Bedini Earth Light

[plengo]

@Allwest,

man I did a cell using your Mg enrolled on Cu but I also added activated carbon to the mix so that I can use it with a lot less water content and to my surprise the cell after dry is performing 10x more powerfully than all of my cells concerning current. Concerning voltage is not that much yet but it is increasing with time and so it is its current.

I am babled by this design since the copper is shorted to the magnesium and still produce power. I have no clue how this works.

I am using a tiny amount of alternative salt or salt substitute based on potassium, carbon activated and peroxide water very low level concentration and no extra water. The cell size is 1" high and the Mg is only 3/4 high and about 1/2 inch diameter.

Once reaction starts we have lots of Oxigen bubbling.

I will post a video very soon.

Fausto.

ps: using an Oscillator here is ideal since the voltage is usually at around .1v and .5v but current in my small cell is about 50ma constant and increasing as it dries. So overall the output usable power is greater than my other cells. The oscillator performs very well.

[Allwest]

Plengo,

Excellent, there are many more good surprises to come

Have you tried Lamp black instead of activated carbon?

Also to get more volts,

Wrap mag with copper wire
Leave a spiral out at the top
Paint copper with lamp black a little salt and moist
Place in a copper cap
Let the spiral touch the top of the copper cap

Add hydrogen peroxide to moisten and as you need more power

Best of luck

[Allwest]

@Allwest,

man I did a cell using your Mg enrolled on Cu but I also added activated carbon to the mix so that I can use it with a lot less water content and to my surprise the cell after dry is performing 10x more powerfully than all of my cells concerning current. Concerning voltage is not that much yet but it is increasing with time and so it is its current.

I am babled by this design since the copper is shorted to the magnesium and still produce power. I have no clue how this works.

I am using a tiny amount of alternative salt or salt substitute based on potassium, carbon activated and peroxide water very low level concentration and no extra water. The cell size is 1" high and the Mg is only 3/4 high and about 1/2 inch diameter.

Once reaction starts we have lots of Oxigen bubbling.

I will post a video very soon.

Fausto.

ps: using an Oscillator here is ideal since the voltage is usually at around .1v and .5v but current in my small cell is about 50ma constant and increasing as it dries. So overall the output usable power is greater than my other cells. The oscillator performs very well.

Also regarding Volts, this is what I am talking about with this cell being touchy

If it is that low, the cell is not fully formed yet, give it some time, or heat the copper on the Mag and place in liquid, you will have instant volts 1.60, and it should stay at 1.44 even when totally dry

Best of luck

[magnegenix]

Pressure battery not losing juice in water like a cap

@ibpointless2

Quick question about your latest video. I saw you discharge a capacitor in water, then you show that your pressure cell does not discharge in water and behaves differently.

That video shows comparing a capacitor to a pressure battery.

I was wondering, because I haven't tested this, what happens if you do the same test with a AA battery. I would expect that the AA would short out and run out of juice over time...but not immediately or within a couple of minutes.

What I don't know is how it would behave for the first 30 seconds or so, and wondered if that would be the same effect that you saw with your pressure battery.

Also, what happens if you leave your pressure battery for a long time in under the water, like 2-3 days or more?

[plengo]

I made a new cell last night using Allwest new geometry and mix but this time i removed the salt substitutes. They seem to catalyze the reaction to the point of eating (oxidizing) the Magnesium really fast.

Without the salts and still using Carbon and H202 (peroxide water) it works very well without (so far) signs of corrosion.

With the salts, Mg becomes a soft grayish-whiteish color that bubbles.

What is really interesting with this cell that I did is that the Mg and the Copper are shorted together and therefore the resistance of the cell is very, very low and also increases the current output as the load resistance decreases.

This, I think, is very important because this is making a cell very strong since its internal resistance is very low.

Now, how this amazing weird cell works by being 100% shorted is a mystery.

Fausto.

[ibpointless2]

@ibpointless2

Quick question about your latest video. I saw you discharge a capacitor in water, then you show that your pressure cell does not discharge in water and behaves differently.

That video shows comparing a capacitor to a pressure battery.

I was wondering, because I haven't tested this, what happens if you do the same test with a AA battery. I would expect that the AA would short out and run out of juice over time...but not immediately or within a couple of minutes.

What I don't know is how it would behave for the first 30 seconds or so, and wondered if that would be the same effect that you saw with your pressure battery.

Also, what happens if you leave your pressure battery for a long time in under the water, like 2-3 days or more?

The reason why I did this was that I work in the boat industry and I have seen boats get submerged. When the boat gets submerged so does the battery which gets shorted out by the lake or sea water and thus the battery goes bad. Yes a AA would short out over time but it depends on how conductive the water is. As for leaving cells in the water its not good, the salt substitute dissolves into the water and the metals corrode when exposed to water.

