My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[machinealive]

Here is a quick vid of the generator, it's still not apart, I got a couple pieces off, and you can see the comms, brushes, stator coil, frame # I think.
Vid of new generator - YouTube

[Ufopolitics]

Hello MachineAlive

Here is a quick vid of the generator, it's still not apart, I got a couple pieces off, and you can see the comms, brushes, stator coil, frame # I think.
Vid of new generator - YouTube

Hello Machine Alive,

That is a huge nice Generator!

Now the front smaller assembly, that have a small commutator, brushes,Stator and smaller Armature in front of bigger Generator Rotor, mounted on same shaft, That is the EXCITER.

The Exciter is a small DC Generator in charge to supply a constant DC Feed to Main Generator Stator Fields, in order to keep them energized/polarized during rotation. Currents are generated on its small outer Stator and connected directly to feed the outer Stator fields. It could also be, the other way around...meaning, generating field is the rotor, and sending it via small brushes...just have to follow wires and make a simple diagram.

But, it seems like a Brushed DC Generator, Main Power is generated at bigger Armature. Low Voltage High Amps (40V/300A) Output for Rod (stick) arc welding. And main Output is collected through the bigger brushes.

So Exciter outer fields (static, mounted outside small rotor) generate a current that is connected to outer Static Poles/Fields (it may have Four or Six Poles surrounding bigger armature, the more poles the lower RPM's required)

That is what I am making up, off the short video...

Thanks for uploading it!


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Iotayodi]

I see 2 of my vids have been blocked in Germany, they don't like the music

Wow! Im an old r&r and brought up with the Beatles. This was my first listen to wintersleep and Oblivion is a great song. It even fits in with what we are trying to achieve. Once again simplicity overrules complexity.
Nice work on the rotor. Great work by everyone on this.

[wantomake]

Update and Doubts

Hello Ufo and All,

I've spent last week rewiring the old treadmill motor with all the wires same length. Also coupled the 800 Watt Generator Head to it.

To my surprise it does have enough torque to spin the generator which is twice the size of the modified Ufo motor.

Problem is the rpm's are not high enough to create 120 ac at 60 Hz.

My question is: Would this generator produce even a little AC voltage with the rpm's I do get? It only produces 1.5 - 3 volts as it spins.

Any help is appreciated.
wantomake

[prochiro]

Rpm

Hello Ufo and All,

I've spent last week rewiring the old treadmill motor with all the wires same length. Also coupled the 800 Watt Generator Head to it.

To my surprise it does have enough torque to spin the generator which is twice the size of the modified Ufo motor.

Problem is the rpm's are not high enough to create 120 ac at 60 Hz.

My question is: Would this generator produce even a little AC voltage with the rpm's I do get? It only produces 1.5 - 3 volts as it spins.

Any help is appreciated.
wantomake

Hello there
How much RPM are you turning at:
Dana

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Wantomake

Hello Ufo and All,

I've spent last week rewiring the old treadmill motor with all the wires same length. Also coupled the 800 Watt Generator Head to it.

To my surprise it does have enough torque to spin the generator which is twice the size of the modified Ufo motor.

Problem is the rpm's are not high enough to create 120 ac at 60 Hz.

My question is: Would this generator produce even a little AC voltage with the rpm's I do get? It only produces 1.5 - 3 volts as it spins.

Any help is appreciated.
wantomake

Hello Wantomake,

Ok, I wrote before,that you ALL, should make sure before running any Asymm Motor to Generators...that Your Generator actually works.
And unfortunately, the only way to know this for sure, is by attaching it to a Gas Engine...and drive it at 3000-3600 RPM's

Generators, IF left seating without running for long times...they loose their "Residual Magnetism" at their Stators...Now, if this happens...no matter how fast you turn it...it will never produce but one or two volts...

That seems to be your problem there...IF your Generator will be working fine...as soon as motor spins it, even at a 1000 RPM's...it will start to get "stiffer"...very hard to rotate by your smaller motor...to the point motor will stall.

Now, all of the solutions/repairs to get them re-magnetized, that I have seen so far...are running it with gas engines...but never taking stator and doing it isolated...

Some say (while running it) you must "jump" the capacitor with a Voltage from 50-120 Volts...Others say that connecting a hand Drill and turning it opposite...?

I really do not know...if they work or not...so may be someone knows here...how to fix it without a gas engine connected...

However, Wantomake...do not expect to have a double sized Generator be run by the smaller Machine...unless is a specially build one for those purposes...
And remember...Four Stators, Four Brush Systems...will, but not 2 and 2...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[wantomake]

Hello there
How much RPM are you turning at:
Dana

Hey Dana,

I don't have a tachometer, I know I need one. It is rated for 5600 rpm. But when it turns it seems to get good speed.
Sorry this isn't much help I know.

But I thought it would produce some voltage.
wantomake

Thanks Ufo,
I thought of that too from your post that I read. But I wanted to try anyways.

[thaelin]

I can jump in here with a fix if your genn has lost its residual. Usually just hitting it with 12 to 24 volts dc with give it enough to get it going again. Then you must turn it close to the stated speed to get the full output.

thay

Hey Dana,

I don't have a tachometer, I know I need one. It is rated for 5600 rpm. But when it turns it seems to get good speed.
Sorry this isn't much help I know.

