Bedini Earth Light

[plengo]

I thought these links are related to the issue so I am sharing.

YouTube - Edison Battery Construction Nickel Iron

http://www.lizardfire.com/hydroxy/Th...ge_Battery.pdf

Fausto.

[John_Bedini]

Earth Light

Less K,
Yes I have worked with the Alum before and I did convert two or three Lead Acid batteries. However if you use junk batteries that is what you get junk.

I have never tried to revive them when they are shorted. I take new batteries and dump the acid. I then wash them out and add the Alum treatment. I still have all the batteries at the shop and use them every day for the chargers not one of those batteries has failed. If you do not want the acid around that is the way to go.

Lidmotor that is ok I have just wound another coil without the iron rod it work real good. but if you do that add 10 extra feet of wire.

John B

[chuck H]

Zinc/Carbon Bedini Earth light with 2nd transistor and solar cell

Here is a video of the John Bedini Earthlight with solar cell. In this one We are using a Dupont #900 water filter (#800 is a carbon paper wrap) with Zinc strips and distilled Alum water. The LED shuts off when there is the correct amount of light. The Zinc is from a sheet sheared into strips and soldered together. It makes only 1volt but as you can see it has plenty of current to run this circuit. The Magnesuim ciruit would leave only about .6volts under this load but the Zinc under load has .7 volts. I have not checked the current draw yet.

YouTube - Bedini earthlight solar with zinc cell.wmv

[FRC]

Zinc/carbon

Here is a video of the John Bedini Earthlight with solar cell. In this one We are using a Dupont #800 water filter with Zinc strips and distilled Alum water. The LED shuts off when there is the correct amount of light. The Zinc is from a sheet sheared into strips and soldered together. It makes only 1volt but as you can see it has plenty of current to run this circuit. The Magnesuim ciruit would leave only about .6volts under this load but the Zinc under load has .7 volts. I have not checked the current draw yet.

YouTube - Bedini earthlight solar with zinc cell.wmv

Does anyone know what was used for electrolyte in the big old zinc/carbon
1 1/2v cylindrical dry cells with the nuts and screws on top ?

FRC

[John_Bedini]

Frc

FRC,
That was Carbon, manganese dioxide, zinc metal.
That is one good battery, the 1950's
John B

[fusionchip]

carbon graphite magnesium and zinc

i have a reseller contract with some companies that manufacture the carbon graphite magnesium and zinc . in sizes one inch thick X 2 feet or 1 foot and 1/2 inch diameter X 2 feet or 1 foot in pure carbon or pure graphite ,magnesium or zinc , I used to sell them on sunpowerwindpower.com but have not sold or kept the site up this year and gave it away to another administrator . i also have access to special orders up to foot in diameter up to 8 feet in length on carbon or graphite)these are Hard fired and not that brittle . the graphite is very hard .they can be made with a wire in the middle of them for electrical connect .
I use a combination of one inch thick two feet long graphite and magnesium in dry dirt and get peaks of 1.9 volts and up to 800 milli amps . with carbon and zinc rods of same size i get 1.4 tp 1.6 volts 700ma to over 1 amp in moist dirt out here in the middle of the country where i live . If i remember right a 1/2 inch x one foot was around 10 dollars for carbon or graphite . Ill have to check metal price for magnesium and zinc but they used to be around 40 dollars for one inch X two feet magnesium . the zinc was a bit higher.i have to order in a small bulk to get these prices so if there is an interest i can pursue this .I have three pairs of them in the ground out here in Nowhere land and run some nice bright lights and a radio 24/7 for my free energy earth batteries .also a 1/2 inch graphite and magnesium rod one foot in length wrapped in some cotton and taped together with duck tape is running a big Jt .

thank you John Bedini for your circuits and free energy experiments . I have bought your books and enjoy reading them like an old sears christmas toy catalog from the 70's You are my Main man and inspiration .


albert
http://www.sunpowerwindpower.com/doc...chhalfinch.gif

[minoly]

KAl(SO4)2

Thanks for sharing the ckt!
What I love about these is, not only that they are very efficient, but that they are clean and simple enough for me to understand :-)

Alum - KAl(SO4)2 aluminum potassium sulfate
So we’re still in the salty electrolyte area of the periodic table. I wonder if the aluminum is what helps. we have a rod that is supposedly an aluminum magnesium mixture. We have been reluctant to spray it or wet it with anything because we only have the one. I think we’ll cut a piece off and give it a try this weekend.