[ibpointless2]

I don’t know about you guys but I have seen something interesting that comes to corrosion of a cell. It always seems that the corrosion is at its strongest where the water meets the air. Everything under the water stays pretty strong but where it meets the water is where the electrodes break apart. This leads me to think that water plus oxygen in the air is the main reason for corrosion. If you have a open ended cell that allows water to evaporate you may run into corrosion problems much sooner. You need to have the metals protected from where the water meets the air and also keep the water from evaporating. The best way to do this is to pour cooking oil on top. Oil will float on top and won’t allow water to evaporate and the metals won’t corrode because the water meets the oil instead of air so the they stay protected.

[b_rads]

Mineral Oil

I don’t know about you guys but I have seen something interesting that comes to corrosion of a cell. It always seems that the corrosion is at its strongest where the water meets the air. Everything under the water stays pretty strong but where it meets the water is where the electrodes break apart. This leads me to think that water plus oxygen in the air is the main reason for corrosion. If you have a open ended cell that allows water to evaporate you may run into corrosion problems much sooner. You need to have the metals protected from where the water meets the air and also keep the water from evaporating. The best way to do this is to pour cooking oil on top. Oil will float on top and won’t allow water to evaporate and the metals won’t corrode because the water meets the oil instead of air so the they stay protected.

Back in March I replicated the Crow's Foot (gravity cell) and learned that mineral oil was used to slow the evaporation of water. Since that time, I have been using this oil in my water batteries. Mineral Oil is a dielectric used in transformers and high voltage switches today. It does not conduct electricity and functions to displace water and air. Another thing I learned was to use insulated solid wire to connect the electrodes with below the oil and surface above the oil for connections. Additionally I use glue where the insulation is stripped from the wire to further seal from air leaks.
I prefer to use zinc for my negative electrode for several reasons. Abundance, easy to melt and shape to my designs, plus it has more electric potential than most other negative metals. It is a slow release, therefore, optimal circuits should be used. My local mechanic gives me all the used wheel weights I need and with my butane torch, I can easily melt these and form into rods, sheets, and plugs. You can also use U.S pennies post 1982. 25 pennies will make a fairly beefy electrode.
For great fun, set 3 medium sized cells in series in the sun and watch the power increase. The oil has a prismatic or fresnal effect and heats up the metals really well. I use these for charging secondary batteries and it works better than the cheap solar yard lights.
Very nice observation Ib, I have been doing this for several months now and am very happy with the results. I will not go so far as to say it completely stops the consumption of the metal, but it does have tremendous benefits.
Good luck guys,
Brad

[Allwest]

I don’t know about you guys but I have seen something interesting that comes to corrosion of a cell. It always seems that the corrosion is at its strongest where the water meets the air. Everything under the water stays pretty strong but where it meets the water is where the electrodes break apart. This leads me to think that water plus oxygen in the air is the main reason for corrosion. If you have a open ended cell that allows water to evaporate you may run into corrosion problems much sooner. You need to have the metals protected from where the water meets the air and also keep the water from evaporating. The best way to do this is to pour cooking oil on top. Oil will float on top and won’t allow water to evaporate and the metals won’t corrode because the water meets the oil instead of air so the they stay protected.

Very good observation, and very relevant

On the cell I am working on, the top of the mag gets mushy, because it has no contact with the copper, and the air also may have something to do with it also, although I submerge these types of cells totally under water most of the time

I have tried coating the top with crazy glue, and this seems to work fairly well

I have also poured in a thin layer of power steering fluid, and this seems to help with evaporation of the water and H2O2

Best of luck

[Allwest]

Hi Plengo, este vídeo mostra um vórtice criado pelos gases na espiral de cobre, não há muitas surpresas para esta nova célula

Allwest Power cell, new cell - YouTube

Best of luck

[ibpointless2]

I’ve bought some tools to measure the cells i make. I’ve decided that i can’t just state something is corroding without backing up some data with it. I can’t just say that visually it's not corroding but instead i must supply proof that it's not. So I use magnesium ribbon since its already thin and easy to corrode and I measure it in different electrolyte and its also being shorted out with a copper wire too. Each day i measure the thickness of the ribbon to see if its decaying. Sometimes a tool is not needed to see the decay, some ribbon falls apart. I’ve seen alum and water decay and fall apart and also salt sub, epsom salt water decay magnesium too. The ones that fall apart and decay are the destructive decay. But with some of the cells i have i seen the opposite of destructive decay, i seen some additive decay. Some of the magnesium builds up a small layer which makes it addictive. This additive doesn’t fall apart but instead builds up a new layer on top of the metal. I have measure this many times with my digital caliper and I can tell that some of the metals in some electrolyte are additive and not destructive. This would make since, everything in nature has its counterpart where you have destructive you must have additive to balance it out.

