Bedini Earth Light

[FrozenWaterLab]

One Technique I found that makes lovely fine particulate Mg is a Emory Mesh Type sheet that they use for Drywall sanding. Take a block of Magnesium to that over a piece of paper and the mesh size openings that allow gypsum dust not to clog the material allows the magnesium to drop on to the paper.
Just a hint.
Very Best Regards,
Jim

Tnks Jim can do.

[mikrovolt]

modification Hutchison Power Cell by John Bedini

The Instructions for modification of John Hutchison's Power Cell by John Bedini.
This is the link to post # 2565, You can print this page:
http://www.energeticforum.com/177437-post2565.html

Hope to hear more discussion and details about successful replications.

[ibpointless2]

Ibpointlass,
I guess you could say allot of things have a crystal structure, I have casted (not a word except here) metals that have crystalline structures. Rocks and minerals defiantly have them until changed buy heat, but that is not the point here. My interests is in how much water can they hold and for how long, I find no way that this group can even make the Marcus Reid cell because of the mixtures and you would not be happy with the current of the cell between 1 to 2 Ma.

However you can make what I'm talking about with a good Hydrate and a Heptahydrate and it is a crystal cell when heated but one that will let you use water for current if you need it. The only crystal that has sparked my interest is Tourmaline powder very electrical and you can make use of this in the cells with a Hydrate # 5.

So two things Rochelle Salts and Tourmaline. So maybe my definition of a Crystal cell is much different then yours as I want to use a crystal structure to use the water without eating up the negative electrode and that is the direction I'm going in, more like a crystal fuel cell with current because of the water. Why do I want the Hydrate, because it can lock up the water in the Crystal and when it runs out a little moisture will do the job again and again.

As for the glue cell you have answered your own question if you need current a drop of water will not help so your limited in what you can do. Water is the key even in your own cells without it you can not make the electricity to fire your nerves and you die. Holding potential voltage is one thing but to have current is another and you need it.

My Magnesium is not eating away like everybody thinks, the same as Marcus Reid cells it's almost at the same rate. The only difference is Marcus Reids cell will eat away if the seal is broken as his water is locked into the structure of his cell. I on the other hand want a cell that can be activated when I want it. So, yes mine is a crystal cell just waiting to be used at the time I want it.

I have already proved that I can run Transmitters off two Alum cells for days without any loss of the Magnesium electrodes and led's and motors, oscillators and so on. The mixture I'm working on is what is going to protect the Magnesium Electrode and nothing more. So yes that would be my definition of a Crystal Cell. Hydrates hold many secrets and the material they make up when cooked at the right temperature. You would be surprised at some of the materials that could be made using that chemical, hope I have put this to rest.
John B

Thank for the response. I too want a cell that uses water and doesn't corrode the metals away, this is the holly grail of cells. I know what you mean about the hydrates holding water in the lattice and I'm sure this is one of the reason why my cell works. Me using Glue is the same reason why Marcus Reid uses Wax, to protect it from the outside air. Don't get me wrong I do appreciate your work and I do buy the videos and books you make.

[plengo]

That is interesting the observation Bedini is making about the water on the cell and fuel cell.

I have two kinds of cells that behave in the opposite manners. One with Hydrates will hate air meaning, if I do not seal the cell very well it will die out as it evaporates its added water.

The other cell needs air and hates being sealed and those do not have the Hydrates.

My conclusions are inline with Bedini and Peter Lindemann about how lead acid batteries work as a fuel cell concerning the crystal cells we are making here. I really think the water is the "gas" that keeps things running and in same cases we are protecting the negative electrode and in other cases we are not which is visible by the corrosion effect.

I really think the secret lies in the way the cells internal crystal structure carries the water through its "veins" and causes the H20 to break apart and electrons be free for flowing (current). I think somehow in our case the H2+ is not in gas form because the electrolyte somehow holds it inside and later recombine the H2+ with O forming water again and the whole process repeats ad infinitum.

I can conclude that by simply noticing that some cells with excessive amounts of water (which should be perfect for corrosion) does not work in favor and actually kills the cell. Other cells that I made work in the exact opposite, more water, faster the corrosion process and faster it dies and breaks apart.

My latests cells which surrounds the Mg with lots of paper is a great example even when no water is added since it produces 1.7v at 300micro-amps and thats current flowing through dry paper?!!!! That makes no sense to me. Adding water improves it.

