Water Sparkplug

[aljhoa]

Hi all,

One of the last things I tested was running through a tank of gas using just Water Vapor and the Firestorm plugs. It was almost as good as with the plasma spark. I am certain, however, that to run on just water will require the extra energy of the plasma spark.

Greg

Keep in mind:
1. Internal Combustion Engine is a heat "locomotive".
2. A heat engine where combustion is inside the engine not like in locomotive furnace.
3. Expanding STEAM and NITROGEN push ICE piston.
4. ICE is not an explosion engine.
5. The maximum pressure must peak at 14-15 deg ATDC.
6. Plasma sparkplug adds heat beside better igniting gasoline and shortening burn cycle.
7. Plasma interacting with water or vapor creates more plasma and heat.
8. In 60degBTDC –15degATDC several ignition cycles can add more heat.
9. Plasma can have temperature grater than 14000degF.
10. Any pressure wave developed after 15deg ATDC adds to overall torque.

Al

[aljhoa]

Plasma ICE

Keep in mind:
1. Internal Combustion Engine is a heat "locomotive".
2. A heat engine where combustion is inside the engine not like in locomotive furnace.
3. Expanding STEAM and NITROGEN push ICE piston.
4. ICE is not an explosion engine.
5. The maximum pressure must peak at 14-15 deg ATDC.
6. Plasma sparkplug adds heat beside better igniting gasoline and shortening burn cycle.
7. Plasma interacting with water or vapor creates more plasma and heat.
8. In 60degBTDC –15degATDC several ignition cycles can add more heat.
9. Plasma can have temperature grater than 14000degF.
10. Any pressure wave developed after 15deg ATDC adds to overall torque.

Al

11. High Voltage Plasma and electrolysis (constant or pulsed current) brakes down water into its constituents.
12. The quality of constituents dictates plasma state (6000-14500deg F).
13. 200hp engine needs only 10-20hp to move a car at steady speed.
14. Gasoline, LPG, NG and Hydrogen burn around 3000degF inside ICE.
15. For steady driving small amount of energy is needed to heat the Nitrogen inside ICE:
a. 200hp/10 = 20 times less energy
b. 14000deg F/3000 = Quality plasma generates 4.7 times higher temperatures than other fuels
16. Between 14deg BTDC to 14deg ATDC “stationary” piston and Nitrogen pressure produce practically no torque due to crank-rod-shaft geometry.
17. The HV plasma-"water" interaction generates supersonic pressure wave that can be exploited after 15deg TDC since "water" will always be there (from gasoline as combustion by product or introduced thru intake manifold).

Al

[Web000x]

What's Up?

I just read the water spark plug "official" document from panacea and have a question about the inverter. Does anybody know the type of power inverter for a connection to an vehicle that should be used for the high transients of the plasma bursts? Since solid state is no good, I can't figure out which keywords I should look for on ebay or anywhere else.

Dave

[gmeast]

What's Up?

I just read the water spark plug "official" document from panacea and have a question about the inverter. Does anybody know the type of power inverter for a connection to an vehicle that should be used for the high transients of the plasma bursts? Since solid state is no good, I can't figure out which keywords I should look for on ebay or anywhere else.

Dave

Hi Dave,

After I designed the Vexus circuit I thought I had found the perfect circuit only to discover that it 'eats' modified sine wave inverters like the cheap ones you can get at PepBoys and so on. So, I hunted around and then someone posted a do-it-yourself 2-transistor inverter (a self oscillator) so I tried that and it worked but used a bunch of power. Then someone thankfully posted a second do-it-yourself 4-transistor inverter (another self oscillator) using complimentary pairs and one tenth the power of the first. These transistor inverters stood up to the 'slam' and riggors of creating the plasma spark. It still might be on my YouTube channel, I took most of them down. Let me know, if it's not there then I'll give you the address of some pictures and schematics ... the exact ones that ran in my VW Bug.

Greg

[wojwrobel]

hello

its my first post here and i would like to add my 2 cents

first - trying to replicate a meyer patent is very hard because he is so obsest with the patent protection so only he have knowlage to reproduce this patent

so what i suggest is to try to replicate other patent wich do the same job

for example this patent US7198208 does the same thing that meyers patents but its very clear in detail how to reproduce this "effect" please take a look

Patent US7198208

sorry for my english

cheers from poland
wojsciech

[maxc]

Has anyone thought for taping off the 130dc power in the inverter. Run into an SCR then though a high voltage cap then too coil pos and neg too ground.
Put a zenor on the DC output too ground for protection on the inverter. Dis connect the secondary wire in the coil and have a full wave bridge on the output too the "plug"ether pos or neg ion. Float or not float the ground. Fire the SCR for multi-spark for the best for the Q of the curcuit.
Haven't tryed it.
I do have plans for a simple cd ignition that can be modded for muti-spark high current.
Might keep inverters for burning up.

