Water Sparkplug

[GotGas]

@ Jetijs or anybody for that matter:

An ignition coil circuit needs a resistor on the coil to work properly. Some coils have them internally and some will even state on the coil what they need. Usually it is a big sand block about 8 ohms or so,

[rickoff]

UPDATED info

Hi folks,

Please see my last post in this thread (#73), which I have edited to include links to a photo showing what was inside the mysterious silver cup that appeared in the YouTube videos showing sir9a9m9 running the 18 hp engine on water. I have posted the photo, and a close-up of it, along with an rtf file and pdf file showing s1r's description of the device. This is key to getting an engine to run on water. It's the part Gotoluc didn't know about when he built his s1r9a9m9 replication, because it was hidden from view by the silver cup. Note also that s1r9a9m9 has promised to release a new video within the next few days that will make everything clearer, but there is already enough shown in the photo and documents to enable proper modification of the Gotoluc circuit to achieve a plasma spark capable of running an engine.

Jetijs - don't worry about the inverter. S1r9a9m9 saysthat you don't need an inverter, and in fact can't use it with his step-up transformer. The transformer is so simple that it will make you laugh (it's just a single common nail core, with three short coils wrapped on it), but we have all seen that it does the job, and it is the missing link in the circuits that everyone is experimenting with. Check it out!

Best to everyone, Rickoff

[Redmeanie]

Hi folks,

Please see my last post in this thread (#73), which I have edited to include links to a photo showing what was inside the mysterious silver cup that appeared in the YouTube videos showing sir9a9m9 running the 18 hp engine on water. I have posted the photo, and a close-up of it, along with an rtf file and pdf file showing s1r's description of the device. This is key to getting an engine to run on water. It's the part Gotoluc didn't know about when he built his s1r9a9m9 replication, because it was hidden from view by the silver cup. Note also that s1r9a9m9 has promised to release a new video within the next few days that will make everything clearer, but there is already enough shown in the photo and documents to enable proper modification of the Gotoluc circuit to achieve a plasma spark capable of running an engine.

Jetijs - don't worry about the inverter. S1r9a9m9 saysthat you don't need an inverter, and in fact can't use it with his step-up transformer. The transformer is so simple that it will make you laugh (it's just a single common nail core, with three short coils wrapped on it), but we have all seen that it does the job, and it is the missing link in the circuits that everyone is experimenting with. Check it out!

Best to everyone, Rickoff

Rick,
I downloaded that image of the drawing and cleaned it up....I also converted it to B&W and its very clear. If you want I will email it to you so you can put that one up instead. Just pm me and give me an address to send it...

[Aaron]

Spark Plug Temperature Drop

Thanks Rick for posting these updates. Very interesting indeed!

This method is different from Luc's method and appears more powerful if it is able to run a car better (so far). However, Luc's method has shown some things that some people have a hard time believing in my explanation.

I have a Goldstar OS 9020-A...not a Rolls Royce but gives me what I need. Has anyone scoped the cap to prove to themselves the activity of what the personality of the cap is while dumping to the ignition coil? How many times is something happening per pulse, etc...?

I am now using a 5A 150V variac...the output of variac...one lead to bridge and other lead to light bulb and light bulb to bridge...bulb is 110V 40W and limits current quite well. I can crank it up no problem.

Anyway, I just posted this for fun:
YouTube - Water Spark Plug | Radiant Energy | Temperature Drop
Temperature drops on plug spark 7 degrees when running a couple seconds.

[GotGas]

I don't think that is quite right Aaron and here is why. The temperature goes back up 7 degrees instantly after it is stopped. It's one thing to suspect that your circuit does something new but the universe is pretty reliable when it come to thermodynamics. :-)

It's that whole "I will see it when I believe it thing. Last night I got two jumper wires to my scope reversed and for 36 seconds was the most gifted electrical engineer on Earth. I had invented the bifilar coil distributed capacitance pulse inverter... And I do mean it was a perfect square wave inverter with zero loss. Then I noticed my reversed wires and got some sleep. It happens to all of us, you are working too hard, take a day off.

I think what we have here is just a emf problem with the temp probe. Move it back as far as possible, wrap the temp probe in Al foil and earth ground that. I suspect the temp reading might be a bit different and the universe will go back to emitting heat normally. :-) God I'm funny...

