Bedini Earth Light

[NickZ]

Brad:
I used to work for an acoustic design group company, where we had to completely submerge a small 3 by 3 inch printed circuit board with 27 components mounted on it, into an E-poxy casing, which was poured in a mold. This was to seal and weather proof the components, as well as to make the device almost impossible to replicate. And it worked, only the wire connector was outside of the casing, everything else was sealed in one solid block of E-poxy glue. That is where my idea come from...

[minoly]

@All
I did some digging back in this thread and found the video that Aaron made showing John B. and Chuck making the burnt copper bowl and magnesium cells. This is a cell that I have not made yet and is on my to do list. It is "doable" by any kitchen table experimenter like me and obviously works---and lasts!! Here is the video posted many pages ago by Inquorate. It was before this thread went somewhat quiet.

‪Bedini Copper, Alum and Magnesium Battery‬‏ - YouTube

Lidmotor

Yes, this is exactly how we treated the copper, then just add distilled water alum and magnesium... going on 80+ hours now. never thought to use the SSG ckt in there. I did not think it had enough amps, but it does.

[minoly]

found the copper "bowls".
3 volts 1 pulse per magnet pass.
‪Copper end cap battery‬‏ - YouTube


Patrick

[NickZ]

Minoly:
What are you getting for mA, at short circuit. It seams that the Mg/copper cell has about the same voltage as the cement cell does. I'm wondering what kind of current they are giving? Can you please connect the two copper caps in parallel and let us know what you get as far as the current goes.
I'm about use a carbon water filter element to make a cell, using an aluminum wire. but after watching your other video showing how the mag ribbon is totally consumed it make me wonder, if I shouldn't try using bleach as an electrolyte in an oil coated cloth.

It would be nice to further hear about Lasersabers last test on the carbon rod-magnesium cell, to see if the oiled cloth treatment is still working to control the oxidation.

[minoly]

Minoly:
What are you getting for mA, at short circuit. It seams that the Mg/copper cell has about the same voltage as the cement cell does. I'm wondering what kind of current they are giving? Can you please connect the two copper caps in parallel and let us know what you get as far as the current goes.
I'm about use a carbon water filter element to make a cell, using an aluminum wire. but after watching your other video showing how the mag ribbon is totally consumed it make me wonder, if I shouldn't try using bleach as an electrolyte in an oil coated cloth.

It would be nice to further hear about Lasersabers last test on the carbon rod-magnesium cell, to see if the oiled cloth treatment is still working to control the oxidation.

on a dead short - that's with the meter directly on the cell, neg lead on bolt/magnesium-electrode poss lead directly on copper - I get 120mA -

using a 100ohm 2 watt resistor it starts at 10mA then drops and holds steady at 7.5mA

the voltage has dropped 24 hours into the experiment. it is now at 1.618 but is still running the winow motor using the SSG ckt.

I am suspecting the copper end caps might not be pure enough.
the old copper pipe I had in the first video is holding up better than these two... It was cut out of some of our original home plumbing and is from the 50's when they used real stuff. who knows what grade they sell at the hardware stores now...

John B., Chuck, - where can we get some bowls like you have? or, what is the % of copper in those bowls? perhaps we will pound out our own bowls using these old copper pipes.

Patrick

[NickZ]

Minoly:
Thanks for the information on the current and voltage levels of the mg/cu cap cell.
The cement cells i had made when first were made output 1.7v and 70 mA, and would hold the current steady at 70 mA for at least 10 seconds before starting to drop. I don't see all that much difference to what you are getting.
With a resistor as a load the current drops but sustains at 7.5mA? So, that is the amount of current that it can sustain with that load?

The big piece of copper pipe you used, has a lot more mass than one of the caps does, so maybe is the reason it shows more power.

Thanks again for your tests and information. They are much appreciated.

[b_rads]

Glue Cells Still A Mystery!

@all:
Just a few observations from the cells suspended in plastic casting resin. First, I made two more cells using glue/Epsom Salt/Salt substitute/copper/magnesium ribbon and they look great. I let the two cells dry for 24hours before sealing them in the plastic. One I shorted and the other I did not. Both cells are holding a good 1.35 Volts. I connected these two in series and connected a 1000uF 35V capacitor and it would take a charge very quickly (30 seconds or less) and flash an LED.

