Bedini Earth Light

[NickZ]

New low power circuit by Lasersaber for use with crystal cells.
Cheap easy to build Joule Ringer. Runs on 2uA! - YouTube

[Lidmotor]

Cells and Oscillators

New low power circuit by Lasersaber for use with crystal cells.
Cheap easy to build Joule Ringer. Runs on 2uA! - YouTube

@Nick
Look at the circuit diagram closely. Look familiar? It is not new. He has just made a variation of that very old circuit-----the blocking oscillator.
I like the simplicity of his design though. It is called a "dead bug" build because all the parts are sticking up in the air like a dead bug instead of neatly soldered in a circuit board. It is a fun way to build something.

@All
I built a different kind of low power oscillator today that I found here:


analog - Ultra low power/ simple flashing circuit - Electrical Engineering - Stack Exchange

I used the "1 cell LED driver" circuit that is in bold print about half way down the page.

It is just a simple two transistor and one inductor circuit but it works well on the crystal cell. The circuit runs as advertised.

@Jehdds
Jim I used an Avramenko plug diode arrangement on the "antenna runner" circuit.

@Plengo
I guess that I got the "self-watering" thing figured out because the cell I made (your copper cap/Mg idea) is still driving a pulse motor. I will have to make another one with the iron pyrite and depolarizer stuff.

@John & Chuck
My replication of your Hydrate cell is doing great. I just have to keep adding a little water to it every couple days to keep the power up. It will run this new Led oscillator circuit that I built today just fine.


Lidmotor

[NickZ]

Lidmotor:
I connected a volt meter to my outside ground connection, and then I take a reading between that outside ground an AC ground, and I get nothing. Yet, when I place an AV plug with an led on it, it lights up. Dimly of course, but it surprises me that the white 3. 6 volt led lights at all, with no current showing.
I'm still hoping to get these cells to work with the exciter types circuits, also. At least to see some of the effects.
Thanks for showing that it can be done, and that it needs at least 1.5v and 30 mA or higher current to work well.

NickZ

[plengo]

Fausto,
Again thank you for your great work.
Here is something I ran across I bet Lidmotor will find this interesting!
Iron Pyrites RF Oscillator.
Very best regards,
Jim
PS pyrite is reactive to water and has been noted to be a no no for structural aggregate constituent for structural slabs etc..... So what is negative in one use may provide a benefit for this use!
Molecular dynamics simulation of water in a contact with an iron pyrite FeS2 surface
Acid Mine Drainage, the Unseen Enemy

Step one: The pyrite oxidizes upon contact with air and water.

1) Fe+2 + 1/4 O2 + H+ --> Fe+3 +1/2 H2O

Step two: Iron oxidizes to ferric iron

2) FeS2 + 7/2 O2 + H2O --> 2SO4-2 + Fe+2 + 2H+

Step three: Precipitation occurs with ferric iron to ferric hydroxide.

3) Fe+3 + 3H2O --> Fe(OH)3 + 3H+

Step four: All combined to show a full formation of sulfuric acid

4) FeS2 + 15/4 O2 + 7/2 H2O --> 2H2SO4 + Fe(OH)3 4

thank you Jim. This info is precious.

Amazing how things are interconnected. Hopefully the water is consumed in a Way that it will not give its hidrogen to form sulfuric acid.

Im going to buy those paper ph measuring kits to see what s going on.

Fausto.

[John_Bedini]

I remember this circuit in the 60's

@ Lidmotor,
I remember this circuit in the 60's it was used to flash incandescent bulbs #47bulbs on a 6 volt dry batteries, the city used them to mark holes and ditches in the street.
We use to take them and combine them to flash several strings of lights.
This circuit has been around for years, it has been changed to flash Led's.

