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"SALES INFO" Essential HHO "Booster" Components

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  • #16
    Originally posted by gashouse24326 View Post
    Thanks Red. I knew that the stuff that was on the other boards was something that could be cleaned, I just didn't know how. And one thing that I wasn't sure of was the color of the tracks on the different boards. It doesn't look like copper, but I'm kind of new to pcb work. I was going to use some of the extras to practice, but I wanted to clean them first.

    Also, what size holes, or do I just need to size them individually...you know most of the resistors will use one size and even some of the ic's and transistors. But do the switches need bigger ones. I haven't actually pulled any of the components out of the bags yet, because I was getting my rig set up. I have a dremel with a sort of drill press rig(they call it a workstation). Also, where did the boards come from...i.e. what are they made of? The reason for asking is because I've read that you need to use cobalt bits to drill pcb's because they eat up even high speed steel bits, but I saw that you recomended the regular dremel bits.

    Sorry to be such a pain, but like I've said before, I've only done projects before using breadboards or simple grid style pc boards.

    Ooooh...one more quick thing...any advice for soldering the larger guage wire to the mosfets? Does it need to be soldered directly to one of the pins, or are there connections in the printed circuit?
    Ok,
    The silver tracked boards have been "Pre-Tinned" under that layer is the copper. You definetly DON'T want to practice with these. Clean the spares and practice straight to the copper tracks. Once you have that down, soldering to the tinned boards will be a Snap!

    Finding the right size bits can be a pain. Thats why I chose to tell about the Dremel Bits. The smallest one works fine, and the next size up will work for just about everything else. Also with the Dremel bits you want to wrap a small piece of electrical tape above the Bladed Part and only extend out about a 1/4" if you try and drill with a fully extended bit, the little ones will snap right off. Also forget the stand, just do it by hand trust me! And if you have a pedal, its even easier. Just line up the bit, tap the pedal and you are through!
    Also You will notice the "Good" Boards Are Thin (0.03) I chose to go this route so none of you would have to buy expensive hard to find bits. And the Boards are made out of CEM if you still wanted to know that part....

    The Single Mosfet Board is fine just running through the PCB. The off Board Mosfets are a different story. You notice the Diagram I sent with it, WIRE IT Exactly as it is.
    When Soldering wire directly to the Mosfet you definetly want
    to use a Heat Sink Clamp (Funny little aluminum clip that comes with most soldering Irons) Solder As Quick as Possible! I have even just stuck the leges inside the insulation of the wire and soldered just the very top of the wire to the leg. This works very good and provides insulation. Just be careful not to damage the legs or Mosfet while doing it. Heat the Insulation Slightly it helps.

    Let me know if you need anything else!

    RedMeanie
    (psst...Don't Tell Anyone, But I'm Really Not Mean!)

    Comment


    • #17
      You sir, are the man. All the advice so far is good and welcome. Two more quick questions and one small comment, and I'll leave you alone until I play for a bit. The tracks on all the boards are the same color, so does that mean that they all are tinned, or will the silver come off of the ones I clean with acetone?

      What kind of wattage am I looking at for a pencil iron, or(since I happen to have one)what kind of temperature works best with these boards with a digital station?

      I'm going to have to at least try the drill press set up since it's a new toy. I don't happen to have the foot pedal, but I almost did, and now it's looking likely that in the future, IT WILL BE MINE. (hmmm...I don't see an emoticon for a comically sinister laugh).

      Thanks for the help.

      Comment


      • #18
        Originally posted by gashouse24326 View Post
        You sir, are the man. All the advice so far is good and welcome. Two more quick questions and one small comment, and I'll leave you alone until I play for a bit. The tracks on all the boards are the same color, so does that mean that they all are tinned, or will the silver come off of the ones I clean with acetone?

        What kind of wattage am I looking at for a pencil iron, or(since I happen to have one)what kind of temperature works best with these boards with a digital station?

        I'm going to have to at least try the drill press set up since it's a new toy. I don't happen to have the foot pedal, but I almost did, and now it's looking likely that in the future, IT WILL BE MINE. (hmmm...I don't see an emoticon for a comically sinister laugh).

