"SALES INFO" Essential HHO "Booster" Components

[Redmeanie]

Ok,
These kits are put together with Quality components from Fairchild, National SC, and Texas Instruments, NO Garbage Components like The "Kits" that are out there!

All of These Circuits Have Been Redesigned and Modified To Be Used For HHO Generation and Operation Of HHO
Boosters

Full EFIE Kit (Fuel Mixture Control) For One O2 Sensor $22.00 US
Used To Control A/F Mixture For Fuel Injected Vehicles
Includes:
1 Cut PCB (Just needs to be drilled) ADD $3 for additional board
1 Complete Set of Electronics
1 DPDT Mini Toggle
Please Specify Which Rotary Switch You Want
1 SP 6 Position Rotary Switch (For Complete Range)
or
1 SP 3 Position Rotary Switch (For 3 Preset Setting i.e. Power, City, Highway)


Full Dual EFIE Kit (Fuel Mixture Control) For Two O2 Sensors $40 US
Includes:
(2) Cut PCB (Just needs to be drilled) ADD $3 for additional board
(2) Complete Set of Electronics
(1) 4PDT Mini Toggle
Please Specify Which Rotary Switch You Want
(1) Double Pole 6 Position Rotary Switch (For Complete Range)
or
(1) Double Pole 4 Position Rotary Switch (For 4 Preset Setting i.e. Max Power,Power, City, Highway)


Full Pulse Width Modulator Kit $19.00 US
Used To Pulse Voltage/Current To Cell. This Prevents Run Away Current and Controls Temperature of Electrolyte
Includes:
(1) Cut PCB (Just Needs to be Drilled) ADD $3 for additional board
(1) Complete Set of Electronics
(1) 50A Mosfet
(1) Heat Sink (Heavy Duty Aluminum)


Full Hi Power Pulse Width Modulator Kit $24.00 US
Used To Pulse Voltage/Current To Cell. This Prevents Run Away Current and Controls Temperature of Electrolyte
* This Version is Capable of Driving 4 Off Board Mosfets
Includes:
(1) Cut PCB (Just Needs to be Drilled) ADD $3 for additional board
(1) Complete Set of Electronics
(2) 50A Power Mosfet
(2) Heat Sinks (Heavy Duty Aluminum)

Add Additional Mosfets $6.00 US
(1) 50A Power Mosfet
(1) Heat Sink (Heavy Duty Aluminum)


Pre Drill Boards $2.00 per board
This is being offered "By Request" This is the most time consuming step, but for those who do not have access to the Proper Size Bits or Drill I will do these for you. It will add a day or two to your order.

This is the easiest way to offer Kits that way you only get what you need...

TIPS:
* Remember allot of these components are STATIC sensitive, so be careful!

** I know this isn't the most ECO Friendly route but use 60/40 solder if you can get it. It has a higher lead content so it melts faster. This will help the more inexperienced.

*** Check the tracks and pads on the PCB. If they are touching or close scrape between them with a small flat head screw driver. This can occur during tinning.

**** Practice with the spare boards first. Just practice until you get a nice little solder pad at each hole spot. If your boards have the Blue coating over the copper, just wipe it off with acetone, or nail polish remover.

Notes:

**If you can solder 2 wires together soldering a small PC board is NOT out of your capabilities....

*** I will also be throwing in spare boards so that you can practice soldering on the boards and get the hang of it BEFORE you attempt to mount the electronics.


Shipping VIA Priority Mail will be $5 for Domestic. International should contact me first to check....We are in the Houston, TX area (Pearland)

International Orders Via Priority Mail runs $18.50 if however you want me to send it via Plain Air Mail I will but it will take awhile plus there is no way to track it...

Anyone who wants these should send payment whenever they want to get these... I will only be ordering once a week on Wednesdays for the people who paid the week prior. I will not Stock Extra, I have no use for a bunch of components I might be left with.

Process:
Each Wednesday I will make orders for all received that week prior.

Each Saturday I will Make Boards.....

That following TuesDay I will ship out Everyones Order that was received that week before...

*So there should be only 2 to 3 weeks from the time you pay to the time you receive everything give or take a couple of days (Just in case my suppliers are out of stock on something and I must go to a different distributer, Rare But POSSIBLE).....

I just set up a Paypal Account Solely for this....This is also an email address you can reach me at anytime directly....
c2d2@creative-concepts.us <<<Use this for PayPal Payments as well as Contact via email..... Also if you need to speak directly to me call 832-860-6686 If I Don't Answer Leave a Message and I Will Get Back to You ASAP.

Thanks,
Lee Cribbs
Mira Cribbs

[MoHHO]

What's the difference between the PWM and the high power PWM? Why would one choose one over the other?

[Redmeanie]

What's the difference between the PWM and the high power PWM? Why would one choose one over the other?

If you are going to run 1 "Booster" cell, you only need the regular PWM. If you are going to run multiple cells (Big Block V-8 etc) or you want to run more than 30 amps continuous then the Hi Power is needed.

[Redmeanie]

Sorry for the DELAY!

Everyones Orders are ready and Packaged and will go out Via Priority Mail Tuesday Morning. As I do the Shipping on PayPal you should receive tracking numbers.



Also if you need to call me, feel free. If I dont answer PLEASE leave a message.

[Redmeanie]

Updates

Hello,
Just wanted to give out Updates.

I have Everyones Order That Placed Orders Up to A Week Ago Ready To Go Out.

