help with my first Bedini SSG circuit

[cheese]

Hi Neight,
I have a feeling that the resistance being too low isn't the problem because its still self occilating with out resistance. Do you think the occilation could be caused by the coil being too small or the magnets too weak?

-Cheese

[blackchisel97]

Hello again,
The current progress is that my coil is pretty small, however I got the 12 volt batteries, the coil is occilating at such a low frequency that you can feel a magnet vibrate if you put it next to the coil when there is no potentiometer or resistor. I was under the impression that the circut was occilating because I didn't have enough resistance, do I need more instead of less?

Sincerely,
Cheese

You need to have adjustable resistor between your trigger wire and transistor base. SSG wont work with couple Ohms worth of wire in your coil. Do you have basic schematics of SSG? I was under impression that you can hear high pitch sound from coil which would suggest self oscillating due to the resistance/ potentiometer set too high. How big is you coil? (how many feet and what size wire).


Vtech

[Neight]

how long is the wire you used on your coil, or how many turns did you wind on it?

if it is too long it could self oscillate due to it's own high resistance. I don't think it will self oscillate with too short a coil wire, though i could be wrong on that.

there is a lot to balance on these if you don't follow the instructions. using ceramic magnets is best and make sure you have your coil wired correctly to the circuit. make sure your magnets are pointing north out. make sure you have the right number of turn on your coil, and i would use some resistance, none could cause some trouble for you

[cheese]

Blackchisel97,
I know that I need an adjustable resistor, however I kept lowering the resistance until there was no resistance left and it was still self occilating. My coil is actually pretty small because of a mistake made earlier it's only around 300 turns around the core. Do you think it could be occilating because of the coil. And I do have the SSG schematic but used introvertebrate instructions.

Sincerely,
Cheese

[blackchisel97]

cheese If your core is about 5/8" - 3/4" then (depending of wire used) 300 turns may equal to 65-70' of wire. This may be a problem. You need at least 50% more to get this working right. I never worked with coil shorter then 100' and my SSG's had 450 - 600 turns. I even had one with 1400 but only because I didn't want to cut the wire. This was too much but it worked.
I'm not familiar with introvertebrate circuit but they should be correct.
Vibration in coil suggest that everything is connected right but you may either need stronger magnets or bigger coil. I would start with coil first. Do you have any more wire you could solder to the coil and wind more?


Vtech

[cheese]

Blackchisel97,
Yes I do have more wire. My last coil I got rid of had 900 turns. I have new wire and tomorrow I am going to add 600 more turns to the coil 300 turn coil I have now. Unfortunately, I can not do it today. Thank you for your advice, I'm excited to see how it turns out tomorrow.

Sincerely,
Cheese

[blackchisel97]

Blackchisel97,
Yes I do have more wire. My last coil I got rid of had 900 turns. I have new wire and tomorrow I am going to add 600 more turns to the coil 300 turn coil I have now. Unfortunately, I can not do it today. Thank you for your advice, I'm excited to see how it turns out tomorrow.

Sincerely,
Cheese

Is there a chance that you could post a picture of your setup? It will be easier to advise you further. Tomorrow it will run


Vtech

[cheese]

Thank you,
I'll get you a picture of the setup tomorrow.

[ZeropointEnergy]

thanks

Tuning Try to have your pot and series resistor rated at 1-2W if possible. With everything connected right and 680 Ohm resistor this should spin. It may need more precised tuning but it should run.
Having a scope is a blessing but simple LED strobe light (as described in one of my youtube's) or AM radio will help. You'll need an A meter in series with your input too. The aim is to find a spot when you'll have a single pulses on the scope or single chirping in the radio. When adjusting pot from higher towards lower resistance you'll hit the spot when input current will slightly drop and rotor will speed up at the same time. When you stop and restart your rotor it will have a triple pulse which will change into single once it stabilizes. You may try to find a range of its operation and observe the speed as well as current. Sometimes it happens that there is more than one spot like that but one will be "clearer" and therefore it is referred as a "sweet" or "vanilla" spot.

