Reactive Generator Research for everyone to share

[nilrehob]

Three more videos on the subject:

Watt-Meter Resistive Load: Watt-Meter Resistive Load - YouTube
Watt-Meter Reactive Load: Watt-Meter Reactive Load - YouTube
Luc Reactive MOT Straight to Battery: Luc Reactive MOT Straight to Battery - YouTube

/Hob

[nilrehob]

Two more videos:

Watt-Meter Capacitative Load: Watt-Meter Capacitative Load - YouTube
Luc Reactive Capacitor to Battery, no MOT: Luc Reactive Capacitor to Battery, no MOT - YouTube

I have found the manual for the watt-meter :-D
It says that it only takes measurements in quadrants 1 and 4 (consumed energy).
So if its in 2 or 3 (or very close to them I guess), it writes "err" in the "current page" and all power-related info says zero.

And some renaming of the previous three:

Watt-Meter Resistive Load: Watt-Meter Resistive Load - YouTube
Watt-Meter Inductive Load: Watt-Meter Inductive Load - YouTube
Luc Reactive MOT to Battery, no Capacitor: Luc Reactive MOT to Battery, no Capacitor - YouTube

/Hob

[thedude]

Heya Nilrehob!

Thanks for posting your tests. Seems like this thread is pretty quiet compared to OU on this topic. I'm curious if the energeticforum is decidedly out on this issue?

I'm glad your doing some closer analysis than i have. I have been meaning to take another look at what your doing as i have been admittedly self absorbed in my own video making, testing and reading. I saw you were running a secondary load with anomalous readings on the watt meter while your wm22-din was showing amps being translated, as did my open ended fluke AC amp meter. What are your thoughts? I'm in the process of making some instrumentation choices and looking at hall effect current sensors to get away from CTs and VTs. But a lot of the phase relationship issues are new to me.

Your video documents scope readings in each test well. Watt meter is doing tricky stuff to eh? Seems to calculate factor with more detail but dumps the 2nd and 3rd factors? Did some one make it that way with a purpose? lol

I still need a decent 2nd probe for my B channel and i can start adding and inverting and doing better analysis. Sincerely thanks for sharing!

[nilrehob]

Thanks for posting your tests. Seems like this thread is pretty quiet compared to OU on this topic. I'm curious if the energeticforum is decidedly out on this issue?

I'm glad your doing some closer analysis than i have. I have been meaning to take another look at what your doing as i have been admittedly self absorbed in my own video making, testing and reading. I saw you were running a secondary load with anomalous readings on the watt meter while your wm22-din was showing amps being translated, as did my open ended fluke AC amp meter. What are your thoughts? I'm in the process of making some instrumentation choices and looking at hall effect current sensors to get away from CTs and VTs. But a lot of the phase relationship issues are new to me.

Your video documents scope readings in each test well. Watt meter is doing tricky stuff to eh? Seems to calculate factor with more detail but dumps the 2nd and 3rd factors? Did some one make it that way with a purpose? lol

I still need a decent 2nd probe for my B channel and i can start adding and inverting and doing better analysis. Sincerely thanks for sharing!

Thanks, and thank You for sharing as well :-)
You found the manual as well I can see, the relevant info is on page 21.

I'm still quite puzzled and don't know whats going on, I have to do further testing which I assume will make me even more puzzled :-p

/Hob

[thedude]

Three hall effect current sensor meters from cytron technologies

Hi again. I thought this was a particularly good price for three of these rigs and one PIC programmer for hall effect current sensor readings. I purchased from Cytron Technologies Their website handled paypal, could calculate international shipping and account and invoice tracking is working on their website. Got em on the way.
Video of them in action.

3- SK28A 28 Pins PIC Start-up Kit 37.50
3- IC-PIC-18F2550 PIC18F2550 28.13
1- UIC00B USB ICSP PIC Programmer V2010 18.13
3- UIC-A ICSP Universal Socket 10.31
3- BB-ACS756 50A Current Sensor 46.88
3- DS-LCD-082A LCD (8x2) 22.50
Total Amount : 163.44
You save this with internet payment : 18.16
Payable Amount : 145.28
Shipping Fees : 26.09
Grand Total : 171.38

[barbosi]

And some renaming of the previous three:

Watt-Meter Resistive Load: Watt-Meter Resistive Load - YouTube
Watt-Meter Inductive Load: Watt-Meter Inductive Load - YouTube

From the inductive load test at minute 2:42 there is something wrong with the current waveform. The phase it looks ok 90 deg, but I don't know why you have that current "strangled" when about to cross zero.
Unfortunately in the other test clip (resistive load) you don't show the current waveform. If current was not pure sine then... Just a wild guess: maybe the problem is the meter (it's transfer function is not liniar) and is limiting the current at low values. Try to scope same experiments without the meter involved in the circuit and see if currents turn to pure sine waves.

