Wirewound power resistors that have a slider tap retain their wattage rating since that is determined by the guage of the nicrome wire used in their construction. The only difference moving the slider does is change the resistance due to reducing the total resistor length, the wire guage is constant from one end to the other. The voltage drop across the resistor will vary with the same current, but the wattage handling will be retained.
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OK,
How would I verify the ohms level while the circuit is charged? (not while making plasma burst, just with voltage present, 460VDC ) I moved the slider to each end with no visible affect on the plasma bursts. I thought different resistence levels would change the effect. Although I am only discharging 2.5uF, maybe not enough capacitence to notice the change in the plasma effect. If that's the case, will different resistence levels, one way or the other, adversely affect my inverter? Still trying to understand.
@ Jetijs
Nope, no good without the isolation transformer! $40.00 test just completed, the smoke leaked out IMMEDIATELY. The plasma effect was about 5 times increased though, (go figure) both flashes then nothing but the itsy, bitsy factory spark. I too, had to know if it would work or not. But I do like the diagram of using the two MOTs to make a isolation transformer, at least they are practically free!
I will probably start the install into the Suburban tomorrow sometime. Later............................MikeIF IT DOESN'T EXIST, CREATE IT!!!
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Oooops!
In my haste to test the circuit, I have the clips hooked up wrong.........DUUHH! I accidentally ran the voltage through from end to end on the resistor! It's been a long day, and I didn't get enough sleep, we're moving into a new house. Everything is upside down, here at work too evidently. Later.................................MikeIF IT DOESN'T EXIST, CREATE IT!!!
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Bill's Nexus Circuit Test Two Update
I finally received my isolation transformer today and performed some testing. I first tested the circuit with an isolated battery to ensure that the inverter primaries were isolated from it's secondaries. It worked just as I expected. The hot side of the inverters output is totally isolated from the vehicle battery, the neutral side still reads 120 VAC but I guess it should seeing that it is tied to the vehicle ground. So when I tested the circuit on the vehicle battery, the inverter held up just fine. I was a little worried due to all of the TVS use that has been going on, but I figured what the hell I'll give it a try. It did not seem to affect the inverter, but I was only running one plug. Just for safety sake, I think I will order TVS's just to make sure.
I also replaced the MOT with an electric motor coil that I got out of the fan in the microwave. The spark was not as great, but that should be due to the fact that the MOT has 0.7 ohms of resistance and the little coil has 103.7 ohms of resistance. The little coil worked just fine and of course is 10 time smaller.
I only used 15 diodes in this test because of just testing one plug, and that also worked fine. I found a neat way of packaging the diodes. I soldered them all together covered them in liquid electric tape, then folded them and wrapped them in heat shrink. Works great and a lot smaller package I have posted a couple of pictures before and after the shrink wrap.
I made a video of the test and I'm in the process of uploading it as I am writing this. I will post a link once it is completed.
Next step is to install this on all four plugs and see how she runs.
Lapperl
Here is the video link
YouTube - Nexus Circuit Test Two.AVIAttached Files
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Nxus
Welcome aboard,
I would guess it would you serve you to breeze the posts from the beginning as this will provide a foundation.
There is a group of youtubes that chart progress with the circuit.
Numerous circuits have been posted and still more have been demonstrated on video.
What the effect is remains a topic of debate. After this research you may want to weigh in on a potential conclusion.
I don't think the above would take more than an hour.
YouTube - Water Sparkplug IV
The above youtube is by Lee. He also provides the circuit and a few possible conclusions.
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Great news!
Originally posted by jstadwater View PostYES, YES, YES..........I got in the 1.5KE150CA diodes in a little bit ago. Hooked up one between the inverter and isolation transformer, and then one between the transformer and tripler circuit. Have not added the one for the battery to inverter yet, but will shortly, just as a safegaurd. I could never run the circuit on just the inverter for more than about a minute at around 2,200 rpm, less than 30 seconds at 4,300 rpm, and the inverter started squeeling loudly in protest.
I just finished running continuous for 20 minutes at 4,300 rpm, powered by inverter ONLY. The 1.5KE150CA diodes did not even get WARM at all........much less hot. But, most importantly, THE INVERTER WAS HAPPY THE ENTIRE TIME!!!!!!!!
NOW.......if I can run a v-8 distributor at that rpm on inverter power, there should be NO problem whatsoever with a 4 cylinder install.
I will now move forward with installing the circuit into this 350 Suburban, HOLD ON TIGHT BOYS, IT'S GETTING CRAZY AROUND HERE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Later.......................................Mike
This is VexUs's daddy, could you please tell me exactly how you hooked up both diode types? Can you post some photos please?
Thanks,
GregLast edited by gmeast; 10-23-2008, 03:43 AM.
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Originally posted by NXUS View PostWirewound power resistors that have a slider tap retain their wattage rating since that is determined by the guage of the nicrome wire used in their construction. The only difference moving the slider does is change the resistance due to reducing the total resistor length, the wire guage is constant from one end to the other. The voltage drop across the resistor will vary with the same current, but the wattage handling will be retained.