        Thanks for the help.
        I may have sent you all tinned boards. I just took what was left over from the batch and divided them up amongst all the orders. In that case you got LUCKY! Just pick out the best looking ones to keep for the actual build and practice on the others. If they are tinned just wash them with warm soapy water and they are ready....

        A 35 watt will work, not the best but for what we are doing here it's fine. Like you I have a variable station and unfortunately it varies with Different Solders. The key is just to get one solder you like, stick with it and make a note. I know many guys who will only use one name brand, one type, one version. I on the other hand use what ever I happen to come across.
        Just practice with a spare board and you will see how simple it gets once you have your settings and get the hang of soldering again. Its just like the Proto Boards you have used before, I think even easier, especially being pre-tinned.

        On the drill press, still make sure to extend the bit out only about 1/4". Also you will see it is very difficult to try and line up the holes because it kinda gets in the way. But Hey I know what you mean, it's a new toy so give it a shot!

        The pedals, Harbor Freight has them on sale this week for $9.99 so if you have a local one, they are worth it. I have 3 of them and NO problems yet!

        RedMeanie
        (psst...Don't Tell Anyone, But I'm Really Not Mean!)

        Comment


        • #19
          Originally posted by gashouse24326 View Post
          snipped...

          Also, what size holes, or do I just need to size them individually...you know most of the resistors will use one size and even some of the ic's and transistors. But do the switches need bigger ones. I haven't actually pulled any of the components out of the bags yet, because I was getting my rig set up. I have a dremel with a sort of drill press rig(they call it a workstation). Also, where did the boards come from...i.e. what are they made of? The reason for asking is because I've read that you need to use cobalt bits to drill pcb's because they eat up even high speed steel bits, but I saw that you recomended the regular dremel bits.
          If you are looking for a "size", I used #60 and #55 plain old high speed bits. they worked fine.
          #60 fits pretty much every component, so I completely drilled the boards with it, upsizing as I went along. For example the heatsink posts on the regular PWM needed upsizing.

          Comment


          • #20
            Update!!!

            Added to the listing above....

            TIPS:

            PLEASE READ

            And let me know if I need to add something!

            RedMeanie
            (psst...Don't Tell Anyone, But I'm Really Not Mean!)

            Comment


            • #21
              Redmeanie... the 250kOhm pot is of a smaller size than the standard PWM board was designed for.
              The circuit builder should retain any wire clippings from resistors and solder one to the wiper post and use it to reach the solder pad. the others two are close enough to make fit with some bending of the posts. This is similar in implementation as the wire jumper the standard PWM requires.

              Hope this helps someone.

              Kind regards
              Tuxair

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by TuxAir View Post
                Redmeanie... the 250kOhm pot is of a smaller size than the standard PWM board was designed for.
                The circuit builder should retain any wire clippings from resistors and solder one to the wiper post and use it to reach the solder pad. the others two are close enough to make fit with some bending of the posts. This is similar in implementation as the wire jumper the standard PWM requires.

                Hope this helps someone.

                Kind regards
                Tuxair
                I should have Noticed that!

                I forgot the board was designed around older type Pot Trimmers. I will modify the tracks and solder pads.

                Thanks Tux!

                RedMeanie
                (psst...Don't Tell Anyone, But I'm Really Not Mean!)

                Comment


                • #23
                  Redmeanie

                  Are you planning on making the board files and schematics available to members here? I'd like to give a crack at etching my own PCB just for the fun of it. I've done it before using a toner transfer with photo paper. I made an air/fuel gauge and it worked well. I was going to do it with chemelec's design but I'd rather use yours if you've made improvements.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    I just corrected the Boards....Any one who has ordered that want new ones that have additional Solder Pads to fit the newer Pot Trimmers, Just PM me and I will mail you a set as soon as I can etch them.

                    RedMeanie
                    (psst...Don't Tell Anyone, But I'm Really Not Mean!)

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by cyberphreax View Post
                      Redmeanie

                      Are you planning on making the board files and schematics available to members here? I'd like to give a crack at etching my own PCB just for the fun of it. I've done it before using a toner transfer with photo paper. I made an air/fuel gauge and it worked well. I was going to do it with chemelec's design but I'd rather use yours if you've made improvements.
                      Sure just email me, c2d2@creative-concepts.us. I will send you what I have. Also is that Fuel Mixture Board one from the net, with a PCB layout included?
                      If so when you email me send that along and I can add that to the kits.

