Water Sparkplug

[gmeast]

1\2 Geet

Hi Greg,

below is what I posted yesterday at Overunity Forum about the half GEET, thanks for your interest and asking.

Luc

Hi everyone,

I want to give you all an update on my engine test . I spent all day yesterday working on the waste spark circuit idea I had using a latching relay as a spark skip circuit. I originally thought the latching relay would work with a single pulse to flip (latch) the relay from side to side, well it does! but the polarity of the switch needs to reverse back and forth also. That is the problem since I'm using a single switch to activate it. All my attempts to resolve this have lead to the relay to loop and not just a single flip. So that idea looks like it's not going to work.

About 2 weeks ago my friend Rick suggested a 2:1 timing belt and pulley arrangement to which I really liked the idea but when I found out the cost (about $100.) to get the parts locally I dropped that ideal until I have a proven system.

Anyways, I think I can do a basic test without the waste spark circuit as long as I don't pass TDC since the intake valve starts to opens just a hair after TDC .

I built a really nice sliding timing position switch that I can move on the fly from about 30 degrees BTDC to 5 degrees ATDC.

Unfortunately today is raining and showing no signs of clearing and Sunday I have something happening all day, so it looks now like it's going to be Monday

Stay tuned!

Luc

Hi Luc,

Thanks for the update. I will most likely put a 2:1 fiber gear setup on the rear of my genset. Mechanical things are quick for me. I have a machine shop as part of my business. I can likely make a plate, mount the gears, reed switches and magnet rotor in a day's time. Finding that day is an entirely separate issue. Most will appreciate that.

Peace,

Greg

[gmeast]

OK HERE GOES & quoting self

Hi Luc,

Thanks for the update. I will most likely put a 2:1 fiber gear setup on the rear of my genset. Mechanical things are quick for me. I have a machine shop as part of my business. I can likely make a plate, mount the gears, reed switches and magnet rotor in a day's time. Finding that day is an entirely separate issue. Most will appreciate that.

Peace,

Greg

Hi all,

Well, today I decided on the mechanical solution to the timing issue(s). I've attached some pics of my genset. I lucked out in that I have a pilot diameter to locate a pinion shaft to as well as a way to make a draw bar to replace the through bolt shown to snug everything back up. The end cover even has a knock-out to bring everything out.

Wish me luck. Peace,

Greg

[goldenequity]

Very cool
Conquering the 2:1 issue is a BIG step... congrats!

[Gibs]

Velocity

Hi Gibs,

I have scoured the archives (but I'm not the most proficient reader anyway) for the actual reason ?why? the need to retard the spark event. If so by how much? I know there is NOT any good thermodynamic reason to do this. In any heat engine you always want to mechanically extract the greatest potential from the high pressure gas from combustion by expanding it fully from its smallest or starting volume to its largest, final and fully expanded volume. Only then can you experience the greatest delta t and delta p ... (t1 - t2)/t1 and (p1-p2)/p1 being the fundamental expressions for thermal efficiency of systems like heat engines (t1 & p1 being the beginning temp. and press & t2 and p2 being the ending ones, respectively). (adiabatic).

Maybe "retarded" really means just a "little retarded"?

Thanks in advance. I love this forum! Peace,

Greg

Hi Greg,
I've read somewhere on the internet that gas and diesel expand at about 45 meter/sec. Hydrogen expansion is about 265 meter/sec.
At this velocity it is more efficient to push on a descending piston.

The effect that we are working on has more to do with explosion than flame propagation (combustion). It is a very short event.

I did'nt try it yet but I would say that 5 to 15 degrees ATDC would give good results. Anybody, do not hesitate to correct me if I'm wrong.

By the way, good work on your last vid Greg.

I also love this forum. Thanks Aaron.

[poii]

gears

Here's a good source for gears that I've used.

http://www.sdp-si.com/

[gotoluc]

Hi all,

here is a great deal on a timing belt and pulley set. The only thing is the gear ratio is wrong but if you get one 21 tooth to replace the 13 tooth pulley you will have the 2:1 ratio and I think cheaper than buying the complete set. But do the math first. The nice thing about this set is the large diameter pulley will give you good precision.

Link: 0.200(XL) PITCH, TWO PULLEYS AND TIMING BELT DRIVE KIT - eBay (item 360036713526 end time Sep-21-08 18:11:56 PDT)

ADDED
or do it this way, in Polycarbon
15 tooth: CNC Timing pulley stepper motor 15 teeth 5/16" bor .2p - eBay (item 260252339594 end time Sep-14-08 12:45:50 PDT)

30 tooth: CNC Timing Pulley For Stepper Motor 30 Tooth 5/16" b - eBay (item 260265272147 end time Sep-18-08 15:28:34 PDT)

Belt: CNC TIMING BELT 100 TOOTH W KEVLAR FOR STEPPER MOTOR - eBay (item 260265270186 end time Sep-18-08 15:22:27 PDT)

or do it this way, in Aluminum
15 tooth: CNC SERVO or STEPPER MOTOR DRIVE PULLEY 15T .2 PITCH AL - eBay (item 260265272888 end time Sep-18-08 15:30:46 PDT)

30 tooth: CNC SERVO or STEPPER MOTOR DRIVE PULLEY 30T 3/8" .2p AL - eBay (item 260252356809 end time Sep-14-08 13:05:52 PDT)

Luc

[rip]

Most generators I've seen are sealed on 1 end on these generators unless they drilled it out and replaced the shaft.

