Basic Free Energy Device

[Turion]

jettis,

Shhhhhhhh, you're giving away all our secrets! If you don't stop it, someone might actually build the thing and start messing with it like I TOLD them to. Then where will we be!!

Just be careful of the loads you put on the motors. Running generators with air core coils that will speed up under load is the way to go. Barely any resistance for the motor to overcome so the batteries do not draw down at all. Things are a little different when you put the motors under load, but go slow and you will find the limits.

I have been slowly purchasing 12 volt deep cycle (150 amp hour) batterie over the last few months and am up to 10 now, so that I could run some long term tests and collect the data. We have SO MANY skeptics who aren't willing to try this until they see the data, and my plan was to have all new batteries to run a test for a few weeks with a large system using higher voltage to show what this circuit is capable of.

Think about this. If you are running pulse motors with a 50% duty cycle, so that 50% of the time they are acting as generators, while your flywheel keeps your attached air core generator turning at speed, once you have that flywheel up to speed, or even WITOUT one you might be able to put out a little power with this setup at an EXTREMELY low cost.

I had to edit this because there is one thing I forgot to mention. If you have a motor or generator you can use as a load, try it with EACH of the motors. I think you will see different results as far as effects on the system when you put the load on the different motors.

By the way, the DC to DC converter (or boost module) jettis mentions here is (I'm pretty sure) significantly MORE EFFICIENT than the one Matt and I listed when we introduced this idea. It is also six times more expensive. Worth it if you BELIEVE and want to see how far this will take you. Or you can spend $3.00 per boost module to prove to yourself that this is for real.
We have also looked at boost modules that aren't that much more than the one jettis mentioned here, but which are more efficient yet.

[Matthew Jones]

Hi all,

Here is an image of of what I tried tonight, using these DC to DC Step up converters.

DC 400W 6 40V 12V 24V to 8V 80V 10A Boost Converter Step Up Module Power Supply | eBay

When looking at the image below... I see no reason why you cannot cascade it out further. It appears that all this costs you is the price to run the first motor, but really you get most of it back at the end (which is the six volt battery). The first and second motor have the available shaft energy, which is whatever the voltage is across them, that voltage is completely adjustable and of course the available shaft energy is free mechanical energy.

I would couple all the motors together via a coupling and even add more stages with motors if you need more shaft energy... one can easily see that self powering or massive excess is quite possible, barring any unforeseen issues. The way I see it you could easily use the excess shaft energy to power conventional generator.

By the way running the second motor has no negative impact upon the primary battery whatsoever and it charges the 6 volt battery like it should. All I can say is wow....

I have tried other things like caps and 12 volts to 12 volts with the schematic Turion and or Matt posted.


Here is the schematic I have described above...

Dave Wing

The best runs come when you have 3 banks. 1 discharging, 1 charging, and 1 resting.
You can do this with 4 batteries. Just rotate everything in a circle. Try not to discharge the primaries to low and make sure the charge battery is charged to 14.5 - 15v before it rotates. You can actually gain over time.
You do on the other hand have to watch temperature. Best runs will come around 72 degrees.

[jettis]

jettis,

Shhhhhhhh, you're giving away all our secrets! If you don't stop it, someone might actually build the thing and start messing with it like I TOLD them to. Then where will we be!!

Just be careful of the loads you put on the motors. Running generators with air core coils that will speed up under load is the way to go. Barely any resistance for the motor to overcome so the batteries do not draw down at all. Things are a little different when you put the motors under load, but go slow and you will find the limits.

I have been slowly purchasing 12 volt deep cycle (150 amp hour) batterie over the last few months and am up to 10 now, so that I could run some long term tests and collect the data. We have SO MANY skeptics who aren't willing to try this until they see the data, and my plan was to have all new batteries to run a test for a few weeks with a large system using higher voltage to show what this circuit is capable of.

Think about this. If you are running pulse motors with a 50% duty cycle, so that 50% of the time they are acting as generators, while your flywheel keeps your attached air core generator turning at speed, once you have that flywheel up to speed, or even WITOUT one you might be able to put out a little power with this setup at an EXTREMELY low cost.
Erfinder is the man to talk to in this regard, from what I have seen from him via discussion and the demonstrations he has the theory pretty much figured out.

I had to edit this because there is one thing I forgot to mention. If you have a motor or generator you can use as a load, try it with EACH of the motors. I think you will see different results as far as effects on the system when you put the load on the different motors.
I agree. In my opinion one should couple the motors together to share the load then you can tune the system using the individual boost controllers to maintain a even current flow like a common river... You want the water (current) to flow continuously down stream (from a high potential to the lower potential) with your paddle wheel (DC motor) in the flow and then finally put all that flow back (from the mouth of the river back to where the river first started) to the front end battery, thus reguaging or partially reguaging the system (putting that GRAVITY fed system back to the source). One could even use another boost controller and or motor system with an attached generator of your own choosing if you needed to make up for any reguaging short falls. The mid section batteries (batteries in between primary and end or last battery) should be kept in a fully charged state at or near (15.0 Volts) using your boost controller to tune to attain this and if using lead acid wet cells.

