Water Sparkplug

[broli]

Awe...SOME progress . Is there a difference in exhaust between normal and plasma spark?

[Jetijs]

Greg,
this is awesome
thank you for sharing!

Now a little about my observations. I have made a lot of bench tests using Aarons booster cap method. I have found out that for the booster method the main thing that makes a difference is the booster cap capacity. I tried a 10uf cap charged up to 310V for the booster side and then I made another test using a voltage doubler and two 20uF caps, this way I could double the cap voltage, maintaining the same capacity (since in the doubler the caps are arranged in series), but I did not see any difference in the spark, the corona was still about 8-10mm in diameter. Also I found out that the bigger capacity cap you use on the booster side the bigger the blasts (if your power supply can keep up charging the cap). With 100uF cap I could get very big blasts out of the spark plug, but it would not hold up frequency more than 4Hz. Also the current consumption was around 100w and the spark plug got hot very fast and showed signs of wear very soon. So I think that there is a difference in the basic circuit and the booster cap circuit as the basic circuit does not make the spark plug hot and the effect goes bigger and bigger if you increase the voltage. The booster method is all about capacity.

[gotoluc]

I think that there is a difference in the basic circuit and the booster cap circuit as the basic circuit does not make the spark plug hot and the effect goes bigger and bigger if you increase the voltage. The booster method is all about capacity.

Hi Jetijs,

thank you for bringing this up.

As you know I have made a video to demonstrate this a while back. For those who missed it here it is: YouTube - Capacitance Vs. Voltage and Diode Test 1

If you want a bigger spark you raise the charge voltage of the capacitor and lower the capacitance (uf value) and save on energy.

I had a great spark using 2uf but charged to 1000vdc and you can get a better spark at 2000vdc with a .5uf cap and a most amazing spark at 3000vdc with a .22uf cap. I can go on but I think you get the picture.

Notice that all the above use the same energy (1 Joule) but yet the spark effect gets better as the voltage rises.

At this time Groundloop is designing me a switch circuit that hopefully will handle high voltage at low amps. But maybe a circuit is not even required as once the voltage is high enough it can jump a small gap, so we could just use a mechanical rotor to do the switching!... right ... so this maybe the way to go since electronic components have voltage limits.

User: Uncle Fester who works with Krupa on the development of the Firestorm Plugs has confirmed what I have shared about the voltage.

&

Luc

[gmeast]

odor

Awe...SOME progress . Is there a difference in exhaust between normal and plasma spark?

Much less pungent odor from the exhaust. No smoke. Don't need to choke to warm up. Solid combustion, better low end torque, and more.

Thanks,

Greg

[gmeast]

mods

Hi all,

Now I begin the work of making it all meaningful. Already there are some mods that are for the convenience of telemetry / monitoring.

First I have relocated the diode clusters to a more accessible location for monitoring. The first photo shows the clusters hanging from the air filter can and the feeds going directly to the distributor (small brown wires). The purple wire (common) ties to the white wire (primary plus side of the coil). The carbon plug wires have been replaced by solid wire cables (blue plug cables) that makes tying directly to the distributor possible.

The second photo is a baseline photo of No. 3 spark plug for the purposes of monitoring the effect of the plasma discharge on the plug. The gap is .023 inch. The spark plugs are non resistor (copper core).

And thank you all for your comments on the video. They are appreciated and it is hoped that this work will benefit all.

Peace,

Greg

[Gibs]

Great progress!

... If you want a bigger spark you raise the charge voltage of the capacitor and lower the capacitance (uf value) and save on energy.

I had a great spark using 2uf but charged to 1000vdc and you can get a better spark at 2000vdc with a .5uf cap and a most amazing spark at 3000vdc with a .22uf cap. I can go on but I think you get the picture.

Notice that all the above use the same energy (1 Joule) but yet the spark effect gets better as the voltage rises.

&

Luc

I totally agree with you Luc also, less current = less electrode wearing.

Hi all,

Now I begin the work of making it all meaningful. Already there are some mods that are for the convenience of telemetry / monitoring.

First I have relocated the diode clusters to a more accessible location for monitoring. The first photo shows the clusters hanging from the air filter can and the feeds going directly to the distributor (small brown wires). The purple wire (common) ties to the white wire (primary plus side of the coil). The carbon plug wires have been replaced by solid wire cables (blue plug cables) that makes tying directly to the distributor possible.

The second photo is a baseline photo of No. 3 spark plug for the purposes of monitoring the effect of the plasma discharge on the plug. The gap is .023 inch. The spark plugs are non resistor (copper core).

And thank you all for your comments on the video. They are appreciated and it is hoped that this work will benefit all.

Peace,

Greg

Way to go Greg!

We are following your great work with a lot of interest and admiration.

Can't wait to hear about your new mpg.

Keep up everyone and thanks for sharing.

P.S: By the way Greg, how big is the gauge of those blue spark plug wires?