Vtech

Thanks for the vid update Neight.[/QUOTE]


Hey Blackchisel,

I was using your video then to tune my SSG i had been running it between 150-190mA and LOL I found that with resistor/LED hooked in series with trigger coil the extra pulses went away on the rotor at 200mA. The rotor went from 5 lines to 3 lines then a smoothed out with lines going dissapearing and looked like your youtube clip.
Stopping and starting the SSG to unsure the lines smooth out when come up to speed as you suggested and was about 200mA still.
I'm happy with the set up now and hope I see the improved results in COP tests i'm performing now, just the joy of getting the circuit working I thought I could tune by ear and analog ammeter, glad I watched your video and done it properly.

I have question though, how do I convert the hertz reading to RPM on the SSG??? (still need laser tachometer) As the the figures of 144 Hz = 8000 RPM when I first done the 1 Ohm test ( is 200-240Hz with battery ) can not be accurate, I would believe 500-800 RPM when charging the battery.

Thanks again for the youtube clip was of great help.

Regards
Zero

[ZeropointEnergy]

Keep it up Cheese

Hey Cheese.

Post a pic will make it easier for all to trouble shoot for you and I'm interested how your set up looks, like rotor/magnet size, dimentions of coil and its connections to the circuit.


Regards
Zero

[blackchisel97]

Tuning Try to have your pot and series resistor rated at 1-2W if possible. With everything connected right and 680 Ohm resistor this should spin. It may need more precised tuning but it should run.
Having a scope is a blessing but simple LED strobe light (as described in one of my youtube's) or AM radio will help. You'll need an A meter in series with your input too. The aim is to find a spot when you'll have a single pulses on the scope or single chirping in the radio. When adjusting pot from higher towards lower resistance you'll hit the spot when input current will slightly drop and rotor will speed up at the same time. When you stop and restart your rotor it will have a triple pulse which will change into single once it stabilizes. You may try to find a range of its operation and observe the speed as well as current. Sometimes it happens that there is more than one spot like that but one will be "clearer" and therefore it is referred as a "sweet" or "vanilla" spot.

Vtech

Thanks for the vid update Neight.

Hey Blackchisel,

I was using your video then to tune my SSG i had been running it between 150-190mA and LOL I found that with resistor/LED hooked in series with trigger coil?? the extra pulses went away on the rotor at 200mA. The rotor went from 5 lines to 3 lines then a smoothed out with lines going dissapearing and looked like your youtube clip.
Stopping and starting the SSG to unsure the lines smooth out when come up to speed as you suggested and was about 200mA still.
I'm happy with the set up now and hope I see the improved results in COP tests i'm performing now, just the joy of getting the circuit working I thought I could tune by ear and analog ammeter, glad I watched your video and done it properly.

I have question though, how do I convert the hertz reading to RPM on the SSG??? (still need laser tachometer) As the the figures of 144 Hz = 8000 RPM when I first done the 1 Ohm test ( is 200-240Hz with battery ) can not be accurate, I would believe 500-800 RPM when charging the battery.

Thanks again for the youtube clip was of great help.

Regards
Zero[/QUOTE]

Not in series but across the trigger coil in other words in parallel with trigger wires. When you put LED and 200 - 300Ohm in series with trigger you're restricting current flow by introducing extra resistance.

You can get inexpensive digital rpm meter on eBay.

RPM means "rotations per minute" while Heartz is number cycles per second. So, rotor with one magnet going @60 rpm would be triggering coil @ 1Hz. Rotor with 6 magnets going the same speed will trigger @ 6Hz.
If you have let say 240Hz measured on the coil and rotor with 6 magnets then your rpm is 2,400, from 240Hz X 60sec : 6magnets = 2,400rpm.
You have to remember what triggers your SSG. What you have is referred to as mpm or mps - magnets per min. or per sec. Bicycle wheel with 18 magnets rotating @ 200rpm triggers coil at - 200rpm : 60 X 18 = 60Hz


Vtech

[ZeropointEnergy]

was parallel with trigger wires

Hey Blackchisel,

I was using your video then to tune my SSG i had been running it between 150-190mA and LOL I found that with resistor/LED hooked in series with trigger coil?? the extra pulses went away on the rotor at 200mA. The rotor went from 5 lines to 3 lines then a smoothed out with lines going dissapearing and looked like your youtube clip.
Stopping and starting the SSG to unsure the lines smooth out when come up to speed as you suggested and was about 200mA still.
I'm happy with the set up now and hope I see the improved results in COP tests i'm performing now, just the joy of getting the circuit working I thought I could tune by ear and analog ammeter, glad I watched your video and done it properly.

