Water Sparkplug

[gmeast]

more clarity please

@ lapperl

I emailed Bill (the Nexus circuit video/.pdf guy) a copy of your diagram revision.
Here was his response:

The diodes in the 60 string are going in the wrong direction.
The ground for the capacitor should be to the battery, NOT to the 120 hot!
Cripes
When you geter done, could I have a copy for the PDF?
Much better than mine
Regards,
Bill

So... If you're willing.... please revise again and I will keep this going until it's "approved" and confirmed .... then he will update his .pdf to include your revision!

Let's stay on top of this as it will help all and keep him from getting a 'million' emails!
thanks

Hi all,

In Bill's circuit he shows the choke being on the HOT side of the inverter, then going to the minus side of the Cap and Ground ("connect directly to the engine block"). This creates the relative connection of the inverter to the vehicle Ground by anchoring one side of the output circuitry solidly to the vehicle Ground. This is also common to the Spark Plug Grounds.

One thing is unclear to me however. Can the 'neutral' and 'hot' outputs of the inverter be swapped in the set up? I know some small inverters are isolated and some home power inverters have the output neutral relating to battery minus. I've only used utility AC for these experiments and have always used an isolation transformer to protect my scope.

In the revised, I'm not sure about needing the full string of 60 diodes any longer since each of the separate strings going to its respective spark plug can serve a dual purpose of blocking cross coupling and current steering. Of course you'd have to add more in each separate string as you decreased the number in the single long string.

I'm inclined to try this on my Generator set up since I can mount multiple points on the timing plate.

Peace,

Greg

[Jetijs]

Hi all
I finally finished my timing setup. Here is a picture:



This setup allows me to adjust the timing up to 60 degree before and after TDC. It uses a small optoswitch that is glued to a aluminum piece that can slide around the perimeter using a deepening in the aluminum plate. Will test it soon.
Thanks,
Jetijs

[goldenequity]

Hi all,

In Bill's circuit he shows the choke being on the HOT side of the inverter, then going to the minus side of the Cap and Ground ("connect directly to the engine block"). This creates the relative connection of the inverter to the vehicle Ground by anchoring one side of the output circuitry solidly to the vehicle Ground. This is also common to the Spark Plug Grounds.

One thing is unclear to me however. Can the 'neutral' and 'hot' outputs of the inverter be swapped in the set up? I know some small inverters are isolated and some home power inverters have the output neutral relating to battery minus. I've only used utility AC for these experiments and have always used an isolation transformer to protect my scope.

In the revised, I'm not sure about needing the full string of 60 diodes any longer since each of the separate strings going to its respective spark plug can serve a dual purpose of blocking cross coupling and current steering. Of course you'd have to add more in each separate string as you decreased the number in the single long string.

I'm inclined to try this on my Generator set up since I can mount multiple points on the timing plate.

Peace,

Greg

Hi Greg...
Just to keep you updated..... it's a current work in progress.... lapperll and inventor/Bill are dialoguing via email and diagram revisions back and forth to make sure it's exactly "as built". I stepped out of the loop to let them correspond directly.

Lapperll will then post the "approved" diagram and be able to clarify most of your questions. Groundloop is awaiting this "final" version as well at overunity.com

I'm sure people with an Oscope will be able to nail down exactly how many diodes will actually be necessary once it's replicated.... getting rid of the inverter would be on people's minds as well.... till then... probably no "clarity" until lapperll posts the final draft.

randy

@ Jetijs
That is a work of art....

[Gre]

Has anyone tried frequencies like 42.8 khz or 13.561 mhz (kanzius)
Plasma oscillation - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

[gmeast]

new video of enhanced spark on low power

Hi Greg...
Just to keep you updated..... it's a current work in progress.... lapperll and inventor/Bill are dialoguing via email and diagram revisions back and forth to make sure it's exactly "as built". I stepped out of the loop to let them correspond directly.

Lapperll will then post the "approved" diagram and be able to clarify most of your questions. Groundloop is awaiting this "final" version as well at overunity.com

I'm sure people with an Oscope will be able to nail down exactly how many diodes will actually be necessary once it's replicated.... getting rid of the inverter would be on people's minds as well.... till then... probably no "clarity" until lapperll posts the final draft.

randy

@ Jetijs
That is a work of art....

Hi everyone.,

Thanks. Now I've posted a video showing the water spark plug effect on lower voltage than most experimenters are using. You might find it interesting.

The video address is:
YouTube - parallel diodes in water spark plug circuit

Peace,

Greg

P.S.