Fausto.

[Lidmotor]

Cell components

Thanks John and Chuck for the help.

I have the ALL the correct components for the "Gift" cell either on hand or ordered. Everybody who has hung around here on this thread for a long time should give this a try and see if we can build one. You can find all the pieces online or at local stores if you hunt around. Newcomers will probably make some small mistake trying to build this and that will lead to failure.

Most of us who have spent hundreds of hours working on this project know what to look for to distinguish this cell from a simple galvanic.

If this cell IS a "reactor" of sorts that uses water without sacrificing metal
----this is going to be a VERY spectacular.

Thanks John for the "Gift".

Lidmotor

[ibpointless2]

Last night I made my driest cell yet. I took a drinking straw and crimped one end and poured some salt substitute into it and inserted copper and magnesium electrodes in. No water was added. At first I was getting barely 30mV but when I squeezed the cell with my hand i saw a jump up to 300mV. So I figured pressure was key here so I grabbed my c-clamp and started to crush the cell and had it reach 900mV! I noticed the meter was acting like a load and was draining the cell so at 314mV i disconnected the cell from the meter and let it rest. When I reconnected the cell it has climbed back up to 600mV. So I then I let it rest some more and I was getting 950mV. Thinking this was a fluke i let it rest over night and i woke to find it was at 850mv, So it did go down a little but not much. So from what I learn from this I got some small copper tubing and crimped one end and pour some salt substitute into it and inserted the magnesium strip into it. I started crushing the copper tubing so that it can hold the pressure for me instead of using a c-clamp. Now the cell is reading 1.351v. The bad news is that I'm getting no amps. I do think this is some type of piezoelectric effect but usually piezoelectric never keeps giving you a constant voltage over time. piezoelectric usually gives a spike of voltage and that's it and not this constant voltage i'm getting.

[jehdds]

Last night I made my driest cell yet. I took a drinking straw and crimped one end and poured some salt substitute into it and inserted copper and magnesium electrodes in. No water was added. At first I was getting barely 30mV but when I squeezed the cell with my hand i saw a jump up to 300mV. So I figured pressure was key here so I grabbed my c-clamp and started to crush the cell and had it reach 900mV! I noticed the meter was acting like a load and was draining the cell so at 314mV i disconnected the cell from the meter and let it rest. When I reconnected the cell it has climbed back up to 600mV. So I then I let it rest some more and I was getting 950mV. Thinking this was a fluke i let it rest over night and i woke to find it was at 850mv, So it did go down a little but not much. So from what I learn from this I got some small copper tubing and crimped one end and pour some salt substitute into it and inserted the magnesium strip into it. I started crushing the copper tubing so that it can hold the pressure for me instead of using a c-clamp. Now the cell is reading 1.351v. The bad news is that I'm getting no amps. I do think this is some type of piezoelectric effect but usually piezoelectric never keeps giving you a constant voltage over time. piezoelectric usually gives a spike of voltage and that's it and not this constant voltage i'm getting.

Ib,
i have seen this effect as well especially when I used the rochelles mix with BatiO3. Here is a theory the closer the electrodes, the easier for ionic exchange. It is possible depending on the mix to increase current due to the moisture being traumatically being mobilized and perhaps redistributed to the still intact lattice in contact with the metals. Just a thought. It is an interesitng phenomenon. I have even seen this with what appears to be clear LiClO4 crystals that formed on bare magenesium that has been left alone.
Very Best Regards,
Jim

[John_Bedini]

Melted Alum

Yes I have experience the same thing with a melted Alum crystal. The one exception is when melted into a copper bowl with the magnesium and then adding water cold it instantly heats up to 165 degrees and radiates heat from the bowl at the same time it supplies about 9Ma of power. So we have just discovered how to get the radiated heat from the Crystal. It does not touch the magnesium or the copper. It was a good experiment it has showed us what crystals do when transformed.
John B

[John_Bedini]

The Crystal cell

Lidmotor,
Sorry for not answering right away. Take your time when your doing this, the timing of building this cell is very critical. Use a hot plate to do this as you can control the heat as you see the mixture start to go to a frosty white the mixture is just about ready as you only have seconds to get it poured into the box your going to use.

I have waited two seconds more then once and had to start over. So you must be quick. The important part is that you pour a small amount into the box and push the copper electrode into it forcing the copper to be covered. Once this is done you do the next batch and make sure that your paper towel is placed down on the first layer.