I hate to disagree, but from the research I have done, I would have to agree with Insane4ever. The wattage does decrease incrementally with the resistance. Please review the pdf data sheet that I have attached. I have highlighted to pertinent information.
@jstadwater,
The resistor controls how fast the cap is being charged, the more resistance that you have the slower the cap charges. When dealing with multiple spark plugs and one cap, the resistor will basically control to what % level you will charge the cap to. Too much resistance and the cap will not fully charge between spark plug firings. This is what Gmeast was explaining in his previous posts on how to size the R1 and C1 at certain RPM's. Depending on the size of your resistor, you probably won't see a decrease in spark effect until you reach higher RPM's and the cap charge percentage decreases.
Hope this helps you to understand,
LapperL
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Originally posted by lapperl View PostLuc,
The AC of the alternator is 3 phase. Is there a way to convert it to single phase to power the MOT?
On my set up. I run the AC through a 3 phase bridge rectifier to get my HV DC.
LapperL
I think there are 2 ways to do it. One way is to have the 3 phases in series, this way you have higher voltage but less current and the other way is all phases grouped in parallel, low voltage but high amps. I don't have the answers as which way would be best. One would need to test to find what works best.
BTW, good video. Thanks for sharing
Luc
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Hi lapperl, I am new to this forum so I am still figuring outy how to do things, you mentioned you had attached a file, how do I retrieve it, not sure where to look?
I am interested in seeing the data as these resistors are designed to meet the specified wattage thruout their resistance range or they would have a graded rating. If i take 10, 10 ohm 1 watt resistors and series them i have 100 ohm 1 watt resistor. If i cut it in the middle i have a 50 ohm 1 watt resistor etc. The tap functions the same way.
Thanks jstadwater and tstorey for the info
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R - C constant very critical to upper limit
Originally posted by lapperl View Post@Nxus,
I hate to disagree, but from the research I have done, I would have to agree with Insane4ever. The wattage does decrease incrementally with the resistance. Please review the pdf data sheet that I have attached. I have highlighted to pertinent information.
@jstadwater,
The resistor controls how fast the cap is being charged, the more resistance that you have the slower the cap charges. When dealing with multiple spark plugs and one cap, the resistor will basically control to what % level you will charge the cap to. Too much resistance and the cap will not fully charge between spark plug firings. This is what Gmeast was explaining in his previous posts on how to size the R1 and C1 at certain RPM's. Depending on the size of your resistor, you probably won't see a decrease in spark effect until you reach higher RPM's and the cap charge percentage decreases.
Hope this helps you to understand,
LapperL
Yes you have the absolute correct grasp of these relationships. Calculate your RC for the highest operational charge frequency and you'll have no change in discharge amplitude from "0" to that upper end. Having a handle on these 'basics' will help keep folks from 'over driving' the system to get better performance and more consistency. Saves frustration too!
Thanks for speaking to this.
Peace,
Greg
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Originally posted by NXUS View PostHi lapperl, I am new to this forum so I am still figuring outy how to do things, you mentioned you had attached a file, how do I retrieve it, not sure where to look?
I am interested in seeing the data as these resistors are designed to meet the specified wattage thruout their resistance range or they would have a graded rating. If i take 10, 10 ohm 1 watt resistors and series them i have 100 ohm 1 watt resistor. If i cut it in the middle i have a 50 ohm 1 watt resistor etc. The tap functions the same way.
Thanks jstadwater and tstorey for the info
where E =voltage
I = current
From ohms law: E = I x R, where R = resistance in ohms
Substituting E with I x R in the power formula gives:
P = (I x R) x I = I(squared) x R
so, When power and resistance is known, I = sqrt(P/R)
for a 1 watt rated 10 ohm resistor dissipating 1 watt:
I = sqrt(P/R) = sqrt(1/10) = sqrt(.1) = .31622777 ampere approx.
To check result above, Work back to get power, P = (.31622777 x 10) x .31622777 = 1 watt
In a series resistor connection, the same current flows through each resistor.
So, ten 1 watt 10-ohm resistors connected in series with each resistor passing .3162277 ampere will have a total power rating of:
P = (.31622777 x 100) x .31622777 = 10 watts.
Similarly, if you have a 100 watt, 100 ohms slider resistor and you use only half of the resistance via the slider, it can only handle 50 watts safely, check it by doing the math, or possible destructive test.
Just my 2 cents.Last edited by insane4evr; 10-23-2008, 04:47 AM.
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I have no problems with the math, but practically as long as you stay within the temperature derating limit all is well. These resistors are designed to meet the wattage rating through out their range.
There is a reason these resistors are made of ceramic, they get hot. They are usually underrated power wise to allow for the the tap. The difference will be the amount of locallized heating that the resistor can tollerate for a given resistance vs current setting. Practically the device should be able to dissipate 100 watts though its range. If this is done the part will dissipate this power over a varying length and varying temperature gradient as a result.
I hope this verbal banter will not cause any ill feelings, as this is not my intent. Differences of opinion often foster new insights.
Let us agree to dissagree,
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