Bedini Earth Light

[ibpointless2]

I just made the first batch of potassium chloride cells. One cell has only concrete, distilled water, and potassium chloride in it and copper aluminum plates. I made another cell with the same ingredients but added alum to it. The cell without the alum is producing over one volt and climbing while the alum cell is around 800mV.

I'll see in the morning if the potassium chloride cell is worth perusing.

[ibpointless2]

I would love to hear from John Bedini on his cells and see they're still working.

The Potassium Chloride cell is at 900mV this morning. The plates I'm using are 20 gauge wire with 2 inches of the wire touching the cement. One wire is copper and the other is aluminum.

[Mark]

Nice!! How many ma?

[NickZ]

These mag-carbon cells are the strongest that I've seen yet.
Hopefully the salt will not break them down too quickly. They output 1.5 AMPS!!! (Not mA), each cell. That is 20 time stronger than my best cement cells. Thanks to Lasersaber for sharing the info on this great cell.
YouTube - ‪lasersaber's Channel‬‏

[ibpointless2]

The potassium Chloride cells are during better than I thought they would. All the other cells except the Cement and Salt cells have gone down in voltage over time. The potassium chloride cell did go down at first when I woke up this morning but this afternoon they have gone up a little. The cell that was at 900mV this morning has gone up to 940mV this afternoon and the other cell shows the same amount increase too. I've seen this before in the salt cells, but salt is very corrosive to the cells and the Potassium chloride is a salt substitute and hopefully won't damage the cell as bad. Plus potassium is radioactive and i'm hoping the radiation could help too.

As for Amps I'm using very small 17 and 20 gauge wire which have very little surface area. Small surface area means small amps, but is this a bad thing? When you have amps you have power and we think that we need power to run our electronics but we don't. The simple fact is that the amps are what kills any battery. You want voltage not amps. If you're not pulling any amps you not making a galvanic reaction thus you have a free pool of energy. We don't need amps to get work done we just need energy, this is why I say we should charge capacitors and not connect the cell directly to a load. It would be best to stay away from amps as amps destroy the dipole and kill batteries.

[NickZ]

What electronics can be run without any amps, other than leds, and CFL tubes? I don't know of any. Fluffly voltage with no amps means no power for anything else, so far. We know that just voltage won't run your car, house, or anything else. So, when the carbon - mag cells outputs 1.5 amps and can be connected in parallel, (unlike the other cells), that is very interesting to me.

[ibpointless2]

What electronics can be run without any amps, other than leds, and CFL tubes? I don't know of any. Fluffly voltage with no amps means no power for anything else, so far. We know that just voltage won't run your car, house, or anything else. So, when the carbon - mag cells outputs 1.5 amps and can be connected in parallel, (unlike the other cells), that is very interesting to me.

Its about not destroying the dipole. If you are able to take a 12 volt battery and only use the voltage and not the amps that battery would stay charged. Its when you take the amps that you're taking power from the battery thus destroying the dipole which means you'll need to recharge or get new battery because the galvanic action has destroyed the cell.

Voltage is energy and energy can do work, but it must be converted for use in our electrical systems that requires power. This is simple to do, it can all be done in a capacitor. The cells charge the capacitor and then run you load off the capacitor.

There is nothing wrong with making cells that produce 1.5 amps, that is a lot of amps! But the fact is that if you take amps from the cells you're taking power from the cell which destroys the dipole and the cell will die sooner or later. I'm after cells that last for a really long time and that pour out energy during that long time. I'm after Free energy and not a primary battery. Please don't take offence to this.

[NickZ]

These cells are converting Aether to usable form of energy. Similar to a how a solar cell converts light to electricity. They don't run out of power, because they are not the source of it. They lose their ability to obtain, convert, and transfer both voltage and current for the reasons I already mentioned a few posts back.
If you can show even one small example of how to use JUST VOLTAGE to operate ANYTHING I might consider it. But you'll find that there is always current present there too. Magnetic and electric power go hand in hand, as do voltage and current. Two sides of the same coin. You normally can't have one without the other. Current levels may be very small, but always present.
When you charge a capacitor or a battery off of a power cell of any kind, they are also taking in current, which can be confirmed and read by any voltmeter. I do this daily. Even a Jtc or an led will not run or light on just voltage, and is the reason why they don't normally run on most but not all of the 1.2 volt cement cells, by themselves, as they need at least two or more cells to provide them with enough current (mA) to work.
Even if you can connect a Jtc to higher volts with hardly or no current, which I have done. it won't work,at all. I have proven this for myself. You can try it and see.
I understand what you are trying to say, but,... The killing of the dipole as mentioned by Beaden, and others is something else again.
Solar cells, as well as these power cells etz, work by a conversion process, as does every form of electricity production, or manufacture. It all comes from and goes back to the Aether.