                      Thanks,
                      Lee

                      RedMeanie
                      (psst...Don't Tell Anyone, But I'm Really Not Mean!)

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Assembled.....

                        Proof that ANY Of YOU SHOULD be able to build these kits!

                        This was completely, well with a little help, Built By My 8 Yr old (Well she says almost 9 ) Daughter. Not Perfect but PRETTY Darn Good!

                        We used 60/40 solder and some helping hands to hold the board. Also be sure to use your heatsink clip on the transistors!

                        I think she did an AWESOME Job!

                        Last edited by Redmeanie; 07-22-2008, 06:53 PM.
                        RedMeanie
                        (psst...Don't Tell Anyone, But I'm Really Not Mean!)

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          That does look pretty good Red. You must be very proud. I come back for help again. Any chance of getting a part number for the rotary switch? I'm trying to look up accessories(and possibly a data sheet)for it and I"m having trouble locating anything like it in the DigiKey catalog.

                          What size wire do you recommend for the power lines and for the wires going to the switches?

                          As an aside, I don't think that I've seen it mentioned online and if it came with the nifty pages that you sent with each of the boards, then I missed it there, but thanks for leaving the tape on the ends of the zener diodes. My eyesight isn't the greatest in the world, and that was definitely a nice touch.

                          Thanks a bunch.

                          (I really need to get a sig)
                          Last edited by gashouse24326; 06-14-2008, 10:30 PM.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Originally posted by gashouse24326 View Post
                            That does look pretty good Red. You must be very proud. I come back for help again. Any chance of getting a part number for the rotary switch? I'm trying to look up accessories(and possibly a data sheet)for it and I"m having trouble locating anything like it in the DigiKey catalog.

                            What size wire do you recommend for the power lines and for the wires going to the switches?

                            As an aside, I don't think that I've seen it mentioned online and if it came with the nifty pages that you sent with each of the boards, then I missed it there, but thanks for leaving the tape on the ends of the zener diodes. My eyesight isn't the greatest in the world, and that was definitely a nice touch.

                            Thanks a bunch.

                            (I really need to get a sig)
                            What did you need to know on the switches? I source those locally, and I don't think I have ever seen a spec sheet for a rotary before. I can look into it. But if you have a question on them I can probably answer it.

                            As far as wiring goes, I use 16G for power, 22G for Signal, and 14G or 12G off of the Mosfets depending on the set-up.

                            You did get the Part ID sheets and Diagrams Right? I know how it is with the small parts, I have a hard time with them also, thats why I use those little tricks like that!

                            RedMeanie
                            (psst...Don't Tell Anyone, But I'm Really Not Mean!)

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              School Girl EFIE

                              First the School Girl Motor, now the School Girl EFIE...I love it!
                              Sincerely,
                              Aaron Murakami

                              Books & Videos https://emediapress.com
                              Conference http://energyscienceconference.com
                              RPX & MWO http://vril.io

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Originally posted by Redmeanie View Post
                                What did you need to know on the switches? I source those locally, and I don't think I have ever seen a spec sheet for a rotary before. I can look into it. But if you have a question on them I can probably answer it.

                                As far as wiring goes, I use 16G for power, 22G for Signal, and 14G or 12G off of the Mosfets depending on the set-up.

                                You did get the Part ID sheets and Diagrams Right? I know how it is with the small parts, I have a hard time with them also, thats why I use those little tricks like that!

                                I really didn't need to know anything in particular about them. Like you said, it's easy enough to look into and see most of what's going on, and anything I can't see I can use a multimeter to figure out. I just kind of like data sheets and was wondering if there was one for this switch that gave general information, like current ratings and dimensions and such in case I ever need to replace this one or want to build another unit. Well, that and I'm going to have to figure out how to connect the switch to both efie's. I always prefer to have as much knowledge about anything as I can.

                                Yeah, I did get the parts sheets and they were very helpful. In fact, the only thing you've done wrong as far as I can see is to make it so that if I screw things up, I have to live with the knowledge that I'm not as skilled as an 8 year old girl.

                                Keep up the good work.

                                Comment

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