Bizzy's Bedini Machine aka Watson Machine

[Donald Haas]

Hi Carroll,

Thanks for posting. Your positive comments are encouraging.
There are forum participants who have seen the machine run but maybe don't want to be known. I was thinking that maybe tips could be texted by phone or private email for example.

Today I tested switching using mag resistance and mag attraction.

Either method could be used. The attraction method is much louder.

Bizzy talked about the switch closing when the magnet passes and then the lower magnet "falling" into position #2.

Sounds like he used the attraction method with the upper mag passing and pulling the lower mag up to close the switch.

On another issue:
Do you know if his alt mag rotor was metal?
I have the Hugh Piggott Wind Turbine Recipe Book and all mag rotors are metal.

One setup in the book is in fact the 6 coils and 8 mags that Bizzy preferred.

Waiting for stuff on order.

Thanks again, Carroll.

Keepin' on,

bro d

[Donald Haas]

Can't attach an Image

I click on insert image and the page is asking for a url.
Why doesn't it ask me to upload the image?

I click on attachments and the only choice is "attachments"

[wrtner]

I click on insert image and the page is asking for a url.
Why doesn't it ask me to upload the image?

I click on attachments and the only choice is "attachments"

Use:
"Additional options" facility and then
"Manage attachments"

You will get a browse button to steer you to where your file is.
.

[Donald Haas]

Switch

Thanks for the help wrtner.

Attached pdf file is concept of required switching.

Mag repulsion mode had less drag than attraction mode and pulls the contacts apart after close period.

I'll be experimenting to handle 200W.

Want to see arching and contact wear.

Hoping to locate contacts from equipment that can handle much higher Watts.

Perhaps resistance welding silver plated rivets.

bro d

[wrtner]

I haven't been following this thread very closely and may have missed the point of these switches. Are they simple electrical switches, single pole, single throw? If so, you may find a Hall effect switch does a better job. Patrick's book mentions the A1301 (or A1302) and how to use it for switching a circuit from a rotating shaft with a magnet.

[Donald Haas]

I haven't been following this thread very closely and may have missed the point of these switches. Are they simple electrical switches, single pole, single throw? If so, you may find a Hall effect switch does a better job. Patrick's book mentions the A1301 (or A1302) and how to use it for switching a circuit from a rotating shaft with a magnet.

Hi wrtner,
I'm sticking with mechanical contacts for the time being.
Halls could be used to trigger a relay with mechanical contacts.
When JB moved away from a commutator and brushes he used a 555 timer cct to trigger a DPDT mechanical relay.

In my attached pdf image the idea is using magnet repulsion to force contacts together. No friction, brushless. When the passing magnet is at the edge of the sw closed "zone" it actually pulls the contacts apart. I've got to test it for appropriate wattage.

Are you planning to build along the lines of Bizzy's mjachine?

Regards,

bro d

[wrtner]

Are you planning to build along the lines of Bizzy's machine?

Regards,

bro d

I have most of the bits but have been hanging back to see how Bizzy gets on. I think I will pursue in my direction, which is strictly the JB direction, namely, amongst other things, using his "energisers" (not alternators), prefering metal switches (as you are) and ensuring that the pulses to the motor are out of step with the pulses from the energiser.

You say: "When JB moved away from a commutator and brushes he used a 555 timer cct to trigger a DPDT mechanical relay". Where does this come from? It is at variance with his 1984 paper on the "Watson" machine, a jumbo version of his original development. Maybe it is an improvement or possibly a misunderstanding and a move in the wrong direction.

[Donald Haas]

I have most of the bits but have been hanging back to see how Bizzy gets on. I think I will pursue in my direction, which is strictly the JB direction, namely, amongst other things, using his "energisers" (not alternators), prefering metal switches (as you are) and ensuring that the pulses to the motor are out of step with the pulses from the energiser.

Hi wrtner,

I'm able to get very good square waves with the mag attraction mode.
By dampening the contact movement, the noise decreases and seeing good clean switching at about 600rpm (1200cycles per minute) Was able to run a series wound 1/7hp DC motor off of a batt with the switch. (Fasco DC143. Out of production but they can be found.)

BUY DC143 Fasco Bus and Truck Heater DC Motor

You say: "When JB moved away from a commutator and brushes he used a 555 timer cct to trigger a DPDT mechanical relay". Where does this come from? It is at variance with his 1984 paper on the "Watson" machine, a jumbo version of his original development. Maybe it is an improvement or possibly a misunderstanding and a move in the wrong direction.

Bedini said in Electricity's Watson thread, that Watson used his 555 timer circuit. In Electricity's Watson thread Bedini's ire was a bit raised and he made some valuable comments.

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...n-machine.html

I've attached a copy of the circuit.

It looks like the duty cycle of alt to batt and batt to motor, are both close to 50%. I doubt if Buzzy's switch is more than 25% duty cycle for each.

This may allow for the use of an AF alternator instead of an energizer.

Glad to hear that you can build one of these.

Bro d

[wrtner]

The drawing I have in mind is as attached. But I recall a method of ensuring that the pulse to the motor is out of step with the pulse from the energiser. I can't remember how this is done. Possibly by rotating the energiser coils setup whilst watching the output on a dual trace oscilloscope connected to the motor and the energiser.

[Donald Haas]

With the commutator in the pic the motor is disconnected at least on the pos leg when the pulse is sent to the battery.
The pic doesn't show a bridge rectifier between the energizer and the cap which is needed.
John B is saying nonlinear energizer.
For example, 6 coils and 7 magnets.
The energizer would be pulsing into the cap when the motor receives it's pulse and it does look like one could use a dual trace scope to place the motor pulse in between energizer pulses as you suggest.
The energizer puts out AC, so maybe at the zero crossing once per revolution.
Regards,
bro d

[Donald Haas]

SW defined

Hi All,
Attached pdf file has switching that i'm testing.
The idea is working well.
Much less noise than Bizzy's.
I can adjust duty cycle with mag size.
regards
bro d

[wrtner]

Hi All,
Attached pdf file has switching that i'm testing.

It is rather elaborate. I suspect that the contact points from an auto distributor would serve you well.

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[wrtner]

The activity of the animal beings has become acutely active everywhere on this earth..

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Moderator: RED CARD, please.
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[Donald Haas]

Auto distributor points

It is rather elaborate. I suspect that the contact points from an auto distributor would serve you well.

Hi wrtner,

I've tried auto distributor points in the past and have machined custom cams.

This time I want to have no drag such as I would have with points and a cam.

I've ordered some contact points that I can attach to my brass strips in my switch. We'll see how that goes.

I've wound 6 coils with #14awg, 100 turns. They may be slightly thicker than Bizzy's and I'll also try 6 coils that appear to be identical. The thicker ones that I've wound are thicker so that the stator will work with a 9" mag rotor.
Less width but the same wire and form size for 1" by 2" mags except that the form is .75" thick instead of .5" thick.

I've wound both but couldn't get all 12 from a single 10 lb spool of #14 wire.

10, 100t coils form 1 spool.


I've decided to build horizontal.

I'm going to use pillow block bearings with the grease removed and light oil added. .75" shaft.

I'll need to fit a 5/16" motor shaft with a flat to the .75" shaft. I can turn an appropriate reducer on my lathe.

I just realized that I can easily double the thickness of my 1/4" steel mag rotor or even triple it if needed for additional rotor weight.

I'll be adding steel strips to the bottom of the coils and I have the batts and 2 farad caps.

Tested the switching to see if I could keep a battery charged that was running the series wound motor. Positive results.

How are you doing with getting your build started?

Regards bro d