Water Sparkplug

[ashtweth]

Guys, we used this inverter set up in place of the UPs, tried it on 240V 50 hertz, it drew almost 10amps.

In this inverter box we have a 300ohm resistor in place of the light bulb.
ImageShack - Hosting :: rimg0267fc4.jpg
We changed the inverter to 120 volt 60 hertz was slightly less draw, now at about 8 amps peak.

Ideas we have are to put in some diodes so it wont see 13.8 volt and only 12 volt to get the wattage down. Unless there is any thing you want us to try .

[ashtweth]

Rev's circuit

Hi Greg,

Here is Rev's circuit, it is also in the groups PDF
ImageShack - Hosting :: revcircuitbf0.jpg
Updated with all the groups latest results
http://www.panaceauniversity.org/Wat...ark%20Plug.pdf

[ashtweth]

Guys at this stage it looks like the circuit we got working is good to prove a principle, but still too much heat and amp draw for us.

We tried the jacabs ladder test and inserted diodes in series with the input to get the wattage down so it only say 12 volt instead of 13.8 volts.
ImageShack - Hosting :: rimg0268sd0.jpg
Still got a 7 amps draw and resistors (300ohms) got hotish after a few minutes of operation. Have made some footage of it being connected and disconnected increasing the RPM's with the booster attached. Will be up soon.

In conclusion 204 volts form the wall seems good to idle and light a mbulv but if you do what we did and our inverter sucks up 200mA - we drew 9-10 amps Dc at 12 volts from the battery using the 240 volt 50 hertz inverter and hot hot after a few minutes.

Be nice if we could put that into the booster some how



Ash

[Chris31]

@greg/mike/jetijs and other experimenters

Just wondering...have you tried placing a small piece of paper in between the plug gap? would it set the paper on fire after let say 1-5 sparks?

I think this will tell us if the sparks is hot or cold.

[Ansis Freimanis]

My experiments with Pulsed DC

YouTube - Pulsed 14V DC to 220V AC.AVI
It is link to short video. I am experimenting with 14V to 220V converters. And I am "simplicity" lover. I dont like BIG no- effective circuits. My sheme is simple and good. And if You wont You may regulate output from 0 Volts to 220 Volts.

[turbotrana]

What is the main difference between Bills (skyhero) circuit and the circuit that has been created up to now on this thread.

Bill seemed to have a reliable working circuit and this one seems to have issues with the inverter power draw.

Whilst I guess you guys are aiming to get the best possible spark for the water sparkplugs, for the ICE, the spark (plasma) output from Bills circuit MAY already be way past the point of diminishing returns in improving how the engine runs.

[revizal]

Plasma Booster driving test

All,

YouTube - Water Spark Plug-Test Driving

I've completed a driving test on my Nissan Terrano with our last plasma booster ignition. I drove on it for about 30 minutes. I used 600 watt UPS and 100 watt bulb as Amp restriction just like before. It seems no problem. I mean, no heat on UPS, no melting component, and no distortion on car audio.

Before it I've test the all component on board without input power source (= no plasma, but the circuit connected on the original car ignition system) to see what problem I got for 7 days driving on the circuit as the result of engine heat compartment. And I drove the SUV for 600 km to see the effect of shocking effect and heat effect on long driving. I have no problem on it. The circuit still OK. So I began to test the plasma booster with power source (plasma ON) on it. And as you see, it still OK.

But I could not test the fuel consumption yet, caused of the large capacity of my fuel tank (80 liters). I think I will test the consumption on my 2K watt gasoline genset with vary condition (introduting plasma booster on GEET system).

Revizal.

[ashtweth]

Rev great job!! Looks like yours went better then ours, it seems like for 30 minutes the light was okay with the heat, we used resistors so not a good idea

We could spare 10 amps @ 12 volts, or 0.5 at 240 volts as we only needed 20 amps for the booster, so 30 amps is nice and low until will strain the alternator IMO , we are using a 4 cylinder car.

That current limiter needs to goto a booster some how
Well since seeing that we will try it now with the light and booster, hopefully no BOOM
Thanks for giving us confidence man, ill try and run this every day with the booster for all and see if there is any where, looks like we got a free light

[gmeast]

paper

@greg/mike/jetijs and other experimenters

Just wondering...have you tried placing a small piece of paper in between the plug gap? would it set the paper on fire after let say 1-5 sparks?

I think this will tell us if the sparks is hot or cold.

Hi Chris31,

I did the test and the paper mass is too great for an ignition but I did get a burn speck on the paper. I'll try and photograph it and post.

Greg

[lapperl]

Bill's Nexus Circuit Vehicle Install

I have installed the Nexus circuit in my vehicle and have posted a video.

YouTube - Nexus in vehicle_1.AVI

I do not have the inverter or isolation transformer installed in the vehicle yet on the video, but I have completed that since then and have driven it on the road.

In the video, you can see the an amp gauge, I had my 5 amp gauge hooked up and it was pulling around 4 at idle. When I revved the engine up, it would peg the gauge so I installed the cheap Harbor Freight amp gauge which is not as accurate but gives you an idea. I do not believe that it is getting above 7 amps or it would have blown the buss fuses I had hooked up to the inverter input.

I drove the vehicle for a little over an hour last night and almost an hour (33 miles) to work this morning with no major issues. The inverter, diodes, and resistor coil did not get hot, only the isolation transformer got warm to the touch. I would believe that this is normal operation.