I replicated John Bedini’s mg/cu cell and placed it in the plastic casting resin. I made the bottom half of the resin and let it harden. I then placed the semiconductor copper, magnesium, and moist alum in the plastic. I noticed the mix bubbling, the magnesium had been brushed to a very shiny look and placing it in the Alum turned it immediately to a dull grey. I waited about 3 hours and it looked like the bubbling activity had ceased and the Alum had dried considerably. I poured the top to seal the cell and before it could harden, several channels had worked its way through the plastic. I waited for this layer to harden and poured a little more plastic onto the top. At least one channel in each cell formed again. Unless there is a reaction with the liquid plastic, this cell shows all the characteristics of an electrochemical redox cell.

While the mg/cu cells do appear to be electrochemical, the glue cells do not. At this point the mystery appears to be in the glue cells and not the mg/cu cells.
Brad S

[minoly]

Minoly:
Thanks for the information on the current and voltage levels of the mg/cu cap cell.
The cement cells i had made when first were made output 1.7v and 70 mA, and would hold the current steady at 70 mA for at least 10 seconds before starting to drop. I don't see all that much difference to what you are getting.
With a resistor as a load the current drops but sustains at 7.5mA? So, that is the amount of current that it can sustain with that load?

The big piece of copper pipe you used, has a lot more mass than one of the caps does, so maybe is the reason it shows more power.

Thanks again for your tests and information. They are much appreciated.

Sorry, missed the question on my first read....
yes only 7.5mA
although, they are still holding as of today. this is our best run so far, no slow down in the output from Friday. On Friday I pounded out the copper pipe into a "bowl" and put all 3 in series. this is a vid of me preparing the copper bowl:
‪preparing the copper for the battery‬‏ - YouTube

Patrick
PS how are the cement batteries holding up? sorry if you posted this somewhere else already... thanks

[John_Bedini]

John H crystal battery

Here is a video of a Hutchison cell that John Built. Under load it holds around .6 volts This circuit needs about 25Ma to run it. It is not making a lot of current but it does work and makes light.

‪Hutchison cell replication August 8th 2011 with John Bedini.wmv‬‏ - YouTube

[John_Bedini]

Crystal Cell

Hi All,
Got back to work and measured the John H cell using the method that was explained on you-tube following everybody else.
Running the power oscillator the voltage doped to .6 volts at 25ma that is not much but it did work, time will tell. so far I see the same output power that a solar cell develops, next is the impedance of the cell.

I have now changed the the mixture as this is a semiconductor cell so it is very important that the doping material is heated into the mixture correctly. From my doping of transistors years ago I already have the mix John H talked about. I have now changed the base metals to what would work the best according to the valance charts.

Using a pure oxygen free piece of copper in 1/2 pipe form I have made it look like tree roots at the bottom as I want to collect all the branch currents possible. One could look at this like semiconductor geometry, in that device the emitter and base is very important so geometry is going to have a big factor in this cell since we are using the metals and the valance of the metals as collectors. In the new cell I just did the standing voltage was 1.92 volts without the alignment of the crystals, adding the 12 volt power supply did nothing to help this and that was what I was looking for, no charge effect. more on this after the cooling.
John B

[minoly]

Hi All,
Got back to work and measured the John H cell using the method that was explained on you-tube following everybody else.
Running the power oscillator the voltage doped to .6 volts at 25ma that is not much but it did work, time will tell. so far I see the same output power that a solar cell develops, next is the impedance of the cell.

I have now changed the the mixture as this is a semiconductor cell so it is very important that the doping material is heated into the mixture correctly. From my doping of transistors years ago I already have the mix John H talked about. I have now changed the base metals to what would work the best according to the valance charts.

