Bedini Earth Light

[mk1]

@all

Oil sure works , that is old prehistoric tech .

Edison Battery Oil Bottles

It will also keep the electrolyte or water from evaporating .

Marc

[John_Bedini]

Earth Light

@ All
Now that we have worked out some of the problems with the magnesium knowing what Elum does as Peter and I found out Yesterday. it's time to mix the correct amount into a past and build a crystal battery, does that give you any hints.

John H will not say anything and never will give the information for you to reproduce his rock cell but this getting much easier to figure out now. I have a carbon Graphite and magnesium cell. I have been spraying light coats of Alum on it to form a crystal lattice it seem to be working on one of my Monopole motors now for last 4 weeks. We just need the correct crystal arrangement and we have it.

I can tell that one of the electrodes is Magnesium possibly with Mercury rubbed over it. I'm not saying that you should work with Mercury but I remember from Science class rubbing Mercury on Zinc to keep the Zinc in tact. Nobody understood the dangers of Mercury then, no worse then playing with CFL's.

Look at marcus reid crystal battery - Google Search

John B

[John_Bedini]

earth Light

Here one more link
Marcus Reid -- Crystal battery

[cody]

John B

Are you using your radiant charging technique to build the alum crystals in the cells you are working on?

Cody

[FRC]

Note

I am in the process of converting a battery to alum. When going over the old
thread on this procedure, I came across this: Lead_Acid_Car_Battery_Repair

They say to use magnesium (epsom salts) with hot distilled water. So tried this with my radiantly charged lead acid batteries. There seemed to be an almost immediate improvement. Thought others might be interested.

FRC

[Inquorate]

Alright i'll join the party.

I was about to be tracking down some carbon rod and magnesium ribbon, and using alum salts in the insulating paper like this:

Crystal Growing Tree Kit

but in light of previous posts, i assume we'll be heading in the direction of chalk-carbon-magnesium salts-alum-lead oxide etc paste..

I assume the current concept for the energy source is a broadband rf signal developed by random crystal lattices reaching resonances, fed by the negative resistance temperature differentials owing to the carbon..

This develops more resonances et al until electrons shake loose, leaving still vibrating electron holes, where virtual particles are encouraged to coalesce..

Also, thought i'd bring up this as a possible setting agent;

CHERIC | ¿¬±¸Á¤º¸ | ¹®ÇåDB | ÇмúÁö °Ë»ö

the benefits of combining the constant voltage field of an epoxy-salt electret and the constant? current of a crystal lattice battery could be worth the effort down the track..

Watching avidly, will still get the carbon rod and magnesium ribbon if doing so would help group progress, just let me know.

[Dr Saminstine]

Mag cell info

I have been following the mag cells and have built several out of water filters and air filters the first battery I built I used a salt solution it didn't last too long I have built others in distilled water and colloidal silver in distilled water these have lasted longer but the greatest success so far has been a hollow one inch dia carbon rod 6" long with the center drilled @ 1/2 inch then wrapped with felt the1/8" mag strip then wrapped with 1/16 space and the whole thing submerged in a high ppm silver solution the btm 1" is left bare carbon and the electrode is inserted into a jar,add one and a half inches of solution then add vegetable oil until fully covered the water wickes into the carbon and so far the cell is good I also use a 3/32"carbon fiber rod drilled down into the carbon as my positive the water fills the core and the oil protects from air. Thank you all who contribute to a better tomorrow

Sam

[aaron5120]

Dr. good work, keep going

I have been following the mag cells and have built several out of water filters and air filters the first battery I built I used a salt solution it didn't last too long I have built others in distilled water and colloidal silver in distilled water these have lasted longer but the greatest success so far has been a hollow one inch dia carbon rod 6" long with the center drilled @ 1/2 inch then wrapped with felt the1/8" mag strip then wrapped with 1/16 space and the whole thing submerged in a high ppm silver solution the btm 1" is left bare carbon and the electrode is inserted into a jar,add one and a half inches of solution then add vegetable oil until fully covered the water wickes into the carbon and so far the cell is good I also use a 3/32"carbon fiber rod drilled down into the carbon as my positive the water fills the core and the oil protects from air. Thank you all who contribute to a better tomorrow

