Bedini Earth Light

[b_rads]

Suggestions

B rads,
If you would use the Hotpoint method you will find that the black copper oxide is making a N type device and the red is making a P type device. These are all semiconductors. use the group chart in the elements to dope it, then cook it for a few minutes. It make a good crystal battery.
John B

Thank you for the suggestion! How would I do this? I received my order of “Antimony (Sb)” last week that I would like to try. Should this be combined with the red or black? Would I gather some filings and place on the copper sheet and then heat to create the desired effect or is there a better way?

Brad S

[NickZ]

For those that have not seen or read this, it might help:
What is a semiconductor device?
Semiconductor device - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

[radiant1]

Thanks for the semi conductor page.

Even though I got 100% on every chemistry test in highschool I have been having to reveiw these also.

Ion - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Periodic table - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

We are still trying to find cheap magnesium sheets.

Alan

[John_Bedini]

Semiconductors

Thank you for the suggestion! How would I do this? I received my order of “Antimony (Sb)” last week that I would like to try. Should this be combined with the red or black? Would I gather some filings and place on the copper sheet and then heat to create the desired effect or is there a better way?

Brad S

Look Here. Doped Semiconductors
John B

[b_rads]

It works!

Look Here. Doped Semiconductors
John B

@John B and Jim (jehdds)
Thank You Thank You Thank You
I am trying 2 different methods to dope the copper oxides. Since I am forbidden from using the kitchen for my experiments, and rightly so (see lidmotor), I am forced into using the butane torch. I filed the antimony onto the native copper (looks like micro glitter) and heated for 15 minutes with the torch to a black oxide. You could see the antimony sparkle like stars in the sky when heating. I let this cool normally. My first attempt had some pieces that were a little bigger and burned holes completely through the copper when heated.
The second method I have going is attempting to electoplate the antimony onto the red oxide. This appears to be working, but it is a very slow process. I am using distilled water and Cream of Tartar as the bath.
I was able to repeat my earlier tests with the copper from the first method of incorporating the antimony. The bare Mg had about the same results as the copper oxide only. The second two tests with oxide on the Mg had about the same or slightly higher voltage readings but the current was much higher. The third test using a drop of distilled water was just over 30ma.

Yippee!

This feels better than the first time I was able to light an LED from a galvanic battery. Antimony is perhaps the most handsome rock I have held in my gloved hand. For those who have not seen what antimony looks like, check out the picture here.
Antimony - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
I purchased mine from this company:
ANTIMONY 1Pound 99.6% min Pure Ingot
Of the group 15 elements, this was the least expensive and easiest to get. Phosphorus is nearly impossible, Lab Grade Arsenic and Bismuth are pricey.

Now I need to find out if I am making p or n semiconductors, If the junction needs to be complete, and what will excite this buld into full time power output. Thanks for the link John B. I looked at it briefly and will study it more. Again, thanks to everyone - this is great fun!

Brad S

[jehdds]

Guys,
Here is another Clip that you might find interesting. An Additional one will be added later concerning RF sensitivity of the Zn0 Epsom Galina Pyrite cells etc. This clip is regarding Copper Oxide layers.
Copper Oxide Red vs Black - YouTube

Very Best Regards,
Jim

[jehdds]

Guys,
Here is a link to the clip showing possible RF interaction with the Mg/Zn0/Epsoms, pyrite and GALINA cells.
RF Sensitivity for Crystal Cell?.mov - YouTube
Could this be an ancillary mechanism for the spontaneous rebound phenomenon I have seen? All thoughts welcome.
A broad range transmitter would be helpful to determine what frequency is the best etc.
Very best Regards,
Jim

[everyidea]

Valence Electrons

The doping of semiconductors is based on the use of Si or Ge as the base structure, which both have 4 valence electrons. But, both Cu and Mg have two valence electrons. Would it be prudent to test elements with 1 valence for N doping and 3 valence for P doping? 1 valence would be using Na and 3 valence would be using Al.

