HHO in the trunk?

[RevNelson]

Hi all! I have a 2005 Ford Focus ZX5 SE and trying to stuff the Smack's Booster in it, with no way in hell it's going to fit in the engine bay.

How does putting it in the trunk with the bubbler right on the side-as per original plans- then feeding the gas line under the door trim, through the firewall, and in to the engine bay sound? Once it's in the engine bay, I'd have it go to another bubbler just before I have it go into the intake manifold.

This way, there would be two (hopefully!) stops for any potential back flashes from the engine.

This is really my only option, so I hope this doesn't sound ridiculous to you guys, but I'd love any feedback on safety or thoughts.

[Redmeanie]

Hi all! I have a 2005 Ford Focus ZX5 SE and trying to stuff the Smack's Booster in it, with no way in hell it's going to fit in the engine bay.

How does putting it in the trunk with the bubbler right on the side-as per original plans- then feeding the gas line under the door trim, through the firewall, and in to the engine bay sound? Once it's in the engine bay, I'd have it go to another bubbler just before I have it go into the intake manifold.

This way, there would be two (hopefully!) stops for any potential back flashes from the engine.

This is really my only option, so I hope this doesn't sound ridiculous to you guys, but I'd love any feedback on safety or thoughts.

No Way......Don't ever even consider putting any part of a booster inside the vehicle, and the trunk is still inside. There are more dangers than just explosion possibilities here. Trust me you can fit a "Booster" in ANY Vehicle. Just keep in mind the design used in the smacks type is just like any other Booster design. The Basic configuration is important BUT NOT Dimensions. Get creative! I have installed a Booster side ways under the Fiberglass bumper of a little Mini made by BMW. It is a completely stealthy install where the only component in the engine bay is the bubbler.
For a smaller just as effective design, look at the "Archie Blue" Style.
Also you need the Hose Runs between Booster, Bubbler, and Intake as short as possible...

[RevNelson]

Thanks for that, I guess I'll have to make it fit! Yet another run to the hardware store...

Just out of curiosity, what are the dangers of that method? Also, I'm using drain cleaner from Low's, which is labeled as 100% Lye and is pellet form. I got a multimeter from Home Depot that claims to tell amps, however I have not been able to get a read other than volts off of it. In addition, the 14 gauge wires I was using to test it from my car better get way hot to the touch after about 30 seconds of operation. I'm guessing this is because I need lower gauge wires, but just in case, do you guys have any tips for me? I'm thinking of getting a 100 amp battery charger from Auto Zone and using that as an amp meter...

[Tarkus]

Whoa Partner

Rev: It sounds to me (I may be wrong) that your not the most technical guy in the world. If this is the case I suggest you hook up with an electronics wizard/nerd or at least some one who understands test equipment and basic electrical theory. If you bought a multi meter from HD it will read Amps, read the instruction book.
A decent multi meter will cost a lot less than the battery charger and will be useful in many ways later.

Next get on line here and other places and read the warning labels on the HHO generators, and watch the You tube demonstrations, All of them.

If your having a hard time understanding the theory, methods and applications you might consider finding a mentor (someone who's done this already) to show you the ropes and help you through the rough spots.

Non of this is meant to discourage you only to point you to safe success.

Best of luck
David

[Redmeanie]

Thanks for that, I guess I'll have to make it fit! Yet another run to the hardware store...

Just out of curiosity, what are the dangers of that method? Also, I'm using drain cleaner from Low's, which is labeled as 100% Lye and is pellet form. I got a multimeter from Home Depot that claims to tell amps, however I have not been able to get a read other than volts off of it. In addition, the 14 gauge wires I was using to test it from my car better get way hot to the touch after about 30 seconds of operation. I'm guessing this is because I need lower gauge wires, but just in case, do you guys have any tips for me? I'm thinking of getting a 100 amp battery charger from Auto Zone and using that as an amp meter...

Well the danger of the other gases that could Possibly be released during Electrolysis. The first one that pops in my head is Chlorine gas, not exactly something you want to breath in. This is even possible using distilled water because the standards used to make store bought distilled water are not up to laboratory standards. But there are also dangers of fire and leaking electrolyte. This stuff can do some serious damage when things go wrong.

Next as far as using the drain cleaner it can be used, its not the best but it works. Remember it only takes a LITTLE BIT to get the amperage you will want. KOH is Ideal, and that is what pretty much everyone here on the forum uses.

As far as a Multimeter to measure amps, most throw down types you buy from the hardware stores will only go up to 10 amps. Not good enough for this. Go to a auto parts place and buy you an amperage gauge, should only cost $15 tops.

Just stick around I will be posting something for those like you, here in the forum that should answer your questions and give you a good starter set-up.

So keep your head up, your asking all the right questions, just ask them sooner and we can probably save you a BUNCH of Money!

[RevNelson]

If your having a hard time understanding the theory, methods and applications you might consider finding a mentor (someone who's done this already) to show you the ropes and help you through the rough spots.

Well, no one I know personally has even heard of this, hence my joining this forum.

