Water Sparkplug

[revizal]

Steam injection on standard ignition

Hi Greg,

I plan to build a steam injection on a standard ignition and standard spark plug. The system will be a mist water create by a high pressure water pump that spray/mist water to a water reservoir. It will make a very fine water particle in the air part in this reservoir (the reservoir filled only in half of water). The water vapour/fine mist will be sucked to a line thru exhaust manifold and then to the air intake (after the air filter). I thought this system will introduce hot steam to the engine (with standard ignition system) in small volume.

Do you think it will work to add MPG ? I mean, on just standard ignition system instead of krupa's like plug even a plasma ignition ?

Rev.

PS: I will post the picture after completed it.

[boostedbb]

It will likely improve your compression, clean your combustion chambers/exhaust and add a small mpg increase. You could expect these improvements on any water injection system.

[boostedbb]

Have we concluded on the best, simplest circuit design yet? It seems we have many circuits. Can we agree on which is the best for the masses?

ease of replication
durability
effectiveness
cost

Then we have the ball type plugs that are now being tested. Could we find out what the intentions of the manufacturer are? Will they be mass produced? It is obvious just by the pictures that the design is far better than any mass produced plug we have available now.

steam injection I believe is the final peice of the puzzle. Great work gmeast. I currently have a copper coil around one of my header pipes trying to figure the best way to make steam from wasted heat.

plasma circuit
firestorm type plug
water injection (steam)

I know fuel management (leaning) and timing are other important considerations, but with the above 3 things we should all have significant gains towards our freedom.


Warren

[gmeast]

steam

Hi Greg,

I plan to build a steam injection on a standard ignition and standard spark plug. The system will be a mist water create by a high pressure water pump that spray/mist water to a water reservoir. It will make a very fine water particle in the air part in this reservoir (the reservoir filled only in half of water). The water vapour/fine mist will be sucked to a line thru exhaust manifold and then to the air intake (after the air filter). I thought this system will introduce hot steam to the engine (with standard ignition system) in small volume.

Do you think it will work to add MPG ? I mean, on just standard ignition system instead of krupa's like plug even a plasma ignition ?

Rev.

PS: I will post the picture after completed it.

Hi Rev,

I do think it will increase efficiency as long as it is steam and NOT fine water droplets. I believe the steam acts like an inert gas and absorbs energy from the combustion of the fuel-air and generates pressure in the steam in exchange. The end pressure will be similar but the temperature of the gases in the chamber will be lower. Now less energy is rejected from cooling the engine. It needs to be allot of of steam though.

Good luck. Sounds good!

Greg

[gmeast]

leanning and other adjustments

Have we concluded on the best, simplest circuit design yet? It seems we have many circuits. Can we agree on which is the best for the masses?

ease of replication
durability
effectiveness
cost

Then we have the ball type plugs that are now being tested. Could we find out what the intentions of the manufacturer are? Will they be mass produced? It is obvious just by the pictures that the design is far better than any mass produced plug we have available now.

steam injection I believe is the final peice of the puzzle. Great work gmeast. I currently have a copper coil around one of my header pipes trying to figure the best way to make steam from wasted heat.

plasma circuit
firestorm type plug
water injection (steam)

I know fuel management (leaning) and timing are other important considerations, but with the above 3 things we should all have significant gains towards our freedom.


Warren

Hi Warren,

I suddenly realized that when steam is ingested with the intake air and fuel (easiest config), there is an unavoidable fuel enrichment because the steam is replacing some of the air volume but doesn't contain any free oxygen for combustion. Yet the total mass airflow is the same. So there is too much fuel for the air coming in. Because of this there needs to be some leaning of the fuel air ratio so it will actually be the same as initially ... whew!

Yes and timing too ... don't know how much though.

Also, Gotoluc told me that he once wrapped a copper tube around the exhaust to generate steam, went on a trip and upon examining the tube upon his return, it has literally disintegrated ... steam ate it up i guess. My new steam manifold (feed tube) is steel. Stainless would be best I think. just a suggestion.

Thanks and good luck,

Greg

[demios]

What an excellent progress you're all making !!! I am amazed and in awe !!!

Now, I have a few suggestions (I plan on incorporating them on my car):

1. Steam should be used with HHO. Why? - Because it's easily ignited and steam isn't, so it brings the mixture to a more reasonable level of ignitability. In other words, makes the steam easier to explode + it adds more energy to the system.

2. Spark amplifier is a "must have" on every car. No point explaining this one

3. Firestorm spark plugs, or replicas, or anything similar to them. Sharp edges on sparks are a bad thing. Remember what Robert Krupa said: the ground electrode wants to be a ball. Tesla's work supports that. So, anything but sharp edges!

And if I may, I'd like to ask you some small questions:

1. Which circuit do you all prefer? Do we have a consensus on that one?

2. Why wouldn't we try to supply standard Ignition Coil with 16V instead of 12V? That would increase the power input by 33%. Of course, if the coil can handle that much juice.

3. Why is the polarity reversed on the VexUs circuit (I have the Panacea PDF that was mentioned some posts ago). Although, my el. knowledge is limited, I'm trying to catchup (pun intended ) as much as I can.

