HHO For Vehicles Questions

[elcman]

Quick WFC questions:

I've been looking at all of these fantastic models of HHO Water Fuel Cells... most of which seem pretty out of reach for me, but I'll solve that somehow.

Anyway, I'm curious about which one people perceive to be the best solution?

From my reading, I seem to prefer the Stan Meyer's WFC. Which seems like it still has a ways to go since the inventor with the answer was poisoned. (May he rest in peace.) And the others, like the Bob Boyce and other models with a series of plates in cells... they don't tickle me as a the one "bulletproof" solution for HHO generation.

The Stan Meyer's cell, with the switching current, uses a method that seems to be more about resonance than brute force electrolysis. (Which is why I prefer it...) But I'm not sure what is the customary output of either types of cells?

In other words, which one do I invest my time in to maximize my results?

Also, what is the output target LPM in order to run a car, supplement a car, or make your own HHO torch?

I really want to get into this... Imhotep's Bendini fan circuit was a great introduction to this whole universe of possibilities... I'd like to see how much I can learn from it while the energy is flowing.

[**~Imhotep~**]

First Coast Man Has Water Powered Car In The Works

I saw this clip today. Thought it was interesting. I have no details about it. Maybe someone else has some more info. Its most def a step in the right direction.

JACKSONVILLE, FL -- The way things run it seems like to do anything you need the right fuel to get going. Many of us feel that pressure at the pump, but maybe not forever.

"I get 100 miles to the ounce on water," says Anthony Brown while talking about his work in progress. "I can run any water, distilled water, drinking water, tap water,"

Brown says he's close to having the answer. He's fixed his car to run on mostly water.

"Right now it's using a little bit of gas. If anything it's getting a fuel vapor. I've got the fuel injection system shut down," says Brown.

CNN - Link

First coast news link

[wpage]

good news

[QUOTE=**~Imhotep~**;20085]I saw this clip today. Thought it was interesting. I have no details about it. Maybe someone else has some more info. Its most def a step in the right direction.

That is good news and sure hope its true...

Meanwhile my reality it putting together my little booster. Waiting on a few misc hard to find plumbing parts.

Some questions for some of the Guru's that have knowledge and experience with these automotive HHO systems.
-Has anyone solved the problem of the co2 issue with the "eagle EFIE" solution or the home made circuit board that folks here are talking about?
If so whats best.
-Does this dialed in approach to the co2 issue effectively deal with the lean out fuel ratio that we seek to achive with all this?
Or should spacers be used.
-What seems to be the "best" design for automobile HHO generators the 4" pipe with ss outlet covers? the 3" pipe E cell using the coil? or which?

Regards,
Woody

[ANTIQUER]

Quick WFC questions:

I've been looking at all of these fantastic models of HHO Water Fuel Cells... most of which seem pretty out of reach for me, but I'll solve that somehow.

Anyway, I'm curious about which one people perceive to be the best solution?

From my reading, I seem to prefer the Stan Meyer's WFC. Which seems like it still has a ways to go since the inventor with the answer was poisoned. (May he rest in peace.) And the others, like the Bob Boyce and other models with a series of plates in cells... they don't tickle me as a the one "bulletproof" solution for HHO generation.

The Stan Meyer's cell, with the switching current, uses a method that seems to be more about resonance than brute force electrolysis. (Which is why I prefer it...) But I'm not sure what is the customary output of either types of cells?

In other words, which one do I invest my time in to maximize my results?

Also, what is the output target LPM in order to run a car, supplement a car, or make your own HHO torch?

I really want to get into this... Imhotep's Bendini fan circuit was a great introduction to this whole universe of possibilities... I'd like to see how much I can learn from it while the energy is flowing.

Hi elcman,
Don't know what you mean by "out of your reach", but the Smacks booster is relatively cheap to build(usually $50-$75) & easy to install if you follow his instructions. Next level up is get what you need in pwm or EFIE etc. from Red Meanie to power it; will give you more HHO with less amps. & heat.
The Meyers system is much more complicated & expensive($500-$700). I am building the Smacks currently for one vehicle, followed by a Meyers type system for the second vehicle. I will send you the plans for that system if you or anyone interested will pm me with your e-mail address. It is complete with plans, detailed instructions on construction, installation, troubleshooting, parts list & schematics.
Hope this answers a lot of your questions. If you have more ask them here. This is the best place on the web for accurate info. & plenty of folks willing to help.

[ANTIQUER]

I saw this clip today. Thought it was interesting. I have no details about it. Maybe someone else has some more info. Its most def a step in the right direction.