Our copper pipe magnesium ribbon lasted a week and a day in the Ziploc bag, then another 5 days if we gave it a good squeeze in the AMn now it needs a squeeze every couple of hours, the ribbon is noticeably tarnished and sulfated.
YouTube - salt vs magnesium battery cell
This was lightly sprayed with the dri-z-air distilled water combo. The Ziploc bag seems to be a nice accelerator to get to the breaking point of the elements. We’ll put one in w/ the alum
We used a diode, after shooting the vid, we removed it and the motor speed increased 3 fold. Is there any other reason to use the diode on these cells?

Patrick

[minoly]

i have a reseller contract with some companies that manufacture the carbon graphite magnesium and zinc . in sizes one inch thick X 2 feet or 1 foot and 1/2 inch diameter X 2 feet or 1 foot in pure carbon or pure graphite ,magnesium or zinc , I used to sell them on sunpowerwindpower.com but have not sold or kept the site up this year . i also have access to special orders up to foot in diameter up to 8 feet in length on carbon or graphite)these are Hard fired and not that brittle . the graphite is very hard .they can be made with a wire in the middle of them for electrical connect .
I use a combination of one inch thick two feet long graphite and magnesium in dry dirt and get peaks of 1.9 volts and up to 800 milli amps . with carbon and zinc rods of same size i get 1.4 tp 1.6 volts 700ma to over 1 amp in moist dirt out here in the middle of the country where i live . If i remember right a 1/2 inch x one foot was around 10 dollars for carbon or graphite . Ill have to check metal price for magnesium and zinc but they used to be around 40 dollars for one inch X two feet magnesium . the zinc was a bit higher.i have to order in a small bulk to get these prices so if there is an interest i can pursue this .I have three pairs of them in the ground out here in Nowhere land and run some nice bright lights and a radio 24/7 for my free energy earth batteries .also a 1/2 inch graphite and magnesium rod one foot in length wrapped in some cotton and taped together with duck tape is running a big Jt .

thank you John Bedini for your circuits and free energy experiments . I have bought your books and enjoy reading them like an old sears christmas toy catalog from the 70's You are my Main man and inspiration .


albert

how long have you had those in the ground? have you seen their condition lately?
I'd be interested in what is in your dirt, perhaps you can start selling it when we buried our magnesium in the ground it went bad very quickly. We live in the city, near pine trees, so our dirt is acidic and who knows what else is in there(ground fill). I was digging next to the house to put some shrubberies 4 years ago and found whole bikes, garden rakes wire fence parts buried in the dirt and ALL tied to the house ground!

patrick

[mikrovolt]

What I found in researching is that Pure Magnesium in (di) distilled water is that it should work for quite some time. Tests done show that once the surface forms a thin layer of magnesium hydroxide initially then it does not produce more however,

After reading through the question in my mind is :

What is a good practical method of removing CO2 from distilled water that will not effect the functioning of the cell ?

see the subheading "Water"

Magnesium . com - Data Bank

[fusionchip]

how long have you had those in the ground? have you seen their condition lately?
I'd be interested in what is in your dirt, perhaps you can start selling it when we buried our magnesium in the ground it went bad very quickly. We live in the city, near pine trees, so our dirt is acidic and who knows what else is in there(ground fill). I was digging next to the house to put some shrubberies 4 years ago and found whole bikes, garden rakes wire fence parts buried in the dirt and ALL tied to the house ground!

patrick

Hi Patrick . It's mainly grey clay with some top soil and i get run offs from what ever the farmers spray with Crop dusters and tractors . Lots of nitrogen and chicken poo also Yes i pull up the rods in 6 months. the carbon and graphite is pristine and the zinc and magnesium are slightly whitish when i washed the clay off . the magnesium is slightly pitted but the bottoms are still sharp so far . compared to my other house/lot about a mile away mostly sand the rods over there are still running lights outside thru a Jt and they have been in the ground for a few years . i pulled one up a few weeks (magnesium)ago and am using it for the air battery . It was slightly pitted and the bottoms were ragged a bit on the metals ,the carbon was pristine . i just took some windex and a piece of steel wool and it was shiny in no time . very little loss .

Albert

[Lidmotor]

The carbon water filter cartridge cell

Here is a video of the John Bedini Earthlight with solar cell. In this one We are using a Dupont #800 water filter with Zinc strips and distilled Alum water. The LED shuts off when there is the correct amount of light. The Zinc is from a sheet sheared into strips and soldered together. It makes only 1volt but as you can see it has plenty of current to run this circuit. The Magnesuim ciruit would leave only about .6volts under this load but the Zinc under load has .7 volts. I have not checked the current draw yet.

