Bizzy's Bedini Machine aka Watson Machine

[Donald Haas]

Hi All,
Continuing with build.
Degreased pillow block bearings and lubed with Lubrilon.
Soldered silver plated, copper contacts onto brass strips for switching.
Pulsed motor with switch and looks good.
Next is bore end of shaft out for smaller motor shaft.
Cast coils with metal backing strips.
Glue mags to steel rotor.
Assemble and give it a go.

bro d

[Donald Haas]

Hi All,
Don't know if anyone is interested, but that's OK.
I'll continue what I'm doing until I'm satisfied one way or the other.

Unable to have any contact with Bizzy.

I used the alt that I had on hand to try the switches and a series wound motor and Bizzy's battery/capicitor.

Didn't expect it to do much.
Wasn't happy with the switches.

I'm about ready to pour a stator that is 6 coils, 100T, #14 wire.
I'll put iron on the backs of the coils like Bizzy did and use bearings that I think will perform better than my pillow blocks did.
Bizzy never said exactly what he was using for a "bearing system". He spoke highly of it but the shaft wobbled on top and so forth.

If one went vertical and suspended the mag rotor with a bearing and got a good straight connection between shaft and motor on the bottom, one could use the motor bearings to hold some of the weight.

Staying with horizontal for now.

HEY BUZZY! You there man?

bro d

[wrtner]

I don't think bearings are an issue. They need to be OK; that's all. JB is clear that the nature of the generator matters. Energiser rather than alternator, and ensure that the pulse to the motor is out of step with the pulse from the energiser. But Bizzy seems not bothered with this, and he may be getting disappointing results as a result.

[Donald Haas]

I don't think bearings are an issue. They need to be OK; that's all. JB is clear that the nature of the generator matters. Energiser rather than alternator, and ensure that the motor pulse is out of step with the pulse to the energiser. But Bizzy seems not bothered with this, and he may be getting disappointing results as a result.

Hi wrtner,
I understand about the energizer instead of an alternator.
I got so stimulated with Bizzy's spirit that I'm after his build.
He was thrilled with his success and never changed his tone.

If I can't get it to fly then I'll make an energizer for the setup.

I do not understand how to tune an energizer so that the ions in the battery move backward and cause the battery to charge.

Bearden theorized it and JB apparently has done it...................

Been searching for a little larger series wound DC motors.

Fasco used to make a 1/3 and 1/4hp.

The small SW blower motors are becoming obsolete and then the next range upward seems to be winch motors with a 200A full load @12v.

Thanks for responding,

bro d

[wrtner]

I got so stimulated with Bizzy's spirit that I'm after his build.
He was thrilled with his success and never changed his tone.

Has he provided any numbers? That is what counts.

I don't know what you mean by ions moving backwards. JB's basic circuit is quite conventional - it has commutators unfortunately, but apart from ensuring that the pulses are out of step, and subject to a fairly heavy flywheel, it is straightforward.

( 12v DC motors - I burnt my fingers with automobile starter motors. They are very powerful and field wound but the bearings are absolutely crap - probably because they are not used for more than a second at a time).

[Donald Haas]

[QUOTE=wrtner;258058]

I don't know what you mean by ions moving backwards. JB's basic circuit is quite conventional - it has commutators unfortunately, but apart from ensuring that the pulses are out of step, and subject to a fairly heavy flywheel, it is straightforward.

Hi wrtner,
Tom Bearden explains my reference to ions moving in reverse right after the heading and pic:

"Tom Bearden 1984 Simple Free Energy Motor"

At the following link.

20  Bedini

This is the original concept that Bedini taught to Watson.

bro d

[wrtner]

I do not understand how to tune an energizer so that the ions in the battery move backward and cause the battery to charge.

In the first instance, I wouldn't bother. Get the gear up and running and start taking readings.

I don't understand much of what these sages say, and don't follow this statement but what we undoubtedly have is a fluctuating pulse system driving an inductive load. So, there will be a resonance peak at some frequency. This may be part of what John is driving at.

It may be a matter of adjusting the frequency of the pulses to the motor which will alter the frequency of the pulses to and from the energiser and on to the battery which is, I believe, inductive. We need resonance in this second circuit. Look for a maximum response but I am not sure exactly what you will be looking for.


[This "backwards" comment reminds me of the Turion 3 battery system]

[alman]

Any new progress Bro d, don't visit this site too much, but saw this thread revitalized and caught up. Saw you completed window motor. Are you disappointed with it? Haven't seen to much action from your thread on the other site. Thanks for sharing your progress. Aln

[Donald Haas]

Hi Alman,

It looks like my window motor needs much bigger wire to have much torque.

I'm using #19 and #14 might get it.

It runs at 1700rpm on 36v. 3 windings.

Runs smooth (balanced) and sounds like the vid when accelerating.

JB made a comment about Rick's lawnmower and said the fronts wheels came off the ground and it had the equivalent of #5 wire for windings.


I cast a stator with coils according to Bizzy's and have been working on improving my switching arrangement.

Havn't tried the new stator and latest switching yet.

If anyone has seen Buzzy's switching setup I would greatly appreciate a tip or 2. I would like to know what he used for contacts.

I have a 1.3hp series wound motor that will be for scaling up in time.

Good to hear form you Alman.

bro d

[alman]

I know how much time, energy, and resources go into building projects, so thanks again for sharing. One can not possibly build them all and live a normal life with work and family. I have no advise to offer and am sorry for that. Wheely's on a lawn tractor can be had at 10 hp depending on drive from motor. 1700 rpm's is a good electric motor speed. What kind of load have you driven? Grinding wheel, water pump, fan, air compressor, etc. How about the amp draw at 36v with load and no load? Is it comparable to say a 1/3 hp conventional electric motor? Thanks again. Aln

[Donald Haas]

Hi alman,
Sounds like you've done some building.
I've been focusing on the Tesla Switch lately.
I have several projects to get back to.

The no load amp draw at 36v on my window motor is about 1.1amp with 1700rpm.
I tried a low output axial flux alt set up and knew that bigger wire was needed. Will get back to it.
I'm very grateful for Matt Jones on the use for the Tesla switch thread

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...witch-139.html

bro d