help with my first Bedini SSG circuit

[Neight]

Tell me please what to do if i have the Neo-magnets.
You give suggestions do not use the Neos.
But i have it and I can't to bring back this to shop)))
May it's would be variant to play with a distance of coil(core) and magnet?

The compass nail is turn around. And i think that the coil and core is understand when make the collapse. I would like understand why the Neos don't give ability to make sharply the collapse and spark.

you can use neo mags, but they are tougher to make work. they do give a sharp on off for the coil, but they have a very strong field and if they are too close to the core of the coil the pulse from the coil will not be enough to make the rotor spin past the core. on my wheel with neo mags I have to keep the coil at least .5 inch away from the magnets or i get a lot of drag from the attraction to the metal core. my rotor will spin anywhere from .25 inch to .75 inch from the coil, but .5 inch makes it run really smooth. on my big rotor that has ceramic magnets on it, i can get the coil right next to the magnets and it still runs great. less than a .25 inch and still not noticeable drag.
you also have to make sure your coil is wired to the circuit correctly. if you have it wired backwards, your rotor magnets will only attract to the core and will not pulse away.

make sure your coil is oriented correctly and make sure your magnets are also north facing out only. play with the distance to the coil some and play with the resistance also.
if you have any other questions, I will do my best to help you with some answers!

hope all this makes sense
N8

[nafanja]

Thank you Neight

I have may be a big Neo magnet (30-40-10 mm) but I have a distance near 0.5 inch.

As far as I am understand I may to play with a distance, right?

Now I would like to delete the Bolts and change on the welding roads. May be after this experiments I will play with a transformer steel or may be with amorphous ferro core (but it's a future). Now I paint the welding roads.

I make the experiment and look when I will put the bolt near the magnets the spinning stopping more than with the welding rodes. I don't know I am right or no, but I am come to conclusion that the bolt re-magnetizing slowly. If I don't correct - correct me please.

My too coils a little warm and have resistance near 24 Ohm that is the 2.5 or 3 Volt loose at the coil and transistors. I plan to change the wound for 0.5 or 0.6 mm diameter.

Interesting to know what will be with a ferrite rodes?

I have a questing, why people tell that the cap pulser is a positive energy? As I am understand, the battery and the cap is connecting via the Plus where is go the radiant charge?

[Neight]

I have may be a big Neo magnet (30-40-10 mm) but I have a distance near 0.5 inch.

As far as I am understand I may to play with a distance, right?

Now I would like to delete the Bolts and change on the welding roads. May be after this experiments I will play with a transformer steel or may be with amorphous ferro core (but it's a future). Now I paint the welding roads.

I make the experiment and look when I will put the bolt near the magnets the spinning stopping more than with the welding rodes. I don't know I am right or no, but I am come to conclusion that the bolt re-magnetizing slowly. If I don't correct - correct me please.

My too coils a little warm and have resistance near 24 Ohm that is the 2.5 or 3 Volt loose at the coil and transistors. I plan to change the wound for 0.5 or 0.6 mm diameter.

Interesting to know what will be with a ferrite rodes?

I have a questing, why people tell that the cap pulser is a positive energy? As I am understand, the battery and the cap is connecting via the Plus where is go the radiant charge?

it sounds like your neo magnets might be too big for this kind of motor. the magnets I am using are only 1/2"(diameter) x 1/4"(depth) (12.7mmx6.35mm) cylinder magnets. they work, but as I stated in my last post, I have to keep the core about 1/2" away from the magnets for it to run smooth without a lot of drag.
also it sounds like you have a lot of resistance in your coil, which also will keep it from working, as the coil will start to self oscillate and will not drive the rotor.
try finding some smaller magnets to use, it sounds to me like what you are using will only attract to the core of the coil and the coil will not pulse strong enough to overcome that and push the rotor magnets away.

what wire gauge and how many turns do you have on your coil? measure the resistance of both the trigger wire and the power wire and let me know what you come up with. you might need a length of wire on your coil to bring the resistance down some. resistance on your power coil should be in the 4-6 ohm range for it to work properly. (the power coil should be the bigger gauge wire, and the trigger coil should be the thinner gauge)

hope this makes sense and helps!
N8

[nafanja]

Thank you

I have the ware near 0.25 mm in diameter.
The Pare is show me the 24 Ohm resistance.
Now I plan to buy 0.5 or 0.6 mm ware for power coil.
The bolt and coils is a little warm. It's disturb me. Resistance too.