I have been working on some detailed Layouts and "Visual Parts ID" Documentation for easy part recognition during assembly.

Also "TUXAIR" is going to write up a PDF for us covering EFIE Adjustment and Install. Eventually He is also Going to do a Step By Step from a "New Builders" Perspective for everyone that orders these kits.

I have just had a BAD CAse of the "PERFECTIONIST" Going on and want everyone to receive EVERY Thing they need to be successful and come out of this learning how to build there own Electronic Components. This will ONLY Help you in the future when they prevent builders from selling "Complete" Components related to HHO Production. You can thank the Dis Information Spreaders and the AHOLES out there trying to make a quick Buck By Selling DANGEROUS GARBAGE!

I also got some hosting space from my ISP so I will be putting up some PDF's, Data Sheets and other info that will be Password Protected and Private. Only the people that participate in this Forum and People I Personally Know that Actually Contribute to The HHO Endeavor will have access.

So as I Get this stuff printed your orders will go out. Just watch for an email from PayPal. If you dont want to wait a couple more days let me know and I will ship yours out now to you.

Thanks!

[TuxAir]

Thanks a bunch RedMeanie.

To everyone else. Once I receive the kits from RedMeanie, I will start off by making a step by step (pictures too) of each component as it gets built. This way we will all learn together as this thing evolves. The installation and adjustment write-ups will be a bit broader in perspective as each vehicle is different, but the concept and basic hookups should be the same. Any contributions to these write (including information borrowed from other peoples write-ups) will be properly credited.

[TuxAir]

Received the "Whole Enchilada" kit today (Thanks RedMeanie!). I'll be taking pictures and starting the build how-to soon.

A word on the kits... This is put together very well. RedMeanie went overboard in putting these kits together. Color information sheets and components are packaged separately for each board. Lots of attention to detail.

Get your Weller irons and Kester solder ready. RedMeanie made it pretty easy for you!

[ashtweth]

and i will put them in a comprehensive presentation for all
Thanks TuxAir

[truck4dog]

Got my kit Friday. Well put together and worth waiting for.

[Redmeanie]

Got my kit Friday. Well put together and worth waiting for.

Thanks!

Also if you find you were short any parts just let me know, I had my 8 yr old daughter help and she shorted Tux 1 Capacitor for the PWM....I checked all of the kits before we bagged them, I guess that one slipped by.

If anyone is missing anything just let me know and I will mail them to you

Also If you need spares or replacements, let me know what you need and I will gladly help you out!

[ashtweth]

I hope she knows she is helping dad save the planet

[TuxAir]

Not a problem RedMeanie! Lots of small parts!

I started working on the howto's but nothing is near ready yet. I will not be able to work on them this week. My son is having surgery (second cochlear implant) and I will pretty much have him sitting on my lap this week But they will be forthcoming!

@ashtweth... When ready I will contact you via PM. Thank you for your offer!

[gashouse24326]

Ok. Got the kit on Saturday and everything looks pretty darn good. I'm ready to get started, but I do have one quandary. What kind of prep needs to be done to the boards. The cut ones look pretty clean, but the spares have some kind of something on them. I know that the holes need to be drilled, the pieces inserted and soldered, but any general info on pre and post solder board work would be appreciated.

[Redmeanie]

Ok. Got the kit on Saturday and everything looks pretty darn good. I'm ready to get started, but I do have one quandary. What kind of prep needs to be done to the boards. The cut ones look pretty clean, but the spares have some kind of something on them. I know that the holes need to be drilled, the pieces inserted and soldered, but any general info on pre and post solder board work would be appreciated.

The spares with the Blue Film on them just need to be wiped down with acetone when you need them. I left it on the spares because it keeps the copper from corroding as long as its on there....

As far as prepping the Tinned Boards, just drill the holes, and clean with soapy water and you are good to go!

While soldering Boards I use a "Fine" Pencil Point Tip. It only takes a drop of solder to mount a component leg so there is no need to go overboard. Use some thin gauge solder also.

Use one of your spare boards and practice first. Get your soldering skills tuned here first. Practice until you know exactly how your Soldering Iron and the type of Solder you are using work together. Play with it until you can get a perfect little "Solder Pad" onto each component leg pad. To get an idea what you are shooting for, just look at the bottom of any random PC board with components mounted. Its really trial and error, but its also like riding a bike. Once you get the hang of it, it will be easy to do in the future.

[gashouse24326]

Thanks Red. I knew that the stuff that was on the other boards was something that could be cleaned, I just didn't know how. And one thing that I wasn't sure of was the color of the tracks on the different boards. It doesn't look like copper, but I'm kind of new to pcb work. I was going to use some of the extras to practice, but I wanted to clean them first.

Also, what size holes, or do I just need to size them individually...you know most of the resistors will use one size and even some of the ic's and transistors. But do the switches need bigger ones. I haven't actually pulled any of the components out of the bags yet, because I was getting my rig set up. I have a dremel with a sort of drill press rig(they call it a workstation). Also, where did the boards come from...i.e. what are they made of? The reason for asking is because I've read that you need to use cobalt bits to drill pcb's because they eat up even high speed steel bits, but I saw that you recomended the regular dremel bits.

Sorry to be such a pain, but like I've said before, I've only done projects before using breadboards or simple grid style pc boards.

Ooooh...one more quick thing...any advice for soldering the larger guage wire to the mosfets? Does it need to be soldered directly to one of the pins, or are there connections in the printed circuit?