[Tarkus]

??? Spark Plugs ???

Non resistor plugs seem to be in extreme short supply.
Auto parts stores don't carry them any more (at least the ones I've stopped at)
? Which manufacturers can we take apart to remove resistor?

Gota love so called progress, hindering progress

[rick123]

Checkers: Box reads: Autolite 64. On the plug: Champion RJ12YC

[rickoff]

More new information on s1r9a9m9 transformer coil

Hi folks,

Another member at waterfuel1978, XboxHacker, has created a diagram of s1r9a9m9's step-up transformer coil. I have added that to my Sky Drive files, and you can see it here:
coil_setup.png - Windows Live SkyDrive [Update - while the referenced diagram is nearly correct, the leads as shown on coil #3 are in reverse of how S1r's are actually connected.]
The core material is a galvanized 20 penny (4 inch) common nail. The MAIN winding is 5 turns of solid, bare, 14 gauge copper wire with 4" leads at the ends. The SECOND winding is 7 turns 16 gauge insulated multi-strand copper wire from a comman lamp cord. The THIRD winding is 13 turns of the same wire used by the SECOND winding. Note that the THIRD winding is connected direct to the battery positive terminal and then to the SECOND winding. It is very important that the SECOND and THIRD windings must have current passing through them at all times, and thus the SECOND winding passes to ground through a current using device such as a fog light, fan, or whatever.

Regarding the transformer coil, s1r9a9m9 wrote today:
"The [step-up transformer] coil must have a power supply at all times
to energize the wire when the engine coil fires. This can be done by
useing a fog light or small 12 volt motor, or just some thing that will
draw power through the wire through the coil. It may be possible to run
the charging wire from the alternator to the battery through the coil and
get the same results. It would not be drawing any power from the
system because it would not be interupted as it flows to the battery.
I am still reading through about 6 thousnd pages of work others have
provided on this project. I gots a head ache. I am still looking for a source
for the relays. If I find any I will let every one know where I got them.
Some one said that you cant get high voltage from a 12 volt system
just useing the power of the battery and alt.,. but what is the
voltage coming from the cars coil to the plugs on a car? the fire
that has always bit me has been over 28000v @ 0.78 amps. or more.
now all we are doing is adding another coil to boost the fire from
the first coil to 100 times the stock out put, but we are doing a
little more we are slowing it down a little and adding some amps back
to it as well. It ant rocket science but its not far from it. It seems simple
to be able to work, but a lot of time has went into this, and its not
finished yet. The engine still surges. It needs a fuel supply system that
feeds it as it needs it. there are other things that need to be done as well.
I dont have all the answers but I am looking. I just got lucky on the Elcamino
and the generator. Now it needs to be made to go on any car or truck, and
cheap as posible. A 65amp alternator will charge three car batteries under a
30 percent load, and maintain the batteries at 90 percent charge. So how
many math-tithions will say this cant be done. When the car is running how
much powere does it use? Now starting it is another thing , about 150
amps is pulled from the battery when starting a car engine it is
replaced with in the first 2 minutes of run time. this is the hardest
time for the batterys life , heavy discharge then quick recharge. But
how much power does the rest of the car use? Less than 8 percent of
the batteries copasity. unless you turn on every thing then you are
useing 20 percent. Stuff on a car does not draw a constant load. It
veries with engine speed battery condition and other factors as well.
Refrence to GM spects on automoitive electrical system uses and
condition of components. Thats some tough reading. So we put this
coil on each plug with a load pulled through it going to maybe some
thing that is being used all the time any ways and we now have a
system within a system that will draw 3 percent more from the power
system than before. We are still not over taxing our battery and
charging system.

Now as for how to get the water fuel into the cylinders, I havent a
clue as to how each vehicle will be done. Its not a constant flow to
each piston. It takes a lot, but only when it needs it."

As to water introduction to the 18 hp Briggs and Stratton engine used
for the YouTube videos, s1r says, "I ran the [water] hose
into the breather port hole and not through the carb.
None of the engine was modified except the breather filter
removed. This is a stock engine running on water.
The vaccum in the bottle was needed for this test, it had to draw
only what it needed as it needed it, as you could see in video 2
when I gave it too much it shut down and water vapor came out the
exhaust. A valve would have helped but my budget is gone, And its
shoe string streching time for parts.
Well as I said I dont have all the answers but I do have a bunch of
papers to go through and sort out a few more things.
I am working on a video to show how to make the coil and what it does
hooked up and working.