As I watch the Youtube video - there people have a 1000 RPM and more.
I don't know the speed of the SSG Bedini from video ENERGY of the VACUUM (bicicle rotor/part), but I have just 3 RPSecond with 15 transistors (two coils 6 + 7 transistors 2N3055 and Soviet analog). But the one transistor ( my first runs) and one power coil have 1 round per second. I think that bicicle rotor must run more quickly than 3 RPSecond with 15 transistors, isn't it?

I am agree that I may have the incorrect wounding. But I wwill make under PANACEA BOCAF and Aron instruction here.

But general probleme - I can't to charge the battery more than 11.6 Volts. I can make it just with a Cap Pulser with a dead battery.

I am shure - your recomendations will give the result.

[ZeropointEnergy]

Rpm

I have the ware near 0.25 mm in diameter.
The Pare is show me the 24 Ohm resistance.
Now I plan to buy 0.5 or 0.6 mm ware for power coil.
The bolt and coils is a little warm. It's disturb me. Resistance too.

As I watch the Youtube video - there people have a 1000 RPM and more.
I don't know the speed of the SSG Bedini from video ENERGY of the VACUUM (bicicle rotor/part), but I have just 3 RPSecond with 15 transistors (two coils 6 + 7 transistors 2N3055 and Soviet analog). But the one transistor ( my first runs) and one power coil have 1 round per second. I think that bicicle rotor must run more quickly than 3 RPSecond with 15 transistors, isn't it?

I am agree that I may have the incorrect wounding. But I wwill make under PANACEA BOCAF and Aron instruction here.

But general probleme - I can't to charge the battery more than 11.6 Volts. I can make it just with a Cap Pulser with a dead battery.

I am shure - your recomendations will give the result.

Hey,

If the bolt and coil is getting hot sounds like a dead short from the battery even though it charges.
The resistance is too high I agree with N8 and when you rewind coil and make sure 650+ turns bifilar with 0.5mm power coil added this and add smaller magnets should solve your problems.
I had that problem with dead battery I was trying to revieve and the neon would light up and blow components, thus didnt try that for long

I have been obtaining 2000-3000 RPM on my SSG between 160-350mA if was using bigger than 12V/7aH batteries would pump more in to see max RPM.
Bike wheel will do at best 400 RPM from what have seen online and that was the reason I used a smaller rotor to obtain faster RPM

Regards
Zero

[ZeropointEnergy]

Bedini Monopole group

Hey People,

I was wondering if anyone has joined the Bedini yahoo group?
I started doing all the tests from the PDF file I downloaded and
thought I should join and post up data when complete my 20
charge cycles.

I will make sure I check this post N8, Blackchisel you guys
helped me for posting valuable information here and I'll try
to return that knowledge as I obtain more about the SSG.

N8, I checked out your link of the new SSG housing you
constructed is practical, neat and all contained nice job.

Regards
Zero

[ZeropointEnergy]

Radiant Pulses

Hey,

I mentioned the pulses visible on the digital camera I noticed when
filming at the start of May. I have investigated the relationship between
the trigger coils signal from the LED, the conclusion was that the pulses
were visible on camera when the LED is in frame, very weird.

I did not get any response so either it is common or maybe you missed that one N8.
Latest clip I took at 2500 RPM shows 8 pulses per line in the frame, last week at about 1500 RPM the lines were solid,
not 8 individual pulses per line.

My question is do you guys agree that this shows the eight pulses per line is representing two pulses per four magnets in the rotor?
I have my theories and nice footage of the anomoly, but I'm interested in what others think on the pulses

Here is clip of it: YouTube - ‪Dans Bedini SSG Motor/Energizer Trigger Pulses 15-5-2011.AVI‬‏

Regards
Zero

[blackchisel97]

Hey,

I mentioned the pulses visible on the digital camera I noticed when
filming at the start of May. I have investigated the relationship between
the trigger coils signal from the LED, the conclusion was that the pulses
were visible on camera when the LED is in frame, very weird.

I did not get any response so either it is common or maybe you missed that one N8.
Latest clip I took at 2500 RPM shows 8 pulses per line in the frame, last week at about 1500 RPM the lines were solid,
not 8 individual pulses per line.