I have question though, how do I convert the hertz reading to RPM on the SSG??? (still need laser tachometer) As the the figures of 144 Hz = 8000 RPM when I first done the 1 Ohm test ( is 200-240Hz with battery ) can not be accurate, I would believe 500-800 RPM when charging the battery.

Thanks again for the youtube clip was of great help.

Regards
Zero

Not in series but across the trigger coil in other words in parallel with trigger wires. When you put LED and 200 - 300Ohm in series with trigger you're restricting current flow by introducing extra resistance.

You can get inexpensive digital rpm meter on eBay.

RPM means "rotations per minute" while Heartz is number cycles per second. So, rotor with one magnet going @60 rpm would be triggering coil @ 1Hz. Rotor with 6 magnets going the same speed will trigger @ 6Hz.
If you have let say 240Hz measured on the coil and rotor with 6 magnets then your rpm is 2,400, from 240Hz X 60sec : 6magnets = 2,400rpm.
You have to remember what triggers your SSG. What you have is referred to as mpm or mps - magnets per min. or per sec. Bicycle wheel with 18 magnets rotating @ 200rpm triggers coil at - 200rpm : 60 X 18 = 60Hz


Vtech[/QUOTE]


Hey,

I mistyped that and when I tested the light in the circuit with my panel ammeter hooked to the positive of the charging battery. ( read up on that to unsure correct COP testing ) And with LED in parallel the current input to the charging battery is 55-60mA, but uses 180mA from the primary battery.
I have been hooking up meter to verify current draw then remove it as they said in guide so the charging cycle isnt affected.
I need to change the tape colour on my rotor and will re-glue at the same time due to one pole was 3-4 degrees off 90 degree spacings.

The hertz is 264Hz across the trigger coil and therefore with 4 magnets on the rotor I calculate:

264 x 60 / 4 = 3960 RPM

This seems to fast for a little unit drawing 180mA, however I have rubber stoppers on the board and still has an abundant amount of vibration from the units power.

Finally I did note an anomaly with filming the tuning sequence?
As the Digital camera was close the the light at the front of the housing where the LED is taped on you can see broken lines as the SSG is tuned and comes up to speed ( the pulses were broken, uniform lines and was another great way to see the output trigger pulse. )
However, this only appears is the video as when you take picture the camera removes it ( maybe due to the HF of the pulse? ) but it did not matter if was in the light or the dark to see the anomoly on the digital camera.

I'll post a few pics of the tuning I do have great video footage of tuning in the dark but will need to edit it down to 3-4 mins.
I'm using a 33 Ohm/10W resistor for discharging tests there is a pic.

Regards
Zero

[ZeropointEnergy]

Anomoly

Hey Guys,


Here is the pic of the anomoly I mentioned a grabbed a snapshot from VLC player, enjoy.

Regards
Zero

[Neight]

quick update video

Hello all!
I think I finally have my first SSG demo box complete. it's taken me a while to get it to where I wanted it to be, and I have had a lot of help along the way.
I have posted a quick video of the finished product and it also has my 2nd motor running in it. the second one is a larger wheel with the ceramic magnets like the SSG plans call for. It runs really well, and charges great, so that should be some fun to play around with, plus lots of room to add more coils!

here is the link -
YouTube - All done with one.....again (I think....)

thanks for all the help and advice and thanks for watching!!
N8

[nafanja]

to Vtech

Tell me please what to do if i have the Neo-magnets.
You give suggestions do not use the Neos.
But i have it and I can't to bring back this to shop)))
May it's would be variant to play with a distance of coil(core) and magnet?

The compass nail is turn around. And i think that the coil and core is understand when make the collapse. I would like understand why the Neos don't give ability to make sharply the collapse and spark.