CNN - Link

First coast news link

Looks like he's doing about the same as Danny Klien in Clearwater, fl. whose system is similar to Stan Meyers. He already has an HHO torch which he sells commercially. From the looks of that water he is using the wrong material in the electrodes & the electrolisis is eating them up. I REALLY like his motive for doing this, though.

[**~Imhotep~**]

wow , clearwater is right down the road a few miles ,i have heard about hho for awhile. i wasnt aware of the details. I will be getting up to speed very soon with 1.75 a gallon increase in congress now on table ,im not sure if it passed.

i heard long ago that hydro corrodes inside of mufflers and you need stainless conv. but i have seen many, many clips of people doing this conversion to hho
with rave reviews .so i will research more and try myself in near future. thanks for info

[ANTIQUER]

wow , clearwater is right down the road a few miles ,i have heard about hho for awhile. i wasnt aware of the details. I will be getting up to speed very soon with 1.75 a gallon increase in congress now on table ,im not sure if it passed.

i heard long ago that hydro corrodes inside of mufflers and you need stainless conv. but i have seen many, many clips of people doing this conversion to hho
with rave reviews .so i will research more and try myself in near future. thanks for info

I guess we're neighbors, sort of. I'm in Orlando.You can check out Danny Klein at "Aquygen" or "Hydrogen Technology Applications,Inc". Great videos! His torch machine puts out 1500 liters of HHO at a cost of $.70 per hour. WOW! In his original video that aired on pbs he said he was getting 100mpg on 4 oz. of water. They anticipate having the booster for cars on the market sometime this year.
Where you need stainless steel parts is in the water & elec. connections. The electrolisis will eat up anything else. that's why the marine industry uses primarily s.s. for fittings; same problem only worse in saltwater.
I don't know what you still need for your booster but McMaster-Carr has it all.
The HHO will not corrode most exhaust systems as they are aluminized materials nowadays. I have a 1992 Buick roadmaster Estate Wagon with 185,000 miles on it & all original exhaust with no sign of rust or burnout as it's made from aluminized materials. Those types of comments are typical of the mis-information floating around on the internet.You won't get that here; that's why I like Energetic Forum.
So good luck with your booster & if you have any more questions don't be shy about asking.

[**~Imhotep~**]

I guess we're neighbors, sort of. I'm in Orlando.You can check out Danny Klein at "Aquygen" or "Hydrogen Technology Applications,Inc". Great videos! His torch machine puts out 1500 liters of HHO at a cost of $.70 per hour. WOW! In his original video that aired on pbs he said he was getting 100mpg on 4 oz. of water. They anticipate having the booster for cars on the market sometime this year.
Where you need stainless steel parts is in the water & elec. connections. The electrolisis will eat up anything else. that's why the marine industry uses primarily s.s. for fittings; same problem only worse in saltwater.
I don't know what you still need for your booster but McMaster-Carr has it all.
The HHO will not corrode most exhaust systems as they are aluminized materials nowadays. I have a 1992 Buick roadmaster Estate Wagon with 185,000 miles on it & all original exhaust with no sign of rust or burnout as it's made from aluminized materials. Those types of comments are typical of the mis-information floating around on the internet.You won't get that here; that's why I like Energetic Forum.
So good luck with your booster & if you have any more questions don't be shy about asking.

excelent info ,i have had boats ,being so close to the gulf (1 block).
as far as disinfo i dont watch the news to much any more unless its good info like the one previously about hho .ihave alot of people screen for us on the internet (got to love the internet)shiva(the wife) has a whole network on internet check things out for her .i will be asking for info from you shortly.
working on possibility of small ssg extraction (hho) tommorow will post any
positive results i like this forum because lots of info and positive sharing of results. great place to be. glad to meet you neighbor

[wpage]

Go cell

Had the breakthrough on my problem with the link Red provided (Thanks for the Peter UK links) on the Smack cell. I could not cut the ss outlet covers till I used a high speed drill...
Now I am ready to test that bad boy.
Thanks Red those links are on my bulletin board...

Results to follow...

Stay Tuned!

[wpage]

My HHO

Here is a reverse angle of my Smack gen...
I posted a pic on another thread in error

[timc4444]

Drillling SS plates

I'm a little behind you but drilled mine this weekend. I'm not sure if anyone else
mentioned it on some earlier post but after trying and reading a few places, I found that a carbide masonry bit worked the best (and probably cheaper). Just cool it with a water sprayer and don't let it heat up (turn red). Apparently, you harden it (temper it) when you heat it up.