Sam

Hi DrSaminstine,
I saw your YT clips regarding the Captret blinking LED circuit, and I think the idea is ingenious. Great job, dude.
I bought 50 red blinking LEDs for a replication of your idea.
I got a JT circuit which lights 200 Christmas Tree led lights continuously, I wonder if I can use the blinking LEDs to control somehow these 200 leds to blink (the IC control box which came with the lights did not work, because the driving transistors can only pass DC, and the JT outputs HF AC.
I already burned several of those ICs ).
This earth battery is a hit for the JT, I just want to make enough of them to drive my 200 led circuit. Currently, the circuit is consuming 38mA 3V from two AA alkaline batteries for lighting all the leds(200) for more than 4 days 24 hours a day.

[chuck H]

Phototransistor

Chuck---- I'm glad that you got that to work. I worked with this idea all week and found that if you wrap plain old aluminum foil around the cartridge you get almost a volt with enough punch to run the circuit. I used just plain tap water with no additive. The foil seem to hold up amazingly well. You can't beat the cost and availability.
I decided to use an infrared phototransistor between the base and emitter of the 2N2222 to solve the on/off problem instead of using John's way. It is an easy idea but not my idea. I saw it done somewhere before and it works very well except that when it shuts down the circuit it still leaks about 100 to 200 micro amps. For the battery situation we have-- where all we care about is turning the light on and off ---it works just fine. The Radio Shack part# is 276-0145 and here is a link to the part:

Infrared Phototransistor - RadioShack.com

The thing looks like a white LED. The collector (short end) goes to the base of the 2N2222 and the emitter (long end) goes to the 2N2222 emitter. When light hits it the device keeps the transistor from functioning. Sensitivity is controlled by adjusting the base resistance.

@Mikrovolt
I enjoyed your link to the article on magnesium. That really helped.

Cheers,

Lidmotor

@ Lidmotor,
Thanks for the info. I am making some of these for around the house in vases and planters and the photo cell will work great for the small applications. I have been working with the aluminum but have not found the combination I'm happy with as of yet . I have many things going on with this stuff and sometimes need to walk away from a couple to finish others.... Thanks everybody for all the info.

[Lidmotor]

Too many experiments and not enough clip leads

@Chuck H
I know what you mean about having all these experiment going on at the same time. I am running out of clip leads and my wife says that the house is looking like a toy store. There are all these whirling things and lights on here and there. This battery project brought on a bunch of testing with mixed results. Some of the things that I have tried were truely amazing.

John B you have my head spinning with the Alum and crystal part of this. The more I got into it the more questions it raised. The biggest one is-- can we actually get real usable power out of a cell WITHOUT a galvanic reaction happening??? The internet research that I have done says yes ---but the details on exactly HOW are vague. Research into John Hutchison's work was most frustrating.

----And the work goes on.

Lidmotor

[ibpointless2]

The biggest one is-- can we actually get real usable power out of a cell WITHOUT a galvanic reaction happening??? The internet research that I have done says yes ---but the details on exactly HOW are vague. Research into John Hutchison's work was most frustrating.

----And the work goes on.

Lidmotor

From my understanding is that if you use two dissimilar metals then most, not all, of your voltage is coming from the galvanic reaction. The only way to get rid of the galvanic reaction is to not use dissimilar metals. And this has been done with my water aluminum cells, i show you how to make them here YouTube - How to make a Water Captret Battery.MP4 skip to 8:45 to see the voltage. Even though the voltage is not near the voltage you'll see in the cells that John makes or lasersaber my cell has eliminated the galvanic reaction, thus nothing is consumed.

As for John Hutchison it can be hard to trust him, many of his video with anti-gravity have been proven fake with him either using fishing line or editing. His crystal batteries due hold some truth to them and should be further studied but he doesn't release any information about them so how can we trust him?

Also i don't know how we got on the subject of John Hutchison crystal batteries when we're not working with crystals? Marcus Ried also was messing around with something more similar and his work is very real but he was messing with minerals and not metals. Its been known for a long time that minearls and rocks give off electricity, you can test this your self by getting a rock from outside and testing it. Some rocks give off electricity and some don't.

