Muller generator replication by Romerouk

[blackchisel97]

I don't recall him saying how large was a gap. All I have is this pic.
I'll keep looking for spools.

V

[blackchisel97]

I found some spools here - http://www.periplast.de/fileadmin/pe...and_spools.pdf

V

[ren]

Rod its a non magnetic spacer. I think he said he used a plastic washer. It is also the stator housing. I believe his cores do not go all the way through the acrylic.

Regarding bobbins. Im not 100% sure yet but I going to try a sewing thread bobbin you can get at Woolworths. I'll post a pic when I get it. Its considerably longer however.

Regards

[N O G]

Gaps and coils

Pictured Below is Romerouk work

Hi there Rod,
Between the rotor magnet and coil is 3.5 - 4 mm , the coil is 1cm from the soft iron washer , then the outside magnet is stuck to the washer as i see it . Im going to wind my coils so the negative wire is closest to the core when wound how about you . cheers Jason

[tjnlsn255]

Why 2 hall devices?

Why not put the motor coils in series or parallel and then you only need one hall switch....

I am following this with much interest.....:-)

Hopes and dreams.....

Todd

[john_g]

Spacing

Hi Toranarod

Re the gap, he did say:

"Make sure that spacing betwen the coils or between the magnets on the rotor is equally spaced. The distance betwen the coils and the rotor must be adjusted depending on the magnets used, core... Too close is not neccesary good."

Although I cannot find the quote, I thought he said the gap was 3.5 -4.00mm, although I see on one drawing that figure is shown as the offset of the magnet from the rim - so maybe I read it wrong.

Regards

John

[redrichie]

concerning the vids. Anyone else notice that NOT ALL the magnets on the top plate of the generator are there. And if im seeing correctly the ones that are there are not all the same size. Look at 1:57 of this vid:
YouTube - free energy device self running powering lightbulb - RomeroUK Muller Motor - Generator
Muller sad "By cleverly balancing".

Also if you put a strong neo on a small ferrite rod, even with a spacer, it is magnetized like the magnet. So in essence the cores are in repulsion with the rotor magnets until a drive coil is triggered. When it is triggered the coil fires a pulse hard enough to produce an opposite polarity in the magnetized core. (he said he was running stronger in attraction mode) When the pulse is done the core returns to its magnetized pole and helps push the rotor magnet as it passes. So it attracts very strong with the pulse, and then uses a natural, FREEEE, push from the returning magnetic field. 2 for the price of one. This is Regauging correct?
But this makes me wonder if the magnets that ARE ON the top plate are all orientated the way it is posted. With all N poles facing down to the rotor. Because if you were to cleverly balance out the magnetic fields Like Muller said, a large N pole magnet on a ferrite generator coil would have a double bounce generating effect similar to the drive coil. But using brute force to push the rotor through the field. The next generator coil may have a smaller but OPPOSITELY polarized core the help balance and pull the rotor through the stronger preceding generating coil. I find it hard understand that small of a drive coil firing one at a time to overcome all that repulsive energy of those large neos. Unless the flywheel of the rotor is pushing it through. Sorry if this is distracting

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, I'm posting my progress on this forum, the other forum thread is all over the map, nobody even replies to posts it seems.
I fired up my setup with just the 5 coil/cores, only one driving coil in repulsion, just to see if it would spin up to a decent rpm.
At 12 volts it's probably around 500 rpm, though with using the reed switch, the pulse on time may be too long or the 24 gauge wire may be drawing too much amperage as the coil/core is getting rather hot.
Of course it could be the steel bolt, though I've had similar steel bolts run cold to the touch in other pulse motors.
So my guess is too much amps for this coil.
It was drawing 700 milliamps no load, and when I shorted one coil it only rose about 50 milliamps.
The reed switch is only temporary for testing.
Anyway, this was just to see if it would even spin up properly.
Though of course, eventually I will get get ferrite cores or equivalent.
Your comments are very welcome, even though I know this setup is not the same, it's the only materials I have for now.