[cyberphreax]

Hello Everyone

I'm in the process of doing research for building a booster system and I'm pretty much settled on a Smack style booster. Considering that it will take me at least a week to get all the parts and build it, I'm seriously considering building one of the little bell jar boosters using baking soda to run for a couple of weeks until I get the smack unit built. Does anyone have any good reason why I shouldn't do that? I can build that setup tonight when I get home from work. I'm just going to use the non-foulers to remove the O2 sensor from the exhaust stream for now but I plan on building an EFIE and a PWM for the smack unit. Has anyone used a booster along with fuel additives like acetone and xylene? If so what affect did it have? Will the hydroxy nullify the effect of the additives?

[TuxAir]

When you say "Bell jar", do you mean one of these? (see attachment)

Baking soda.... friends don't let friends use baking soda in their boosters.
Use KOH (aka lye, potassium hydroxide).

Glass jars.... friends don't let friends do that either

Spark plug non-foulers... from my research, they do not work. Get an EFIE if you need one.

Build your smack unit. It is a great learning experience and if done well, a very capable booster. Do consider buying one from The Smack himself. After all the running around I did gathering parts, ordering from McMaster-Carr and this,that and the other.... I would buy one for my next vehicle.

There is quite a bit of information on this board about these things. Out of all the places I have looked for information, this place has the best. For more information (and the white noise that goes along with it) join the two Yahoo! Groups called watercar & hydroxy. The man who makes the Smacks Booster is on them too and goes by the nickname "E" or "Electrik"

Also, RedMeanie has a very nice DIY kit for PWM's & EFIE's. I suggest you get his if you need them.

Kind regards!

[wpage]

SS drilling

I'm a little behind you but drilled mine this weekend. I'm not sure if anyone else
mentioned it on some earlier post but after trying and reading a few places, I found that a carbide masonry bit worked the best (and probably cheaper). Just cool it with a water sprayer and don't let it heat up (turn red). Apparently, you harden it (temper it) when you heat it up.

That is a great idea using carbide masonry bits. Wish I had thought of it. I struggled drilling the very hard 302 grade ss and ruined quite a few bits and then spent time grinding on a bench grinder and using a rotary hand tool cleaning up burrs. Those 32 holes took some time to get right.
I used a extra ss outlet plate to make up the 3 strips by using aviation snips for cutting out my conductors which worked alright, but was a stretch on the bridge connector across the bottom of the cell...

I agree with the last post for the other item. Get the EFIE rather than the extender for the sensor. It gives much greater flexibilty. Search for more data and make your own analysis/decision.

Forget about baking soda. Use it for your teeth!
Cheers

[cyberphreax]

When you say "Bell jar", do you mean one of these? (see attachment)

Yep, that's the one

Baking soda.... friends don't let friends use baking soda in their boosters.
Use KOH (aka lye, potassium hydroxide).

I know sodium/potassium hydroxide are better, but what is the problem with baking soda other than the mess it creates?

Glass jars.... friends don't let friends do that either

Yeah, the phrase Moltov cocktail comes to mind but there are lots of people using them without a problem (that I know of). I was only planning on using it for a couple of weeks until I can get the smack booster finished. I guess I'll just wait.

Spark plug non-foulers... from my research, they do not work. Get an EFIE if you need one.

I just read over the post on the non-foulers here. I was just going to try it since I had a set laying around that I was going to cut and use for bungs in a downpipe I was going to make.

Build your smack unit. It is a great learning experience and if done well, a very capable booster. Do consider buying one from The Smack himself. After all the running around I did gathering parts, ordering from McMaster-Carr and this,that and the other.... I would buy one for my next vehicle.

I like to build things and look forward to the learning process.

There is quite a bit of information on this board about these things. Out of all the places I have looked for information, this place has the best. For more information (and the white noise that goes along with it) join the two Yahoo! Groups called watercar & hydroxy. The man who makes the Smacks Booster is on them too and goes by the nickname "E" or "Electrik"

This site is very good. I also like the waterfuelforall site and panaceauniversity
I signed up at the watercar group a few days ago but didn't see the hydroxy one. I'll get on that list too.

Also, RedMeanie has a very nice DIY kit for PWM's & EFIE's. I suggest you get his if you need them.

I know. That's the one I was planning on using since the circuit is much better than any others I've come across.

I was also thinking of building a monitor for inside the vehicle to measure voltage, amperage and temperature of the booster. I'd like it all to display on a single LCD, but I've yet to come across any decent schematics. If anyone has any or finds some, please post them here. I can easily build circuits that others create but I don't (currently) have the knowledge to design my own. I did just pick up a cheap multimeter at HF to take apart and analyze since it has all the circuitry to do those things built in.