The way that John Hutchison and Marcus Ried make their cells seem a lot like electrets. Marcus Ried even pointed out that most dielectrics give off small voltage. Now you start seeing a pattern of what Marcus Ried, John Hutchison, John Bedini, and even myself have put together. All of the types of cell start sharing the same characteristics, ****metal plates separated by a dielectric****. The dielectric can be a rock, mineral, water, or what ever shows dielectric abilities. Then you start to take a step back and start realizing that a lot more components share this characteristics of metal plates separated by a dielectric. Many of our electrical components share this idea such as the resistor, diode, capacitor, etc.... The metal plates separated by a dielectric is what i'm calling the golden component, because they all share this same golden idea of how something should be. Now you see that a resistor is nothing more than a capacitor and a diode can be a battery, because they all follow the same idea of metals separated by a dielectric. But we make our components based on a closed system and thus we don't see overuinty.

[FRC]

Zinc crystals

Here is a link that was posted on the Discussion on HHO thread :Zinc Oxide Crystal Acting as Piezoelectric Material To Get Hydrogen From Water | Hydrogen Power I was wondering if these crystals could be used in some sort of
battery arrangement.

FRC

[Inquorate]

Not Galvanic

Not galvanic people, i particularly liked these two videos and will b e rounding up the ingredients

YouTube - Crystal battery cement battery
YouTube - How to make crystal batteries free energy 1 of 2

[cody]

Not sure how much this relates, but its really cool. Take a look at these alum crystals you can grow. I have read that they grow with the same angle the great pyramid has.

YouTube - Pyramid alum growing crystal - Cristal d'alun pyramidal

here's how to make

YouTube - Alum Pyramid Seed
YouTube - alum crystal generator 2

[bigsupersquid]

my 2 cents

Just was pointed to this lovely thread, and read it through. So, the first response I have is to a rather old post in this thread...

@John @ All

I've been playing with these circuits trying to learn more and ultimately my goal is to device a method to drive and control about 60 CFL tubes in a greenhouse off grid. Currently, the power gets inverted to AC, from solar, then ran into ballasts. This property is pretty rural so I am not quite as concerned about RF as I would be in town. My hopes are that I can devise a circuit that runs on the supply of 12v directly and if at all possible, actually used the collapse transients to help further the process. My thoughts are too that timing the circuit could also possibly provide energy savings. Later on I will take it further and figure out how to detect the "sun strength" and have those lights dim and or shutoff when ambient light is available (sun comes out from behind a cloud or rises in the morning) - which would further optimize the system. I have even thought about incorporating a tesla switching system behind this to take it even further in terms of battery consumption. All in due time. I somehow imagine a Bedini - like circuit doing this. Perhaps I don't understand - and - in a normal ballast you are getting that bonus already? In any event I am learning a lot about transistors, tonight I learned how to check them and identify properties, I'm getting a better grasp on this stuff daily. If my thoughts in general are not sensible, I welcome anyone to set me straight.

Look here for info on building your own 35w electronic ballasts for flourescent bulbs...
You'd have to gut CFL's of their electronics and render them back to their orginal Tesla design by shorting the coils on each end to make single terminals (instead of coils meant to burn up) to use a 12v sourced ballast on 'em though, like Imhotep did with his CFL modification lit with a chattering relay-diode-ignition coil circuit. edit: radiant oscillator.
Regular flourescent tubes could be lit with an electronic ballast the same way, but apply HVAC across the tube by shorting the coils at each end to act as single terminals at each end.
Funny, I was absolutely sure I'd posted my experiments in Imhotep's thread a couple years back, but now the forum shows I only have one other post, in Rick's thread on the friction boiler. Go figure.
As far as galvanic action in batteries, my college physics book says that no electrolyte is actually required to produce power from dissimilar metals... metals can be held in direct physical contact with nothing between them and still produce power... sounds a bit like the thermocouple references here and there through this thread, but the physics book makes no mention of temerature differential being required to operate. It also doesn't discuss corrosion in that sort of setup, and is really only in the book as an example I think.
This whole powercell idea in this thread looks really interesting. I'll be playing with the concepts a bit in my (near nonexistent) free time.
Thanks all for sharing your contributions.