And this is how meters cannot be trusted

Regards.

[gotoluc]

Hi everyone,

I made this video as per Stefan (of OU forum) request to see in fine details (scope) the power to the generator (alternator) prime mover when the circuit is connector or disconnected.

Link to video: Reactive Generator test 2 - YouTube

Luc

[nilrehob]

From the inductive load test at minute 2:42 there is something wrong with the current waveform. The phase it looks ok 90 deg, but I don't know why you have that current "strangled" when about to cross zero.
Unfortunately in the other test clip (resistive load) you don't show the current waveform. If current was not pure sine then... Just a wild guess: maybe the problem is the meter (it's transfer function is not liniar) and is limiting the current at low values. Try to scope same experiments without the meter involved in the circuit and see if currents turn to pure sine waves.

And this is how meters cannot be trusted

Regards.

Thanks for the tip, I'll look into it today.

/Hob

[barbosi]

Also, I wonder if your "power meter" is not also a Power Conditioner. If so, it might be possible that while you are using just one phase, the box would try to compensate for the lack of the others.
Just a wild guess and I might be wrong, but testing (for the moment) without it and using the scope as trustworthy equipment for visualising the tension and the current will tell the truth about your "meter".

Regards.

[nilrehob]

Also, I wonder if your "power meter" is not also a Power Conditioner. If so, it might be possible that while you are using just one phase, the box would try to compensate for the lack of the others.
Just a wild guess and I might be wrong, but testing (for the moment) without it and using the scope as trustworthy equipment for visualising the tension and the current will tell the truth about your "meter".

Regards.

The power-meter is not a power-conditioner, its just a meter.

/Hob

[gotoluc]

Hi everyone,

the circuit is about to take a huge change!

Strange how we see something and we don't follow through. About two weeks ago I had a MOT that was cut open, just the E core with both the coils in it and I was able to get 95% of the effect and with no short to the Secondary. I put it aside for testing later and didn't get back to it till last night after exchanges with Hob.

Well it looks like a MOT is NOT needed LOL. Now I know why some experimenters had different results!

Consider your power source (Alternator) as the Inductor, so the main component is the Capacitor. Adding another Inductor may have benefits but lets leave it out for now.

So the test is so simple there's no reasons anyone cannot to do it. So no more loads of tests and questions needed to be answered by me, you will answers all your questions by seeing the results yourself.

New Test:

connect a Capacitor in series of around 35uf or lower and choose another component of your choice, Resistor or FWBR and connect it also in series with your capacitor, that's it.

If you chose a FWBR you connect the AC legs in series and you need a battery on the DC side but be careful if you feed 220v though and have no load attached to your battery as in no time it will got over the ideal charge voltage limit of 14.5 Volts. So have enough load attached to your battery to keep the voltage around 12.8 volts.

An Induction Motor of very low coil resistance could also be used as a component choice but you will need to add a flip flop relay to start it off a non reactive power source as I did in my demo video.

Adding an Inductor in the Network could have benefits but can be done in time once you better understand the effect.
I also think the Inductor would be of super low resistance and of low Inductance value.

I believe the basic effect is:

Electricity has two components, Voltage and Current, if you separate them (90 degrees phase shift) and just allow them to flow through a circuit (series network) each component of electricity will be able to do their work WITHOUT crashing in each other (short circuit)

I think for the past 100 years we've been making circuits that just basically short circuits electricity and as a result we only have losses.

So maybe this circuit can be summed up by "Don't Kill The Dipole"

Here are 3 newer videos but still using a MOT

Test 3: Reactive Generator test 3 - YouTube

Test 4: Reactive Generator test 4 - YouTube

Test 5: Reactive Generator test 5 - YouTube

Looking forward in your test results!... good luck to all and please share your results to help the development.

Luc

[erfinder]

Hi everyone,

the circuit is about to take a huge change!

Strange how we see something and we don't follow through. About two weeks ago I had a MOT that was cut open, just the E core with both the coils in it and I was able to get 95% of the effect and with no short to the Secondary. I put it aside for testing later and didn't get back to it till last night after exchanges with Hob.

Well it looks like a MOT is NOT needed LOL. Now I know why some experimenters had different results!

Consider your power source (Alternator) as the Inductor, so the main component is the Capacitor. Adding another Inductor may have benefits but lets leave it out for now.

So the test is so simple there's no reasons anyone cannot to do it. So no more loads of tests and questions needed to be answered by me, you will answers all your questions by seeing the results yourself.

New Test:

connect a Capacitor in series of around 35uf or lower and choose another component of your choice, Resistor or FWBR and connect it also in series with your capacitor, that's it.

If you chose a FWBR you connect the AC legs in series and you need a battery on the DC side but be careful if you feed 220v though and have no load attached to your battery as in no time it will got over the ideal charge voltage limit of 14.5 Volts. So have enough load attached to your battery to keep the voltage around 12.8 volts.