[rmitoday]

Thanks for sharing Greg!
What's resistance of blue spark plugs wires too? I've measured my wire and it's about 7 kOhm.

[Jetijs]

Greg, have you tried to change the timing yet?

[jstadwater]

Hey Greg,

ABSOLUTELY AWESOME MAN!!!!!!!!!!!! I, like everyone else here, am very grateful you are a part of this forum. You are not just impacting the lifes of those on this forum. Your work, along with Aaron, and Peter, and Luc, and everyone else that has contributed, is an obvious key component in all of us being able to eventually run these engines strictly on water! We anxiously await all further info from your testing and advancements, as we ourselves continue to test. GREAT work, talk about taking it to the next level!!!!!! This is what happens when research like this is on an open forum, each step after the intial discovery continues to yield better and better results! I guess the next step would be to get it to work with HEI ignition on a V-8, right? I got several here in the shop to work with, as the testing continues...........ALL you guys are top-notch in my book, keep up the great work.

Later.............................Mike

[gmeast]

blu wires

Thanks for sharing Greg!
What's resistance of blue spark plugs wires too? I've measured my wire and it's about 7 kOhm.

Hi rmitoday,

The blue wires are racing cables ... copper wires ... 1.2 ohms for the longest ones.

Greg

[gmeast]

research

Hey Greg,

ABSOLUTELY AWESOME MAN!!!!!!!!!!!! I, like everyone else here, am very grateful you are a part of this forum. You are not just impacting the lifes of those on this forum. Your work, along with Aaron, and Peter, and Luc, and everyone else that has contributed, is an obvious key component in all of us being able to eventually run these engines strictly on water! We anxiously await all further info from your testing and advancements, as we ourselves continue to test. GREAT work, talk about taking it to the next level!!!!!! This is what happens when research like this is on an open forum, each step after the intial discovery continues to yield better and better results! I guess the next step would be to get it to work with HEI ignition on a V-8, right? I got several here in the shop to work with, as the testing continues...........ALL you guys are top-notch in my book, keep up the great work.

Later.............................Mike

Hi jstadwater,

Stop it! I'm blushing! Thanks seriously,

Greg

[gmeast]

timing

Greg, have you tried to change the timing yet?

Hi Jetijs,

I adjusted the timing for best power on CDI only ... no plasma. I can turn plasma 'on' and 'off' with a switch ... just a a convenience. On CDI only it is an exaggerated response to timing adjustment ... don't know why. On CDI+plasma it doesn't care until I'm way out of range. Because of all of the cautions I've received re: possible damage caused by the hotter burning gasses on plasma (and the power diff is noticeable) I run at 3 to 6 deg retarded to keep the piston farther away from the initial blast. I don't know if that's enough. I am entertaining ingesting water mist to pre-cool the gasses or running on emulsion of gas/water or something. I'm also entertaining suggestions (big time) 'cause I don't want to melt my Bug.

Thanks for comments and replies,

Greg

[gmeast]

booster cap

Greg,
this is awesome
thank you for sharing!

Now a little about my observations. I have made a lot of bench tests using Aarons booster cap method. I have found out that for the booster method the main thing that makes a difference is the booster cap capacity. I tried a 10uf cap charged up to 310V for the booster side and then I made another test using a voltage doubler and two 20uF caps, this way I could double the cap voltage, maintaining the same capacity (since in the doubler the caps are arranged in series), but I did not see any difference in the spark, the corona was still about 8-10mm in diameter. Also I found out that the bigger capacity cap you use on the booster side the bigger the blasts (if your power supply can keep up charging the cap). With 100uF cap I could get very big blasts out of the spark plug, but it would not hold up frequency more than 4Hz. Also the current consumption was around 100w and the spark plug got hot very fast and showed signs of wear very soon. So I think that there is a difference in the basic circuit and the booster cap circuit as the basic circuit does not make the spark plug hot and the effect goes bigger and bigger if you increase the voltage. The booster method is all about capacity.

Hi Jetijs,

I have completely missed the backside booster cap principle of Aaron's. Can you show me what that is and how it differs from the Gotoluc basic circuit? I know that the original circuit (even at low voltages like mine ... 160VDC Cap Charge) produces negligible heat at the plug. This is one of the characteristics that attracted me to the phenomenon.

Thanks in advance,

Greg

[Aaron]

booster caps

Greg,

- INCREDIBLE job with everything you're doing!

Gotoluc's showed an inverter parallel with plug as low voltage source.

Simply keep it like that but put a cap in parallel with the inverter's rectified output. OR, instead of inverter - whatever other method will keep the caps charged. I think tapping an alternator before the regulator is a simple way to do it...few hundred volts and will probably keep the caps charged fast enough.

You could use a separate inverter - might be better. My original test, I used the same input from a variac.

[Aaron]

2nd alternator possibility

or...use a second alternator stripped of the regulator.