My question is do you guys agree that this shows the eight pulses per line is representing two pulses per four magnets in the rotor?
I have my theories and nice footage of the anomaly, but I'm interested in what others think on the pulses

Regards
Zero

Interesting observation. I did notice the same while filming devices with pulsing LED's.


V

[Neight]

Hey,

I mentioned the pulses visible on the digital camera I noticed when
filming at the start of May. I have investigated the relationship between
the trigger coils signal from the LED, the conclusion was that the pulses
were visible on camera when the LED is in frame, very weird.

I did not get any response so either it is common or maybe you missed that one N8.
Latest clip I took at 2500 RPM shows 8 pulses per line in the frame, last week at about 1500 RPM the lines were solid,
not 8 individual pulses per line.

My question is do you guys agree that this shows the eight pulses per line is representing two pulses per four magnets in the rotor?
I have my theories and nice footage of the anomoly, but I'm interested in what others think on the pulses

Regards
Zero

Hey Zero,
I actually was hopping someone else knew the answer and would jump in. I can only hazard a guess. The LED is flashing at a pretty high rate, and the camera should have a set FPM (frames per minute) rate that it runs at. I am guessing that what you see in the video is actually the pulsed light from the LED, and it is spread out over the screen because of the frame-rate of the camera. in some videos I have watched, you can't even see the LED blinking at all on camera due to the LED blinking between the frames of the video. video cameras are essentially just high speed still cameras and if the LED is pulsing at a rate close to the FPS of the camera it can make some odd effects.
I would say that your SSG's RPM in that video is the same as the FPS of the camera. so you can see each pulse of the LED of 1 round of the rotor in each frame. if that makes any sense

thanks for checking out my video! I am pretty happy with that box, though I keep finding new things I would like to do with it. I should set it aside and just let it run, and get onto more serious building and testing

I am also on the monopole yahoo group and going to go through the 20 cycles. it's a great group and I have gotten some good advice over there as well!

hope everything here makes sense, and that my guess is correct and hasn't misled anyone
N8

[ZeropointEnergy]

Agree

Hey Zero,
I actually was hopping someone else knew the answer and would jump in. I can only hazard a guess. The LED is flashing at a pretty high rate, and the camera should have a set FPM (frames per minute) rate that it runs at. I am guessing that what you see in the video is actually the pulsed light from the LED, and it is spread out over the screen because of the frame-rate of the camera. in some videos I have watched, you can't even see the LED blinking at all on camera due to the LED blinking between the frames of the video. video cameras are essentially just high speed still cameras and if the LED is pulsing at a rate close to the FPS of the camera it can make some odd effects.
I would say that your SSG's RPM in that video is the same as the FPS of the camera. so you can see each pulse of the LED of 1 round of the rotor in each frame. if that makes any sense

thanks for checking out my video! I am pretty happy with that box, though I keep finding new things I would like to do with it. I should set it aside and just let it run, and get onto more serious building and testing

I am also on the monopole yahoo group and going to go through the 20 cycles. it's a great group and I have gotten some good advice over there as well!

hope everything here makes sense, and that my guess is correct and hasn't misled anyone
N8

Hey N8,

Thanks for the response and I do agree with you that the FPS of the camera
can not keep up with the RPM of the system. And when I have the SSG
running on over 2000 RPM the camera defines the individual pulses in each trigger signal. (since higher speed can define more)

However, after I use a few different digital cameras I can compare the
results and make a better conclusion from there.
I do believe in the theory a few friends agree with that the 8 horizontal lines
in each of the vertical pulses show the 2 pulses per magnet generated by
the trigger coil.
Still looking for good deal for oscilloscope and looks like a $300-400 eBay
model will have to do and if last 2-3 yrs I will have to live with it

Keep up the posts mate.

Regards
Zero

[ZeropointEnergy]

LED's

Interesting observation. I did notice the same while filming devices with pulsing LED's.


