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Water Sparkplug Practical Application

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  • #16
    If you can't get that to work, we can go the route Im going with a standalone Fuel/Ignition Computer. This will probably where you will want to go eventually anyway to have more control over the whole process.

    That is the main reason Im going to try a Rotary first because it will take allot of the complications of tunning a standard ICE conversion away.

    RedMeanie
    (psst...Don't Tell Anyone, But I'm Really Not Mean!)

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    • #17
      Forgot

      Also if you can convert your distributor to a later "Hall Effect Sensor" Type then this will be ALLOT Easier, and more effective.

      RedMeanie
      (psst...Don't Tell Anyone, But I'm Really Not Mean!)

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      • #18
        Some more advice to?

        Originally posted by Aaron View Post
        Jetijs,

        If you have the HV diode input at the low voltage + on the coil and the HV diode output connected directly to the coil's HV output...it will automatically be at every plug when the distributor makes the connection.

        Simply connect both ends of the HV diode directly between coil + input and coil + output. The diode input doesn't have to be connected to the + on the capacitor...when the capacitor dumps to coil, it is automatically there anyway.


        Hello Aaron,

        would appreciate very much, if you might give more details to your suggested wiring of the "Jetis 4-cylinder distributer" engine. (Want to play around with a similar type, but already EFI in it. Not water yet, but leaning out).

        How can we bring LV (high current) to each spark?
        And from what source (inverter, capacitor)?

        Sorry when such question already answerd.

        Best regards
        magnetO
        Last edited by magnetO; 07-16-2008, 09:58 AM.

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        • #19
          hv diode directly on coil

          Hi Magneto,

          For simplicity, the HV diode can simply be directly connected on the coil from the primary + to the secondary HV output like in my pic. If you look at any of the diagrams, this is actually what the circuit actually is. Seeing the diode connected to the capacitor + is misleading...in my opinion.

          When a capacitor is dumped to the primary, it is automatically connected to the diode. The diode serves a different purpose than putting low voltage high current pulse to plug. I will do my best to show this soon. It serves a different purpose...I basically explained it in my first 2 youtube videos on this spark effect.
          Sincerely,
          Aaron Murakami

          Books & Videos https://emediapress.com
          Conference http://energyscienceconference.com
          RPX & MWO http://vril.io

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          • #20
            >The diode serves a different purpose than putting low voltage high current pulse to plug.

            Yes, the "others" say, enhancing current DURING spark plug firing. YOU say, giving a voltage potential all the time BEFORE spark plug firing.

            But doesnt your [+prim HV-Diode +sec] only give 12V-Batterie potential to the plug (outer electrode GND(12V) - inner electrode +12V) before (when not) firing. And dont we want more, say 120..240VDC? AND thats we use the inverter with all the protecting problems?

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            • #21
              Rusting?

              Hi everyone,

              This water spark plug has indeed got my attention, but I was wondering, if we would get able to run a car by using this technique, then we also need to find a way to prevent rusting of the motor components. I wonder if they build motors from stainless steel, or some kind of material which resists rusting.

              Anyone has any ideas or thoughts?

              Elias
              Humility, an important property for a COP>1 system.
              http://blog.hexaheart.org

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              • #22
                Originally posted by elias View Post
                Hi everyone,

                This water spark plug has indeed got my attention, but I was wondering, if we would get able to run a car by using this technique, then we also need to find a way to prevent rusting of the motor components. I wonder if they build motors from stainless steel, or some kind of material which resists rusting.

                Anyone has any ideas or thoughts?

                Elias
                Yes, Aluminum. There are also coatings that are applied to engine internals that are used in performance engine builds that will do this also. Plus using lubricants that are used in steam engines will take care of the rest.

                RedMeanie
                (psst...Don't Tell Anyone, But I'm Really Not Mean!)

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                • #23
                  Rust prevention..............

                  Most late model engines already have aluminum block and head(s), and piston tops, the piston rings would probably be ok with the oil lubrication they receive already. All you should have to do then is install a set of stainless steel valves into the head(s). We use stainless valves in our performance engines here anyway, last longer and give less problems in high performance apps. A lot of the newer cars come with stainless exhaust systems in place already as well. Any other thoughts from others reading.....?
                  IF IT DOESN'T EXIST, CREATE IT!!!

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                  • #24
                    Here is the circuit I came up based on Red's suggestion:



                    Any comments?
                    It's better to wear off by working than to rust by doing nothing.

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                    • #25
                      Looks Good To Me.....

                      Did you check the contacts on the cap and rotor to see if 12V will jump it?
                      RedMeanie
                      (psst...Don't Tell Anyone, But I'm Really Not Mean!)

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                      • #26
                        No, not yet, but I checked my spark plugs, three of them have no resistor in them, but one does. I will have to replace it. If the circuit is ok and there will be no problems with the contacts, I will try to get all the parts needed tomorrow
                        It's better to wear off by working than to rust by doing nothing.

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by Jetijs View Post
                          No, not yet, but I checked my spark plugs, three of them have no resistor in them, but one does. I will have to replace it. If the circuit is ok and there will be no problems with the contacts, I will try to get all the parts needed tomorrow
                          Also one other thing we can try is add to the load on the relay coil ground side to try and make the jump happen.

                          Keep us posted!

                          RedMeanie
                          (psst...Don't Tell Anyone, But I'm Really Not Mean!)

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                          • #28
                            Ups, just found an error in my circuit. The relay makes the pulse, but does not disconnect the power supply at the same time. Will correct this now.
                            It's better to wear off by working than to rust by doing nothing.

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by Jetijs View Post
                              Ups, just found an error in my circuit. The relay makes the pulse, but does not disconnect the power supply at the same time. Will correct this now.
                              Yeah DOH!....I'm
                              RedMeanie
                              (psst...Don't Tell Anyone, But I'm Really Not Mean!)

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                              • #30
                                Ok, here is the updated circuit:
                                It's better to wear off by working than to rust by doing nothing.

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