Aaron,

altenators/generators from a early VW bug have shaft that goes all the way through, one end connects to the crankshaft pulley via a belt the other end has a fan to cool the engine. Both ends use keyed slots with nuts. This may work.

Rip

[gmeast]

timing - step 1

Very cool
Conquering the 2:1 issue is a BIG step... congrats!

Hi all,

Here's the beginning.

Step 1: mount the 15 tooth pinion.

Stay tuned. Peace,

Greg

[Jetijs]

Since it would take long time for the timing pulleys to arrive from ebay, I decided to machine my own gear reducer. I attached some pictures of how far I am now. Tho bolts are used only as temporary axis, I will make a custom axis for each gear. The small gear has 12 teeth and the big one has 24 teeth. There are also two mounting holes so I can attach this gear reducer to the generator side. There are some small problems that I need to take care of, but everything is going well. I will probably have to make the enclosure out of acrylic, because it is easier and faster to machine than aluminum and I don't have an aluminum plate with the right thcikness.
Thanks,
Jetijs

[gotoluc]

Wow Jetijs,

you are one dedicated soul ... no obstacles for you

@everyone, yesterday I had a small break with the rain and tested my half GEET to find that the cam lobe I made on the flywheel to activate the timing switch is not long enough (on period) for the relay to trigger correctly. It worked by hand when I turn it but as soon as it turns faster it misses most of the time. Today again is rained out, so maybe tomorrow I'll do the mod and retest.

I'll post the video once I have it working.

Luc

[jstadwater]

voltage doubler circuit..............

Hey Luc, or anyone who knows,

Just a couple quick questions, I'm still new at all this electronic stuff. Are all 1N4005 rectifier diodes created equall, so any of them will work? As in, the ones in the EFIE kits from RedMeanie? What voltage rated 30uf caps should I use with a 120V inverter as my power supply? I have measured up to 130V charging the caps from this inverter through bridge so 150V rate to be safe? Or do they need to be rated for the doubled voltage? Don't want to be exploding caps if I can help it, so I ask questions. Thanks in advance.....................................Mike


Nevermind, I found the answers on Electronic Circuits pretty good site actually.......

[Ansis Freimanis]

To jstadwater

If you take 2x more voltage, it will be better. If it is not possible (too big or other reason) take 1.4x more, because of impulse character of circuitry. And, capacitor quality must be good too.

[poii]

gear train

Hi all
I gave up on the rocker arm sensor for a number of reasons. Sooo...I found a dead classic vertical shaft Briggs&Straton lawnmower engine and was able to strip it down to get just one cam follower operating. I did a compleat tear down, rebalanced the crankshaft and cut the cylinder off just above the valve spring box and reassembled the with crankshaft, camshaft and follower.
The valve spring box is perfect for mounting a micro, hall or reed switch. With the crankshaft coupled to my test engine, rotating the crankcase of the Briggs relative to the test engine will adjust the timing.

The crank was balanced by cutting the counter weights off with a cutting wheel. I made the cut about 1/4" out from the shaft and balanced it on the leveled jaws of a vice. Seemed to run smooth at 2000 rpm with a drill motor.

Hope to attach the switch and send picks tomorrow.

[frenchy]

hello
i am new here so for those who think "where does he come from?" the answer is here
http://www.energeticforum.com/new-me...mber-here.html

i have replicated this shematic:
Windows Live SkyDrive(right click,save as)
witch is from here.

here is a vid of what i have in a "jumping marble" test:
Windows Live SkyDrive

i have mounted it on a lawnmower(b&s 3.5HP)
it didn't fire the engine, timing is approx.15° after TDC (original timing of approx15°before TDC) i have tried with the original timing too.

for the diodes in series i used 1A rated ones insted of 3A due to my manufacturer mistake who said me it was the same ones, do you think it can be the cause ?(the diodes don't heat and are still alive after several sparking) in any case i have already ordered new ones exactly as the shematic.

my goal is to convert this engine for running on water and if i can then i have a car that only wait to run on water too.

i also have noticed (and you can too) on my video that at firing the ball is seat on the tube and we can see it jumping only at next frame of the vid,when plasma is over. the video is 24 fps, so i am asking of the velocity of burning????
any suggestions?

[gmeast]

step 2

Hi all,

Here's my progress:

With the pinion or drive gear mounted on the generator's tail, I've begun work on the driven gear. There will be a sub plate mounted on standoffs that will share the same mounting locations as 3 of the 4 mounting locations of the back vented cover. A cantilevered shaft will extend from this plate to support the driven gear. The sub plate will also have mounting pads or blocks for the charge and discharge reed switches. A phenolic disc will attach to the machined surface of the driven gear to which a magnet will be attached. In operation the magnet will swing past the reed switches triggering the circuitry. The reed switch mounting pads will have slots for timing adjustment.

Stay tuned. Peace,

Greg