By the way, the DC to DC converter (or boost module) jettis mentions here is (I'm pretty sure) significantly MORE EFFICIENT than the one Matt and I listed when we introduced this idea. It is also six times more expensive. Worth it if you BELIEVE and want to see how far this will take you. Or you can spend $3.00 per boost module to prove to yourself that this is for real.
We have also looked at boost modules that arrant that moocher than the one jettis mentioned here, but which are more efficient yet.
What are you saying in this last sentence?

Personally i would like to get my hands on a higher more efficient boost module that can handle more amps yet... Any Ideas? I would like it some where around 100amps or so, but it has to be on the cheap...

Dave Wing

------------------------------

[shylo]

batteries

Would it not be better to replace all the batteries with cap banks?
No need for anything to rest , no temp concerns, a cap charges and discharge it, the only problem is how many cycles before the cap is toast.
You can use the boost converters on cap banks but it drains them almost instantly.
I do like that cascading idea , I'll keep it in mind.
Thanks Jettis
artv

[Matthew Jones]

Would it not be better to replace all the batteries with cap banks?
No need for anything to rest , no temp concerns, a cap charges and discharge it, the only problem is how many cycles before the cap is toast.
You can use the boost converters on cap banks but it drains them almost instantly.
I do like that cascading idea , I'll keep it in mind.
Thanks Jettis
artv

Confirm this because because it is basic electronics 101. When you serialize 2 capacitors you loose 50% of your energy. If you are strictly using capacitors you are throwing away power. Make sure to confirm this by understanding BASIC electronics.

Confirm this as well...Capacitors do not charge and discharge and the same ratio unless they are high quality capacitors. Which means LOW ESR rating and High frequency resonant behavior with very small capacitance.

Last capacitors are not the answer for every project posted. Please avoid confusion and specifically state your theory as per the SUBJECT of each thread. Along with theory please post relevant examples of your relatively simple answer to everything. Only through example is a case made for change or possible experimentation. Using the same suggestion multiple time over multiple thread may expose ignorance and result in humiliation.

Thanks you for your suggestion, no further suggestions without example are needed. Thank you.

[jettis]

Ok figured it out... Aren't that much cheaper...

[Matthew Jones]

Personally i would like to get my hands on a higher more efficient boost module that can handle more amps yet... Any Ideas? I would like it some where around 100amps or so, but it has to be on the cheap...

Parallel multiple modules.

[gotoluc]

Ok figured it out... Aren't that much cheaper...

Hi Dave,

it's been a while!

this boost converter is 1200W and claims to be up to 95% efficient (probably at half power) for $26.79 with delivery

1200W 20A CC CV Boost Converter DC 8V 60V to 12V 80V Step Up Power Supply Module | eBay

Thanks for sharing

Luc

[Turion]

Jettis,
What I meant to say was:
"We have also looked at boost modules that aren't that much more (cost wise) than the one jettis mentioned here, but which are more efficient yet."

They have boost modules that are 97 to 98% efficient. And when you consider what you could do with several motors turning air core generators or even iron core generators that have NO magnetic lock and speed up under load, I think you can see the potential of this. It has been MONTHS since we first showed this and only a handful of people have even bothered to take a look at it.

Now I know that's because we haven't taken the time to produce videos showing "power in and power out" or a self looping system, but I have better things to do than argue with people who say this can't be done.

There are now LOTS of folks who have played around with the 3BGS enough to know you can get EXTENDED RUNS out of your batteries. Now they can see that you can also run 2 or 3 or MORE motors (I have never run more than 3 myself, so I can't say you could run more with complete certainty) for the same "cost".

Yes, one of your primary batteries is going to lose voltage, but you KNOW your third battery is going to charge and you KNOW you can get run times longer than what you should, plus you get the mechanical energy for FREE. One of these days somebody is going to loop the thing and show everybody here that I haven't lost my mind. I'm a patient guy. I still have stuff I haven't shared, and Matt knows 10 times what I know about how to get more out of this setup.

If you want to slow down the discharge of the primary battery that is going slowly down, try this. Add another battery in parallel. Now you would ASSUME that it would take twice as long for that battery to run down, since there and now TWO in parallel. I think you will be surprised. I HOPE you will be. I'd love for somebody to try this and verify my results. I honestly believe that in certain situations its like comparing 2+2+2 to 2x2x2. Both equations have three of the same number, but the results are far different. Of course, this could have been an anomaly, so it would be great if someone else saw the same thing I have seen. This 3 battery setup can be so damn flakey at times that I don't share things I see happen because I can't consistently repeat them, and few of the people who have replicated have spent the time messing with it to run across the same thing. But I have seen THIS several times, and the last few times I tried it with the boost circuit, it APPEARED to make a significant difference, so I am passing it along.

