Bedini Earth Light

[Artisan]

Query

Hello all,

I have been following the forum closely and have some ideas on what direction to take with my replication.

@IB,

Can you confirm the current state of your original original Alum, Borax and Epson dry cell that you demo a few weeks back? Is voltage still maintained or has it slowly diminished in strength like the Hutchinson attempts? (ie. allow a LED to run without 'resting')

Also, how is the original copper/magnesium glue cells hold up? Is that still providing the same approximate working voltage?

@Plengo,

I love your Sodium Silicate-wetting-to-Epsom salt technique. How are those cells holding up after day 3?

Cheers,

[ibpointless2]

@IB,

Can you confirm the current state of your original original Alum, Borax and Epson dry cell that you demo a few weeks back? Is voltage still maintained or has it slowly diminished in strength like the Hutchinson attempts? (ie. allow a LED to run without 'resting')

Also, how is the original copper/magnesium glue cells hold up? Is that still providing the same approximate working voltage?


Cheers,

The stove cell or alum, borax and salt substitute cell is still alive. I have 3 cells left. Two cells produce about .970 volts and the third is at 1.200 volts. This not bad results for a cell that doesn't need water added to it to keep it going.

The Glue cells (Elmer's Glue, salt substitute, Epsom salt, copper and magnesium) are doing the best out off all my cells. They still have the original voltage they started with. The best part is the cell I shorted out since 8-12-11. This cell is fully dry and the plates show no corrosion and are still strong. Removing the short and hooking it to a meter showed .500 volts and it kept climbing till it got back to its original 1.4 volts.

[plengo]

Hello all,
@Plengo,

I love your Sodium Silicate-wetting-to-Epsom salt technique. How are those cells holding up after day 3?

Cheers,

I have 4 cells running now. The first one used close to Hutchinson formula. That has been running for 3 weeks or more and it is good. When goes down a drop of water makes it alive again. This was done with 3 cells in series (copper caps, Mg, Alum, Epson, Rochelle, Galina, Silver, Iron Pyrite) lighting an 2.7v super bright LED. Nice addition to my bed table.

The second 5 cells in series is also running the same LED for 6 days now. Very good brightness and no water added. It is sealed with tape and aluminum duck tape (for the nice looking). It is done using ONLY Alum with a piece of paper impregnated with Silica (just like in the video using Epson) and copper cap and Magnesium. That has been the best winner so far concerning durability and non maintenance. Very bright light, so bright that in the night my wife does not allow me to put on the table bed, so I put under the bed which makes the whole room like a space ship.

The third 5 cells in series, same LED, (shown on my latest video) using only Epson with the impregnated paper on Silica is doing ok but I can see that the light intensity is diminishing including the voltage. Does not seems to be a winner even though I thought it would be. I also created another 3 cells using only Epson but I applied pressure using clamps and it does make a huge difference. Under pressure it produces a lot more power and if you let it dry under pressure it will stay there and perform very well. That is also going down in power with time.

I have a fourth test cell going with Epson and silica, copper and Mg foil to see how long it will take to eat away the Mg or the Cu. It is lighting a 1.7v red LED for two days now.

Fausto.

[goldenfuel]

Tapping Solar Energy

Another heat storage system uses eutectic chemicals to store a large amount of energy in a small volume. But, how does it work?

Bernard from Belleair Bluffs

[eternalightwithin]

John B et al,

Upon heating, the Mag. sulfate is in less hydrated form and I just learned that the crystalline structure is different.
So I went browsing for all the crystalline forms of MgSO4 and came across an interesting crystalline form, only happens at 0 degrees.

Crystallization and Characterization of a New Magnesium Sulfate Hydrate MgSO4·11H2O
Crystallization and Characterization of a New Magnesium Sulfate Hydrate MgSO4·11H2O - Crystal Growth & Design (ACS Publications)

I think the second half of the abstract is... well read it.

David P

[mikrovolt]

Thanks John for explaining, I do believe you.
The information gives understanding into how this tool can be used
and why specific metals will narrow the crystals wave absorbing selectively
that the illusive longitudinal can be accessed using L-wave interferometry.