Plus the progress on my generator. You can see the adjustment slots on the sensor plate to which I'll mount the reeds switches and the hub with 3 holes for mounting the rotor that will carry the magnet. I'll be able to use just about any affector/sensor arrangement ... I hope.

[sirmikey1]

Peter Lindemann about Stanley Meyers patent

Peter Lindemann about Stanley Meyers patent
YouTube - Peter Lindemann about Stanley Meyers patent

[Gre]

A couple more interesting links.


NexusPlasma01.wmv

http://skyhero.com/Cozzco%20Plasma%20Arc%20Circuit.pdf

[gmeast]

great video

Peter Lindemann about Stanley Meyers patent
YouTube - Peter Lindemann about Stanley Meyers patent

Hi sirmikey1,

Thanks for posting that video. These are very exciting times. I remember the days when you could only gain access to this information by clipping out and mailing a 1 inch square add from the back pages of Popular Science or Popular Mechanics magazine.

Peace all,

Greg

[K1w1]

Gregs vid

I can't get your video to load but Peters analysis of the Meyer patent is working.

[gmeast]

gregs video

I can't get your video to load but Peters analysis of the Meyer patent is working.

Hi K1w1,

I just tried it and it's working. It's been very busy at YouTube but I don't think that's the reason. If you can't view it, I'll re-post it. Folks from O.U. Forum have viewed it. I'm sorry. Keep trying. Let me know.

Thanks. Peace,

Greg

[Gibs]

Nice work Greg

Can't wait to see that gen putting out some usable amps by running on water alone.

Keep up guys


United we stand.
Pink Floyd

[Jetijs]

Hi all
I made a quick bench test on the water spark plug circuit before installing it on my gas generator. I used Aarons booster cap method with the booster caps charged to about 550V. Everything seems to work fine. So I tried to install the whole thing on my generator, but at first without the booster side and with the spark plug outside of the engine to see if the spark fires as it should. This is the exact circuit I used:



The problem is that the SCR does not trigger. It is strange. If I hook up a voltmeter on the output transistor of the ITR8102, I can see 12V when the timing gap goes between the switch, so no problems there. Then I hooked the voltmeter between the PR26MF21NSZ input LED cathode and the negative battery terminal and I see 11.4V, so I suppose everything is right, but the SCR does not fire. If I tap the battery terminals directly on the PR26MF21NSZ input LED wires, the SCR triggers without problems, even if I use a run down 12v battery that only gives 9V. I even tried to reduce the PR26MF21NSZ input LED resistor to 500Ohms - no change.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Jetijs

[citfta]

Jetijs, I noticed the PR26MF21SNZ is connected to the emitter side of the output transistor of the ITR8102. Can it be connected to the collector side of the output transistor of the PR26MF21SNZ? Most npn transistors work better if the load is on the collector side. Good luck, citfta

[CPU3rother]

Electron extraction and implosion solution.

It has been suggested that the effect is causing the separation of water, which expands a great number of multiples. As it expands outward from the plug it should reform. If this dose end up presenting a problem in an ICE. Supplying ionized air or other gas to the intake rather than ambient air might be a solution. Ozone would likely also work to extract electrons but it is much more corrosive than ionized air. You could essential mount and Ionic air cleaner in place of an air filter on whatever engine you are using. Just remember to make sure you use one that produces the correct polarity ions. This along with the use of a humidifier and should provide ab ideal situation for water to explode without imploding.

Hope this helps.

[gmeast]

triggering

Hi all
I made a quick bench test on the water spark plug circuit before installing it on my gas generator. I used Aarons booster cap method with the booster caps charged to about 550V. Everything seems to work fine. So I tried to install the whole thing on my generator, but at first without the booster side and with the spark plug outside of the engine to see if the spark fires as it should. This is the exact circuit I used:

The problem is that the SCR does not trigger. It is strange. If I hook up a voltmeter on the output transistor of the ITR8102, I can see 12V when the timing gap goes between the switch, so no problems there. Then I hooked the voltmeter between the PR26MF21NSZ input LED cathode and the negative battery terminal and I see 11.4V, so I suppose everything is right, but the SCR does not fire. If I tap the battery terminals directly on the PR26MF21NSZ input LED wires, the SCR triggers without problems, even if I use a run down 12v battery that only gives 9V. I even tried to reduce the PR26MF21NSZ input LED resistor to 500Ohms - no change.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Jetijs

Hi Jetijs,

How are you doing? I know if I don't feed my Triacs their required minimums then they sputter. I must supply 12v and 50ma minimum to solidly trigger them. So I'm using reed switches until I have time to become proficient with opto, transient and gate driver components.

I would look to citfta's suggestion to try and get some more 'snap' out of your triggering circuit.

Good luck. Peace,

Greg