I keep wondering what would happen if we had worked the boost circuit into the circuit Randy came up with that incorporated a transducer. Anybody remember that? It's on my list to try.

Dave

[jettis]

Howdy all,

Matt, Luc and Dave thanks for the advice, that may be the route I will go if I cannot find a single unit to do what I would like.

Now Dave... Are you saying... If you have three batteries as the primary source you want me to try adding another three in parallel doubling the amp hours of the primary only and keeping the voltage at 36 volts. If that is so I suspect that it may be beneficial to do this with the whole system... Just a hunch.

I will try this and let you know. I was blessed with 14 identical 44amp hour 12 volt batteries yesterday so I can try a few different things if need be. Just let me know the specifics of anything else you want me to try... A good one may be to see how far the motors can be taken out... I could use the 14 batteries I just spoke of along with a 6 volt 220 amp hour as the last battery this would bring us to five motors, four between the positives and the last one running conventionally across the six volt. I only have 4 boost modules as well.

Dave Wing

[Turion]

Setup

What I did was look at the two primary batteries separately. ONE of them is usually dropping in voltage but not the other. Put another or possibly 2 more in parallel with the one that is dropping.

I've got 6 or 8 of the boost modules and at least that many razor scooter motors around here, so if I get some time in the next few days I will see if I can't set this up with more boost modules.

[bobfrench@fastmail.fm]

Cascading System

jettis,

Very cool idea. Why do you have a 6v battery at the end? With boost modules can't you get enough voltage to run the motor with a 12v battery on the other side?

Would the attached setup work? Would the attached setup work if the boost modules were taken out?

Bob

[bobfrench@fastmail.fm]

Cold Electricity (off subject, but eventually useful)

Hey guys,

I built this Saturday and it is one of the very few things that actually worked the first time...no head scratching, cussing, or tears.

It is very frugal (40mA as shown), simple, and puts out 9.2kv (as shown). Adjusting resistors R2 and R3 (which must be the same) and the size of the caps (which must be the same) will change frequency and output. I used the particular MOSFET, transistors, and coil because that is what I had on hand...just got lucky I guess.

In the pic you see a green light which is the LED that indicates the frequency. I changed resistors and caps until I got it to be steady on. The other light is a NE-2 neon. It is nicely bright orange. Any brighter and it might turn white/purple. As I was playing with the resistors, the neon did go white at times momentarily. I have not had time to play with this yet.

This unit gives off Cold Electricity and if you put an LED where the neon is, the LED (made to work on 3v) has 9kv going through it and remains cold. You can put the light and bare wires in water and stick your fingers in there too! Great to show unbelievers. If you stick your finger in the core of the coil it tingles pretty good. I have a string of 100 LED Christmas lights that about 1/2 of them light up because I need to replace a fuse or something. I'll post pics.

This Astable Multivibrator circuit is a low cost, frugal switch for running stuff. I am using one side to run this unit and the LED is on the other side. The two sides alternate. This might be of use when powering a motor and back popping the Primary out of phase.

Bob

[bobfrench@fastmail.fm]

Cold Electricity (off subject, but eventually useful)2

Here's a couple more pics. The light in the water is a NE-2 neon which takes at least 90v to light. You can see the bare clip leads in the water with my fingers. The Xmas lights are at full brightness, but only about 1/2 are lit because of faulty fuse or something.

The pic with the 3 meters is where I used the 10kv meter from my other setup to measure the voltage. To the left is the input meter for that other setup. It reads 0 because I'm not using that setup, only the meter which reads 9.2kv. The meter on the right shows the 40mA that it running everything. On the right is the neon that is lit.

Bob

[jettis]

jettis,

Very cool idea. Why do you have a 6v battery at the end? With boost modules can't you get enough voltage to run the motor with a 12v battery on the other side?

Would the attached setup work? Would the attached setup work if the boost modules were taken out?

Bob

Hi Bob,

I mentioned the cascading idea on this forum, some time ago. I think it was a five motor cascading system if memory recalls, using no boost controllers in the system. Matt commented on this and said this was not the only way to do it... I thought about his comment ever since but never thought it was the use of boost controllers.

Regarding the six volt battery on the back end, I just put it there because I wanted a large capacity battery in the back end as I did not have a high capacity 12 volt battery to put there. The beauty of this system is that it will charge any battery as long as you have a differential across the battery groupings with a motor or any load such as a light bulb, resistors etc. in between. You do not even need a resistive and or inductive load between the batteries, I have tried a direct short circuit, not on purpose of course... I do not recommend doing this as the flow in current is tremendous and the batteries will be instantly be boiling.

The only way to know is to try your circuit out... That is the only way one will know for sure. Interesting circuit though.

Dave Wing