Use for the Tesla Switch

[nvisser]

RS232 cable

I didn't realize that finding 9pin serial cable may be such a problem, and this is the only component missing for my switch

Vtech

If your pc has still got a serial output you can built your own cable. Get 2 x DB9 female connectors. Connect pin 2 to 3 and pin 3 to 2 and 5 to 5
See RS232 serial null modem cable wiring and tutorial

[downunder]

I don't think anyone has posted this yet.

New videos up on John Bedini's youtube channel about solar tesla charger.

YouTube - Energenx Tesla Charger III
YouTube - Energenx Tesla Switch Solar Charger III
YouTube - Energenx Solar Tesla Switch Charger III #2 vid

It looks like he has been busy. Maybe that is why he hasn't posted much here for a few days.

[blackchisel97]

If your pc has still got a serial output you can built your own cable. Get 2 x DB9 female connectors. Connect pin 2 to 3 and pin 3 to 2 and 5 to 5 (actually, I need male to female)
See RS232 serial null modem cable wiring and tutorial

Thanks Vissie, If I can get connectors here I just tried Walmart and two other stores carrying electronics. The only three stores around. I'll check comp. repair shops tomorrow. There are only two I can get one from Ontario or BC, they're only $1.12! but it will take 5 -7 days. You know this feeling when you have everything ready to go and "can't wait" to get it started

Thanks

@downunder Thank you for links!
Vtech

[ldissing]

Yes Leroy,
I do read the progress here, but have been real busy on the earth batteries for the switch. What can I help with? but I think Bit's is right with the bulbs. That video is great since it is using a hidden field, RF power transmitter. all about raising money for the shop........... B.S
John B

Thanks for letting everyone know you are still in the loop JB!

I'm having difficulties, because I don't know where/when the charges are supposed to be flowing.

There are many different setups on this list now. At least the ones shown below and maybe more.

1. Just serial transistors and diodes with two separate loads.
2. Serial transistors and one one each side on the top with only diodes on the bottom, two separate loads.
3. The 6 transistor version, original without the bridge on the bottom and two separate loads.
4. The one posted on your web site, 6 transistor with the bridge on the bottom.

I have run each of these different setups. I have not done much with #4 above, but I have run each of the others and mostly work with the 6 transistor version (#3) , while Bits is running #2 mostly I believe.

Is there a preferred embodiment for the novices (I'm including myself in that category)? I believe that #3 above is the most straight forward, but I'm no expert, and you are, which is why I seek your opinion. Which version above will (should?) yield the best results based on your work with the various versions of the switch?

I've had the switch running since you gave us the directions on the 3 battery version to show us how the potential flowed. It is easy to light a lamp, but to get "real" sustained charging, that is a different matter.

The devices are the key, you have already said that. There are many ways of turning those devices on/off, but the original design had them all turning on and off at one time (i.e. SG3524, only two signals, one for each "side"). This seems the most straight forward and then leaves only length of time (on/off) and load as the variables. I have been testing non-stop since I returned home, and the number of variables I can come up with is literally infinite when I want to start turning those devices on/off at different times with a computer.

I think it is about the flow of charges in the system (right?), so if you could provide us (me) some direction as to should we be looking at different turn on/off times, or just length of time and load?, that would be very helpful to me at least.

Thanks,

Leroy

P.S. I do not understand this comment from you, "... all about raising money for the shop........... B.S".

[ldissing]

Its good to see Mr Bedini looking in.
Leroy.
Does this indicate that we should use a few 3V torch bulbs in parralel to prevent them from blowing?
I still get the feeling that the lower the resistance of the load the lower the voltage drop over it. So it does not realy matter what voltage bulb we use to get charging. Only when using low rated voltage bulbs they will light up brighter?

I believe that is what he is saying, although I actually have two in series (2.47V and 1.2V) in series. If the bulbs are lighting up, then the potential (and charge flow) is there. I think you can use bigger bulbs, but then they would not light up and you could not "see" the light.

Putting them in parallel would decrease the "resistance" of the bulbs, which may be why Bits suggested it. It is good thinking and thanks to Bits and JB for the advise.

Leroy

[Inquorate]

Interesting Waveforms

The theory behind using the aether's inertia to move the ions in a battery for free.