S1R."

As you can see, s1r's working concept is very simple, and doesn't need any complicated circuitry to make it work. It would be fun to test this out on a 10kw home generator, such as a Honda EB11000, which uses a 20 hp, 2 cylinder, 615cc 4-stroke engine. The second cylinder would help smooth out the rotations.

As s1r points out, the greatest challenge in adapting this to any engine is the water delivery method. We have seen his 18 hp engine run on straight, undispersed, unheated water. It does seem logical to conclude that pre-heated water, introduced as a fine mist, would be preferable. In either case, though, once the plasma spark disassociates and ignites a certain volume of
the water, the remaining water vapor will be converted to high pressure steam, adding to the force of the power stroke.

It is interesting to note that in his 350 El Camino setup, s1r took the engine exhaust and ran it through a small tank with baffles to separate the water and recirculate it to his water tank pre-heated. This boosted the engine efficiency, and recirculating the water allowed him to achieve 300 mpg of water used.

I hope that all will find this interesting and useful in the ongoing water fuel experiments. Best to all,

Rickoff

[magnetO]

"Positive Earth!", Joe said.

S1r PDF coil description and discussion !!!!


Hello,

"Postive Earth", said Joe (THE Joe) already 10 years ago.

He gave the hint that the old brit. cars had the positive pole of the batterie connected to the chassis of the car; all switching worked thru negative wire.

He also stated those never had any starting problems, even in the steady (looking from Australia to England) rain they started w/o choke, and didnt rust.


........the positive earth give/gave a improved ignition ..........


Please, might one or more of the researchers change the polarity of their (working/existing) LV-HV-Waterspark device, and give the opposite common ground, switch the other polarity, and turn the diodes.

Nothing changed, but polarity. What is the influence to spark property?

magnetO

[lighty]

Please, might one or more of the researchers change the polarity of their (working/existing) LV-HV-Waterspark device, and give the opposite common ground, switch the other polarity, and turn the diodes.

Nothing changed, but polarity. What is the influence to spark property?

magnetO

Good luck with that request. I suggested the same things at first page of this thread. No answer so far.

[Jetijs]

Lighty, if you can provide a circuit schematic of what you want to test out, I could try it tomorrow. Just show me how to hook everything up

[lighty]

@Jetijs

Pls look at my posts to Aaron regarding reversed polarity. I provided schematics. I should have known I could count on you.

[Aaron]

temp note

I have done the same temp test only taking temp readings when the plug is NOT sparking. Test temp...let it spark a while...turn off, then test temp.

Doing the test above is simpler than any protocols to eliminate emp influencing the thermometer...simply, only measure when there is no emp....only when the entire thing is off.

The temp will stay the SAME or will DROP.

[rickoff]

Reply to RedMeanie

Hi Red,

Thanks for doctoring up the diagram and sending it to me. I have posted it here: S1rRelay in bw.jpg - Windows Live SkyDrive It is much easier to read in black & white than with the yellow background. That one shows the relay circuitry that s1r9a9m9 uses. The only reason why s1r uses an inverter is because the heavy duty appliance relays that he has been using require 110V AC power to operate. You will note that the relay circuit does not show s1r's step-up-transformer, which is really the most important part of the circuitry. Please see my post #83 in this thread for complete info about the step-up transformer.

Thanks again, and best wishes,

Rickoff

[GotGas]

I have done the same temp test only taking temp readings when the plug is NOT sparking. Test temp...let it spark a while...turn off, then test temp.

Doing the test above is simpler than any protocols to eliminate emp influencing the thermometer...simply, only measure when there is no emp....only when the entire thing is off.

The temp will stay the SAME or will DROP.

That isn't the video you showed. In this video the entire thing was on and a chunk of metal suddenly gained 7 degrees in less than a second once it was turned off.

I am not saying it is impossible for electricity to reduce temperature. I can show you an experiment that takes 60 seconds to complete where ionic wind produces electrostatic cooling. My questions with the test arise when there is a temperature GAIN once it is turned off.

Lastly, the test is hardly conclusive with only one method of measurement by one person where the equipment is subjected to noise. Familiar with the term "laser cooling"?