[Lidmotor]

5 minute Epoxy sealed crystal cell

@ All
I built a small cell today using one of those copper pipe end caps. Instead of magnesium I used a hot dipped galvanized machine screw. The electrolyte chemicals were Alum, Epsom salts, and Rochelle salts. They were stove top melted into the copper cap. To finish it I sealed it with 5 minute epoxy. The cell put out about .8 volts. It has just enough power to run one of my LED oscillators. We will see how this one lasts. The IB cell is still powering "Penny". The voltage goes up durnig the day and is down in the morning. The voltage is about .9 volts under load and has been that way for days.

Here is the cell that I built today. It is kinda like what Minoly and Plengo have already done. The sealing of the cell is what Brad has been trying.

John B.----You will like the last part of the video where I show the Iron pyrite rock and the Epsom salt crystal.

Epoxy sealed crystal battery.ASF - YouTube

Lidmotor

[quantumuppercut]

I've been exploring one of John Hutchinson aspect about initial jump start of the battery. The result shows it may be necessary and could be one of the main key. Still a few things left on this before I give my opinion.

I use plastic metal bought from Autozone as paste between the metals. Let it dry after sandwich in between a penny and nickle. Using a two 9 V battery to jump these cells.

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawe...SevTSeSSSSSS--

[ibpointless2]

The IB cell is still powering "Penny". The voltage goes up durnig the day and is down in the morning. The voltage is about .9 volts under load and has been that way for days.


Lidmotor

some of my cells have reached the .9 volt range too and just go up and down. Glad to see Penny still going.

[NickZ]

quantumuppercut:
Thank you for the information on the bondo, I'll give it a try.
Using the right electrolyte, pure metals, and the initial charging are exactly what we need
Remember not to charge new cells for more than a few seconds or you'll damage the metals, especially Mg.
As we already know that cu/carbon, or cu/mg, make the for the best electrodes, what we really need is to figure out how to make a solid dry electrolyte that does not cause oxidation. And then to further hermetically seal the cell from moisture.
Many of the cells that are being made are losing their output levels over time, and although people think that the metals are not affected, they are. It may be hard to see this, as all it takes is slight surface etching that will not allow current to flow.
John Bs tests are the best way to go on this. As some cells start out great, but soon become worthless, mostly due to oxidation of the electrodes, but the electrolyte may also become contaminated.
An electrolyte lets ions through and not electricity, but it allows for electrolysis to break down the metals.
There is something special about the initial charging, as the metals will hold that charge like a capacitor for quite a while. I'll try the two or three 9 volt batteries, connected to a capacitor bank to jump-start the cells. All it takes is a few seconds. We do need to see it this step is really needed, or not.
The main thing here is finding the proper electrolyte, otherwise it's just a waist of time, as the metals are all eaten up, and the cells has lose their output.

John B:
The picture is of one of my cement cell banks that was made over six months ago, and is still working. If I connect the positive of the cells to an led it will light on one wire. I will now further ground the cell bank and see if I can increase the output. This has NOTHING to do with a galvanic reaction, and is more similar to Dr. Stifflers latest effects. Me thinks, Of course I could be wrong, but the led is dimly lit, on one wire, so,...
Actually I'm seeing this on many types of different cells that I've made, and this effect does vary during the day or night, as there are times when the led won't light at all. Has anyone else seen this effect???

[NickZ]

Somehow I attached to wrong picture, sorry, this is the one showing the cement cell bank. All the cells are still working, although they have lost half of there 70mA current out levels, and are now at 30mA (each cell). Still higher that most other cells that I've been making lately. If the center copper electrode is replaced with carbon, the output would probably not drop, as when using copper. The copper spiral is almost one pound of weight, and makes for an antenna, of sorts.

[plengo]

I made a new series of cells last night using only copper caps and magnesium and alum. It started very well but by the morning it has diminished to half of its luminosity.

My first cell is still running perfectly without any loss in luminosity. The only difference between the first and this last is that the first I DID use a torch to make the oxide copper layer inside the copper cap.

May be the "diode" formation is indeed relevant as Bedini mentioned.

