Hydrogen Boosters for Cars

[cffevans]

Cold weather

Has anyone an idea on what to use to keep these wfc's from freezing in the winter. I live in Pennsylvania where we can expect to see temps down to 0'F. And some of the other parts of the world think we've got it almost tropical.

I've read elsewhere about putting isopropyl alcohal into the mix, but that was a Pantone type system. Ideas or directions welcome.

Live clean and prosper,
Mark H Evans

[Redmeanie]

New Device For O2 Sensor

This is a new device for anyone looking at adding a booster to their vehicle, but were freaked out about modifying the electronics of their O2 sensors and ECM.
It seems pretty logical, and since I have a chronic interest in this area, I will Guinea Pig it and advise the Board of my findings. I ran across it on the Water Car discussion board and apparently others there are using them now, and at the price you can't help but try!
Products of Protium Fuel Systems Research & Development

[Aaron]

Protium Oxyisolator

Very interesting...just a plug to screw the sensor into. comes with 3 so that is good but might be able to find same threaded plugs at a hardware store.

Please let us know your results.

[Redmeanie]

Im Thinking The Same Thing.....

I believe you are right about finding them in the Hardware store. I have seen very similar fittings at Lowes. They look very similar to extensions for water heater pressure relief valves. They are Brass or copper probably but should be just as good. I will check tomorrow and let everyone know if they have them....
Just look for 18m 1.5 pitch threads and that is the size for the standard Bosch Sensor.

[Redmeanie]

Diesel Engines? Question For Any GURU's Out There

I had someone ask about adding a booster to a Diesel engine. I have no clue about the electronics that control the fuel on a diesel engine and could not tell him the answers he was looking for. So perhaps someone here has knowledge enough to answer, what seems to be simple questions for someone who knows in more detail how a diesel works.
1) How would you restrict fuel flow?
(we are assuming that it is electronically controlled, but not as complicated as gasoline)
2) What other modifications would need to be done to run a "BOOSTER" and get better mileage?
(We understand that fuel cut would be mediocre compared to gasoline engine results, but any cuts in fuel cost would be helpful at this point!)
,
Mira

[Jan H]

how about doing this with a stan meyer system? For people that don't know: The highly efficient pulse DC electrolysis? That could do away with gasoline at all could it not?
Running a combustion engine on pure H2 +O is risky though, it would need a bubbler to prevent backfire into the storage tank, and timing needs to be retarded. But still it would be fun.

I recall a website showing how to do this in great detail, can't remember its name though.

[Racer426]

Save Your Money

This is a new device for anyone looking at adding a booster to their vehicle, but were freaked out about modifying the electronics of their O2 sensors and ECM.
It seems pretty logical, and sense I have a chronic interest in this area, I will Guinea Pig it and advise the Board of my findings. I ran across it on the Water Car discussion board and apparently others there are using them now, and at the price you can't help but try!
Products of Protium Fuel Systems Research & Development

SAVE YOUR MONEY.

After being in the Auto Parts Business for over 35 years, I know a Spark Plug Non-Fouler (Anti-Fouler) when I see one. You can buy them at your local Autozone for around $4.99 a pair.

This mod has been pretty well proven. Google "o2 sensor" and you will find this all over the place. The best site I found was, I believe, a BMW site, but I couldn't find it again.

I believe the way it works is this: When you move the o2 Sensor Nose out of the direct exhaust stream, the Sensor sees "Less Oxygen". When the Computer reads "Less or Low Oxygen" from the Sensor, it thinks the Engine is running RICH and will LEAN out the fuel system, in other words, send LESS fuel to the engine. You can not just take the sensor out and plug the hole, it won't work. Part of the Sensors functioning is Heat related.

Here is how to do it:

1. First: Make sure there is enough room around the o2 Sensor to space it out, because the exhaust system moves around a lot.

2. Go to your local auto parts store and buy a pair of Non-Foulers (Anti-Foulers): Motormite 42009 or Dorman equivalent. They are 18mm for Ford spark plugs. Be sure to get the Gasket Seat, not the Tapered Seat.