BTW, here's a good read for those playing around with MgO/ZnO:
http://www.physics.arizona.edu/~leon...one_thesis.pdf

rw

[radiant1]

I too was suprised to see the penta and tri valence combos. In studying this chart there are many easy to get single and double valence elements. Above 5 valence a lot are exotic or high oxidizers. Glad to see these charts getting used instead of guesing around with no basis other than copiying what others did.

Electron shell - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Alan

[area46241]

interesting...salt free

yes maybe the copper oxides are the magical component...certainly part of it...more focus on the copper dipole...

[area46241]

sulfer valence is of interest...

sulfer is a catalyst flipflopping from two to four and plays a major role in rhe epsome salts cells...and lead acid...could sulfer be used?

[radiant1]

water heater mag. rod scource.

We just found a 3/4" magnesium rod laying around from an old water heater we took apart. So we will make a magnesium rod/ copper pipe cell tomorrow. Will just be salts and no dopping to set a baseline for improvements. We are going to test to see if the voltage potential between the air and earth of 30 votls per foot can be used to up volts and amps. Certified out of the box experimenters.
Alan

[ibpointless2]

Guys,
Here is a link to the clip showing possible RF interaction with the Mg/Zn0/Epsoms, pyrite and GALINA cells.
RF Sensitivity for Crystal Cell?.mov - YouTube
Could this be an ancillary mechanism for the spontaneous rebound phenomenon I have seen? All thoughts welcome.
A broad range transmitter would be helpful to determine what frequency is the best etc.
Very best Regards,
Jim

This is very interesting. But I do worry if its not the cell picking up the RF or is it the Metal plate acting like a ground? Could you do this again but with the same metals use used in the is video but use a damp paper towel as the separator and see if you still get a voltage increase. Thanks.

[b_rads]

Painted Anode

@all:
Quick update from last night’s experiments. I took a Harbor Freight Mg Fire Starter, removed the striker and cut into 3 pieces. Each piece is approx. 1 ˝ x 1 ˝ inch square. After sanding to a shiny finish, two of these pieces were painted with Titebond wood glue and ZnO. I diluted the glue mix with distilled water in order to create a very thin layer. This glue is more akin to the Elmer’s Glue All. This is not the watertight, waterproof glue.

This morning the anodes looked to be totally dry. I placed one of the painted anodes onto the doped copper black oxide sample that was made last night with a small amount of bottled drinking water between the metals. The voltage was slightly lower at 1.6Volts. Are you ready for this? The current topped 100ma.

This would indicate to me that it is the ZnO layer that is providing the majority of the results on the anode side of the build. I read somewhere that PVA (polyvinyl acetate) creates a polycrystal. Could it really be so simple as to just paint the ZnO onto the anode? This is exciting!

Brad S

[NickZ]

Jim:
The fact that you get no voltage when you touch the Mg to the copper means that you are not getting a proper reading. Use the wet paper electrolyte on the bare Mg section as comparison, as a half drop of water is not the way to obtain a true test result. Let us know what readings you get then, compared to the semiconductor section, which appears to be substituting the normal electrolyte. This is all very interesting, but we need to see what is really going on, and why.

I am getting a reading of about 1 volt and 6 mA, between the aluminum capacitor cans and the plain wood carbon used to fill the can, using only the aluminum can and the carbon. No additional, salts, water or anything else.
Although the plain carbon cell has a lower output, it may last much longer.

I am also still able to light a red led on a single capacitor cell, even after one month of the cells constant output. The cell was the original quartz beach rock and carbon from a D cell battery.
The clear quartz points/carbon cell outputs 30 mA 1.5 volts (short circuit) still after three weeks running, although it does not hold that current level for long when it's connected to the meter, as it used to do before.

I forget if it was you that has the 2 volts + readings from a small cell, which is simply amazing, and really needs to be looked into. As nobody has ever gotten over 2 volts. That would mean that you are really getting more output than just the output from the two different metals, or carbon electrodes used. Very important find... but will it light a white led by itself???