Bedini coil Tesla Switch Hybrid - Page 2 - Heretical Builders

[RS_]

Hall Effect Current Sensor

@ Inquorate

"I've been wondering why people have never made an Oscilloscope for current"

Use a Hall Effect Current Sensor, like a AMP10 or AMP25

Ampsense current sensor

And use a OP-AMP circuit to offset its output, and scale it, so it reads +/- values correct on a Meter or Scope.
This OP-AMP circuit is for a Hall Effect Gauss Meter using a linear hall effect magnetic field sensor, but works on the Hall Effect Current Sensor in the same way.......
Modifications to the Gaussmeter
A slightly more expensive Gaussmeter
Build your own Gaussmeter

Looking at a Hall Effect Current sensor's output on a scope, can be very revealing.........
and compairing the current sensors output to the Voltage on a duel trace scope is a revealing exercise too......

[nvisser]

Bipolar switch

Mr Bedini posts this statement a while ago and I cannot remember of much response to it.
You know a light bulb just turned on. What if we could use the Bi- Polar switch in the Tesla Switch then we would know when it was off. One switch for charging a cap the other for the dump.
JB
This is probably the principle he uses on that monster of a solar charger.
Did you look at the last 3 videos that Downunder posted of Johns charger?

I think what John means by us using the bipolar switch on the TS could be as follows:
By switching the first 2 batteries in series. Then switch the 24V with the left side of the bipolar switch to a huge cap bank.
When that side switch completely off the right side of the bipolar switch drop that cap potential onto the then parallel right hand side (12v)
And of course vice versa.

[blackchisel97]

Mr Bedini posts this statement a while ago and I cannot remember of much response to it.
You know a light bulb just turned on. What if we could use the Bi- Polar switch in the Tesla Switch then we would know when it was off. One switch for charging a cap the other for the dump.
JB
This is probably the principle he uses on that monster of a solar charger.
Did you look at the last 3 videos that Downunder posted of Johns charger?

I think what John means by us using the bipolar switch on the TS could be as follows:
By switching the first 2 batteries in series. Then switch the 24V with the left side of the bipolar switch to a huge cap bank.
When that side switch completely off the right side of the bipolar switch drop that cap potential onto the then parallel right hand side (12v)
And of course vice versa.

You may be on the right track Vissie. I watched those vids (few times ) and also remember John saying that charger incorporates modified TS as well as bipolar switch.

btw. I made my DB9 today. They had connectors in RS and found a piece of CAT5. Gotta grab some food, coffee and..... TEST time


Vtech

[vallentin]

The master speaks again! Do you get it?

Leroy

Yes, Leroy.
How about this one: "The 5th opto is for self charging."

[blackchisel97]

Dts

Hello guys,

I finally got DTS up and running I'm trying to find a bulbs which won't "overload" and allow most efficient charging, remembering John's words, that we can only use what's left. I found plastic tubing with dozens of small bulbs inside. Kind of deck/patio ornament. It takes some patience to remove them but after cutting 4 feet I salvaged near 20 good ones. I'm switching 800ms per side, just like Bit's does in his setup. I have terrible choice of batteries - 7Ah SLABS. I'll try to get some small LABS for further testing. This is cool


Vtech

[Inquorate]

Hello guys,

I finally got DTS up and running I'm trying to find a bulbs which won't "overload" and allow most efficient charging, remembering John's words, that we can only use what's left. I found plastic tubing with dozens of small bulbs inside. Kind of deck/patio ornament. It takes some patience to remove them but after cutting 4 feet I salvaged near 20 good ones. I'm switching 800ms per side, just like Bit's does in his setup. I have terrible choice of batteries - 7Ah SLABS. I'll try to get some small LABS for further testing. This is cool


Vtech

Congratulations

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

Hello guys,

I finally got DTS up and running I'm trying to find a bulbs which won't "overload" and allow most efficient charging, remembering John's words, that we can only use what's left. I found plastic tubing with dozens of small bulbs inside. Kind of deck/patio ornament. It takes some patience to remove them but after cutting 4 feet I salvaged near 20 good ones. I'm switching 800ms per side, just like Bit's does in his setup. I have terrible choice of batteries - 7Ah SLABS. I'll try to get some small LABS for further testing. This is cool


Vtech

Vtech, great talking with you. With the D-TS you can just change the delay to match the type of load that you have.

Bit's

[blackchisel97]

Vtech, great talking with you. With the D-TS you can just change the delay to match the type of load that you have.

Bit's

It was very pleasant surprise
I'll have to change it. I tried couple different bulbs but voltage remains the same, no gain no loss.

Thanks

@Inquorate Thank you

Vtech

[Inquorate]

555 timers keep dying. So far, after two 1hr runs, the net resting voltage has increased 0.03v

Nothing to write home about. I've gotta figure out another way to pulse the coil, probably mechanically like a self oscillating relay. And I'll go back to the extra recovery coil.