alteration of arrangement of the molecules of an electrolyte by a decomposing current. All the molecules are supposed to be arranged with like ends pointing in the same direction, positive ends facing the positively-charged plate and negative ends the negatively-charged one.

(e) The production of counter-electro-motive force in a secondary battery, or in any combination capable of acting as the seat of such counter-electro-motive force. (See Battery, Secondary--Battery, Gas.) The same can be found often in organized cellular tissue such as that of muscles, nerves, or of plants. If a current is passed through this in one direction, it often establishes a polarization or potential difference that is susceptible of giving a return current in the opposite direction when the charging battery is replaced by a conductor.

Working backwards from solid state ferro electric generator patents
would give the ferro electric materials and the doping agents you need.

[NickZ]

I've noticed that the cement batteries tend to lose their output ability as time goes by. They started at almost 2 volts per cell and after two or three weeks they have dropped to 1.2 volts, but under load it is more like 1/2 volt.
The current that started at 65 mA per cell has also dropped to less than 50 mA. So, it not looking too good, as that reading is on my best cells.
I'm making some more new cells now to see if the output can be increased, or at least kept closer to where they started at when they are first made.
I'm using the tall aluminum cans, and almost a pound of copper wire in a spiral and inverted through the coil, beach sand, and baking powder, that's all. I'll let you know how it goes when I finish them tomorrow.
Can someone let me know what to do when there is no Attachments Icon???
I can't upload any pictures now...

[dR-Green]

I don't know if this is the right place to ask and I'm having trouble finding out myself because google searches seem to go round in circles and lead nowhere, but I was wondering, can the circuit in the first post be used in an "earth battery", using rods in the ground like Aaron's video here instead of an artificially constructed cell like John Bedini has made?

YouTube - Earth Battery (rods)

I'd like to convert some of those useless solar garden lights to run off an earth battery

[ibpointless2]

I don't know if this is the right place to ask and I'm having trouble finding out myself because google searches seem to go round in circles and lead nowhere, but I was wondering, can the circuit in the first post be used in an "earth battery", using rods in the ground like Aaron's video here instead of an artificially constructed cell like John Bedini has made?

YouTube - Earth Battery (rods)

I'd like to convert some of those useless solar garden lights to run off an earth battery

The Earth battery that you showed was a galvanic battery, this is not what John Bedini was going after. Galvanic battery will eat away at one of the plates due to the dissimilar plates touching water. John and many others are going after a crystal cell, which is like a galvanic cell but doesn't get consumed and outputs a continue power. But that video does give you a great place to start off at and learn. Using his setup in the video it should run a LED for a long time but will die when the aluminum curtain rod gets consumed.

[mikrovolt]

A ferroectric generator patents

ELECTRIC GENERATOR - Patent application

also note [0025] hydrogen

ELECTRIC GENERATOR - Google Patents

It is not coincidence that negative resistance zones along with solid state junctions have been utilized in OU devices.

[ibpointless2]

I have a question thats been bugging me. Are these cells galvanic even though they use a solid dielectric instead of water? Like the Cement, glue, and gel cells could they be galvanic? The electrolyte they're in is a solid so how would it break down especially in the cement and glue cell, they are held together so no break down can occur.

Once the cells dry I don't see any further deterioration of the plates. I even short them out for long periods of time (weeks) and they still seem to find there way back to original voltage, sometimes even go higher. The Amps are the same way too.

I have one glue cell that doesn't act like a normal galvanic cell. this cell tends to fluxuates. The fluctuation are not directly proportional to the temperature or humidity. The cell could look like its draining in the morning but when I come home the voltage sometimes goes up. This cell has been hooked up to a load for a week now and has not "drain". The cell fluxuates between 300mV to 600mV. The voltage is never the same everyday but its never been 0 volts either. Just when you think its going to drain like chemical battery or capacitor it for some odd reason starts charging again, likes in a predetermine pattern. You short this cell out and it returns back to its original voltage and amperage. I also noticed that right before the full moon the cell started draining, but after the moon was full it started to charge up again.

I really don't think a galvanic cell would fluxuates at all, it seems to me that a galvanic cell would be a linear downward curve to zero volts. What do you guys think?

[dR-Green]

Ah, that's a different circuit. I guess a question I should have asked is what circuit is Aaron using in the video I posted?

I put some rods in the ground and tested it, and then I built the circuit from the first post later that night anyway and it worked, but I only had 5uH inductors so I bought what I need yesterday, haven't tried it yet. With the 5uH inductors the LED was pretty much the same brightness as without the circuit, just using a small capacitor across the rods. Then again I hadn't removed the resistor from the original solar light circuit and the capacitor I connected to test earlier was still connected, so I have more to try soon.

Thanks

[NickZ]

@ Ib and All:
I don't know if these cement cells using beach sand are galvanic or not, but they are working to produce free led lights.
The pictures below are of the cells that were made just yesterday, using as much copper wound into a spiral and inverted through itself as I could fit inside of the cans. Some baking powder was also added
The last picture is of a cell made using a capacitor can. All these cells have between 55 and 70 mA., and about 1.2 volts, or so. I have gotten 7 volts by combining several cans, so far.
I've made a video which shows the leds lighting up without the flash affecting the picture. But I haven't uploaded it yet. In any case the leds are fairly bright, and are connected direct to the three aluminum cells in the picture. The single capacitor can does have a small Jt connected on it.
My goal is to have them produce at least 12 volts... and some amps too.
I'm getting there...

[Matthew Jones]

Nick Z
Use thicker aluminum as well. Something like 3"x3" square pipe or round pipe 1/8 inch thick works really well.
The bigger cells that I have built are still doing real well after 2 + months.

Matt

[NickZ]

Matt:
Yes, thicker aluminum is on my list. Possibly the square aluminum window siding that is 1"by 2" may work well, as it is about 1/8" thick. Or the aluminum tubing that is at least an inch thick. Mass seams to be important here, as more mass, means more output... My newest cells can maintain a steady 50 mA each, under a load, right now I've got 16 leds connected to three large cans, plus the capacitor can also.
Using thicker copper, and the inverted winding also helps.
The capacitor can is at least four times the thickness of the beer cans, but does not really seam to work any better. It is about 60% of the size as the other cans, and it can almost keep up with the bigger ones as far as current output. Same voltage 1.2 volts, and 55 mA, compared to 70 mA in the tall aluminum cans.