Using a pure oxygen free piece of copper in 1/2 pipe form I have made it look like tree roots at the bottom as I want to collect all the branch currents possible. One could look at this like semiconductor geometry, in that device the emitter and base is very important so geometry is going to have a big factor in this cell since we are using the metals and the valance of the metals as collectors. In the new cell I just did the standing voltage was 1.92 volts without the alignment of the crystals, adding the 12 volt power supply did nothing to help this and that was what I was looking for, no charge effect. more on this after the cooling.
John B

Nice!
did you do some sort of resin fiber at the bottom to hold the bottom on?
thanks,
Patrick

[ibpointless2]

@all:
Just a few observations from the cells suspended in plastic casting resin. First, I made two more cells using glue/Epsom Salt/Salt substitute/copper/magnesium ribbon and they look great. I let the two cells dry for 24hours before sealing them in the plastic. One I shorted and the other I did not. Both cells are holding a good 1.35 Volts. I connected these two in series and connected a 1000uF 35V capacitor and it would take a charge very quickly (30 seconds or less) and flash an LED.

I replicated John Bedini’s mg/cu cell and placed it in the plastic casting resin. I made the bottom half of the resin and let it harden. I then placed the semiconductor copper, magnesium, and moist alum in the plastic. I noticed the mix bubbling, the magnesium had been brushed to a very shiny look and placing it in the Alum turned it immediately to a dull grey. I waited about 3 hours and it looked like the bubbling activity had ceased and the Alum had dried considerably. I poured the top to seal the cell and before it could harden, several channels had worked its way through the plastic. I waited for this layer to harden and poured a little more plastic onto the top. At least one channel in each cell formed again. Unless there is a reaction with the liquid plastic, this cell shows all the characteristics of an electrochemical redox cell.

While the mg/cu cells do appear to be electrochemical, the glue cells do not. At this point the mystery appears to be in the glue cells and not the mg/cu cells.
Brad S

Its great to hear from you! Glad to see others having good success and seeing what I'm seeing in the Glue cells. You got me wanting to try the magnesium and copper with the glue cells, its seems to be the better metals to use. I've thought about using magnesium and graphite or carbon as that should give the best voltages. I'm also glad to see that you don't see the corrosion either.

I've been studying these cells very closely and found that the Epsom salts and salt substitute are what make these cell tick and not something in the glue. Water is needed at the start of the cells as to combine the salts together but after that water is not needed. Also the glue works to create a barrier too and that helps. I've made some cells that had paper soaked in salt substitute and Epsom salts wrapped in the copper and aluminum, allowing these cells to dry for 24 hours still show the voltage that a normal glue cell has proving water is not needed after the cell has been formed.

I would like to know how you go about making the plastic mold. I've spray painted some cell so to keep corrosion away but yet to see any corrosion other than the tarnish on the copper which is not corrosion but a protective layer created by the copper.


But the glue cells still remain a mystery but i get closer everyday.

[John_Bedini]

John H Crystal battery

Nice!
did you do some sort of resin fiber at the bottom to hold the bottom on?
thanks,
Patrick

Patrick,
No I just glued it to a piece of cardboard super glue.
John

[ibpointless2]

I just made some magnesium, copper, salt substitute, Epsom salt, Glue cells and after 12 hours of drying they're around 1.35 to 1.40 volts. Just one cell is able to power the LCD clock by itself, something the copper and aluminum cell could barely do. Just like always no corrosion has shown up but I'll continue my research into this cell with using magnesium instead of aluminum.

[b_rads]

I just made some magnesium, copper, salt substitute, Epsom salt, Glue cells and after 12 hours of drying they're around 1.35 to 1.40 volts. Just one cell is able to power the LCD clock by itself, something the copper and aluminum cell could barely do. Just like always no corrosion has shown up but I'll continue my research into this cell with using magnesium instead of aluminum.

Good to have confirmation on the voltage, 1.35 volts is what I am reading after a week being suspended in the plastic. Have you noticed this - Most if not all galvanic cells show high voltage/high current immediately and then drop off. The glue cell starts out very conservative, and over time builds up and holds the voltage. I do not have data yet on long term current. I am building another cell suspended in the plastic and taking pictures of each step - as you know, this is not a quick process. I hope to show these in a day or so. When first placed in the glue/epsom salt/salt substitute the voltage is barely noticible. Two hours later the voltage is 0.61 and as you know, about 12 hours later you can read the 1.35 volts. This seems odd to me.
Brad S