Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Water Sparkplug

Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Great work Greg



    At first I made the gears out of aluminum, I tested the setup at up to 4000 RPM on a drill and it worked just fine. The only thing was that there was a lot of noise because of the small backlash of the gear coupling. That is why I decided to make the gears out of polycarbonate. Polycarbonate is very good material to work with, it is much denser and more flexible than acrylic and it doesn't shatter under extreme load. The timing mechanism wont be a big load, so I can use polycarbonate with no worries. Also, it made the setup work much quieter



    Now I need to attach this thing on the generator shaft and make a timing wheel out of aluminum with a small gap on it. This is because I intend to use optical switch for the timing. The optoswitch will also be easily adjustable by sliding it around the timing wheel using a deepening in the base plate.
    Thanks,
    Jetijs
    It's better to wear off by working than to rust by doing nothing.

    Comment


    • Excellent work also Jetijs I took the liberty to post your picture on OU forum also.

      Luc

      Comment


      • All is in the new document uploading 2nght
        Also we have a new solid state spark circuit and are running a gen set with the spark plug and hydroxy booster video coming soon
        Video will have all our research in it..

        Comment


        • Proud

          Wow!!! Great work Jetijs I'm proud of you.

          Are you equiped to make those beautiful gears yourself ?
          They are cool.

          Keep up

          Comment


          • Hey Greg,

            Just trying to figure out how to use the triacs for charging and discharging my caps, the DPDT relay I have been using is starting to show some internal arcing and misfires every once in a while. First, let's see if I can understand the circuit. The magnet makes contact with the Reed switch of the "charge" triac, thus activating that triac's gate and charging up the 47uf cap. Am I correct to assume the gate is only activated while the magnet is close to the switch? (I don't know anything about Reed switches, YET) When you move the magnet away, the gate is no longer activated, the cap is now charged, is this how the triacs are isolated between the charging and discharging of the cap? The cap stays charged until the magnet passes close to the Reed switch of the "discharge" triac, thus activating that triac's gate discharging the 47uf cap's voltage to the coil. The use of UF5408-E3 diodes keep you from getting feedback voltage between the triacs from charging and discharging the cap? The high voltage diodes at the sparkplug then create the "slamming" effect when the coil discharges it's high voltage to the plug. Please let me know if I got ANY of this right. Also, the diagram doesn't show you using the "backside booster caps" that Aaron came up with. (Thank you Aaron, you are the man!) I use those in my setup, will the triac circuit work with this configuration? I just got done wiring up the "voltage doubler" as posted earlier, I went from a "booster cap charge" of 130V to now having 320V charge. I still charge the front cap via bridge at 130V. Man, what a difference that voltage makes!!! I was using a 120uf front cap discharging into the coil, now dropped down to a 47uf. Was using a pair of paralleled 470uf "booster" caps on the back side, now dropped down to a pair of paralleled 80uf caps for backside boost. The "EFFECT" is better than I have ever seen it, GREATLY increased. Maybe now having higher voltage and less capacitance, I will produce less heat in my setup than before. Sorry for the long post, this is just so exciting that once I get started I can't seem to shutup about it! Please let me know if my understanding of your triac circuit is anywhere close to reality. Thanks.............................Mike
            IF IT DOESN'T EXIST, CREATE IT!!!

            Comment


            • Originally posted by ashtweth View Post
              All is in the new document uploading 2nght
              Also we have a new solid state spark circuit and are running a gen set with the spark plug and hydroxy booster video coming soon
              Video will have all our research in it..
              Very eager to see the water sparkplug combined with the hydroxy booster.

              Comment


              • Deleted by gotoluc
                Last edited by gotoluc; 09-14-2008, 02:10 AM.

                Comment


                • the circuit

                  Originally posted by jstadwater View Post
                  Hey Greg,

                  Just trying to figure out how to use the triacs for charging and discharging my caps, the DPDT relay I have been using is starting to show some internal arcing and misfires every once in a while. First, let's see if I can understand the circuit. The magnet makes contact with the Reed switch of the "charge" triac, thus activating that triac's gate and charging up the 47uf cap. Am I correct to assume the gate is only activated while the magnet is close to the switch? (I don't know anything about Reed switches, YET) When you move the magnet away, the gate is no longer activated, the cap is now charged, is this how the triacs are isolated between the charging and discharging of the cap? The cap stays charged until the magnet passes close to the Reed switch of the "discharge" triac, thus activating that triac's gate discharging the 47uf cap's voltage to the coil. The use of UF5408-E3 diodes keep you from getting feedback voltage between the triacs from charging and discharging the cap? The high voltage diodes at the sparkplug then create the "slamming" effect when the coil discharges it's high voltage to the plug. Please let me know if I got ANY of this right. Also, the diagram doesn't show you using the "backside booster caps" that Aaron came up with. (Thank you Aaron, you are the man!) I use those in my setup, will the triac circuit work with this configuration? I just got done wiring up the "voltage doubler" as posted earlier, I went from a "booster cap charge" of 130V to now having 320V charge. I still charge the front cap via bridge at 130V. Man, what a difference that voltage makes!!! I was using a 120uf front cap discharging into the coil, now dropped down to a 47uf. Was using a pair of paralleled 470uf "booster" caps on the back side, now dropped down to a pair of paralleled 80uf caps for backside boost. The "EFFECT" is better than I have ever seen it, GREATLY increased. Maybe now having higher voltage and less capacitance, I will produce less heat in my setup than before. Sorry for the long post, this is just so exciting that once I get started I can't seem to shutup about it! Please let me know if my understanding of your triac circuit is anywhere close to reality. Thanks.............................Mike
                  Hi jstadwater,

