Hydrogen Booster: Question on the Smack booster design.

[Pierre Monteux]

Alright I've done a bit of reading through the forum and elsewhere, and I'm trying to decide what design of hydrogen booster for a car is best.

My car is a 1991 Honda Civic 4x4, fuel injection with ECU.

Now I've looked thoroughly at smacks hydrogen booster, and it looks simple enough except for a couple things.

I understand completely that there needs to be a compensation for the signal fed out of the O2 sensor upstream of the catalytic converter. Electronics are really my stronger point.

My questions are more related to the electrolyzer. The smack booster seems a good choice to me in that with the exception of the potassium hydroxide, everything should be easily obtained from a store like Menards. The plates specifically though are making me wonder for two reasons. My first concern is from seeing the image on this page. A bit more information on the booster those plates came out of is here. Scroll down to the captions of the pictures about halfway down.

Now, I couldn't find out there what electrolyte was used, or if distilled water was even used. I know impurities and some electrolytes will cause the plates to degrade as other reactions other than the electrolysis of water take place. My first question is if I use steel receptacle covers using KOH and distilled water, will the plates break down in 4 months to a year? I'm not certain if those plates are stainless steel, though it sounds like they are.

In the guide for the booster, it mentions first creating little dimples in the plate with a hammer and a center punch. After that is said to have the plates sandblasted. I can't really see how this improves the design, but I don't really know much about it. I can create the dimples if that does help, but I don't have any way to sandblast something. Are those steps really necessary?

My last question relates to the location of the booster on the car. I remember reading (I think it was an old post on this forum, but I can't find it now) that it is ok to mount the electrolyzer on the front bumper or grill of the car; if I remember correctly that was encouraged. I think it would simplify things if it was mounted on the outside, since I can't really think of a good place under the hood to put it. As long as it is mounted securely, is it safe enough to have it in front of the car?

If there is another design that would be better suited for me I'd appreciate the input.

[wantfreeenergy]

I've read before of impurities and using the wrong electrolyte will cause the plates to be eaten away like that. If I remember baking soda is one of em. But as far as dependability goes I can't give you my testament that it will last for years if using the proper build. I've only had one for a short time. Although I do know that in a book I downloaded from the net that it states the original person who created the smack had it running for over a year with no erosion and still functioning properly. All I've ever heard is not to drill your plates. Less surface area for the current to be emenating from results in less gass flow, makes sense.

I only sanded my plates, I didn't do the dimples or the sandblasting. The idea is to create TONS of little spikes/valleys. Many experienced hho builders sand their plates in a criss-cross fashion. It is said it will really help generate gas, and without doing it you will get up to 40% less gass flow. I simply used some coarse sandpaper, 65 grit I believe. Coarse sandpaper is better. Also you only need to sand the reactive surface areas, it's a waste of effort to sand everything.

About drilling the holes. To make drilling the holes a breeze use a Unibit, it's a drillbit that goes from 1/8" up to 1/2". It's made for punching VERY clean holes in thin sheets of metal like your house electrical box. Another benefit of the bit is how clean it makes the holes in the plates. My first smack I just used a regular bit and it was a mess. The second one I'm conditioning right now seems to be generating more gas cus it's better built than my first. Simply from that bit.

And I gotta say it works very well. My vehicle was a slow creeping machine. Now it actually works, and it has power.

[sucahyo]

For clear look plastic use KOH, for milky look plastic use NaOH. For water, just use everything you have and only place the HHO output before air filter. NaOH foam can make your engine dirty.

The plate will always corroded in electrolysis, spesifically the positive part. This is the reason why many would choose the best stainless steel, 316L. The electrolysis rate usually measured by the Ampere used. Electrolyte concentration would increase the amp draw. High concentration will draw more amp and can exceed safe 10Amp draw for your car.

Watch for heat generation too. Don't boil the water too much or the container may melt.

[Pierre Monteux]

Alright that puts my mind at ease a little bit. I have sandpaper. The unibits are pricey, I think I'll try a standard bit for now, but I'll keep that in mind if I make a booster for all of my family's cars.

I'll definitely not put any more holes in the plates other than the two that keep them together. The sandpaper increasing the surface area makes more sense to me than all those dimples. It would also create a more uniform distance between the plate so the resistance between them would be uniform for the entire plate.

only 10 amps? The smack booster guide was targeting 20 amps, and others I saw targeted more. I know the car can handle a 20 amp draw, but is that too much for an optimum gain in milage?

I'd read somewhere the gain at higher speed was less because of less gas produced per unit of gasoline. Looking at the design of the smack booster, it is essentially two cells of 8 plates each. Would it be beneficial to have each cell on its own switch. That would drop the 20 amp draw to 10, but leave the option for the full 20 amp draw on the interstate if needed.