But if your looking for bright lights then the current must be used.
Led's take between 1 to 20 Ma to be bright. You can't get around that so the Crystal cell must be able to produce the current. The oscillators light the led's because of the peak voltage and current of induction as the transformer is switched. This is the basics of Solar lights. But Chuck has proved another point in one of the videos by using that to charge NICAD batteries to full with an SG circuit and running the led at the same time.
Those Crystal Cells Have had no water added and keep up a constant 10 Ma now for the last three months, we keep waiting for them to die. Just adding some more Data here.
John B

[jehdds]

Guys,
Here is a New Video and Recipe. I have been running a cylinder type cell for almost 5 weeks now sans water addition with a mix that is very close to what I show in this video, but more important is how I allowed the cell to form. Using a Magnetic field to perhaps induce an intrinsic stress to the lattice or perhaps bias the hydration within the lattice itself as it forms seems to make a BIG difference in current output capacity.
All thoughts welcome, and again, to give credit where credit is due,
Thank you John Bedini for tickling our minds by showing crystals forming around a magnet, as well Thank you Ron NextGen1967 for the input to try LiClO4 in the mix. I hope you have had time to try it as well.
Crystal Stress and Mag Field - YouTube
I just uploaded it so it may take a moment or two.
Very Best Regards,
Jim

[Lidmotor]

Old circuits

@ Lidmotor,
I remember this circuit in the 60's it was used to flash incandescent bulbs #47bulbs on a 6 volt dry batteries, the city used them to mark holes and ditches in the street.
We use to take them and combine them to flash several strings of lights.
This circuit has been around for years, it has been changed to flash Led's.

But if your looking for bright lights then the current must be used.
Led's take between 1 to 20 Ma to be bright. You can't get around that so the Crystal cell must be able to produce the current. The oscillators light the led's because of the peak voltage and current of induction as the transformer is switched. This is the basics of Solar lights. But Chuck has proved another point in one of the videos by using that to charge NICAD batteries to full with an SG circuit and running the led at the same time.
Those Crystal Cells Have had no water added and keep up a constant 10 Ma now for the last three months, we keep waiting for them to die. Just adding some more Data here.
John B

John--Thanks for that bit of history. The guy that posted that circuit said in the article that the circuit was very old and that the load used to be a bulb. If you are taliking about those old "construction zone" flashing yellow lights---I have one on the boat. I used it coming home from Hawaii back in 1974 to ward off big ships at sea. I hung it up in the rigging and as it twirled around it gave off a weird out of sequence flash rate that made the big ships either change course or actually stop to see what it was. It may have saved my life. I have had some near misses with those steel giants of the deep.

My take on the LED oscillator is to flash the LED bright enough but with a short burst and at a rate of about 70 to 100hz to keep the overall power consumption down. If you don't turn the LED on all the way you can save even more power. Bottom line is that it is a trade off. More light means more power just like you say.

If you are not adding water to your cells and they are staying at 20mA then I have done something wrong with my build. My cells will not do that.

Lidmotor

[John_Bedini]

Circuits

@ Lidmotor,
Yes I remember the two circuits posted there. The famous flip flop using a number 47 bulb with a six volt lantern battery and the circuit you posted.
The one that is very intriguing that My dad made I have not found yet. It used a 1.5 volt D battery and flashed 8 neon lights. The little double inductor wound over the top of the factory made one generated about 100v to a .5uf cap and it ran for years. Dad never did say what it was for but it was built at Rocketdyne in Semi Valley about 1957. It used a germanium pnp transistor. When we moved from Simi Valley it was still running on the same D cell, then it just mysteriously disappeared one day. I never did ask any questions about it after that. Dad had some funny Transistor circuits that he and the Physicist next door put together. It would be nice to generate the hundred volts to do that with. Eric Dollard has something very Interesting in post 991 that you should look at for you Plug
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...ollard-34.html

He keeps showing the group but as you can see they are all wound up in the math and not getting anywhere. If they would just do what he says everything would just work fine.
John B

[NickZ]

@ Jim:
After watching your last video it made me think about what would happen if two magnets were placed on both sides of the C/Mg cells, instead of on just one side as they are curing. That way the effect is happening between the two magnetic poles.
Will those cells add up in parallel as well as in series? Like two of your bigger cells placed in parallel to obtain 80 mAs or so? Also the question now is to see how long their higher output will last, and if the addition of the depolarizer will work as planed, with no oxidation on the Mg. or contamination of the carbon.
Nick

[NickZ]

@ John B:
In looking at how the D cell batteries can have 10 times more output than the AA size, when they are only 3 or 4 times bigger in size. That makes me think that cell size and geometry is still an important consideration in making our cells. Maybe they should be about the size of the D cell or bigger, if we want to see some real current, and cylindrical shaped as well. You think?