[Mark]

I made a couple of test cells and have a cell that put out a little over 1 volt and pegs a 25ma meter hard. Its a cement soda can cell with a 3 inch copper pipe inside. Mix of Rochelle and epson salt, Alum and Potasium CHL.

I'm going to make a few each day until I have enough to run my Muller style motor with. My motor will run off 4.5 volts now so I will attempt to run it off the cells when I get up near 12 volts.

[Lidmotor]

Muller Dynamo running on a homemade battery

I made a couple of test cells and have a cell that put out a little over 1 volt and pegs a 25ma meter hard. Its a cement soda can cell with a 3 inch copper pipe inside. Mix of Rochelle and epson salt, Alum and Potasium CHL.

I'm going to make a few each day until I have enough to run my Muller style motor with. My motor will run off 4.5 volts now so I will attempt to run it off the cells when I get up near 12 volts.

Mark---
I was unable to get my Muller Dynamo to run off the "old" cement batteries but it did run on a big magnesium and carbon cell that I made months ago. It is the Lasersaber design that Nick showed a few posts back. John Bedini and Chuck H. also worked on this design and tested it. You can find the info burried way back in this thread. It uses distilled water and Alum as the electrolyte and when you dry out the cell the chemical reaction stops until it gets wet again. The problem that I encountered was that the thin Mg ribbon easily corodes thru and breaks if the cell is kept wet. What I do is use the cell for an experiment and then throughly dry it out and store it dry. Some of the Mg and carbon cells I spray with WD-40 for storage and then wash them off with detergent and water when I want to reactivate them.
A "fresh" cement battery (cell) will work but months down the road when it really cures--- you are not going to have enough amperage.

Here is a video of my Muller running on the Mg/carbon cell:


YouTube - ‪Muller Dynamo running on homemade battery.ASF‬‏

Cheers,

Lidmotor

[NickZ]

Mark, and All:
Good to hear that you been giving the cells a try.
The amount of current produced is directly proportional to the amount of copper used in the cells. Not only is mass important in the copper, but the inverted funnel shape coil helps alot, over a thick straight pipe. My best cement cells started with 70 mA, and holding at that level for a minute or two. Using salt will affect the metals. So, I even wash the salt out of the beach sand. One of the reasons that I add baking powder is to help keep the cell staying neutral and balanced in Ph. The more acid or base the cell turns to, the more corrosive is the affect on the can and copper. Weather they are galvanic or not, is possibly not known yet.
Using thicker materials and making your cell longer (taller aluminum can, or pipe), all adds up to more power. As the thinker aluminum actually does store and hold some energy.
Seams like the voltage is limited to less than 2 volts, but the current is not.
In my best strongest cells the current holds up to the load, much better. In weaker cells the current won't even hold up to the multi-meter readings without dropping fast. What this really shows is the rate at which they are able to conduct current through them, and not how much current they are actually holding, as with batteries. Even though the cells do hold and store some of it.

I think that Current has a different function and does not work the same way when using Magnetic, Cold, Non-shocking energy to light a bulb, or whatever, but that may be something else.

Theses cells are non magnetic in nature. But, they function similar to a magnet, in that they are always moving some current through them. They lose power when the current can't flow through them, and not because they got drained. They are not really a good holding or storage source like a battery, although they can store some juice, they are more like a permanent output higher farad capacitor.
Sorry for my rants... I love this topic.

[NickZ]

@ Lidmotor and All:
Thanks for the come back on the mag-carbon cell. I was wondering about how long they would last. Seams like every kind of cell or battery has a time limit. But, I really liked that "big light" that those cells like you and LaserS have made, can give.
I do have some of those water filter carbon elements to work with. Do you know if galvanized iron wire, thick aluminum wire, copper tubing or anything else might work in place of the flat mag ribbon. As it is hard to get that here. What if they were placed in an oil bath or honey bath, wd-40 soaking, or something to keep the corrosion at at bay? Or if no salt was used? Even if they output less, but still with some usable current
I'm under about 86% temps, and 85% humidity here In C.R. just from the air, and as I'm next to the beach the air already has plenty of salt in it.
I can visualize "Big candy canes cells" in my back yard Remembering Jeanna...