4. This is my car's el.scheme (attached). I have a waste spark system (Peugeot and Citroen like it because of some reason), would it impare the performance of spark amplifier circuits?

Sorry for this many questions, I sincerely hope I didn't bore you all.

Thank you soooo very much for everything you're doing! Gos bless you all !

[gmeast]

why is the Vexus polarity reversed?

What an excellent progress you're all making !!! I am amazed and in awe !!!

Now, I have a few suggestions (I plan on incorporating them on my car):

1. Steam should be used with HHO. Why? - Because it's easily ignited and steam isn't, so it brings the mixture to a more reasonable level of ignitability. In other words, makes the steam easier to explode + it adds more energy to the system.

2. Spark amplifier is a "must have" on every car. No point explaining this one

3. Firestorm spark plugs, or replicas, or anything similar to them. Sharp edges on sparks are a bad thing. Remember what Robert Krupa said: the ground electrode wants to be a ball. Tesla's work supports that. So, anything but sharp edges!

And if I may, I'd like to ask you some small questions:

1. Which circuit do you all prefer? Do we have a consensus on that one?

2. Why wouldn't we try to supply standard Ignition Coil with 16V instead of 12V? That would increase the power input by 33%. Of course, if the coil can handle that much juice.

3. Why is the polarity reversed on the VexUs circuit (I have the Panacea PDF that was mentioned some posts ago). Although, my el. knowledge is limited, I'm trying to catchup (pun intended ) as much as I can.

4. This is my car's el.scheme (attached). I have a waste spark system (Peugeot and Citroen like it because of some reason), would it impare the performance of spark amplifier circuits?

Sorry for this many questions, I sincerely hope I didn't bore you all.

Thank you soooo very much for everything you're doing! God bless you all !

Hi demios,

When I designed the VexUs piggyback circuit I was trying to make something that required the fewest number of components possible. Another piggyback circuit had some unique issues such as 'cross talk' and I wanted to solve that with a new circuit. But the new circuit had to have a basis in the original Water Spark Plug circuit effect observed by Gotoluc ... that is charge a capacitor in an isolated configuration then discharge that capacitor (somehow) to the spark plug and "trick" the energy with a DIODE so that ALL goes across the spark plug gap instead of more conventional paths to ground. The 'reversed' polarity is just how it turned out after many tests of many configurations. It turned out to have problems of its own however because it has an unparalleled ability to blow up inverters. A great search was on for a simple 'bulletproof' oscillator that handled the rigors the VexUs circuit threw at it. That was hit-and-miss at best but finally we were able to start testing.

ANSWER: it just turned out that way.

Thanks. Peace,

Greg

[boostedbb]

Hi Warren,

I suddenly realized that when steam is ingested with the intake air and fuel (easiest config), there is an unavoidable fuel enrichment because the steam is replacing some of the air volume but doesn't contain any free oxygen for combustion. Yet the total mass airflow is the same. So there is too much fuel for the air coming in. Because of this there needs to be some leaning of the fuel air ratio so it will actually be the same as initially ... whew!

Yes and timing too ... don't know how much though.

Also, Gotoluc told me that he once wrapped a copper tube around the exhaust to generate steam, went on a trip and upon examining the tube upon his return, it has literally disintegrated ... steam ate it up i guess. My new steam manifold (feed tube) is steel. Stainless would be best I think. just a suggestion.

Thanks and good luck,

Greg

Hi Greg, thanks for the reply.

Being extra rich from the steam seems plausible, but while using the plasma circuit and proper plug electrode configuration your end result should be added fuel and added oxidizer in the appropriate proportions.

Thanks for the heads up on the copper around the header. I am leaning towards making a type of shroud/enclosure for a section of the header tube and having a water inlet and a steam outlet nipple. That way I would get use of a greater heated area.

Warren

[Kinetix]

Hi, guys.
I am wondering about that destroyed copper tube issue. I think it must have been the cavitation effect or the corrosive effect of the minerals in water. I cannot figure another cause...
If the minerals are to be blamed, than using distilled water will solve the problem.
If it's the cavitation, than the solution is harder to find. Would't the effect be observable using the steel tube? I don't know...
Best wishes.

[alsy]

I suddenly realized that when steam is ingested with the intake air and fuel (easiest config), there is an unavoidable fuel enrichment because the steam is replacing some of the air volume but doesn't contain any free oxygen for combustion. Yet the total mass airflow is the same. So there is too much fuel for the air coming in. Because of this there needs to be some leaning of the fuel air ratio so it will actually be the same as initially ... Greg

Greg, I realise you are talking about carburetted vehicles such your VW we have been seeing here under your continued testing. I would like to point out the obvious in case it is not so apparent to anyone here.
For fuel injected cars, (which is all modern cars and a good majority of cars on the road), there would be a leaning of the fuel mixture due to the computer reading a lower oxygen content from the oxygen sensors.