[ibpointless2]

@all

Everyone who made the concrete cells how are they doing? Do they still give voltage? Do the electrodes look like they're wanting to fall apart? Does adding water bring back the amps? Just curious, thanks.

[John_Bedini]

Size

@ John B:
In looking at how the D cell batteries can have 10 times more output than the AA size, when they are only 3 or 4 times bigger in size. That makes me think that cell size and geometry is still an important consideration in making our cells. Maybe they should be about the size of the D cell or bigger, if we want to see some real current, and cylindrical shaped as well. You think?

NickZ,
Yes I know that but what I want is to add water when I want to use them.
Maybe we should ask MonkeySea for the answer since he knows everything, just kidding. The geometry is important and the surface area and how the electrodes are shaped. You know that I would use carbon but that does become a galvanic cell. The black CuO does serve a purpose in the cell I'm working on.
It is really funny that all the groups pick up on what we are working on here and have bad things to say about all of us. I think MonkeySea should come and teach us how to make all this work with bleach. I never realized that he considers Aaron and me the same in his comments. Yes Sir, he should be teaching here. The truth of the matter is he does not have any answers to the crystal cell or anything that even works good .

Now back to your answer, if you remember I did a test with the Ibpointless2 cell and made the tooling for them. The truth of the matter is I did not use his mix, just in one cell. The other cells I added crushed Tourmaline and Mn2/O3 and that little cell just keep on going and it is 1/2 the size of the big one Chuck and I made. it stays at a continues 25 Ma without adding any water so yes Geometry is in the equation here. What is also important is the material used in the mixture and how much water you can lock up in the cell.

So yes Tell him to quit hiding and speak up if he knows better I for one would be glad to listen to his Poppycock about bleach and chemicals the eat the magnesium right up. The internet is vast and everything that is written down one day comes back to bit you.

Whose Team Are You On......

ibpointless202-06-2012, 07:05 AM
It seems Energetic forum is down, looks like Aaron forgot to pay his yearly domain name? Anyone else having trouble getting into energetic forum today?

The cell that Bedini makes are galvanic water batteries. They don't work unless they have water in them. He also sells these cells for $200 Crystal Water Battery

I don't even know why he even bothers with the other salt, all he needs to do is wrap the magnesium in a towel and just add some Epsom salt/water and you'll get the same effect. There's no need for the other salts he uses in his hydrate cell.

Seeing the latest video of him showing the Marcus Reid cell was very discouraging. The cell had corrosion on the bottom of it and bedini admitted that the cell used water. I'm starting to think the Reid cell is just a galvanic cell. I also know for a fact that john Hutchinson cells are also a fraud. I was looking of the data on the Hutchinson cell and it would loose voltage over time as it dried out. And the cell Hutchinson gave away on YouTube is just a joke, the cell doesn't work unless it has water in it. So far I've made 3 cells that don't need continuous water to run unlike these supposedly experts in the field of crystal cells.

I'm getting tired of bedini saying that we should not use magnesium ribbon because its not pure. The magnesium ribbon i use is 99.8% pure. The only reason why Bedini says to not use ribbon is because its thin and small and will show corrosion quicker than a slab of magnesium. Bedini also doesn't show or prove that the magnesium is not corroding all he says is that look its not black. I've done the test and watch magnesium corrode and it corrodes white not black. Bedini doesn't even weigh the magnesium to make sure its not loosing metal or anything he expects us to take his word. I've done the test where i put magnesium ribbon in water by itself with different salts, magnesium by itself will corrode because it reacts with the water. The magnesium release hydrogen and becomes magnesium oxide which is white and not black like bedini assumes.