The guy from Home Depot said my problem was the multimeter was good for AC, and not DC, and that was all they had. I went to AutoZone and all they had would only go up to 10 amps, except for a 100 watt battery charger that had a load gauge on the side that went from 0-15 for about 25% of guage and jumped to 100 like this:

[0--5--10--15-----------------100]

Which obviously isn't too accurate past 15 amps, but I was considering it solely because I couldn't find anything better and I'm only looking to draw 16 amps cold. However, I'll try out Napa and see if they have the simple ammeter, I'd like to mount one in my dash, anyhow.

Aside from that, I'm fairly adept with car wiring, as I've hooked up many after-market stereos for myself and friends.

RedMeanie, did you get my private message? If funds allow within this next week, I'd like to slide in for an order next Wednesday.

Thank you guys for all your help!


-Michael

[bk7777]

AMP meter

Little late but I purchased this meter off of e-bay for $95 and it works great. It works on AC as well as DC so it has uses around the house as well.

Lots of extras and worth the price.

"1000 Amp Clamp-on AC/DC Capacitance Frequency Meter NEW"

Item number: 190244764654

Hope this helps even thou it is months late.

Brian,

[gmeast]

Different designs

No Way......Don't ever even consider putting any part of a booster inside the vehicle, and the trunk is still inside. There are more dangers than just explosion possibilities here. Trust me you can fit a "Booster" in ANY Vehicle. Just keep in mind the design used in the smacks type is just like any other Booster design. The Basic configuration is important BUT NOT Dimensions. Get creative! I have installed a Booster side ways under the Fiberglass bumper of a little Mini made by BMW. It is a completely stealthy install where the only component in the engine bay is the bubbler.
For a smaller just as effective design, look at the "Archie Blue" Style.
Also you need the Hose Runs between Booster, Bubbler, and Intake as short as possible...

Hi people,

I'm new to this discussion. I've spent most of my time in the Water Sparkplug forum. I have built a Smack, but am not happy with the end plate losses and heat buildup. However, I did run tests on a gen set and proved that the gas does indeed improve efficiency by double digits even on an inefficient small air cooled generator engine. I'm now building a Sid Cell. I was wondering if anyone has had any experience with this design. It is based on commercial electrolyzer designs and uses KOH as an electrolyte too. All of the electrical connections are external to the cell and it has a very small internal residual volume ... which I think makes it safe. It is also very compact for the amount of plate area it provides. To see one just enter "Sid Cell" as a search parameter and I'm sure you'll find it.

I'll post my Generator Set data if anyone wants to see it.

Have a happy hydrogen day. Peace,

Greg

[hhoexclusive]

i have my cell setup in the trunk it was also my only option as the physical size of the unit is quite tall. you must use quality fittings to get the gas to the front of the car to eliminate leaks. i am running a meyers type alternator to drive the cell hence not much room in the front off the car i also have a decent bubbler at each end to prevent flash back. 1 bubbler in the back next to the cell and another right up by the intake it has worked a treat for me i have a rather bulky setup though, if you can change your case to get it in the engine bay it would save you some work and expense.

[rickoff]

To Rev:

Hi Rev,

There is another option not yet discussed in this thread, and that is to mount your booster above the front bumper, and in front of the grille, like I have done. It's the safest place to mount a booster, and it is where the booster will run the coolest. It also makes servicing the booster much easier. I advise mounting a second bubbler inside the engine compartment if your delivery tubing runs more than 3 feet. You may think it would spoil the looks of your vehicle mounted this way, but my experience has been that onlookers are much more interested in what it does than in what it looks like. Every time I stop to get some gas, someone always wants to know about it. Many would stand there for 20 minutes or more to talk with me about it, so I finally decided to print up a half-page handout with details and links to information stored on my Windows Sky Drive: Modified Smack Booster - Windows Live SkyDrive
Lots of useful information there, including a solution to Smack Booster overheating problems, and some photos of what those problems can lead to if not corrected with the end cap modifications that I have shown. Now I can run my Smack for 3 hours or more at 20 to 25 amps with no problems, while enjoying excellent HHO production and a 20% mpg increase. Feel free to adopt any or all of the modifications shown at the above link.

Best wishes,

Rick

[rickoff]

To David:

I like your Tarkus avatar, from the cover of the Emerson, Lake & Palmer album of the same name. A great album, and I still listen to ELP often. I've been a keyboard player most of my life, and Keith Emerson's music really inspires me.

Rick

[Papabare]

I installed mine in my trunk. I have had no problems with any leakage at all but, I have a dry cell. I believe it's important to know which type of cell you're using before coming to a conclusion about mounting. I would not recommend mounting a wet cell in the trunk. Also, do not use salt or baking soda to balance the current. Those 2 chemicals will create hexavalent chrome in your reservoir. Good luck with your project.

[HairBear]

Put the battery in the trunk and put the cell where the battery was.

[rickoff]

Yes Hair Bear, that's a much wiser solution than putting the hydroxy booster in the trunk. Any installation, or planned installation in an automobile, which uses long HHO delivery lines, or provides a possibility of Hydrogen leakage and buildup within the passenger compartment, is not only poorly thought out, but also a veritable ticking time bomb.