3.This may actually be a good time to buy a NEW o2 Sensor. Most o2 Sensors need to be replaced in the 60,000 to 100,000 range. Check and see what the recommendation is for your vehicle. When an o2 Sensor goes bad, the Computer goes into "Limp In" mode. Which means, the motor will still run, (although poorly) but the Computer will set all the operating parameters into "Very Safe" zones, which includes "Running RICH".

4. Disconnect the Battery while working on the o2 sensor to reset the computer and to prevent any electrical problems.

5. Put one non-fouler in a vice and drill through it with a 1/2" drill bit. A drill press is best. This makes room for the o2 sensor head and opens up the end.

6. Carefully unscrew and remove the old o2 senor. If reusing the old Sensor, apply Anti-Seize to the threads and screw it into the drilled out anti-fouler. Now apply Anti-Seize to the threads of the Non-Fouler and reinstall into the exhaust pipe. Don't over tighten the Non-Fouler because the walls are pretty thin after drilling.

7. Some people will also add the second, undrilled non-fouler, between the exhaust pipe and the drilled non-fouler & o2 Sensor at this time. It's up to you. But I prefer to do it one step at a time. Be sure to use Anti-Seize on the threads.

REMEMBER: It may take 1 to 2 weeks for the Computer to relearn the system. DO NOT continue to drive if there is a lot of pre-ignition or detonation.

NOTE: Always use Anti-Seize on the threads. DO NOT Touch or get any Anti-Seize on the sensor head!!! It will ruin the Sensor. The o2 Sensor is actually a fairly delicate instrument.

Hope this Helps.

[Racer426]

how about doing this with a stan meyer system? For people that don't know: The highly efficient pulse DC electrolysis? That could do away with gasoline at all could it not?
Running a combustion engine on pure H2 +O is risky though, it would need a bubbler to prevent backfire into the storage tank, and timing needs to be retarded. But still it would be fun.

I recall a website showing how to do this in great detail, can't remember its name though.

There are 2 places for Excellent Information.

Practical Guide to Free-Energy Devices
Go to Document D14.pdf

OS:Water Fuel Cell - PESWiki
H2EARTH will hopefully have their first fully functional prototype very soon.

I personally believe that HHO supplementation to Gasoline and Diesel is the easiest and most practical right NOW. You don't have to rework the engine.

Hope this helps

[Aaron]

great tips

Thanks Racer,

This sounds like the cheapest and easiest o2 sensor mod.

George Wiseman recommends his own o2 circuit is not used by itself without any combustion enhancer because without it might run too lean and detonate.

That might be good advice with this setup as well...only use it with a water cell booster, fuel additive, etc... to ensure the slightly leaner mix will combust effectively.

[Aaron]

anti fouler o2 sensor mod

This is really a cool setup Racer. I'm happy to learn about this and it is so much easier than making the circuit with the 555 and voltage regulators.

I found an autozone link to these:
AutoZone.com | Repair Info | Product Information - Spark Plug Non-Fouler

I printed out your instructions and there is one car I'll test it on.

Here are some pics of someone who drilled one out and even welded the two non-foulers together. Anyway, this helps to see the idea.
AudiWorld Forums: Plug anti-fouler O2 sensor mod seems to be working so far.

Here are some more great pics of this mod:
Club: JDM ~ View topic - 02 Simulator (DIY CEL Eliminator)




If we disconnect the car battery for a few hours or overnight, would that reset the fuel computer to learn it quicker?

[Redmeanie]

Thanks Racer!!!!

WOW....
See now that is what a site like this is supposed to be.....And thats why this forum is so much better than others out there.
The sharing of knowledge that is found on this site is outstanding, unlike other places where you bring up a topic and others talk down to you just because they are a little more knowledgeable in a certain area!
Thanks for your info and Im sure MANY Others here will appreciate the info, and your contributions to this site....
Thanks Again!!

