Bedini Earth Light

[b_rads]

Refresher Course

@all:
Wanted to let everyone know that I am still working on power cells and enjoying very much reading everyone’s posts. A friend of mine shared this link with me and I found it very interesting and thought it important to share.

http://www.sescocp.com/tutorial.php and
SESCO, Inc. :: Cathodic Protection Engineering

Corrosion is defined in Webster's dictionary as "…the action or process of corrosive chemical change…a gradual wearing away or alteration by a chemical or electrochemical, essentially oxidizing process."

Technically, four conditions must always be present to create a galvanic cell and for corrosion to occur. There must be two different metals, one acting as the anode, and the other acting as the cathode. There must be an electrolyte to provide a path for current to flow from the one metal to the other. And there must be a direct electrical contact between the two metals to complete the electrical circuit. The flow of current through the electrolyte is always from the anode to the cathode. Wherever electrical current leaves the anode to enter the electrolyte, small particles of iron are dissolved into solution, causing pitting at the anode. Wherever the current enters the cathode, molecular hydrogen gas is formed on the surface and the cathode is preserved and protected from corrosion.

If one of the four conditions of a galvanic cell is removed, corrosion cannot continue. It is the removal of one of the four conditions, to reduce or interrupt the flow of galvanic current, which is the basis for cathodic protection and all other forms of corrosion control.

For anyone working on any of the cells discussed in this thread, you should find the information on both links very interesting. I realize most of you probably already know all of this however, it never hurts to refresh and remember what it is you are trying to do. There are many gems in these links that make it worth your time to review. This information is based on the pipe industry, but is quite pertinent to what is being attempted on this thread.

Wishing everyone success.

Brad S

[jehdds]

Brad,
As one of the conditions, "There must be two different metals"
Carbon technically is a non metal, with metal properties.
Is this a legitimate departure from the "four" conditions?
I noticed that the example given at the beginning of the reference shows the quintessential Carbon/Zn cell.....
Just curious as to note if carbon is counted as a metal yet does not fall on the chart of solution potentials either. Thank you for the clarification and these resources!
Very Best Regards,
Jim

[b_rads]

Carbon - Hmmmmm

Brad,
As one of the conditions, "There must be two different metals"
Carbon technically is a non metal, with metal properties.
Is this a legitimate departure from the "four" conditions?
I noticed that the example given at the beginning of the reference shows the quintessential Carbon/Zn cell.....
Just curious as to note if carbon is counted as a metal yet does not fall on the chart of solution potentials either. Thank you for the clarification and these resources!
Very Best Regards,
Jim

You are most correct. Carbon is not a metal. Very good!!
It is however listed in the charts for voltage potentials of electrodes.
Given all the other alternatives - I would take my chances with Carbon.
Brad S

[jehdds]

Guys,
Update on desiccant tests. I tried four times to upload clip and was rejected four times..., anyway,
After 60 hours, removed mini cell
Voltage 1.5v, current 000.6uA
Add one tiny tiny drop from tip of 27ga needle of 70% isopropyl ETOH on the top of the cell away from Mg, and the current went to75uA instantly.
I then added one identical drop H2O and current went to >500uA.
I then added 10 such drops and the cell still seemed very dry yet the current then went to 7mA and 2 volts.
Polar molecules needed. One idea I have is to alternatively layer graphite powder and electrolyte ZnO during cell construction in between electrodes.
Will be testing other non polar molecules that will be superoxiginated as rehydration fluids. Polarity of fluid carrier on fabrication seems optimal at this point. All thoughts welcome.
Very Best Regards,
Jim

[NickZ]

Jim:
You seam to have obtained your Carbon from very good sources. Thanks.
Which of the various types of carbon that you have conduct the best? Especially compared to the pencil leads which seam to produce the most juice? Will your carbon when touching it to the Mg directly show an output? Even without the electrolysis/salt treatment on the Mg, or the use of any other electrolyte used between the two electrodes. How does that reading compare to your other cell readings?

B-rads- I believe that the correct direction or flow of current in our cells is opposite to the pipeline polarity. And is like the Wikipedia explanation that I linked to before, under their heading "Other anodes and cathodes" that have polarity like diodes, semiconductors, electrolytic capacitors, and such as our cells. Electrode - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I notice on Jim's videos that he is placing the red positive tester probe on the carbon-copper part of the cell that he is calling the cathode. Does anyone see what I mean? I feel that it is important to all get this right, and be on the same program. Sorry If I'm boring you all.

