Water Sparkplug

[Tishatang]

@All

Here is an interesting video. Do not know what kind of circuit being used.

YouTube - Hydrogen reactor 12

His experiments independent of ours.

Chris

[boguslaw]

Did more tests, no better results. I took care making sure I hooked the leads up correctly on the coil (Accel coil is marked + and -). I just went and switched them anyway, just to see. Very small spark at plug. The gray stripe down the side of the cap is negative for all, correct? That's what the meter said with it still connected in the flash camera, would have probably popped by now if it was inverted, right? When I have the cap (my inverter charges it to 130 V) discharge straight into the coil without the HV diode from HV+ to LV+, it does still spark, just smaller. Hooking the diode back up makes a good difference in the intensity of my spark. When I watched Peter's video, he had no visible spark (that I could see) without the diode hooked up. Then he hooked it up and it went bang, bang, bang,...............I have NO bang, only a semi-bright (don't need sunglasses just yet) blue-white spark with a small "snap" (barely hear it over the click of my momentary switch). Also turned the HV diode around to make sure I had it right, NO visible spark at the plug on that test. Also had another HV diode from microwave, (googled both part # one is 12,000V other is 10,000V) tried it to see if the one was fried...........same results as other. HVR-1X-3 googled to say it was 12,000 V, anyone know if that is good enough one to use, or is that my problem with the spark?? Oh, and when I spray water mist, it only makes the spark turn a yellowish color until the water goes away, then back to regular. NOT what I was hoping for. Maybe with you guys' help, I'll be able to get it to work yet!


I attached a pic of it, not very professional looking I'm afraid. It works, just not good enough. The sparkplug is a Champion S59YC, shows full continuity with ohms meter. I used the MSD crimping tool and added the HV+ pigtail when I put the coil end on the plugwire, maybe I need to do something different there??? Any suggestions?

There are two thing I will check : when you charged cap does it hold the charge long enough ? I have a cap which may be fast charged but it leak charge also fast.Because you have manual setup this is important.
Second problem is with wires and switch. Did you remove wires from inverter before testing plasma spark ? Capacitor likes to discharge in any possible direction, I know because I damaged my Bedini monopole because when discharging cap circuit was still connected to the leads of it. Third possibility of failure is slow switch.Do you see any arc inside of it while working ? I may speculate that here is energy lost by emanating radiant energy. Do you feel and prick or sting when turning witch on ? This is however less possible explanation...

[magnetO]

Any suggestions?

Hello,

very last suggestion. Do you use NONE-resitor spark plug? Yes?!

But your thick, red HV cable from +HV of coil to spark plug consists of an origin, resistive wire??? That would be a cause.

magnetO

[Dread]

Circuit Confirmation

Hi Aaron,

Could you or Peter please confirm this is correct. (I know the power supply is a little crazy, but indulge me)

Thanks.

D.

Spark enhance.bmp

[Mario]

Hi Peter, Aaron and all,

I tried to replicate the effect, I get the "normal" spark when discharging the cap, but when I add the diode I get nothing
The spark plug is one without resistance. I put 13 x U5408 diodes in series to simulate a 13kV diode, maybe that's not a good solution and the reason I don't get the plasma.
Can anyone point me to a HV diode that fits the purpose and is easy to find? Maybe even 20kV or more. A microvawe diode would probably work fine but nowadays they recycle all the used electronics stuff so I don't have access...

regards,
Mario

[jstadwater]

Thanks you guys, for all the responses. As for flash camera, I just meant I did a polarity test initially with the cap still in the camera, made a note of polarity and was the same on all others I tested. The sparkplug IS non-resistive, the wire however, I'm sure has resistance like all sparkplug wires do. I will change to a solid, or at least heavy guage wire (NOT a sparkplug wire) and retest. The cap DOES start to drain after charged, but it was very slow, still showed at least 120V each time I discharged into coil. I will also rearange my momentary switches to ONLY control relays, which should give me less energy escape. I cannot actually read the schematic at the end of Peter's video for the 555 timer setup, could someone post a clear drawing of this? I will have to send my boss to the electronics store, this would be alot easier to use and allow me to adjust the rate of firing. Does it make any difference whether I relay switch the positive or negative leads to and from the cap? Or do I need a high speed relay, if one exists, that will control both + and - leads simultaneously? Thanks again for everyone's help, off to do some more testing now...........................................