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peace love light
tyson

[citfta]

At least you are doing something

Hi tyson,

Great to see some work progressing on the build. I have some litz wire on order so hope to get started soon myself. I am going to use my window motor as a drive source since I know I can get it to run with a very low current draw and am more familiar with how to get what I want from it. I have some magnets and am trying to decide if they are too big for what I want to build. Still looking for some suitable cores. I understand you are using what you have as I am to start with, but I really think you will not have much success until you get some good cores. I have had good results using electric fence wire cut into short pieces (same length as core) and packed tightly into the center of the coil. This may work for us until we can get some of the right ferrite cores. I will be watching with anticipation your build and will share what I have done as soon as I get something done.

Good luck, Carroll

[SkyWatcher]

Hi Carroll, thanks for replying to my post. Ok, I think i figured out why the coil/core was heating so much, the reed switch was sticking intermittently.
Yes, these bolt cores have way too much eddy currents flowing through them. If I move the rotor away some distance, it spins forever.

So definitely going to have to figure out another core, though In the meantime I will make a few more tests with this setup, though i think i will not bother winding the other 5 bolt cores.
I have to say though, with only the 1 coil driving this, it did a pretty good job fighting all those eddy currents in the bolt cores, so i can only imagine what ferrite would be like.
It should fly without those eddy currents.
Though Bill Muller said that hardened steel, like ball bearings would work fairly well also.
I have these large ferrite beads, 3/4" diameter X 1-1/8" long, I think I'll wind a few hundred turns of 24 gauge on one and see how good of a magnetic field is created.
They are $3.15 for 9 at surplus shop.
I have 4 already, here is a pic of them.


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peace love light
tyson

[gene gene]

Would like to help

Hi all, I hope & pray RomeroUK is OK.
I have little electronic knowledge, but learning much here. I am starting to put together an electronics bench now, a little at a time, limited funds.
I would very much like to help here & was thinking if someone here could post a drawing (in inches), of an ideal size spool. Could I not then build these spools for you in my wood working shop? I have a nice drill press, & large Milwaukee hole saw kit (in inches), with many sizes. Thin wall plastic tubing & sheet plastic, glue?
Thanks & best wishes to all here, Gene

[Turion]

Here is a link for ferrite cores.
Ferrite Rods : CWS ByteMark, largest supplier of toroids, ferrite cores, iron powder cores, MPP cores and RF cores
The R-025400-61 most closely duplicates what is needed for this build

[Joit]

Cores

I still stick with my Magnetite on this. It is cheap, you can get a Kg for few bucks, and epoxy, which is not to expansive also. Will try to let it settle next time with Magnets on it, like P. Lindemann suggested. The one i made are average, even when i did not to much test with them, but they still work better as Air cores, and -maybe- as solid Iron cores. Further, i can make any Size i want with a Form, and dont need to look for the right sizes.
Can make them hollow also, when i put a tube ore something at setting into the middle.
I only think about Permeability, from what i know, Nickel can increase it, but its hard to get and toxic. May Copper powder to mix with? Else, i stay at Fe3O4 ironoxide.

Sooner or later i will start one too and use for drive it my pice of Newman motor.
It is efficient too has a good torque and easy to build.
Still thinking about, if it is an advantage, to use the Setup from the Adams Motor, where the Coils have the Size from the Magnetic Force. Or maybe this does make not to much matter anymore, since there should be Magnets at the end of the Coils.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, I wound 24 gauge around one of those large ferrite beads, around 6.5 ohms worth and at 12 volts it repels my 1" diameter X 3/4" long neo magnets on the rotor, very well.
I think I will use these and see how it works.
peace love light
tyson

[ren]

Hi Skywatcher.

I have the same beads at home. I was looking at them last night. There is something to be said for hollow cores Keep it up

Regards