The only issue that I could see is that from a dead stop, if I attempt a fast acceleration (half throttle or more) the engine will bog like it is missing. Just like if the spark plug wires were bad. Although this issue is present now whether the inverter is on or off. So I expect that there is some cross talk going on with the wiring that I installed, because it never has done this before. Either that or my spark gap is too large, but I doubt this because I only increased it by 10 thousands and once I am rolling, I do not see this problem. I can accelerate full throttle causing the transmission to down shift into passing gear without any hiccups. It only happens from a dead stop when I apply 1/2 throttle or more. I will try to re-route the wires some and see if this helps. If not, then I am gong to add Bill's original 60 diode bank before the 15 diodes I have going to each plug and see if this solves to problem.

But besides that, it runs very smooth at idle and appears to accelerate well if I do not over do the throttle.

More to come.

LapperL

[gmeast]

paper

paper

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris31 View Post
@greg/mike/jetijs and other experimenters

Just wondering...have you tried placing a small piece of paper in between the plug gap? would it set the paper on fire after let say 1-5 sparks?

I think this will tell us if the sparks is hot or cold.
Hi Chris31,


Reply:
I did the test and the paper mass is too great for an ignition but I did get a burn speck on the paper. I'll try and photograph it and post.

Greg

.................................................. .............

Hi all,

Here are some pics of the paper burn specks.

The circuit is VexUs using 3uF CDI cap, a 22uF storage cap, homemade two transistor oscillator / inverter with voltage doubler (diode - cap ladder).

Greg





..... then I put the paper back and ran it at high speed for a couple of seconds ....

[lapperl]

Bill's Nexus Circuit Vehicle Install Update

Well I should have gone with my gut instinct, it is usually right.

I stopped on the way home and purchased some Champion Platinum spark plugs and left the factory gap setting on 25 thousandths. I figured what the heck they should hold up better in the long run and they were only $2.99 each. I proceeded to re-route the kick wires and shield them with some high voltage shielding that is used on neon signs. When I was on the last plug I realized that the plug wire was not fully engaged on the spark plug.

I also noticed that when I removed the resistor from the spark plugs, there were two where it looked like the #12 copper wire I replaced the resister and spring with were shorting on the inside as if they were too short. I know they were all tight with a good connection. So on the platinum plugs I left the spring in.

We needless to say, it was a 100% improvement. No hesitation at all All is back to above normal. There is a definite increase in power. I do not have to press the accelorator pedal as far to accelerate from a stop and it absolutely idles much smoother. I guess running on all four cylinders will do that.

So I took it for another little test drive (aprox. 15 miles) to the gas station to top off the tank and a little drive around town. Like I said, much improvement.

Next update will be plug condition after a full fuel tank and mileage increase or decrease.

Until Next Time,

LapperL

[ashtweth]

Thx Greg and Well done lapperl!! Is it just me or does that look like the water spark pug effect in the video. If it is , then perhaps it wont be as much wear

[Gibs]

Improvements

Well I should have gone with my gut instinct, it is usually right.

I stopped on the way home and purchased some Champion Platinum spark plugs and left the factory gap setting on 25 thousandths. I figured what the heck they should hold up better in the long run and they were only $2.99 each. I proceeded to re-route the kick wires and shield them with some high voltage shielding that is used on neon signs. When I was on the last plug I realized that the plug wire was not fully engaged on the spark plug.

I also noticed that when I removed the resistor from the spark plugs, there were two where it looked like the #12 copper wire I replaced the resister and spring with were shorting on the inside as if they were too short. I know they were all tight with a good connection. So on the platinum plugs I left the spring in.

We needless to say, it was a 100% improvement. No hesitation at all All is back to above normal. There is a definite increase in power. I do not have to press the accelorator pedal as far to accelerate from a stop and it absolutely idles much smoother. I guess running on all four cylinders will do that.

So I took it for another little test drive (aprox. 15 miles) to the gas station to top off the tank and a little drive around town. Like I said, much improvement.

Next update will be plug condition after a full fuel tank and mileage increase or decrease.

Until Next Time,

LapperL

Hi Lapperl,

Your enthousiasm is contagious. Can't wait to get your results!

I like when you say "above normal".



Gibs

[ashtweth]

FYI From Naresh


I see youtube videos about a nexus design and about a vexus design.

What's the difference between the two?

Of all the schematics I see on the internet, it looks like they all
basically dump a pulse of lower voltage from a capacitor once the
lower voltage arc current path has been established from the ignition
coil.

So then I started think, what would be the best voltage level to store
and dump from a capacitor?

This equation shows how much a capacitor can store:

E=1/2*C*(V^2)

or

Energy Stored on a Capacitor

so it seems like if I stored a higher voltage on a smaller capacitor
it would work better since the amount of energy stored increases
faster with the voltage increase than with the capacitance increase.

Also, the ignition coil already provides the higher voltage.

I can just delay the ignition coil's pulse to the spark plug with a
few turns of the cable around some soft iron.

At the same time just off the HV line from the coil I could send it to
a HV capacitor made of a Teflon cooking sheet rolled up with aluminum
tape of each side.

Teflon has a very high dielectric constant. A 1mm thick sheet is good
up to 60KV.

I wouldn't need a big capacitance since that voltage gets squared in
that equation so it ought to be the biggest contributor to the amount
of energy stored.

Then the only problem is the pulses would go through the distributor
to get to the plugs and so may erode the distributor, but hey, its
going to erode the plugs also anyway if I have too strong of a plasma.

Has anyone tried it this way already?

Naresh