Brad, what was not mentioned in your information is if the electrode oxidation can be also be avoided or at least controlled by a lack of Oxygen available, like in a hermetically sealed cell. Or not?
Some cells voltage can be read both ways, but an led will only light one way on these cells, so they do show some polarity.
We have to keep in mind that these cells are not like anything else. As these are not batteries (primary or secondary). As no regular battery can maintain a charge while being used, for months, or years. So, where is all that power coming from, if cells like Ib's glue cell show no signs of wear of the electrodes? Although many of these cells may be working in a galvanic way, I don't think that that would be possible without some form of liquid, water, or air present. As galvanics are dependent on those things. Or not???

[dllabarre]

ibpointless2

Do you have instructions posted somewhere on how to build the Blue Crystal battery? The one with the copper tube and magnesium ribbon?

Thanks

[Haggardhagi]

@ all

Howdy brothers and sisters,
An inquiry as to whether or not anyone has noticed any effect on the crystal cells in regards to the infrared light spectrum...i assume much less tv is being watched these days by ourselves, since we've all been so dedicated with our research...maybe its a good time to pull that infrared led out the end of our remote controls and see what they can do...
Much love,
Aloha
Haggard

[dave_cahoon]

Copper-Copper Cell; wet and dry

Hi group,

Taking advice from John Bedini. I managed to form a thin black oxide layer on copper and on another piece of copper the red oxide. Then i pasted them into a Epsom and Rochelle salt cell. The cell after a few weeks only output is that of the ambient heat and light in the room. If i shine light into the cell the power can double and if i heat the cell lightly i can triple or 6x it. I haven't pushed it to far on the heat side as i don't want the salts to melt and the cell reset. The cell can also be charged with low voltage from a near dead battery and it will hold for some time a current above the ambient heat level of output. Like a cap of sorts. Freezing it to -38f left the cell output at zero, BUT it would still produce power if illuminated.

How to make a copper-copper cell; I used 2 copper pipe caps one is 1/2" the other is 3/4". on the small cap drill a few holes into the end.

For my salmon color P+ oxide layer. Use a pare of vice grips to hold a 3-4inch nail upright. On the nail place the 1/2 cap. Heat with blow torch until bright Orange in temp. Then quickly drop it into 3-4 inches of water. To quench it suddenly.

For my black oxide N layer on the inside of the larger cap (3/4) set the vice grips with nail on the bench. set the cap on the nail. Heat with blow torch until it just starts to uniformly turn red. Stop and let the cap cool slowly. here we want a thin layer of black oxide that's not prone to flake off.

Place the 3/4 black N cap on a hot plate. Fill with Epsom and r-salt mix and heat slowly.

When molten i inserted the smaller red cap into the 3/4 cap with .8v dc across it until it was cold.

If the power could be increased significantly this might work well in a solar water heater to provide power for some system part maybe a pump...

I brazed strip of copper to a small cap and retried the experiment in water. The exact same effect was seen. Tho, the cell was more sensitive to light using the far more transparent water. The water did not become murky and the metals and oxides were not attacked in any way i could notice. The response to heating was the same as the salty dry cell.

Thanks John Bedini, because of you, I made a semiconductor power cell that's easy and very repeatable. Tho very low power output, the physics is most interesting.

Dave

[LetsReplicate]

Hi group,

Taking advice from John Bedini. I managed to form a thin black oxide layer on copper and on another piece of copper the red oxide. Then i pasted them into a Epsom and Rochelle salt cell. The cell after a few weeks only output is that of the ambient heat and light in the room. If i shine light into the cell the power can double and if i heat the cell lightly i can triple or 6x it. I haven't pushed it to far on the heat side as i don't want the salts to melt and the cell reset. The cell can also be charged with low voltage from a near dead battery and it will hold for some time a current above the ambient heat level of output. Like a cap of sorts. Freezing it to -38 left the cell out at zero BUT it would still produce power if illuminated.

How to make a copper-copper cell; I used 2 copper pipe caps one is 1/2" the other is 3/4". on the small cap drill a few holes into the end.

For my salmon color P+ oxide layer. Use a pare of vice grips to hold a 3-4inch nail upright. On the nail place the 1/2 cap. Heat with blow torch until bright Orange in temp. Then quickly drop it into 3-4 inches of water. To quench it suddenly.

For my black oxide N layer on the inside of the larger cap (3/4) set the vice grips with nail on the bench. set the cap on the nail. Heat with blow torch until it just starts to uniformly turn red. Stop and let the cap cool slowly. here we want a thin layer of black oxide that's not prone to flake off.

Place the 3/4 black N cap on a hot plate. Fill with Epsom and r-salt mix and heat slowly.

When molten i inserted the smaller red cap into the 3/4 cap with .8v dc across it until it was cold.