Bedini and Chuck have a new video out. I must say the use of a new lead acid battery is a good idea.
New Crystal Batteries20 John Bedini and Chuck Hupp - YouTube

[Allwest]

I’ve bought some tools to measure the cells i make. I’ve decided that i can’t just state something is corroding without backing up some data with it. I can’t just say that visually it's not corroding but instead i must supply proof that it's not. So I use magnesium ribbon since its already thin and easy to corrode and I measure it in different electrolyte and its also being shorted out with a copper wire too. Each day i measure the thickness of the ribbon to see if its decaying. Sometimes a tool is not needed to see the decay, some ribbon falls apart. I’ve seen alum and water decay and fall apart and also salt sub, epsom salt water decay magnesium too. The ones that fall apart and decay are the destructive decay. But with some of the cells i have i seen the opposite of destructive decay, i seen some additive decay. Some of the magnesium builds up a small layer which makes it addictive. This additive doesn’t fall apart but instead builds up a new layer on top of the metal. I have measure this many times with my digital caliper and I can tell that some of the metals in some electrolyte are additive and not destructive. This would make since, everything in nature has its counterpart where you have destructive you must have additive to balance it out.

Bedini and Chuck have a new video out. I must say the use of a new lead acid battery is a good idea.
New Crystal Batteries20 John Bedini and Chuck Hupp - YouTube

IB,

Yes, very interesting what Chuck and John are doing with the lead acid battery

I did not catch any readings on the crystal cells, did you ?

John stated that the cells have been running for two years, ....... I looked back 2 years on his videos

Chaîne de Energenx - YouTube

And could only find work on crystal cells less than a year old , he was working on the rotating ironless magnetic motor back then

Do you know of any info on the 2 year old cell?

Best of luck

Do you have any

[ibpointless2]

I played with the idea of using a empty lead acid battery and i filled it with my mix. here is the video. Big Crystal Cell from new lead acid battery with no acid - YouTube

[Nick_Z]

Guys:
This is a previous post (below) that I made a while back, I just wanted to follow up on it, and show a new video that I made last night.
The last "dry carbon/sand cell" in the previous video has gotten a few drops of water for the first time about two months ago, and is now still reading 1v, 30mA. That cell is now about a year old.

Quote from a Previous post:

It would certainly be nice to see John B make a come back to this thread. Maybe he'll find the time to join us again, I hope so.

After seeing Slider's last video, I pulled out some my cells, that I have stashed away for those light outage moments. Although some of them are in various stages of oxidation, there is one in particular that is not oxidized at all. It is one of my capacitor can cells, one that has only activated carbon, a carbon rod, and is sealed on top with white glue. That cell is 3/4 inch by 1.5 inches, it has never seen a drop of water. It reads still having about 3/4 volt, and one or two mA, now months old, maybe even almost a year old. It would certainly light one of those penny oscillators, fairly brightly, but does not do much on my oscillators, just a slight lighting of the led. I just thought to mention this, for those wondering what happens to totally dry, no salt cells, after some months, or a year or so. Well, the answer is- Nothing happens. Of course if I add a few drops of water, it probably would show about 1 volt, 10mAs, or higher output. But, this is a dry no water cell, and will stay that way. A dozen or so of these cells will produce about 12 volts, but still only a couple of mAs.

Here's a short video that I made, showing my Exciter circuit working with NO battery connected, just the capacitive link between my stray house wiring AC. I also show the circuit running on just 0. 75v from a older Carbon/Al cell, which is showing a wireless output of several inches away from the Exciter coil.
Video:
Exciter circuit running on NO battery. - YouTube


Todays post:
My newest Exciter coil circuit (one inch coil) just made last night:
Tiny Exciter coil circuit lighting CFL bulbs - YouTube

Nick_Z

[ibpointless2]

IB,

Yes, very interesting what Chuck and John are doing with the lead acid battery

I did not catch any readings on the crystal cells, did you ?

John stated that the cells have been running for two years, ....... I looked back 2 years on his videos

Chaîne de Energenx - YouTube

And could only find work on crystal cells less than a year old , he was working on the rotating ironless magnetic motor back then

Do you know of any info on the 2 year old cell?

Best of luck

Do you have any

I was thinking the same thing too. 2 years ago he was just getting his feet wet in making lasersabers air battery. In the video where he says that the cell been running for 2 years is the crystal lamp kit he introduced 7 months ago in this video. Crystal Battery table lamp kit. - YouTube
He also doesn't mention alum until Feb 9 2011 in this video Earth Lights 5 - YouTube
It looks like the same green light in both. I would say that cell has been only running for one year at the most. You'll also notice that the alum has turned yellowish but white clumps surround the magnesium. Those white clumps look like magnesium salts which form when the magnesium corrodes away.

It is odd I must say.