At least I try to make cells that don't need water to run. I've got three, stove top cell, crystal glue cell, and now the pressure cell all of which don't need continuous water to get voltage. From what I've found is that you can get voltage with no water needed but to get amps you need water with salt in it. Pure distilled water won't give you much amps but once you add a salt to it you get a lot of amps. Water is only needed when you want amps, nature can supply the voltage for free.

sorry for the rant but it must be stated for future generations to see so they're not mislead
Then just say it to me right here and I told you it does not corode.
John B

[John_Bedini]

understood/ and expected from you

Well, Ibpointless2,
I can see now that you no nothing about the Marcus Reids cells as I have stated to you and others here that if you loose 1 to 2% of the electrode you would be dead by the time the electrode was gone. And yes you do need water to get the power. And yes you did see that little bit of corrosion as that is the reaction of the mixture when the cell is made. All these reactions stop after a time period.

If I have been asked to make kits, I do not see what it has to do with you, just filling a need for people to learn. Basically I'm tired of all the backstabbing in these groups, I have told you how I feel. First of all I do not think you understand what it really cost to make things, as you have your machine time and labor to do it and you must buy in bulk so you have a great out lay in dollars.

Just think about the chemicals and what they cost. And don't go telling people I don't need this or that as it is none of your business what I do.

I will say it again I was asked to make these kits available and I did, you could have done the same thing.

You want to say something then say it right here to me. You go around and get all the information for free from these groups like this and your tired of Me. What about Me? I have to listen about glue and honey and how good cheap magnesium is. You put up a few math equations to convince everybody that you know something about the impedance of the cells, ya you must because you have no current. I was asked to join this group where you?. And don't talk crap about Aaron not paying the fees for this board as the internet goes down all the time Pointless.

No, you put your Black Cape on, sneek over to another group to save the world and talk crap about John. What is it with you that is not understood with this type of work?. I don't use water, bull. You can't get around the water it's in the air you just think it's dry. So wear that Black Cape sneek around under a Pointless name, because you even hide that and talk crap about John, what are you afraid of somebody might know your real name.

My work has always been public and it shall stay that way, If you do not agree with what I'm doing your free to leave and go join Monkey Sea Monkey Do. You and others love to improve on work and then when it fails you blame me as if I don't know anything as you ignore everything I try to say.. I was here before you and will be hear after you, Backstabber and Crap talker you shall be known.
John B

[Lidmotor]

Eric Dollard

@ Lidmotor,
Yes I remember the two circuits posted there. The famous flip flop using a number 47 bulb with a six volt lantern battery and the circuit you posted.
The one that is very intriguing that My dad made I have not found yet. It used a 1.5 volt D battery and flashed 8 neon lights. The little double inductor wound over the top of the factory made one generated about 100v to a .5uf cap and it ran for years. Dad never did say what it was for but it was built at Rocketdyne in Semi Valley about 1957. It used a germanium pnp transistor. When we moved from Simi Valley it was still running on the same D cell, then it just mysteriously disappeared one day. I never did ask any questions about it after that. Dad had some funny Transistor circuits that he and the Physicist next door put together. It would be nice to generate the hundred volts to do that with. Eric Dollard has something very Interesting in post 991 that you should look at for you Plug
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...ollard-34.html

He keeps showing the group but as you can see they are all wound up in the math and not getting anywhere. If they would just do what he says everything would just work fine.
John B

I have been following the Eric Dollard thread and have tried to absorb as much as I can. The math and theory doesn't make any sense to me unfortunately. I have studdied post 992 and kinda sorta understand what he is doing there.

I have seen neon blinker circuits but I can't remember if any ran on a 1.5v battery or not.


Lidmotor

[blackchisel97]

@all

Everyone who made the concrete cells how are they doing? Do they still give voltage? Do the electrodes look like they're wanting to fall apart? Does adding water bring back the amps? Just curious, thanks.

I packed only one of my early concrete cells aka Bertha when moved and tested few days ago. She was made about the beginning of this thread. I can still run LED via oscillator (about 1.2V) but current is getting weaker after while. I didn't try using water. As far as I can see the electrodes are fine. If anyone is interested I can moist a bit and test again.

Thanks
V