[Lidmotor]

Energy "Scavenging"

@ Lidmotor and All:
Thanks for the come back on the mag-carbon cell. I was wondering about how long they would last. Seams like every kind of cell or battery has a time limit. But, I really liked that "big light" that those cells like you and LaserS have made, can give.
I do have some of those water filter carbon elements to work with. Do you know if galvanized iron wire, thick aluminum wire, copper tubing or anything else might work in place of the flat mag ribbon. As it is hard to get that here. What if they were placed in an oil bath or honey bath, wd-40 soaking, or something to keep the corrosion at at bay? Or if no salt was used? Even if they output less, but still with some usable current
I'm under about 86% temps, and 85% humidity here In C.R. just from the air, and as I'm next to the beach the air already has plenty of salt in it.
I can visualize "Big candy canes cells" in my back yard Remembering Jeanna...

@Nick
You can wrap those carbon elements with aluminum or galvanized steel wire. The output will be less but it may last longer. I made a cell with a piece of the charcoal element placed inside a soda can that worked good. Just use water or water and your favorite additive. The charcoal element doesn't deteriorate. The metal does.
I have been experimenting with oil as the electrolyte to control the chemical reaction but so far it just stops the cell. Lasersaber has one he shows in his latest video that is running an LED circuit nicely.

@All
I found this website that is very interesting and a Youtube viewer showed me this article about "scavenging" for energy that is all around us. It made me wonder if maybe these dried out cement cells are doing just that.
Power from the air: Device captures ambient electromagnetic energy to drive small electronic devices

Lidmotor

[mikrovolt]

In reply to an email the person wants to be anonymous.
In regard to: Whats all this polarizing stuff?

Let me back up to the history battery development and point to a simple experiment in a battery that led to rechargeable (reversible) batteries.
Please remember that we now believe that restoring the original condition is (dipole) more than just driving the reaction backward as modern science teaches.
To make a battery 1910 they would charge for days, backward and forward making spongy lead. Today the active material used is a thin crystal structure
some are a thin layer to prevent corrosion and others are PN diode. The platinum electrodes secondary effect we are examining is useful in maintaining dipole.
John Bedini may need to correct me on this as he understands this better than myself. He donated a circuit uses a forced monople oscillator shown video 6
his cells are still gathering energy.

The 1910 explanation of this effect begins with an experiment involved two platinum electrodes in dilute H2SO4
setup as electrolysis. This extra charge made possible the reversible battery. Just how was that done.

The reference is to 1910 encyclopedia britannica p126:
Encyclopaedia britannica: a ... - Google Books

I hope this answers your question what is polarization. Join the forum for additional
questions, Bedini earth light members will try to answer best we can
about this aspect of getting energy from homemade batteries.

[ibpointless2]

I've been think very critically about these cells and have listed the problems that we must solve first as to eliminate the galvanic reaction and what it brings.

-Water: Water has got to the biggest thing with these cells as water causes a galvanic reaction.

Concrete; Concrete by itself is corrosive due to the limestone in it and the fact the concrete doesn't dry clear can't show us the inner workings of the plates to see if they're corroding or not. Plus Concrete can take months to dry, we need something faster.

Dissimilar metals: This one is a tricky one as the dissimilar metals are key to getting a potential. Using the same metals does give a voltage so that shows that the energy we're seeing is not 100% galvanic.

Using containers such as soda cans: Using containers like soda cans helps to trap the water in as it can not evaporate. If you think about it water thats been spread out over a surface will evaporate faster than water in a soda can.


The solutions that I have come up with so far...
-I've replaced Concrete with Elmer's glue, its cheap, already has the right amount of water in it, dries clear, and most importantly it dries much faster!

-As for a container I don't use one. What I find best is to spread the glue over a flat surface but not just any flat surface but notebook paper. The notebook paper will actual absorb the water thats in the glue out and away from the cell. Also spreading the glue out on the paper allows it to dry faster.

-Using just glue will not work, when it dries it makes a very good dielectric. The best things to add to the glue are salts. Table salt has work really well but it is very corrosive so its not best to use table salt. Adding Potassium Chloride and Epsom Salt to the glue and mixing it in works best. The crystals of the salts make the cell more conductive. Its the crystals that we're after as they produce they produce the energy we need (ions).

-I also use small plates, wires actually. I could get more amps if I use bigger plates but its the voltage that you want.

-Also I don't try to hook a load directly to the cell, but instead hook a capacitor to it instead. When you do this you can see a very interesting effect. If you take a cell that only produces 500mV and hook it to a capacitor with less voltage in it than that of the cell the capacitor will charge up above the original 500mV to something like 600mV.


With these small improvements I edge closer to a non galvanic reaction.