[Turbo98]

Spark plugs aren't made to go to .5 joule, let alone 1 joule, once you get up to around .5, expect extremely rapid deterioration.

Even .5 joule is too far. The plug materials simply cannot handle it.

I just pulled a set of resistorless(test) Brisk Premium LGS plugs(HO14LGS) out of my test engine today, and they'd done less than 5000klm, yet the silver electrodes were drastically eaten away, which simply tells me that they don't like the power output of the RPG 4700 radiant plasma unit, which runs a 4.7 UF cap.

I'll ask the questions of Brisk as per the purity of their silver, as my custom made silver electrode FireStorms still appear as new after 10,000klm, so yeah, this was a surprise.

I'd even retarded the timing by 2 degrees(from factory), but alas, that wasn't enough to save them.

Hope this helps...

Did you document any mileage and/or power increases when using the RPG and Brisk plug set-up?

[rosco1]

RPG4700 and Brisk Premium LGS plugs.

Did you document any mileage and/or power increases when using the RPG and Brisk plug set-up?

I went through my figures just the other day actually(odometer), and the Brisk resistorless HO14LGS did only 1400klm prior to being pulled, don't know where I got that 5000klm figure from. Honestly can't say that the Brisks gave any more than the FireStorms are giving.

I do note that my FireStorms are still hanging in there, and the ball tip still appears as new, whereas the Brisk electrodes were all chewed down to needles. Interesting.

I was getting 370klm per 45ltrs, up from the standard 230klm per 45ltrs, but the engine was protesting with noticeable pinging as well as a generally louder operating noise. No amount of water/methanol or timing retardation seemed to aid this problem.

When I'd apply moderate to heavy throttle, the engine made quite a bit more noise than I was happy with, which is why I opted to tune back to a richer environment, whereupon, the noise all but went away, yet at the expense of about 50lkm in range. Can't really say the power dropped off by much, or if it did, it wasn't really noticeable.

You're in Oz aren't you?

If you have a red 202 Holden engine, just add a Bosch HEI, the RPG4700, then fit a bigger carby. You might get away with just knocking off the earth straps on a set of cheap and nasty plugs.

I fitted a 34ADM Weber, fully reconditioned and still jetted to suit the 250 cube Ford engine it was taken from, yet even this is running too lean on plasma, and really could stand to be jetted up a little more.

Make no mistake, the HP is way up from standard, and if you're in Melbourne I'd show it to you. Most people think it's a warm little V8, not a stock standard inline 6 cylinder. It does go well. I like it the way it is now.

[rosco1]

Further...

I should add that once you start mucking around, as I have, you'll run into problems with the vacuum advance swinging too fast, so rather than stroke around changing out the related springs and rods and diaphragms etc, just fit a fish tank air valve to the vacuum advance line near the vacuum advance module.

You can quickly and easily restrict the vacuum to the module this way and get away with it. Sure beats mucking around with all the other advance module tricks.

[Turbo98]

I went through my figures just the other day actually(odometer), and the Brisk resistorless HO14LGS did only 1400klm prior to being pulled, don't know where I got that 5000klm figure from. Honestly can't say that the Brisks gave any more than the FireStorms are giving.

I do note that my FireStorms are still hanging in there, and the ball tip still appears as new, whereas the Brisk electrodes were all chewed down to needles. Interesting.

I was getting 370klm per 45ltrs, up from the standard 230klm per 45ltrs, but the engine was protesting with noticeable pinging as well as a generally louder operating noise. No amount of water/methanol or timing retardation seemed to aid this problem.

When I'd apply moderate to heavy throttle, the engine made quite a bit more noise than I was happy with, which is why I opted to tune back to a richer environment, whereupon, the noise all but went away, yet at the expense of about 50lkm in range. Can't really say the power dropped off by much, or if it did, it wasn't really noticeable.

You're in Oz aren't you?

If you have a red 202 Holden engine, just add a Bosch HEI, the RPG4700, then fit a bigger carby. You might get away with just knocking off the earth straps on a set of cheap and nasty plugs.

I fitted a 34ADM Weber, fully reconditioned and still jetted to suit the 250 cube Ford engine it was taken from, yet even this is running too lean on plasma, and really could stand to be jetted up a little more.

Make no mistake, the HP is way up from standard, and if you're in Melbourne I'd show it to you. Most people think it's a warm little V8, not a stock standard inline 6 cylinder. It does go well. I like it the way it is now.

I'm in the U.S.

I was just curious if you saw an increase in mileage/performance with plasma in general; albeit, the RPG set up ate your Brisk plugs.

[rosco1]

yes

I'm in the U.S.

I was just curious if you saw an increase in mileage/performance with plasma in general; albeit, the RPG set up ate your Brisk plugs.