But I thought it would produce some voltage.
wantomake

Thanks Ufo,
I thought of that too from your post that I read. But I wanted to try anyways.

[Netica]

Hi Ufo,

A question about winding the stator.
Can the stator be wound with all 30 turns of bifiler at once on L1 then 30 turns on L2 through to L6, starting on one side and finishing on the other?

Thanks netica

[Gints]

Ufopolitics Asymmetric Motor 12P/4S/2x4B/2COMM

Hi Ufopolitics and All,

I would like to share with you my progress of project to build 12P/4S/2x4B/2COMM Ufopolitics motor without metal elements (except rotor shaft). Finally I got these plastic (POM) rotor elements. They are made from 20mm thick POM sheet using CNC. In the picture there is solid rod witch will be the material for stator parts.
As next will be shaft and stator fabrication to get these motor elements together.

Best regards.

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Netica

Hi Ufo,

A question about winding the stator.
Can the stator be wound with all 30 turns of bifiler at once on L1 then 30 turns on L2 through to L6, starting on one side and finishing on the other?

Thanks netica

Hello Netica,

How is your eye Netica?...Hope is good by now.

You are meaning to make Stator Coil based on ONE Layer only...right?

When I displayed this Stator originally, I did it with only Two Layers for simplicity and easier understanding of winding it.

However, the more layers it has, the more robust its Two Fields will perform/develop...we have to "travel" within the wires to get to understand this behavior ...the "returning" layer or layer two, is where our Hot flow will travel BACK to the point of Input/start...this return brings with it the Radiant Field...and so on.
Now, this process occurs so fast...there is no time to perceive it, but as a faster frequency of Radiant pulsing...

If you are going to be feeding linear the Stator, and not pulsing it...then it would be fine with just one layer.

Hope you understand my explanation.


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Nice Gints!!

Hi Ufopolitics and All,

I would like to share with you my progress of project to build 12P/4S/2x4B/2COMM Ufopolitics motor without metal elements (except rotor shaft). Finally I got these plastic (POM) rotor elements. They are made from 20mm thick POM sheet using CNC. In the picture there is solid rod witch will be the material for stator parts.
As next will be shaft and stator fabrication to get these motor elements together.

Best regards.

Hello Gints!

Wow, very good work!...laminated also?!...grreat work!!

That is gonna be an awesome machine!


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Gints]

Ufopolitics Asymmetric Motor 12P/4S/2x4B/2COMM

Hello Gints!

Wow, very good work!...laminated also?!...grreat work!!

That is gonna be an awesome machine!


Regards


Ufopolitics

The one rotor element is 20mm thick. The whole rotor will be 60mm, so there will be 3 pcs. of element you see in picture.

BR

[Netica]

Hello Netica,

How is your eye Netica?...Hope is good by now.

You are meaning to make Stator Coil based on ONE Layer only...right?

When I displayed this Stator originally, I did it with only Two Layers for simplicity and easier understanding of winding it.

However, the more layers it has, the more robust its Two Fields will perform/develop...we have to "travel" within the wires to get to understand this behavior ...the "returning" layer or layer two, is where our Hot flow will travel BACK to the point of Input/start...this return brings with it the Radiant Field...and so on.
Now, this process occurs so fast...there is no time to perceive it, but as a faster frequency of Radiant pulsing...

If you are going to be feeding linear the Stator, and not pulsing it...then it would be fine with just one layer.

Hope you understand my explanation.


Regards


Ufopolitics

Hi Ufo,

My eye is good thanks, thankfully the commutator section that flew off mainly hit the white part of my eye bruising it and making it very bloodshot but now it is back to normal.

I am going to pulse the stator, so the more layers the better.
It sounds as if 2 layers of 15 winds is ok, but say 6 layers of 5 winds would be better and 10 layers of 3 winds would be even better. Would you say I have it right?

When winding many layers is it ok that the cross over from L1 - L3 to L4 - L6 (between L3 and L4) and back again is on the top of the stator only because it makes it easier to follow the winding?

Thanks for the help
netica

[Ufopolitics]

Stator Winding

Hi Ufo,

My eye is good thanks, thankfully the commutator section that flew off mainly hit the white part of my eye bruising it and making it very bloodshot but now it is back to normal.

I am going to pulse the stator, so the more layers the better.
It sounds as if 2 layers of 15 winds is ok, but say 6 layers of 5 winds would be better and 10 layers of 3 winds would be even better. Would you say I have it right?

When winding many layers is it ok that the cross over from L1 - L3 to L4 - L6 (between L3 and L4) and back again is on the top of the stator only because it makes it easier to follow the winding?

Thanks for the help
netica

Hello Netica,

Well, I am glad your eye is back to normal!

Now, the lesser turns per level, therefore per layer, the faster the speed electron flow will occur, hence the ratio magnetic fields will shift will also be much faster, this traffic network/shifting should be in complete "balanced harmony" with every Pair/Coils at Armature you will be pulsing within same Parallel Input pulsing.

You have to "see" your Stators windings in accordance with your rotor/armature windings per "momentum" of the input pulse. As it also depends upon how many Pairs per momentum you will be energizing at armature, two...or four?

Having this in mind, will render balanced fields at every Magnetic Interaction.

The Cross Over should remain around center of Stator embodiment, where you could alternate fins in order NOT to congest/populate too much with windings just one section of Stator.


Regards


Ufopolitics