An Induction Motor of very low coil resistance could also be used as a component choice but you will need to add a flip flop relay to start it off a non reactive power source as I did in my demo video.

Adding an Inductor in the Network could have benefits but can be done in time once you better understand the effect.
I also think the Inductor would be of super low resistance and of low Inductance value.

I believe the basic effect is:

Electricity has two components, Voltage and Current, if you separate them (90 degrees phase shift) and just allow them to flow through a circuit (series network) each component of electricity will be able to do their work WITHOUT crashing in each other (short circuit)

I think for the past 100 years we've been making circuits that just basically short circuits electricity and as a result we only have losses.

So maybe this circuit can be summed up by "Don't Kill The Dipole"

Here are 3 newer videos but still using a MOT

Test 3: Reactive Generator test 3 - YouTube

Test 4: Reactive Generator test 4 - YouTube

Test 5: Reactive Generator test 5 - YouTube

Looking forward in your test results!... good luck to all and please share your results to help the development.

Luc

Luc,

I am really enjoying these latest videos Luc. About a year ago I retrofitted an induction motor, completely changed it so that it could function in a manner similar to a pulse motor. Its a three phase device, one phase is operated as the prime mover, and the remaining two phases are connected in series and used as an on board HV generator, I have seen voltages as high as 1kv coming off this generator, short circuits result in the production of a white hot flame which resembles those from high voltage fly back transformers.

After watching your latest videos and reviewing the information as a whole, I am contemplating routing the output of this on board generator in a tuned circuit like the one you show, and use the output of that tuned circuit to run a second induction motor as you demonstrate. Presently any load placed on the output of the generator results in drag as can be seen in the video. The thought that your disclosure could serve as a possible solution is refreshing!

What makes this whole thing interesting to me is that my prime mover can be battery powered, and the generator output voltage ranges between 0-1000v depending on rpm, if i understood your presentation correctly, your disclosure and my machine are like a match made in heaven.

Attached is a link to a no frills unedited video of the device. The power it generates is real, the lamp placed across the generator is rated at 100 watts. I am excited about the possibility that your disclosure could make possible.
I have to wait till after the holidays to give this a go, as I don't have a second induction motor, till then I will continue to contemplate the merger, and perform the simple recommended tests.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...Video%2038.wmv

Happy holidays, keep inspiring me!

Regards

[gotoluc]

Hi erfinder,

glad to see you here! ... it's been something like 5 years since we communicated.

Your motor is quite special ... thanks for making a video demo of it.

Is the output flyback or do you have an Alternator AC output?

Very man

Thanks for your post

Luc

[erfinder]

Hi erfinder,

glad to see you here! ... it's been something like 5 years since we communicated.

Your motor is quite special ... thanks for making a video demo of it.

Is the output flyback or do you have an Alternator AC output?

Very man

Thanks for your post

Luc

Hi Luc,

The output of the device is AC. The device was inspired by this patent.

Patent US3913004 - Method and apparatus for increasing electrical power - Google Patente

A few years back when everyone was all excited about that lockridge device I was looking into that patent and retrofitting the motor you saw in the video. Like the patent, the device was designed to operate simultaneously as a motor-transformer-generator. The output of the generator is a combination of transformer and generator action. Here the motor phase is the primary of the transformer, and the remaining two phases in series serve as the secondary of the motor-transformer-generator.

I limit the output of the generator by placing a load on the recovery of the circuit driving the motor. As we all know from our experiences gained with pulse motor circuits there are two methods for harvesting the collapsing field, one being direct recovery from the diode at the switch, and the second via a second coil through transformer action. If you do both at the same time you end up with a 60/40 split with 60% going through the diode at the switch, and the 40% via transformer action. Owing to my layout I am doing both. This limits the maximum output of the generator, but also gives me a degree of security for the switch. If I disconnect the recovery at the switch and allow the full collapsing field to transfer via transformer action, the output voltage of the generator exceeds 1kv easily, however this is extremely hard on the switch so its not done often. As I pointed out in the last post, I don't have to remove the recovery at the switch to generate 1kv in the generator, simply driving this machine fast enough gets me there.

Anyway, I'm getting the components together to begin my tests. I found 2x 16uf AC caps in my collection, and I dusted off one of my microwave oven transformers. Time to get the show on the road.

Regards

[gotoluc]

Okay, it all sounds very good

The only thing is you need to read my newer post above, as it is now clear that the MOT is NOT needed

You only need a series cap and a series load. In your case I would recommend the series FWBR to charge your battery. Just make sure your Motor coils are isolated from the AC Gen coils.

Start low with your series cap since you have HV output. Maybe start with 1uf and slowly add to find the ideal value.

Wishing you all the best and let us know how it works out.

Luc