[gmeast]

leaning

Greg, I realise you are talking about carburetted vehicles such your VW we have been seeing here under your continued testing. I would like to point out the obvious in case it is not so apparent to anyone here.
For fuel injected cars, (which is all modern cars and a good majority of cars on the road), there would be a leaning of the fuel mixture due to the computer reading a lower oxygen content from the oxygen sensors.

Hi alsy,

Thanks for pointing this out. This would be a good thing then, right?

Greg

[demios]

Theoretically it should, because you can override the oxygen sensor with a variable pot, and make it think it's running rich. Doing this on a petrol engine, with no steam/hho/geet mods, would cause it to run very hot, and eventually burn the valves, thus reducing compression, power and fuel economy.

But, it would be probably, easier (since you have carburetor) to tighten the IDLE and MAIN jet a little bit (make it run leaner) and introduce the steam to compensate for the higher operating temperature when running lean.

If you add up a small HHO cell (1 lpm is enough, I think, for the beginning) you can really improve the combustion process. People reported that engine runs cooler with HHO.

Here's a link to a genuine HHO experience:
http://www.takeaction.com.au/hoh/Studies/datsun120y.asp
The guys reduced the consumption by 50% !!! So, this is definitely a way to go.

Adding a OXY sensor to your bug would cost you, I guess, quite a bit. So, try to find the simplest computer+OXY and monopoint injection you can. This way you can take out the carb, remove the float bowl cooling system you installed and, maybe, gain more control over the system.

On the other hand, you can simply do this:

1. Simply measure the exhaust temperature with an on board temp gauge to establish a baseline temperature.

2. Then start leaning it out with and observe the temperature change. Since your motor is air cooled, you should maybe, drive it around in circles to avoid overheating, but not far from the garage and observe the temp change each time you lean it out.

3. When your exhaust temp rises some 100*C, add the steam and drive it to see the differences in temperature and loss of power (if any).

4. When you're satisfied with results add VexUS and observe the temp and power again.

5. If you have money and time add a small HHO cell. The preferable design is identical to JoeCell. In other words, 5 concentric SS tubes in destilled water with a drop of lye. Maybe you should make a small circuit for the cell. The one that will reduce the amperage as the rpm falls, and increase ti when rpm rises.

If you have any thoughts on these suggestions please tell. As soon as the winter passes, I'll do the fore mentioned things on my car We're gonna have soo much fun

God bless!

[gmeast]

leaning

Theoretically it should, because you can override the oxygen sensor with a variable pot, and make it think it's running rich. Doing this on a petrol engine, with no steam/hho/geet mods, would cause it to run very hot, and eventually burn the valves, thus reducing compression, power and fuel economy.

But, it would be probably, easier (since you have carburetor) to tighten the IDLE and MAIN jet a little bit (make it run leaner) and introduce the steam to compensate for the higher operating temperature when running lean.

If you add up a small HHO cell (1 lpm is enough, I think, for the beginning) you can really improve the combustion process. People reported that engine runs cooler with HHO.

Here's a link to a genuine HHO experience:
http://www.takeaction.com.au/hoh/Studies/datsun120y.asp
The guys reduced the consumption by 50% !!! So, this is definitely a way to go.

Adding a OXY sensor to your bug would cost you, I guess, quite a bit. So, try to find the simplest computer+OXY and monopoint injection you can. This way you can take out the carb, remove the float bowl cooling system you installed and, maybe, gain more control over the system.

On the other hand, you can simply do this:

1. Simply measure the exhaust temperature with an on board temp gauge to establish a baseline temperature.

2. Then start leaning it out with and observe the temperature change. Since your motor is air cooled, you should maybe, drive it around in circles to avoid overheating, but not far from the garage and observe the temp change each time you lean it out.

3. When your exhaust temp rises some 100*C, add the steam and drive it to see the differences in temperature and loss of power (if any).

4. When you're satisfied with results add VexUS and observe the temp and power again.

5. If you have money and time add a small HHO cell. The preferable design is identical to JoeCell. In other words, 5 concentric SS tubes in destilled water with a drop of lye. Maybe you should make a small circuit for the cell. The one that will reduce the amperage as the rpm falls, and increase ti when rpm rises.

If you have any thoughts on these suggestions please tell. As soon as the winter passes, I'll do the fore mentioned things on my car We're gonna have soo much fun

God bless!

Hi Demios,

You spent much time and thought on this. Good suggestions. Thanks.

Peace,

Greg

[Kinetix]

Hello, everybody.
I have asked this simple question at least three times, I think, and nobody answerred. Never mind...
I will ask it another time, as it could prove beneficial for many of us:
HAS ANYBODY TRIED TO ADD A CAPACITOR (e.g C2) BETWEEN THE CENTER TAP OF TRANSFORMER AND GROUND TO CHECK IF IT IMPROVES THE EFICIENCY?
Thanks.
I have attached a schematic of the oscilator. I have added a few parts:
- a voltage limiter
- a small inductor for limiting the "noise"
- a capacitor (C2) to improve the shape of the oscilating signal.

Best wishes.

[Jetijs]

Kinetix,
yes, I tried to put a cap where you said, it did not change anything. But I was using a variable power supply for this and not a battery, so the power supply might already have enough capacitance built in. Have not tried this on a battery.