Water Sparkplug

[goldenequity]

It has been suggested that the effect is causing the separation of water, which expands a great number of multiples. As it expands outward from the plug it should reform. If this dose end up presenting a problem in an ICE. Supplying ionized air or other gas to the intake rather than ambient air might be a solution. Ozone would likely also work to extract electrons but it is much more corrosive than ionized air. You could essential mount and Ionic air cleaner in place of an air filter on whatever engine you are using. Just remember to make sure you use one that produces the correct polarity ions. This along with the use of a humidifier and should provide ab ideal situation for water to explode without imploding.

Hope this helps.

Interesting thought.... is there a small but powerful Ionic air flow device?
Can one be fabricated? any schematics?
If so, why don't you start a new thread on this and expound on your ideas there.... it sounds credible and a possible answer to the implosion/explosion dilemna.

[gmeat]

Hi Everyone,


I found an interesting web site that kind of pertains to this thread with some interesting pics of the ball lightning.Hope all enjoy.

blshow.swf - Ball lightning show


-Gary

[insane4evr]

Hi all
The problem is that the SCR does not trigger. It is strange. If I hook up a voltmeter on the output transistor of the ITR8102, I can see 12V when the timing gap goes between the switch, so no problems there. Then I hooked the voltmeter between the PR26MF21NSZ input LED cathode and the negative battery terminal and I see 11.4V, so I suppose everything is right, but the SCR does not fire. If I tap the battery terminals directly on the PR26MF21NSZ input LED wires, the SCR triggers without problems, even if I use a run down 12v battery that only gives 9V. I even tried to reduce the PR26MF21NSZ input LED resistor to 500Ohms - no change.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Jetijs

Hi Jetijs,
I looked at the datasheet of the ITR8102. Please check pinout for the output transistor (which one is collector and which one is emitter). If the gap is un-covered, output transistor voltage between its emitter and collector should be less than one as it is conducting. Note output transistor has a max current rating of 20 mA. so don't go lower than 500 ohms for its current limiting resistor.

Also, galium arsenide LED in the ITR8102 is sensitive to overvoltage when reversed (max is 5 volts).

Also, try lowering ITR8102 LED load resistor to maybe 560 ohms, so LED current is closer to 20 mA.

Also, If the PR26MF21NSZ input LED is conducting, the voltage across it should be less than 2 volts.

[ashtweth]

Interesting thought.... is there a small but powerful Ionic air flow device?
Can one be fabricated? any schematics?
If so, why don't you start a new thread on this and expound on your ideas there.... it sounds credible and a possible answer to the implosion/explosion dilemna.

Guys, dont want to deviate from teh suibject matter, but since we are talking about plasma electrolysis theories, have any body looked at the black light power papers? they assert that there is a ground state of hydrogen before monatomic. Plasma electrolysis

This is where the plasma comes from i think.

Ash

[Jetijs]

Thanks citfta, Greg and insane4evr

citfta, I tried your suggestion and swapped the PR26MF21SNZ and the ITR8102 around, but the result is the same.
insane4evr, I tried to lower both resistor values to 500 Ohms and still nothing. I checked the IR LED on the ITR8102, it works fine. I checked it using a digital photo camera that has no IR filter so I can see when the LED is ON or OFF.
This is weird because the switching seems to work fine, at least judging by the ITR8102 output transistor voltage relative to the ground, but why is that not enough to trigger the PR26MF21SNZ? Maybe the resistors are too big and not much current can flow though the PR26MF21SNZ input LED, but I lowered the resistor value to the recommended minimum and nothing changed.
What else could I try?

Edit: I just tried to attach a big 10mm LED instead of the PR26MF21SNZ. This big LED consumes about 30mA and if it lights up, that means that the ITR8102 has no problems with delivering enough current. And it did light up. So why doesn't the PR26MF21SNZ switch if it can get 12v and at least 30mA out of the ITR8102? But it does switch if I attach the PR26MF21SNZ input LED wires directly to the 12v battery (through a 500-1k resistor of course).
weird...

Here is the circuit once more so you don't have to browse between pages:


Thanks,
Jetijs

[mrbreau]

Datasheet

Jetijs? Here is a link to the datasheet I just pulled up. Be sure to read the "design guide" at the bottom.

Link; PR26MF21NSZ datasheet pdf datenblatt - Sharp Electrionic Components - IT(rms)¡Â0.6A, Zero Cross type DIP 8pin Triac output SSR ::: ALLDATASHEET :::

Warren
..