I also have created some mix using carbon and alum and it works very well in the beginning but also loose power as it dries. So many options to play. I just purchased from ebay 100 end caps 1/2" for the next series of experiments.

Fausto.

[quantumuppercut]

quantumuppercut:
Thank you for the information on the bondo, I'll give it a try.
Using the right electrolyte, pure metals, and the initial charging are exactly what we need
Remember not to charge new cells for more than a few seconds or you'll damage the metals, especially Mg.
As we already know that cu/carbon, or cu/mg, make the for the best electrodes, what we really need is to figure out how to make a solid dry electrolyte that does not cause oxidation. And then to further hermetically seal the cell from moisture.
Many of the cells that are being made are losing their output levels over time, and although people think that the metals are not affected, they are. It may be hard to see this, as all it takes is slight surface etching that will not allow current to flow.
John Bs tests are the best way to go on this. As some cells start out great, but soon become worthless, mostly due to oxidation of the electrodes, but the electrolyte may also become contaminated.
An electrolyte lets ions through and not electricity, but it allows for electrolysis to break down the metals.
There is something special about the initial charging, as the metals will hold that charge like a capacitor for quite a while. I'll try the two or three 9 volt batteries, connected to a capacitor bank to jump-start the cells. All it takes is a few seconds. We do need to see it this step is really needed, or not.
The main thing here is finding the proper electrolyte, otherwise it's just a waist of time, as the metals are all eaten up, and the cells has lose their output.

John B:
The picture is of one of my cement cell banks that was made over six months ago, and is still working. If I connect the positive of the cells to an led it will light on one wire. I will now further ground the cell bank and see if I can increase the output. This has NOTHING to do with a galvanic reaction, and is more similar to Dr. Stifflers latest effects. Me thinks, Of course I could be wrong, but the led is dimly lit, on one wire, so,...
Actually I'm seeing this on many types of different cells that I've made, and this effect does vary during the day or night, as there are times when the led won't light at all. Has anyone else seen this effect???

Hi Nickz,

I'll tell you more about my experiment because I know you have higher hopes than anyone in here.

The paste won't give you applicable current. It just gives enough to show voltage on the meter. First few to 12 hours before completely dry, it easily show voltage (~300-700V with battery jump). However, they die out after it completely dry (~20-50mV). I put one of the dead cell to heat and it shows voltage with respect to copper and nickle(~100-300mV). I see this as a monothermal cell (depends on absolute temperature). This is a bad paste for useful application because the heated temperature is greater than boiling of water. I'm looking for a paste that would react on a sunny day or at least minimal use of magnifying glass of some sort.

The interesting thing about this experiment is I saw the voltage hold and higher when jump with a battery than without. So there is a mystery about this. Right now I'm using two pennies and the paste in between with 15V constantly connected. If indeed it holds voltage or shows polarity bias when heat up after curing would subject to interpretation. Right now I'm thinking using voltage while it wet still dry is a process of "electric polarization" as oppose to "magnetic polarization". It's like making a permanent battery in the same process as a permanent magnet. Sounds cool? hehe Crossing my finger though.

[John_Bedini]

How To Make A Star Cell Step By Step

In this video I show how I make the star cell and test it.
John Bedini

YouTube
How To Make A Star Cell CC.John Bedini.wmv - YouTube

[b_rads]

MgSO4 crystals

@all:
While searching for a way to build a dimensional crystal lattice from the Epsom Salt without using heat, I stumbled upon this method of growing Magnesium Sulphate crystals. This may or may not get me the results I am looking for. Next time I can get to the bench, I will try this though. I am thinking about applying very low heat (plus or minus 180F) to assist in the evaporation. This might even work out to be a way to dope the structure. Given how temperamental (ha ha) it can be to heat the salts and get even heating to remove all air pockets and get a good solid crystal structure. Given current obligations, I will not be able to try this for several days therefore, if any one does try this before I get a chance, I would like to hear your results.
@lidmotor:
The cells that I sealed in plastic are still generating voltage. I noticed about a week ago that there is some green starting to form around the copper electrode. These cells perform better when left in a window.
Brad S.