Then you pour the second back on top of that pushing the magnesium into it, it should be sticky wet, almost like wet clay. Chuck and I succeeded in using copper grains also, if you must use aluminum find the softest material you can otherwise use the magnesium grains, but they all work.

One other point use a stainless steel screw in the magnesium. Do not get discouraged if you think that the material is to wet it will dry out tacky and that is what you want. The cell will tell you when it needs to be hydrated. I have tested all the different types of Magnesium and the material that works the best is anode round with an iron rod in the center but I remove that.
John B

[area46241]

Alum crystal cells

Yes thankyou for the gift of the alum it has made for lots of fun experimenting and following along with this thread. so far when new for me my fire sticks wrapped with coffee filters and wound with bare copper wire have been putting out .1 amps when doused with alum water my best attempt so far and my night lights are all over the place now running on multiple crystal cells my one solid melt alum is a really good cell in a two inch copper pipe cap...sucker was seven bucks...but totally worth the expense hartley oscillator working well with two rolls of shack 30 guage bifilar bedini coil fires avramenko night light well...you guys rock

[Lidmotor]

Prep for the cell build

Lidmotor,
Sorry for not answering right away. Take your time when your doing this, the timing of building this cell is very critical. Use a hot plate to do this as you can control the heat as you see the mixture start to go to a frosty white the mixture is just about ready as you only have seconds to get it poured into the box your going to use.

I have waited two seconds more then once and had to start over. So you must be quick. The important part is that you pour a small amount into the box and push the copper electrode into it forcing the copper to be covered. Once this is done you do the next batch and make sure that your paper towel is placed down on the first layer.

Then you pour the second back on top of that pushing the magnesium into it, it should be sticky wet, almost like wet clay. Chuck and I succeeded in using copper grains also, if you must use aluminum find the softest material you can otherwise use the magnesium grains, but they all work.

One other point use a stainless steel screw in the magnesium. Do not get discouraged if you think that the material is to wet it will dry out tacky and that is what you want. The cell will tell you when it needs to be hydrated. I have tested all the different types of Magnesium and the material that works the best is anode round with an iron rod in the center but I remove that.
John B

Thanks John. Those tips on how to build this cell really help. Plengo is using that Mg anode rod and has had good luck with it also.
Amazon.com: Magnesium Extruded Rod 1/2" Diameter X 1 Foot: Industrial & Scientific

I am wondering about the plastic box to make the cell in. It has to be a plastic that will not melt. Tupperware ain't gunna work. I'll look around and find something.

I am pretty sure that I can make this cell if I am careful.

Lidmotor

[abdlquadri]

Radiant Oscillator circuit

Hi all,

I have been following this thread from the beginning as on looker gathering info for future replication when I have more time.

But I think I missed the schematic for the Radiant Oscillator circuit JB uses to run his crystall cells of low amps.

I will appreciate if anyone could put it to me.

Regards. Thanks

[mikrovolt]

Abdlquadri, The link to a video about that circuit can be found on the first post page 1 of this thread.

[ibpointless2]

Next day on the pressure cell with a copper tube that contains salt substitute that's been crushed and has magnesium ribbon in the center is at 1.405v @3uA. This power is not bad when you consider no water is added to the cell and its getting its power from pressure only. The copper tube is squeezed or crimped onto the salt substitute to create a permanent pressure on the cell.

From this experiment I assume that pressure affects some of the power we get from a cell. Some of our power could be said comes from pressure since the crystal are affected by pressure. Maybe a gravity wave of some sort will affect the cell or could be powering the cells? All I know is that applying pressure to salt substitute (potassium chloride) I can maintain a constant voltage for at least 2 days that is equal to amount of pressure applied. If constant pressure applied than constant voltage comes from the metals, no water is needed as the median.

[ibpointless2]

I also thought I would point out a control cell I made that is purely only sodium silicate (water glass) with copper and magnesium electrodes. This cell is fully dry and feels fragile like glass but after 2 days of drying out it is giving me 700mV. This just shows that sodium silicate does hold its own when dry. This cell was laid on a flat surface to make it dry faster and not much sodium silicate was used so that it would dry fast.


@John Bedini,

Will you be selling the big magnesium anodes or do you have a place online where we can get them? Thanks