If the power could be increased significantly this might work well in a solar water heater to provide power for some system part maybe a pump...

I brazed strip of copper to a small cap and retried the experiment in water. The exact same effect was seen. Tho, the cell was more sensitive to light using the far more transparent water. The water did not become murky and the metals and oxides were not attacked in any way i could notice. The response to heating was the same as the salty dry cell.

Thanks John Bedini, because of you, I made a semiconductor power cell that's easy and very repeatable. Tho very low power output, the physics is most interesting.

Dave

Hi Dave.

That is an excellent cell you've made there. Would you mind if I post it (both the pictures and the text) as a replication on Let's Replicate? We're just starting out and trying to give people a place to post their replications so they are not forever lost once the argument over their functionality dies.

Yours would be the first one on the Salt Battery/Crystal cell page if you accept.

[ibpointless2]

ibpointless2

Do you have instructions posted somewhere on how to build the Blue Crystal battery? The one with the copper tube and magnesium ribbon?

Thanks

How to Make Big Blue Crystal Glue Cell - YouTube

[dave_cahoon]

Hi Dave.

That is an excellent cell you've made there. Would you mind if I post it (both the pictures and the text) as a replication on Let's Replicate? We're just starting out and trying to give people a place to post their replications so they are not forever lost once the argument over their functionality dies.

Yours would be the first one on the Salt Battery/Crystal cell page if you accept.

Hello LetsReplicate,
Thanks, YES You can fix grammar and spread it far and wide its not secret. Tho, change the freezing temp to -38F and later in the sentence the out to output.

The nail points up in both P and N fabrication.

Making connection to the outer cap. Use a grinder or wire wheel to grind down the outside diameter oxide, back to bare copper. Then solder or use a hose clamp to make the connection.

The Wet cells worked best. Because they did not slowly degrade like the Epsoms and Rochell salts cell. They slowly stopped working for me in this application. The wet cells just had to be constantly topped off with water because of evaporation. Which could be fixed by enclosure.

I used absopure steam distilled drinking water. PH 7.8-8.0

I used simple propane torch for heating the copper caps.

I used Oxy-Propane and hi temp braze. To connect the copper electrodes together for the wet cell.

If anyone can improve on this please LET ME KNOW.

I haven't tried Ibpointless2 mix in one of these that may do it.

Dave

[LetsReplicate]

Hello LetsReplicate,
Thanks, YES You can fix grammar and spread it far and wide its not secret. Tho, change the freezing temp to -38F and later in the sentence the out to output.

The nail points up in both P and N fabrication.

Making connection to the outer cap. Use a grinder or wire wheel to grind down the outside diameter oxide, back to bare copper. Then solder or use a hose clamp to make the connection.

The Wet cells worked best. Because they did not slowly degrade like the Epsoms and Rochell salts cell. They slowly stopped working for me in this application. They just had to be constantly topped off with water because of evaporation. Which could be fixed by enclosure.

I used absopure steam distilled drinking water. PH 7.8-8.0

I used simple propane torch for heating the copper caps.

I used Oxy-Propane and hi temp braze. To connect the copper electrodes together for the wet cell.

If anyone can improve on this please LET ME KNOW.

I haven't tried Ibpointless2 mix in one of these that may do it.

Dave

Posted, : Black Copper Oxide/Red Copper Oxide;Epsom/Rochelle Cell by Dave Cahoon | Let's Replicate Free-Energy, Overunity, and Tesla Devices

Text editing was done by Diana Lehua, our head of web design. If you'd like to edit or add to your replication you can join the site and we'll make you the author of page so you can edit it however you like.

One observation I noticed while making cells is that the Salt substitute will strip the oxide off of the copper when it's with boiling water. Alum still contains potassium though, so you shouldn't be missing anything if you don't use the substitute.

@ibpointless2

The new video about the big cells is very helpful (Diana Lehua has talked about making one ), thank you for making it, would you be able to film a bit of when you're spreading the glue on the can cell? You talk about it being gel-like but that concept is hard to unless people can see it. I'd love to embed the 2 videos, with a step by step write up (that I will write from your instructions in the video) as a construction method, if that agreeable with you of course.

[dllabarre]

How to Make Big Blue Crystal Glue Cell - YouTube

Thank you!!

[jehdds]

Guys,
Here is the latest installment of the desiccant tests. Note the video shows 60 hour test, the 168 hour test was the same.
ZnO Cell Extended Desiccant Dwell.mov - YouTube
Very Best Regards,
Jim

[NickZ]

Thank you for that last test results. So, it looks like what you are seeing is that without water there is little or no current output, at least with that type of cell.