"SALES INFO" Essential HHO "Booster" Components

[fritz]

Question

Red
Ordered the PWM & EFIE last week.
My plan is to put it all into a proj box for inside the car.
I know that I should have a digital amp & volt meter to keep an eye on things.
Do you have these available? or should I just order on the "bay"

I am new here... Thanx for you patience

[MoOn-BaBy]

If you have a Harbor Freight near you they have both amp and volt gauges for 5.99 each! That's where I picked up mine

ETA: Those are analog gauges, I just noticed you asked for digital. Sorry.

[Redmeanie]

Hello All,
This friday will be the LAST day I will accept orders for Kits. However, I will be offering assembled devices that I will build in my spare time, to continue to help out. THis is eating up too much of my spare time, and my own projects are suffering. I will post a link to the devices I have assembled and ready to ship.I will still be taking PayPal and will keep the pricing as affordable as possible. I did not do this for the Money, Obviously and Only intended to help out, which I will continue to do. I think this is the right thing to do for everyone. You won't have to wait for a kit, or have to worry about building or tunning them. I hate having to do this, but my free time has been eaten up and I hate making any of you wait for back orders of parts and bad coordination of ordering on my part lately.
Im glad I was given an opportunity to help everyone!

Thanks,
Lee & Mira

[wpage]

Looking Good

Ok all. I thought I'd share a few images of my EFIE project, and once again thank Red for this great setup. A little trimming to fit the boards into a Radio Shack project box, and a little soldering and planning and I have this.

Gas,
Your set up is certainly neat!

Couple of questions...

What did you do with your cut off switch's?

Any issues running back to your 2-02 sensors or power?
-Where you able to identify the wires w/o much problem

Thanks
W

[InTheField]

Request

Red,

Thanks for helping everyone. The kits are/were great. I can certainly understand other projects suffering... currently, this stuff is suffering for me because of other projects!

Anyway, I have a request if possible. Could you give us a post/thread on how you did your board etching? It's been awhile since I did any of that myself and with the newer technology available, I'm sure things have changed. A quick tutorial doc would be a great help. If you don't have time, I'm sure we'll all understand.

Again, thanks for the great kits and help.

[Redmeanie]

Red,

Thanks for helping everyone. The kits are/were great. I can certainly understand other projects suffering... currently, this stuff is suffering for me because of other projects!

Anyway, I have a request if possible. Could you give us a post/thread on how you did your board etching? It's been awhile since I did any of that myself and with the newer technology available, I'm sure things have changed. A quick tutorial doc would be a great help. If you don't have time, I'm sure we'll all understand.

Again, thanks for the great kits and help.

Sure I can do that. I use direct to board printing, which is out of most peoples reach that just want to make a couple of boards. However I will do the right up on the Simple "Home Style" that I used for many, many years. It produces professional results, it just takes a little time to do. It uses readily available (im talking Wal-Mart and Lowes) products. Its simple to do and takes about 5 minutes to produce a board. So basically start looking for some boards you want to make and be sure to share them with everyone here and I will do what you are asking.

[gashouse24326]

Switches and things

Gas,
Your set up is certainly neat!

Couple of questions...

What did you do with your cut off switch's?

Any issues running back to your 2-02 sensors or power?
-Where you able to identify the wires w/o much problem

Thanks
W

Mr Page,

If you look carefully in the second picture, you can see the toggle switch in line with the knob for the 6PDT switch(one switch for both boards). It's kind of close because I drilled the holes, put the two switches in(rotary and toggle), and then found a knob that was almost too big.

To run everything from this one location in the cab, I made pairs for everything(positive and negative for the boards' power, signal in and signal out for the O2 sensors, etc.)then taped up the pairs about every 14 inches. Since I was restricted in my choice of wire color, I used the same wire for both of the EFIE's(green and red) and both power sources(green and black). Actually, I only have one pair of wires running to a junction where I spliced the boards' positive and negative leads, since they were redundant, and I already had enough wires to try and squeeze through the firewall. I put the same thing(different colored tapes, magic marker, etc.)on both ends of a particular wired pair to distinguish it from any similar pair. That made keeping up with which pair went where a lot easier. Then I made something of a wire harness by taping all of the pairs together(big wide green tape that's used in the well drilling business)from where I wanted to put the control/display to the point where it was long enough to reach through the firewall. After coming out of the firewall, every pair split off from the group and went to where it was supposed to go.