[Redmeanie]

Anti Fouler O2 Mod

So would we install this on ALL the o2 sensors or just the front ones before the CAT? Almost all the Mods Ive read have been people just installing on the rear o2 sensors to trick the ecu into thinking there is a cat installed. But the front o2's control the A/F mixture and thats the one we want to trick.
Im just curious if we should also place these after the cat so that all the sensors are sorta "Calibrated" together, you know what I mean?

[Racer426]

Hi,

Thanks for the comments. I like teaching.

Thanks for the pictures Aaron. I actually had pics, but I haven't figured that out yet.

One of the reasons I suggested disconnecting the battery while working on it is to completely dissipate the electricity out of the system. If you've ever had powered speakers with the little red light on it, you know that the light takes awhile to go out AFTER you turn the power off. Your car's electrical system works the same way. Actually that's a characteristic of DC current. It doesn't dissipate immediately like AC. By the way, MOST things in the house are "DC". They convert the AC to DC to use it. On the car, it is probably gone in 1 minute, but I like to disconnect for at least 5 minutes. Turning on the headlights will speed it up.

Redmeanie. You're right. The Front o2 Sensors affect the A/F ratio while the o2's after the cat just verify that the cat is doing it's job. I would think that the rear cat sensor would usually be unaffected by a booster, because a booster actually Cleans the exhaust.

As a side note: If you have a car that is borderline in passing emissions, the best thing you can do before an Emissions Test is CHANGE THE OIL. It makes a HUGE difference.

Personally, I prefer not to run a vehicle with a computer. I want something that I can fix on the side of the road. If something goes wrong on the highway, you're at the mercy of someone else. When I redid my 1992 Pick Up, I completely eliminated the Computer, and the electric fuel pump. I have dual Ignition systems. The primary is an MSD with adjustable timing retard, (for my future booster). If it fails, I can reconnect a couple of wires in 2 minutes and be running again on the stock Ignition Box. Plus I always carry a box of essential parts (alt, fuel pump, belts, voltage reg, fuses, bulbs, etc.)

If and when I get a later model vehicle, I would prefer to use a completely adjustable, stand alone system. NOT the original OEM unit. But that's me.

Hope this helps.

[Racer426]

WOW....
See now that is what a site like this is supposed to be.....And thats why this forum is so much better than others out there.
The sharing of knowledge that is found on this site is outstanding, unlike other places where you bring up a topic and others talk down to you just because they are a little more knowledgeable in a certain area!
Thanks for your info and Im sure MANY Others here will appreciate the info, and your contributions to this site....
Thanks Again!!

Actually, the person that talks down to someone is the one with the problem.

The older I get, the more stuff I find out about that I didn't know that I didn't know about. And there's a lot of stuff I don't WANT to know about!!!



This is a Magnificent Journey we're on.

[Redmeanie]

Racer:
Yes it's definetly easier to play with an older car.... SO much easier to work on! But here in the Lousy state of the Gulf Coast of Texas we have VERY STRICT emission laws on vehicles. (Strange that they are so tough on vehicles and yet across the bay there are 5 large oil refineries pumping god knows how many pollutants in the air 24/7 with NO repercussions.)
And because of this they will NOT allow backwards engineering. In other words no safety sticker. And that means you can't drive the vehicle on the roadway.
Also since mostly everyone around here drives a newer vehicle (because you almost have to to pass emissions), the goal is to come up with an easy to build, install and use system that will work on any vehicle.
I have a very promising design for a booster Im working on that is completely idiot proof and efficient. The only thing that had me concerned was the O2 issue, and well since you helped with that, it is no longer an issue.
Of course once it is finished (in a few weeks hopefully) I will post pic's and step by steps for everyone to use.
I will also be installing it in a Brand new mid size vehicle so that Calculation factors as far as MPG increases will be as accurate as possible. The new engine, electronics and other sensors should be at the top of their game without the fluctuations that would probably occur with an older vehicle.