YouTube - Bedini earthlight solar with zinc cell.wmv

Chuck---- I'm glad that you got that to work. I worked with this idea all week and found that if you wrap plain old aluminum foil around the cartridge you get almost a volt with enough punch to run the circuit. I used just plain tap water with no additive. The foil seem to hold up amazingly well. You can't beat the cost and availability.
I decided to use an infrared phototransistor between the base and emitter of the 2N2222 to solve the on/off problem instead of using John's way. It is an easy idea but not my idea. I saw it done somewhere before and it works very well except that when it shuts down the circuit it still leaks about 100 to 200 micro amps. For the battery situation we have-- where all we care about is turning the light on and off ---it works just fine. The Radio Shack part# is 276-0145 and here is a link to the part:

Infrared Phototransistor - RadioShack.com

The thing looks like a white LED. The collector (short end) goes to the base of the 2N2222 and the emitter (long end) goes to the 2N2222 emitter. When light hits it the device keeps the transistor from functioning. Sensitivity is controlled by adjusting the base resistance.

@Mikrovolt
I enjoyed your link to the article on magnesium. That really helped.

Cheers,

Lidmotor

[cody]

What is a good practical method of removing CO2 from distilled water that will not effect the functioning of the cell ?

mikrovolt,

I had brought this up in the other thread. This is what i initially believed was running these cells, water and CO2 forming carbonic acid H2CO3 and thereby creating a galvanic reaction between the dissimilar metals. The temperature findings John B has brought to light make me question my initial theory that it was galvanic. But regardless of what it is, if you are using water, you will be dealing with CO2 and corroding metal from the carbonic acid. This is what i found when researching this: Water absorbs CO2 from the air through a process called diffusion. Basically the air will have a higher concentration of CO2 than pure distilled water, so the CO2 diffuses to the area of less concentration in the water. If your cell is open to the air, i dont see how you could avoid this from happening. So basically you would need to remove the CO2 and then seal the cell off from the air to keep it out. Removing CO2, or other gasses for that matter, is called degassing. There are a number of commercial degassing systems available. But the easiest and cheapest way i can think of is what we did in chem class, boil it. That should get a good amount of it out, maybe not as good as other methods though.

Oddly enough, as fresh water tends to be slightly acidic from CO2, sea water however is slightly basic. But then of course your dealing with the salt corroding your metals.

Maybe there are chemicals that would help, maybe Johns alum is doing this, i dont know. I would just degas the water and then just seal the water off from the air somehow while trying not to effect the function of the cell. Or of course find materials that dont corrode.



Cody

[mikrovolt]

RE: Cody and other's suggestions

Boil the distilled water and seal the whole cell from any atmosphere.
The alum works no doubt. I was thinking a jar or collapsible container that has a piece of pure shiny magnesium that takes the hit of any small reaction to preconditioning the water to insure the C/ Mg cell will remain free of any effects of CO2 during water replenishing or wicking.

[jonnydavro]

@Cody.Adding some oil to the distilled water after boiling may keep the air out.I am thinking back to science at school when we did an experiment with nails to see how they rust under various conditions and the testube with oil floating on the top didn't rust.Jonny

[Lidmotor]

Keeping the air out--keeping the water out????

@Cody.Adding some oil to the distilled water after boiling may keep the air out.I am thinking back to science at school when we did an experiment with nails to see how they rust under various conditions and the testube with oil floating on the top didn't rust.Jonny

@Jonny & All
You guys maybe onto something. Yesterday I made a new cell using a 5" piece of hollow 1/2" diameter carbon fiber arrow shaft. I used a piece of heavy duty paper towel as the isolator and wound mg ribbon tightly on it covering the whole 5" piece. The wraps of mg were right next to each other. I first got the cell wet with tap water and it worked as expected then decided to "stop" it by drying it off and spraying it with WD-40. To my amazement it didn't stop. It slowed way down to about 1.2 volts with not much power but it was alive and well running on a "mixture" of left over water and WD-40. I put it in a small plastic tube with a slight amount of water and have it running my little spinner pulse motor.
I think that we can slow the oxidation down to a point where a reaction is still taking place to produce electricity but the magnesiium will last much longer. It is my hope anyway.

Here is a link to the history of WD-40. My dad was working on the Atlas missile project for the Air Force at that time and they had a problem with the thin stainless steel skin of the missile corroding. WD-40 was developed to solve the problem--- and the rest is history. ""Water Displacement- 40th attempt"--- what would we do with out it.
WD-40 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Lidmotor