As far as finding the wires that I was supposed to hook up to, I'm pretty sure I did, but the caveat is that I actually haven't quite finished with my installation, but it gets it's first test run tomorrow. I found the .jpg at the end of this post to be helpful. Checking with my repair manual, all of the colors were the same as on the diagram except for the one that powers the heater, which on my truck for some reason is pink instead of brown. Also, this is a view of the harness as it comes from the PCM, not from the pigtail on the O2 sensor. The pigtail is a mirror image though, so if you have this particular type of sensor or connector, just remember that the signal wire is the one that is opposite from both the alignment tab and the latch(mine happens to be blue).

I don't know if you were actually interested in all of this, but it's one of those rambling on nights. Hope this helps. Oh, btw, I grounded the EFIEs to a bracket on the engine block, which on this particular truck is designated by GMC as the place to put your negative cable when jump starting either it or another vehicle, but I'll have to wait and see how it all works out. I might have to ground closer to the sensor or on the sensor ground wire itself. I'll check the readings with my scan tool. Also, I'll put up a picture or two of the installation and tell you how the testing goes.

[toddo]

Hi Redmeanie

I have been lurking here (too busy reading to post ) for a few months now and was going to order one of your complete efie AND pwm kits once I built a decent booster. I'm sorry to see that you're not selling them anymore.

I built a bigger scale Smacks and think I have resolved some of my heat problems but realize most it is due to the open bath design. I started to install the booster on my car just to see if there's any difference in power or exhaust but now realize that I'll need an EFIE and probably PWM for the CEL and overheating problems with this this booster.

Any help at all on the electronics would be much appreciated. I know the design was based on chemelec's originals. Can you add any additional information that I should know about the design? I'm pretty good at soldering and your iron on transfer process has certainly got me thinking I could save some money making it instead of buying from eBay.

Thanks for one heck of a great forum. I have learned much here.

[MoOn-BaBy]

Could someone please dumb this down for me? I ordered the dual efie kit assembled and the high power pwm assembled....but I wasn't expecting to have to figure out how to wire in the mosfets, or the switches to the board itself.......and how do you turn the pwm off and on, esp once you put it in a box it won't be easy to acess that tiny lil trim pot......i'm so freaking lost and confused....and how are you supposed to connect the two efie boards....i wasn't expecting it to be two seperate boards either...

[MoOn-BaBy]

No one out there who's bought his kits willing to explain things for me? Seriously?

[Redmeanie]

No one out there who's bought his kits willing to explain things for me? Seriously?

Ok, Im sending a diagram to you for the rotary switch connection. I was going to draw up a diagram for the Mosfets but the page I sent with it has it laid out as simple as I can get. The yellow lines in the diagram are the Green Wires on your board. The Brown Lines are the Black ones. Look at the diagram and look at the board it should be clear. Now the Black Wire in the bottom Right is the unit Ground. And the Red wire is the unit (+). If you want to have an on off switch put it on the Red Wire. As far as adjusting the trimpot, you only need to do this once and leave it. You can put a hole in your case to access it in the future if you need to.

The switch wiring for the EFIE is listed here in this posting I will find it and post it here for you. Check back in about 10 minutes.

Sorry for the Delay in Responding....

[MoOn-BaBy]

Still waiting on that email.....and if ur talking abt the diagram on post 70, that doesn't help me, i still don't understand it....

[Redmeanie]

Still waiting on that email.....and if ur talking abt the diagram on post 70, that doesn't help me, i still don't understand it....

Here You Go.....I made a pdf just for you......

[Redmeanie]

Oh and use a multi meter to confirm the connection locations on the Rotary Switch. They can be different but that diagram gives you an idea of how they are laid out.

[MoOn-BaBy]

Ty!!!!!