[wantfreeenergy]

I assumed the Unibits were pricy too. The size I bought was only $18. And on my first smack design I just bought two 5/16" metal drill bits. The bits were dull after drilling probably less than half the plates. I had to use all my weight to force those bits through the metal and it would turn the metal red hot right around the hole while I was trying to drill em. It would also cause small warps and leave bits and pieces that I couldn't get off. And when I tried to put that cell in it's container I had to STUFF it in there. My second smack cell I'm still conditioning right now slides right into the container and all the plates are even from each other. I believe this cell is working better. I'm gonna take my other one apart soon and clean all the holes and see if I can get it put together my better one. One last thing on the bits, "since I'm trying to sell you on building the best quality cell", I spent $7 for both regular bits for my first cell. And I needed at least 4-5 of those bits cause of how quickly they dulled. My friend purchased a regular bit and it drilled one hole and was completely dull, then it began burning the metal as he tried to drill the second hole. Kinda long on the bit, but I'm just saying the cell works much better if you can get the holes nice and flush and clean."perfect"

For the amp draw I recall reading that you want to add enough electrolyte to get the amp draw at 16a while the cell is cold/right when you turn it on. That way as it warms up it will be at it's operating range of 20a. As far as I know you wanna run this cell at 20a.

Another thing, I'll try to find the link to an updated pic of the smack cell. It has 18 plates total now. 9 on each side. Basically on the the ends of the smack where there is the two plates you wanna have 3 there. I'll find a pic. it's easier for me to explain that way. And also if you put shrink wrap around the cell that helps. Adding the extra plates on each end drops the amp draw on each reactive surface a little bit which helps reduce heat. And putting shrink wrap around the sides of it causes the electricity to flow THROUGH the plates instead of all willy-nilly in the water. This also helps reduce heat. Someone on youtube was driving 11 hours with his smack and he had no heat issues.

I'll try to be back soon with pics and that youtube link.

[wantfreeenergy]

Sure didn't take me long. I knew right where to look.

Youtube YouTube - Mods to the Smack
If the link doesn't work, then search for: mods to the smack

And in chapter 10 page 16 there is a picture of the 18 plate design.
Free-Energy Devices, zero-point energy, and water as fuel

[sucahyo]

For the same Amp draw bigger surface is better, as long as all the surface produce bubble evenly.

I mention 10 Amp for power draining and heat consideration. Good design usually has output around 1 liter per minute at 10Amp, which usually enough for most engine.

[ShamanSaid]

I've seen a lot that punching holes in the plates destroys smooth charge flow /resonance across the plates (some might call it exergy). Also, though you lose surface area of the plates and have unsubmerged wiring which is imo a disaster waiting to happen.

I've got a SUPER SIMPLE design that works well and involves no holes in the plates.

In my small cell, I have 12-14 plates 2" x 6" 316L that are snugged together with 2 1/2" Nylon Threaded Rod - one on the bottom, one on top - and 1/2" washers as spacers.

You just take your threaded rod put a 1/2" nylon nut on it load up the washers, put the other nut on, ditto the other, then lay it horizontal and slip your plates in between and tighten the nuts to make snug, it will be tight enough you can pick it up with nylon rod (but don't do that).

Then take a small plastic piece and tap every other rod out slightly almost a bit more than the washer spacing you have. You then lay another 2"x6" plate (or larger) across the edges and lightly tap till flush.

Next take a piece of acrylic (or teflon sheet or whatever corrosion resistant stuff you got thats somewhat rigid) and cut it a bit wider than your charging plates (I call them charge buses). Drill a few small holes, on a 2"x6" I'm using 3 holes with 4-40 Nylon rod (very small) and you compress your charging plates together.

I put on the bottom of the cell the two charging terminals, just 316L bolts, when you place your cell in the charging plates should rest upon the charging bolts (the charge plates can slide slightly up and down and so easily adjust).

Depending on the cell container and other things you may need to put small tweaks with spacers to keep from moving around too much but that's easy.

At the top all you'll have is your gas output / water in/out this reduces any chance of an arc.

I recently got this thing humming along with the top open in a bucket test with charge plates connected from top and it was putting out a steady visible fog of hho (at around 80 F so not steam) by accident I touched the top terminal with my long mulitmeter prong (had about 15 amp 25 volts going and it) well lit arc'd and exploded the gas 1ft in front of my face blowing me back 4-5ft and toss the multimeter up in the air.

I never heard anyone explode the gas like that before so I didn't think it was possible until that happened. Anyway, be careful - I used KOH about half a fist full in a gall of water.

[wantfreeenergy]

mileage guestimations

My odometer and my fuel gauge do not work 100% of the time. They are typically off. So I have no true way to measure my gains using these two smacks and a single efie.(getting a second efie in couple days.)

But I took a trip few days ago and my gas gauge will turn on and off now and again. The trip going one way took up half of a tank of gas last time I drove in the RPM range I was in. And this time I was doing the same thing and I was up in the same RPM range. Yet this time my fuel gauge when I got home read to me that it used only slightly less than a quarter of a tank. "I had the gut feeling my fuel gauge was gonna turn on so I went outside into my vehicle and turned on the key,....waited a moment,.....it turned on."

I wish I could talk my family into getting some of these on their vehicles but they are afraid of voiding their warranty. "STOOOOPID"

Anyhow, I believe that I have doubled my fuel milage. I know it's soon and I don't have a true way to measure scientifically. But I still believe that it is correct.

[sucahyo]

If you feel your car become more powerfull and smell less too than you have a success.