"When a man's knowledge is not in order; the more of it he has, and the greater will be his confusion." Herbert Spencer

[Gibs]

Current input

Hi all

...The problem is that the SCR does not trigger. It is strange. If I hook up a voltmeter on the output transistor of the ITR8102, I can see 12V when the timing gap goes between the switch, so no problems there. Then I hooked the voltmeter between the PR26MF21NSZ input LED cathode and the negative battery terminal and I see 11.4V, so I suppose everything is right, but the SCR does not fire. If I tap the battery terminals directly on the PR26MF21NSZ input LED wires, the SCR triggers without problems, even if I use a run down 12v battery that only gives 9V. I even tried to reduce the PR26MF21NSZ input LED resistor to 500Ohms - no change.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Jetijs

Hi Jetijs,
First, just to make shure that I get this right, did you meant "between anode and ground" ? (what is bolded in quote)

Second, I took a look at the datasheet that Mrbreau have sent and it seems that the diode input of your PR26MF21NSZ needs about 50 ma to operate well, so maybe you will have to replace the 1 kohms resistor by a 240 ohms one. Most of the infrared LED's pull more current than ordinary LED's.

But before trying a lower value resistor I suggest you to take a look at the current input on datasheet.

Keep up the good work.

[Jetijs]

Hi Jetijs,
First, just to make shure that I get this right, did you meant "between anode and ground" ? (what is bolded in quote)

Hi Gibs,
yes, you are right, I meant Anode and ground
I made some other tests. I hooked an amp meter in series with the PR26MF21NSZ resistor and it shows 5mA. That is way too low for the PR26MF21NSZ LED to open fully. If I reduce the 1k resistance to 500 Ohms, than the amp meter shows 5.4mA. Will try to lower the resistance some more and if this does not work, I will replace the PR26MF21NSZ. Then we will see
Thank you all for your suggestions

[Gibs]

Precisions

Hi Jetijs,
I went back to the datasheet and it says "absolute maximum rating 50 ma".

Considering the supply voltage at 12 volts and the led voltage around 1.3 volts, your resistor have to drop 10.7 volts, divided by 220 ohms equals not far from 50 ma. Because we know that 12 volts is theoretical and the reality is more like 14.4 volts (charging circuit voltage), that means more like a 13.1 volts drop. So I would never go under 270 ohms.

[insane4evr]

Hi Gibs,
yes, you are right, I meant Anode and ground
I made some other tests. I hooked an amp meter in series with the PR26MF21NSZ resistor and it shows 5mA. That is way too low for the PR26MF21NSZ LED to open fully. If I reduce the 1k resistance to 500 Ohms, than the amp meter shows 5.4mA. Will try to lower the resistance some more and if this does not work, I will replace the PR26MF21NSZ. Then we will see
Thank you all for your suggestions

Seems that the ITR8102 is not delivering enough current.
Doing some rithmetic for ohms law:
If the output transistor of the ITR is fully on, it will drop ~.4 volt. The drop in the LED of the PR26 is ~1.2 volt. So, 12 - .4 - 1.2 = 10.4 volts roughly. 10.4 / 1K = 10.4 mA. 10.4 / 500 = 20.8 mA. What you are reading is much lower.

With ITR gap uncovered. Use voltmeter between 12 volt ground and ITR transistor emitter, and measure voltage should be theoretically 12 - .4 or 11.6 volts. Then measure between 12 volt ground and PR26 LED anode, shoudl theoretically be 1.2 volts.

Also PR26 datasheet page 9 show recommended operating conditions for its LED as 20 mA Min and 25 mA Max for device marked Rank 1. and 10 mA Min and 15 mA Max for Rank 2.
Have to check operating frequency 60 Hz max? How does this translate to your setup.

[Jetijs]

Hi all. I don't know where I got the 20mA using a 10mm LED on the output of the ITR8102, but I tried that test again and this time I could get max 6mA going through the LED. It was just as bright as before, I suppose I made a mistake in the earlier test. I tried to reduce the 10mm LED's resistance and got nothing more than 6mA. Then I shorted the ITR8102 output transistor emitter directly to the ground via an amp meter. It still showed only 6mA. I suppose that means that the ITR8102 is dead. It's a shame, because that was my last one and the store doesn't have them, will need to order them and wait for a week or so

[insane4evr]

Orientation

Sometimes when I assemble things, I make orientations mistakes. Hope the attached helps.

[gmeast]

video: multiple spark plug CDI plasma ignition

Hi all,

I have posted a video demonstrating the CORE water spark plug principles as applied to multiple spark plugs. This is NOT the Nexus circuit. It operates as a CDI system like the original isolated circuit brought to us by Gotoluc and demonstrated by Peter Lindemann and also replicators from all around.

The circuit below is the exact circuit as used in the video. It uses 3 HV diodes in parallel (NTE517) per plug ... visible in the video. The circuit does not need a beefy choke (MOT) primary. It will produce a bright plasma discharge on 12 uf. I'm using 47uf in these tests because I like to blow up water.

The video is at:
YouTube - multiple spark plug CDI plasma ignition


Enjoy. Peace,

Greg

[Jetijs]

Great video, Greg
Thank you for sharing

[gmeast]

Thanks

Great video, Greg
Thank you for sharing

Hello Jetijs,

Thanks for watching. Have you made progress on your control issue? From your descriptions, it sound systemic. Are you sure you don't have a ground or isolation conflict? I've been scratching my head trying to figure out a suggestion that might help.

Please keep us posted. Peace,

Greg