Bedini Earth Light

[ibpointless2]

I've been reading some interesting things about copper. That green "rust" you see on the copper is actually a good thing.

"Similar to iron and aluminum, the element copper undergoes the process of oxidation, if it is exposed to air. Over here, copper metal reacts with oxygen, resulting in the formation of copper oxide, which appears green in color. It is to be noted that copper does not react with water. The outer green layer, formed after the oxidation of copper, is known as patina.

Unlike other destructive oxidation, patina acts as a protective layer. This is the reason as to why, copper is considered as an important metal, resistant to corrosion. The patina prevents further corrosion of copper beneath the oxidized layer. Very often, patina is seen on the roofs of old buildings, which acts as a waterproofing layer. "

Why Does Copper Oxidize and Turn Green



So it seems the oxide layer keeps corrosion from happening to the copper, could also be acting like a diode too?

[NickZ]

I have repaired way too many battery connections on boats, cars, motorcycles, bikes, as well as many many wire connections that are totally waisted away and covered by this green scum, to the point of dissolving any metal not just the copper, completely. So, I don't buy it. Anybody with a saltwater boat knows about this all too well. Like I said I'll take a picture in a day or two and show you, in a month or two there won't be much left to show, as it will have eaten away at the metal.
The main point is that current will not flow through it, due to the resistance it creates, and this will heat the metal to the point of melting it, even when using an AA. A roof is one thing, a salt glue cell is another. Roofs are not exposed to direct contact with salt. I have also seen the same thing happen with aluminum, which does not rust, it just turns to dust. I will also show you the results of using salt on my cement cells, at least whats left of them.

[b_rads]

I'm seeing crazy things too, but do want to try the joule thief thing too.

IB:
If you read my earlier post you will notice that I made 2 glue cells last night using mineral oil and magnesium ribbon. The cell with copper sulfate is not going to survive, but the control cell looks great. I put the meter on it and read 1.42V and a quarter of a milliamp. I connected this cell to Lidmotor's Steel Wire Pancake Joule Thief. Guess what? It works! The light performs as well with your glue cell as it does with the cement cell. I will be away from the bench for a week, but if this still works on my return, I will post a video.
Brad S

[NickZ]

b-rads, IB and anyone else:
Thanks for that bit of information, glad to hear it.
The glue cell I made is still connected to the cement cell, and is still lighting the red led at about 50% light intensity, but will not light a white led.
Although the word galvavic sounds a little like self destruction, it may not have to be that way. But sealing out the air is important. As it is really the oxygen in the air, or in the water, that is causing problems.
What I notice is that the use of salt really doesn't produce that much more power, and can be substituted with something not so short lived, without losing much, if anything.
We are not inventing anything new, this is all old hat to battery people. If they thought that salt was the way to go, they would be using it, but they don't, they use acid, equally as bad, but they know that they have to seal it from the air. The newer sealed lead acid batteries are better than the old ones that aren't sealed. The difference is they last longer, as expected. We also need to get up to speed on this, as well as using plates with plenty of surface area, instead of wires for the electrodes.

[NickZ]

Brad:
If you are still there, the idea of using mineral oil, does make some sense. Can that be obtained at the drug store, hardware store,? I am familiar with the stuff, but it would really need to be tested first, to see if it helps to control the oxidation, without dropping the output.

[b_rads]

Brad:
If you are still there, the idea of using mineral oil, does make some sense. Can that be obtained at the drug store, hardware store,? I am familiar with the stuff, but it would really need to be tested first, to see if it helps to control the oxidation, without dropping the output.

Nick:
I got mine at the drug store. The bottle says "Mineral Oil - Intestinal lubricant" yuck. It is used as a laxitive. The wife made me carry it through the store and hand it to the clerk. I was thinking of submerging the plates and using plastic coated wire as the leads. Worth a shot.
Brad S

[NickZ]

Yes, it makes things flow much better. Worth a try. Thanks for letting us know where to get it. Good stuff. Hope it works. I don"t think that even Lasersaber mentioned what kind of oil he is using. Snake oil, maybe.

[NickZ]

It might work for the mg/carbon cell also to coat the cloth wrappings, instead of snake oil, or whatever oil he used.

[NickZ]

Still another guy pushing his wares.

[NickZ]

IB:
Here are the pictures of the glue cell after just a few days, It is attached to my cement cell. The output is fairly bright, but the flash makes it look dim.
Also a couple of my Hartley oscillator circuits.

[ibpointless2]

IB:
Here are the pictures of the glue cell after just a few days, It is attached to my cement cell. The output is fairly bright, but the flash makes it look dim.
Also a couple of my Hartley oscillator circuits.

Your glue cell looks different than mine, it seems thicker. I do my cell like it is because it gets rid of the water much quicker and doesn't trap the water. Thanks for the upload of the pics i'm still trying to figure it out. Its weird how the coppers green tarnish gets absorbed by the glue and spread out.

The two cells connected does seem very interesting since they're light a LED. Where can I get the circuit for the Hartley oscillator that you're using?

[ibpointless2]

Here is some pictures of my Glue, salt substitute, and Epsom salts cell that has been shorted out for 6 days straight and still bounces back to the full voltage. Still no green tarnish showing on copper and no corrosion showing on the aluminum.

[NickZ]

The salt cell was made with old white glue, and when I added the table salt it formed a thick blob. I would have made is bigger yet, but I ran out of glue, I had stolen it from my daughter. The glue-cement cells are still working this morning although the red led is a little weaker. I would think that the Epsom may work better, but it not available here. The reason that yours are not showing signs of rust is because it seams that the glue seals them airtight, so the reaction with the air and oxygen is retarded, as I've seen saying. On mine the copper and aluminum wires are somewhat lose from messing with them, yet they are still working, although the blob has not dried yet.
What this may indicate is that we may be getting fooled by the battery companies in only selling us cells that discharge and need to be replaced. How convenient for them, hug? I'm sure they know about this effect, as well as how to really do it right, but...

[NickZ]

Ib:
As the glue cell you make is thin, why don't you try to connect them together in series, to see if you can light an led just with your cells. Try to connect them together, first without the Jtc. But if you want to try, I would use the system that b-rads has made, that was it was Lidmotors idea using the pancake coil. U can check his recent video.
I don't get those low draws in the microamp range with mine, as I don't have the right toroid for best results. b-rads said his new circuit lights the led blindingly bright. I will also try the pancake coil sometime, as it requires no inner core. And I think that using regular phone wire might also work, but, I don't know if is has been tried yet. It is so easy to wind, the pancake type coil it can probably be done in 5 minutes, or less.
What still blows me away is the power coming off of Lasersabers mg/carbon cell. Permanent galvanic output, can't wait to make some big candycanes. as Jeanna used to call them...
Finding carbon rods and Mg ribbon is not that easy for me here. I'll try the carbor filter element with aluminum, or galvinized wire first instead.

[ibpointless2]

Here is a video showing why I think my latest glue crystal cells are important. I show the control cell and many others and every cell can't match the output of the latest glue cell I show at the end of the video.

‪What Makes The Latest Glue Crystal Cells Important‬‏ - YouTube