V

Hey Vtech,

Yes this is a very interesting anomoly and another wierd fact is a piece of
wood 18mm (about 3/4in# can block the signal reaching the camera,
but is same distance from rotor just LED out of view.
This cant be the EM radiation causing the anomoly due to wood will not
stop the magnetic field, unless only FPS issue with the camera.
So why does it show up when LED is in frame at over 2 meters away yet place camera
near housing that is only 5-10cm from the magnetic field
the pulses dissapear??? #I hope there is more to this)

I'm going to have fun experimenting with this relationship and thanks
for the reply

Regards
Zero

[ZeropointEnergy]

SSG Radiant Flash

Hey N8,

I was just starting my SSG for 30-40 secs and charging
25V 30000uF capacitor till full then stop unit.
Unhook output wires and short capacitor, added 2 wires
under the screw terminals to act as switch.

Very fun and I;m sure you have done it and if not is simple
I done first test with 25V 20000uF then grabbed bigger
capacitor when recorded it.

Regards
Zero

[Neight]

Hey N8,

I was just starting my SSG for 30-40 secs and charging
25V 30000uF capacitor till full then stop unit.
Unhook output wires and short capacitor, added 2 wires
under the screw terminals to act as switch.

Very fun and I;m sure you have done it and if not is simple
I done first test with 25V 20000uF then grabbed bigger
capacitor when recorded it.

Regards
Zero

always fun to watch them pop like that
when I was putting the cap-pulse circuit on my SSG I had to dump it several times with either the output wires or a screwdriver. it took me a few tries to get everything wired together just right. it would fill up the cap, but wasn't getting to the battery. My SSG would run, and it would take about 10 seconds or less of running till the cap was full and the neon would light so I could tell if the output was getting to the battery. when the neon would start to light I knew I was in trouble and would have to shut it off and dump the cap before working to fix the circuit.
the first time i shorted the cap to empty it, it popped so big it made me jump after that one I used a big long handled screwdriver, just in case

thanks for posting, good to see your still working on things. I have been overwhelmingly busy the last two weeks, had a road trip and in the process of moving. my new place is going to have an excellent workbench in the basement, that was already used by someone else who did something with electronics. there is a board setup on the bench already with some switches on it, and some outlets. should be a pretty nice experiment bench to work on!!
hope to be back to building, experimenting and useful contributing sooner than later
N8

[ZeropointEnergy]

Nice

always fun to watch them pop like that
when I was putting the cap-pulse circuit on my SSG I had to dump it several times with either the output wires or a screwdriver. it took me a few tries to get everything wired together just right. it would fill up the cap, but wasn't getting to the battery. My SSG would run, and it would take about 10 seconds or less of running till the cap was full and the neon would light so I could tell if the output was getting to the battery. when the neon would start to light I knew I was in trouble and would have to shut it off and dump the cap before working to fix the circuit.
the first time i shorted the cap to empty it, it popped so big it made me jump after that one I used a big long handled screwdriver, just in case

thanks for posting, good to see your still working on things. I have been overwhelmingly busy the last two weeks, had a road trip and in the process of moving. my new place is going to have an excellent workbench in the basement, that was already used by someone else who did something with electronics. there is a board setup on the bench already with some switches on it, and some outlets. should be a pretty nice experiment bench to work on!!
hope to be back to building, experimenting and useful contributing sooner than later
N8

Hey N8,

Thankyou for the reply and enjoy the new electronics workbench it does
make a significant difference with a large area for layout of circuits.

Regards
Zero

[ZeropointEnergy]

The clip

always fun to watch them pop like that
when I was putting the cap-pulse circuit on my SSG I had to dump it several times with either the output wires or a screwdriver. it took me a few tries to get everything wired together just right. it would fill up the cap, but wasn't getting to the battery. My SSG would run, and it would take about 10 seconds or less of running till the cap was full and the neon would light so I could tell if the output was getting to the battery. when the neon would start to light I knew I was in trouble and would have to shut it off and dump the cap before working to fix the circuit.
the first time i shorted the cap to empty it, it popped so big it made me jump after that one I used a big long handled screwdriver, just in case

thanks for posting, good to see your still working on things. I have been overwhelmingly busy the last two weeks, had a road trip and in the process of moving. my new place is going to have an excellent workbench in the basement, that was already used by someone else who did something with electronics. there is a board setup on the bench already with some switches on it, and some outlets. should be a pretty nice experiment bench to work on!!
hope to be back to building, experimenting and useful contributing sooner than later
N8

Hey,

Here is the clip of it.

‪Dan's SSG Demonstration for Cap Discharging.AVI‬‏ - YouTube

Regards
Zero