Well, when you run a HI6 and PS91, you're pretty well up there as far as spark energy goes, so beating that isn't viewed as necessary. I added the RPG anyway, and I'm not sorry I did, however, knowing what I know now, I'd go about it differently if I had to do it again.

Right now I have an expensive HI6 and PS91 doing nothing but taking up space in my car, as they are being surpassed by the RPG, whereas I could have saved a bundle and just gone straight for the RPG.

I put a switch on my RPG, and when I turn it on, I still get a slight idle increase and a slight vacuum pressure increase.

My tail pipe odour is further decreased from what the HI6 and PS91 system delivers too. I can leave the car running and you'd never know as there is virtually no odour now, and that's with an overjetted carburetter, as mentioned above.

I still think the answer is to jet the carb up even further, as the plasma can, and does, ignite more fuel per stroke.

My aim was economy initially, and along with it came the extra HP, so I can't complain, as I am getting a significant economy increase as well as the extra HP.

Ok, the problem with the RPG eating the plugs, well, you can only go so far with normal spark plug materials, and where you gain in one area, you lose in another, so taking all the variables into account, we went ahead and developed a dedicated plasma spark plug, designed to operate in a very high powered plasma environment, and it's proven itself to be a good plug (it NEVER missfires and appears to show no signs of wear with plasma), however, the 4.7UF capacitor in the RPG is now too small to fire this exotic monster properly. Like I said, you win some, then you lose some.

We've asked for a bigger RPG to be made, with interchangeable capacitors , so we can fit whatever cap value we want, for whatever purpose we decide to employ it against. This monster ignition is currently in the final stages of development, so we should have it on hand in the new year, so then we'll be able to employ some serious plasma, like up to 12.5 joule(120 microfarad), if we wish.

Please appreciate that I'm not at liberty to say too much about all this, as there are non disclosure agreements in place.

Like I said earlier, if you knock off the earth straps from a set of cheap and nasty plugs, and fire them with an RPG, you should come out of it ok. If you want to go mad and run energy that will vaporize diamond, melt tungsten, vaporize holes in pistons etc, then you'll have to wait until we get this new system cracking.

[Turbo98]

Hmmm... That's some serious ignition energy. I'm curious how this turns out.

[Turbo98]

Like I said earlier, if you knock off the earth straps from a set of cheap and nasty plugs, and fire them with an RPG, you should come out of it ok. If you want to go mad and run energy that will vaporize diamond, melt tungsten, vaporize holes in pistons etc, then you'll have to wait until we get this new system cracking.

Did you run the RPG with plugs with the ground electrode cut off? That translates to a pretty large plug gap. I thought the manufacturer of the RPG doesn't recommend a gap this large as it could cause the unit to arc internally or fry the internal diode. Just curious...

[rosco1]

Plug gaps.

Did you run the RPG with plugs with the ground electrode cut off? That translates to a pretty large plug gap. I thought the manufacturer of the RPG doesn't recommend a gap this large as it could cause the unit to arc internally or fry the internal diode. Just curious...

I run my RPG in "bypass" mode, meaning I use 1 x 16KVA microwave oven blocking diode per spark plug.

Aquapulser suggest a 5mm gap as the extreme limit, you won't get anywhere near that by taking the earth strap off a plug, just make sure you select a plug that physically suits what you're intending to use it for.

I mostly use my FireStorm replications, which have a fairly large gap, though to quote that gap for you, I'd have to rummage through hundreds of archived emails to find the exact measurements, same goes for the super plugs, they have a wide gap too, though none of these gaps I'm talking about are quite as wide as it would be on a stripped (of earth strap) plug.

Don't worry about the gap on a stripped plug, it would still equate to less than the 5mm outer limit as specified by Aquapulser, probably be about 3-4mm, likely closer to 3mm.

If you strip a plug, remember, it will fire radially from that time on, using the side of the electrode instead of the factory cut off top part, firing back to the plug base, which is a much better arrangement then it ever was before. Take your time and file down the weld where the earth strap was located, this will then give you an equidistant(360 degree) firing potential, and the plasma will enjoy that.

Take care and choose a plug that has the electrode and electrode ceramic sitting just proud of the plug base by a couple of millimetres, so that when you knock off the strap, it will present a firing arrangement where the plasma fires backwards by about 100-120 degrees, in the shape of a backward umbrella, if you get my meaning. Actually, it will fire backwards to about the same angle as what a Brisk Premium LGS plug does, so look at this carefully and make it work to your advantage.

You won't ever overcome missfires using normal plugs, but you will greatly improve the firing potential of a cheap and nasty plug, which can be beneficial to your wallet.

My advice to you is, if you're seriously thinking of going down this road, then buy or make yourself a suitable pressurised spark plug testing chamber and do a bunch of tests for yourself, you'll be surprised at what you learn along the way.

[Turbo98]

Ok. Thanks for the help with the plugs. That makes sense.