experience using bedini kits

[jtanguay]

I found some interesting information in another thread here

Hi all,

You can certainly use higher voltage discharges if you want.

I've done up to 90v from caps triggered by neon bulb triggering a scr.
If voltage is too high with not enough current..example...I was using a
600v cap .1 or .01 uf...so it fills up fast...at high frequency discharge of
voltage like that...it will make the batts rise in voltage, but won't power
much...it is electrostatic voltage charge.

You need at least the bare minimum amount of current to get the lead
ions moving in charging mode to my understanding.

Those caps in the vid are 30,000 60volts...made by Aerovox or something.
Anyway, I got those from ebay about 6 years ago or so for about $5 each.

A neon/scr circuit can replace an entire 555 circuit but again, if the trigger
voltage is high and not enough capacitance to give a good burst, it will be
a very fluffy charge.

If capacitance is too high to get the voltage rise in the caps that you want, then the discharge frequency might be too slow and again, this won't charge a battery very well. I used a bike wheel motor with the 2000 turn trifilar charging 180,000uf to about 2-3 volts over the battery and triggered by mechanical switch on pully and it took about 2 seconds to get to a few volts above the battery...and that works fine as long as the capacitance seems to be high enough. On that example for example, I would charge the batt like a 12v 7ah gel cell for 1-2 hours then I would turn off the circuit. The voltage would continue to climb and climb for up to an hour with no additional input. According to Bearden, that is the momentum of the lead ions still moving and that may or may not be accurate. Either way, the effect is very real.

That 'fluffy' charge is exactly what I'm experiencing. It's probably due to the 250 volt 2uf capacitor. The yellow ones sold with the bedini fan kit is an A/C capacitor right? I've also tried with those 200v 650uf power supply caps and it doesn't seem to make too big of a difference. They just take longer to fill up. I'm starting to think that I do need the 555 timer cap pulser circuit...

[Neight]

I found some interesting information in another thread here



That 'fluffy' charge is exactly what I'm experiencing. It's probably due to the 250 volt 2uf capacitor. The yellow ones sold with the bedini fan kit is an A/C capacitor right? I've also tried with those 200v 650uf power supply caps and it doesn't seem to make too big of a difference. They just take longer to fill up. I'm starting to think that I do need the 555 timer cap pulser circuit...

here is a photo of the circuit I drew up. not the best photo, so if you need anything on it clarified, let me know. it works quite well in my SSG, and the only think I have on it that isn't in the diagram is a voltage regulator on the input to the 555 timer to protect it.

edit: OK for some reason the photo didn't load up right, here is a link to it on flickr...
pulse circuit | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

[jtanguay]

Thanks for the circuit Neight.

So I tried hooking up a 90 watt supply to the bedini at 19 volts and it's really spinning now, and the charge 'seems' to be much better. Thing is, I've hooked up the 18v battery to it and it took the voltage right up to 20 but I put it into the cordless powertool and it made a noise when I tried to use it, and then nothing else. Seems like whatever charge these batteries are taking is useless. Has anyone else experienced this? The commercial chargers being sold must have a 'secret' within them to properly charge the battery so it can actually do work. The battery will however light a light bulb... But if it can't charge a battery to operate a power tool, then it's useless IMO. It will also power the bedini fan charger but it is very weak and doesn't last long.

Again this could be due to the SCR cap pulser. Too bad nobody else has one of these kits and can report the same findings. If all I need to do is build the 555 cap pulser to get it working right, then that's what I'll do but I hate to spend so much time and money on something that 'might' work. Having a shoestring budget really sucks!

The battery I'm trying to revive now won't even be recognized by the charger... It usually takes some voodoo charging and discharging to the right capacity for it to even show up. Does anyone know how the conventional nicad chargers 'see' the battery? Either internal voltage, capacity, or impedance/resistance?

Also about the capacitors. Do they need to be AC or can they be DC? I tried a DC cap but it seemed to be a pretty weak charge...

Thanks

[jtanguay]

It would seem that my problem only lies with the cap pulser. The 250 volt 2uf capacitor is only giving me a 'fluffy' charge which is exactly what I'm experiencing. It will charge alkaline batteries like this as well as other batteries.

So for anyone else with issues using these fan kits, if you're getting a fluffy charge, it is due to the capacitor not being the correct uf rating. A few volts over the battery voltage capacity is ideal as well from my reading of this thread.

[Slider2732]

I do hope you've nailed the troubles..it's always very encouraging to see someone work through such a problem. No doubt for the O/P as well.

After seeing just such a fluffy charge on my own pulse motors, the fix might have relevance to your problem - though do note i'm still fairly fresh at this, its not directly Bedini related, it just worked. Of importance before worrying about the cap pulser side maybe, is that my own don't have storage buffer caps..simple Adams motor types, with HV split through an AV plug along with the circuit voltage going into the battery.
I noted that at voltages of charge well above the battery voltage, the battery would take the power in and seemingly fill right up quite quickly. A whole session would be just 30 minutes and the battery would sit a volt or so above its rating for 20 minutes of that run.
However, items like watches would then only run for about a day on their recharged alkalines (tiny setups here). I found that the same sort of pot adjusting as you see in the Bedini videos also applies to other motor builds. That a sulfated battery may need to be charged initially on a comparatively large voltage (like traditional Ni-CD wisp blowing) and then the charge 'rate' turned down such that the battery climbs to capacity over a longer period.
If the run is performed in such a way, the charge goes in and stays in, as it were. Further charges of that battery can then be performed at the reduced level throughout, without the initial spike type wisp blowing.
I have a rejuvenated cordless drill Ni-CD battery here of 7.2V that even has a bust cell, bringing it down to 6V...yet the drill will run for many minutes after a 2 hour charge now, with plenty enough torque for household jobs.
So, just an observation of something that I hope helps.