[**~Imhotep~**]

i have found that the wire you use makes a big difference in the output voltage of the coil ,smaller wire with less insulation =lower voltage .plug wires add capacitance and raise the voltage to the plug but does add resistance. hope that helps

[ashtweth]

Dread's cicuit

Here it is guys for instant access.

http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/6...enhancewm6.png

Ash

[Tishatang]

Hi Rick

I don't know if your injector idea is using a standard 14mm spark plug as its base? If the head of your test engine head has enough metal, 18mm plugs are common. Also, maybe the local auto supply has an early Ford V-8 plug with a 7/8 diameter. The larger size base would give much more room for injector lines and electrodes. Assuming the head could stand that much bigger bore?

I think with Champion plugs, any number ending in "R" is a resistor plug. So any other number plug will not have a resistor.

If you get close in your test setup, try winding a coil around the cylinder to create a magnetic field. Papp did this maybe to focus the energy downward towards the piston?

Chris

[Aaron]

Dread, Mario, Jstadwater

Dread, conceptually the circuit looks right. Charging both caps from the same power source might be buggy. That is what I found.

The booster cap is basically just in parallel across the plug, which is basically across the coil (hv+ and -). With hv diode of course...leaving booster cap to top of plug.

It is essentially the same as Luc's except a cap across the bridge output and with a separate supply.

----------

Mario,
Did you check if all the diodes are good. If the series of them are blown it won't work...and they're very easy to fry. hv03-12 is what Peter and I used with really good results. But of course we blew a bunch of those too when increasing the booster caps to either high voltage/low capacitance or lower voltage and high capacitance.

------------

Jstadwater,
I posted a link in this forum 1 or 2 pages back with a zip file that has pics and schematics from Peter's video.

------------

[jstadwater]

What A Spark!!!!!!

I got it to work!!, with the help and suggestions of all involved. It was the sparkplug wire holdin' me back, it measured 56 ohms, apparently enough to keep me from getting that "bang" I was looking to duplicate! I sprayed water mist at the plug and it was about twice as loud. I will now switch to relays and see if the effect is even better, and then add in Aaron's intensifier cap. Man, this is REALLY cool stuff. I fired it about 30 times as fast as I could press the buttons and then felt the end of the plug, still cold!! I have got to build me a 555 timer setup like Peter's. Thanks Aaron, I will look back through the posts to find the schematic. Thanks to ALL, again, and again!!! Let the experimentation continue.......................................... .............

[Dread]

Thanks Aaron.

...Thanks for the confirm.
I found a supplier of 1 way Check valves (you know you guys with plug injectors want one for the water / air metering) big deal you say.
A-ha, try finding a valve that will flow with 0 pressure in 1 direction and close with + in the other.
They are SS (for you salt freaks), made by Swagelok, distributed by Alabama Fluid System Technologies Tel. 205 988 4812
Pt. SS-4C-1 1/4T. (remove spring for 0 pressure flow)
$ 42:00 Cha-ching. Now you don't have to waste 3 hrs like I did.
Rgds.
D.

[ashtweth]

Complete research peper done

Here you go guys, a complete research paper on the water spark plug, Aaron, PL, ossie's and many more.

This is like a digest so you wont have to goto through many forums posts , it can be periodically updated, just send me the stuff.
Also Rickoff's stuff is posted

Goto the panaceauniversity.org-> Over unity research papers ->Ganga Shakti -Water Spark plug research (PDF)

We replicated this, ill add ours in there later.

[renaud67]

hello,
just to thank you ashtweth : impressive and valuable and so on ... work

[Mario]

Hi Aaron,

I checked all the diodes and they're ok. I found out that the HV plug cable has a resistance of 6000 ohms. But even now that I replaced it with a normal wire it doesn't work. The coil works fine, so I guess the only possibility is that 13 diodes in series have too much resistance? For now I've been playing from 12 to 24V with caps from 25 to 330uF. Even without the diodes, doing it manually I get no difference between going direct from the 24V supply or from the cap. Did you get the diode plasma effect with 24V?

thanks,
Mario