                  For the most part you have it right. The reed switch closes when engulfed by a magnetic field. The reed switches connect the Gate of the Triac to its own Main Terminal #2 through the 3k resistor. The two diodes are ultra fast recovery diodes that are across the loads. One UF5408-E3 is across the Cap and the other UF5408-E3 is across the Coil. Both of these diodes protect the Triacs from high voltage transients (back emf). Even though the Cap is not technically an inductive load, every load can display some inductive characteristics according to many EE's. It is important to trigger the gate through the 3k resistor with current from Main Terminal #2 (sometimes manufacturers designate MT2 and MT1 differently). Make sure you use the power resistor (12 ohm - 50w) into the Cap so you don't hang the Triac from too much inrush current. Make sure when you're experimenting that you never allow both Triacs to turn on at the same time. If you do, you can say "bye" to your coil. Make sure your reed switches are placed far enough away from each other so this doesn't happen by accident. What may be unfamiliar to you is that the +plus connections are always connected. The -minus connection(s) get switched.

                  I must have missed details about a 'backside Cap'. Where is there a diagram of this? I only have one Cap like the original circuit.

                  The Triac circuit I have shared has very low overhead which is a result of having a dedicated "charge" component and a dedicated "discharge" component and I've tried to adhere to the basic and original concept of the 'water spark plug'.

                  Good luck,

                  Greg

                  Comment


                  • what??

                    NexusPlasma01.wmv

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by gotoluc View Post
                      @everyone,
                      I did do a video of the test even though it failed If anyone is interested in seeing the setup. It is uploaded on the new Energetic Forum video hosting service called EnergeticTube: Half GEET Plasma Engine Test - Energetictube.com*-*Where technology goes LIVE!
                      Luc
                      Luc,
                      Maybe use a set of points from a 1968 Camaro, to open/shut at top dead center instead of that switch, so that you can adjust/time the gap, to ground and fire the coil.
                      SM
                      Last edited by sirmikey1; 09-13-2008, 10:01 AM.

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by Gibs View Post
                        Wow!!! Great work Jetijs I'm proud of you.

                        Are you equiped to make those beautiful gears yourself ?
                        They are cool.

                        Keep up
                        Hi Gibs
                        I made those gears with my cnc machine. The CAD drawing was made using GearCAD demo program and then just converted to a machine code.

                        Anyway, I finally attached the gear speed reducer to the main generator shaft. There were only two mounting holes that I could use to do this and they are threaded with a 5mm diameter thread. That is very small diameter and I was afraid that two such leadscrews could not hold the reducer in place firmly, but when I tested everything with the stock ignition system, it worked just fine I will make some better support for the reducer eventually. Here are some pictures:





                        Now I need to make an aluminum timing wheel and an adjustable rig so I can change the timing on the fly
                        Thanks,
                        Jetijs
                        It's better to wear off by working than to rust by doing nothing.

                        Comment


                        • Nexus Plasma circuit

                          Here is the .pdf download link to the Nexus Plasma circuit used for the VW van running a plasma ignition setup(!) in the .wmv video posted by freepoint.
                          (Congrats ALSO to Luc.... YOU made this possible man! plasma generation w/ half amp!)

                          circuit
                          http://skyhero.com/Cozzco%20Plasma%20Arc%20Circuit.pdf

                          video
                          NexusPlasma01.wmv

                          nice find! freepoint..... is this YOUR setup???
                          Last edited by goldenequity; 09-13-2008, 03:10 PM.

                          Comment


                          • goldenequity, thank you for the video and pdf. The video looks nice, unfortunatelly my computer at work does not have sound, but I will watch it at home. And looking at the PDF, this guy just uses the basic water spark plug setup, only the HV spark from his ignition coil has a negative polarity, that is why he connected those diodes and the LV side backwards
                            Very nice
                            It's better to wear off by working than to rust by doing nothing.

                            Comment


                            • congratulations!

                              Originally posted by freepoint View Post
                              Hi freepoint,

                              It's nice to get the plasma effect on such low current isn't it? 100 ma is about what my circuit uses at present. Nice job presenting and it's nice to see other "doers" in the forum.

                              Best,

                              Greg

                              Comment


                              • what??

                                hello,

                                i am not the builder of that,
                                i only found the link...

                                thanks.

                                It is a real pleasure to follow your's groups.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X