One magnet no bearing Bedini motor

[Jbignes5]

If...

Only if air was shaped like a tube. That you have made is a climber nothing else. Just like a person who can scale a 3 foot space inbetween two walls. You can tell the same principle is going on here because your tube did a twist as it was running. Lidmotors would have flown off the table if it had any real propulsion effect. Of course lid isn't driving with much voltage or current either so there is a possibility but a slim one at that. Good job guys.
But I do like the innovative way you guys are experimenting. Using two magnets would give the field an oblong shape facilitating a paddle type of rotor and a stronger force to generate from.

[Xenomorph]

@Vortex:

It is just that the
degaussing coil has more surface area (more wire) than that smaller coil
or is it the diameter of the degaussing coil or is it both?

The theory about it , i have illustrated earlier in this thread : http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...html#post53749

@Jonny: Very nice, el-tigre had a good idea there!
Can you actually use your tachiometer on the satellites or are they too small?
Would be cool to have some numbers if there is a speed benefit in the tube satellites levitating.

[Xenomorph]

Levitation test

Jonny inspired me to try this too, even though i couldnt yet get hold of a pole magnet/cylinder. So the chaining of 3 spherical magnets could be used to improvise, but i believe that less magnetic poles in there is better, so a single magnet will work nicer.

VIDEO: YouTube - Levitation Satellite

Friction is still an issue here, in fact it is the main reason this works only in close proximity to the main rotor, because the opposing magnetic poles in there try to find each other thereby creating even a pressure onto the tube walls.
Jonny has his setup way better and is able to keep the right distance, so the main rotor does not stop.
If one finds a way to erect the magnets, so they would not touch the tube walls at all, then friction is minimized and the whole thing starts to justify the cause.
Just looking at the video again, i would say that you dont even need the bottom magnet, because once the thing is rotating, the main rotor lifts the magnet up in the tube, way out of reach of the bottom magnet.
Maybe more far away, with the satellite stable and straight, it is needed then.

[retrod]

If you get a chance check out Retrod1's work posted on Youtube. He is generating over 70 volts AC and lighting up 30 LEDs off a 9v battery. The pickup coil is a degaussing coil. Very very impressive. Also check out the extremely simple bifilar that he is using on the Bedini circuit. He is working off a kitchen table just like me.
YouTube - retrod1's Channel
Cheers,
Lidmotor

Hey guy's I found you all & I see I had registered sometime ago . I moved all this 'stuff' into an area I can play lab in . With my set-up the balance between the 'load' and free running is somewhat critical. When the load is 'just right', the magnet will actually seek out the sweet spot and stay there. I have tried several additional rotors (satellites) and they act more like a disturbance. I get different beat frequencies in the load (LED's pulseing) and vibration of the main rotor, not harmony. Anyway, I posted a new vid today because I had reached a goal of 100 volts with a load.
YouTube - Bedini / Davro one Magnet Motor...Load Test 42 LED's 100+ Volts !

Keep up the great work & experiments.

Dave (Retro-Dave)

[Xenomorph]

@retrod:

Welcome!
100 Volt is impressive indeed.
Too bad the exact positioning of the degaussing coil would not allow to add more of those, but maybe if you stick two coils close together you would kind of double the windings and hopefully the output. I guess though its hard to find another one of these coils nowadays hehe.

[Jbignes5]

Nice to hear from you.

@retrod
It is good to see you join our little foray into this experiment. Definetly having so many with working experiments make covering all the bases easier. You have a very impressive setup there to say the least.

I think I'll be taking a break from the forums for a bit because of an incident in a post has left me rather bleak minded about how others treat you when you try to think about others safety. This has nothing to do with your experiment but it has drained me of my tolerance of poke and hope experimenting especially in the area of High voltages. That being said I wish everyone great luck and shall be back when I can recharge my mindset to better help this community we have. It will also give me the time to get my area setup for experimentation and clear my head for better thought process. Meditation helps me clear the channels of thought in my mind and recharge my soul as well.
Till later
jbignes5

[synchro]

Saturn power ratio.

@Lidmotor. Retrod1 states that his larger magnet slows down. I would bet my shirt your large Neo sphere does too when you stick the little side ones on. I would guess the slower rate of spin reduces input power. I asked that you measure the difference to confirm this. Also, it is obvious the output rises in your satellite generator, but I ask once again that you measure the ratio of output rise to the drop in input with the increase in magnet size and field strength. One can see how we can graph the inverse proportional drop in input and the direct proportional rise in output, with an increase in magnet strength and dimension to arrive at a standard ratio, and project where any such system might achieve unity. Secondly, what do you think of "Johnnblades" you tube video www.youtube @one magnet no bearing self starting bedini with control turning left or right and speed control JB@. the speed up and slow down effect of a second stationary hand adjusted doughnut magnet on his one magnet rotor?

[jonnydavro]

Hi.Here is a vid i did of a test with 12 stable satellites in ice cube trays.They all self started on the initial spin of the main rotor.

YouTube - One magnet no bearing Bedini.Twelve stable satellite test

@ Xenomorph.Hi.I have done a few tests including induction and at 3" from the main rotor i can induce 9.5v and at 5"-7.6v.This is with the sphere's at the top of the tube with my pickup coil at a 45 degree angle on top of the tube.If i move the testube further than 5",the sphere's stop spinning.I also tried without the magnet and it seems to levitate even better than with the repulsing magnet like you suspected.
To me it looks like the sphere's are rotating faster than the main rotor,i don't think i can get my tacho on it but if you observe it when you start it it looks like it is faster to me.What do you think?
There is still a lot of friction here as the sphere's are rubbing up against the side of the tube so thats something to think about.
I also think that this type of satellite may put a heavier load on the main rotor.
Also i would suggest anyone trying this to use plastic testube's as i had 15 glass ones which i got for my small sphere inside the coil motor and i have broke 7 messing with this today.Regards jonny
@Retrod.I am glad you made it.You have made great progress in such a small time and i have greatly enjoyed your video's and watching how you have improoved your innovative motor.
@Jbignes.Thanks for your great input.I hope you won't be gone for long,only the time it takes to knock one of these up i hope.Many thanks jonny

[synchro]

Retrod1 C.O.P. 18?

Some quick math on Retrod1's latest video: 42 leds drawing 3 to 5 ma, five ma at full brightness times 100 volts, equals 21 watts. The combined illumination of the 42 leds should be equal to the illumination of a 20 watt bulb. Not a far off comparison judging visually. Now he says he's runnining it at 75 ma and a little under 12 volts. That's .9 watts. That gives Retrod a whopping C.O.P. of over eighteen if I have all my data and math correct
I'm a little embaressed at this in retrospect!

@Jonnydavro. Looks like starship engine room!

[MileHigh]

Synchro: To correct your power calculations. 75 ma at 12 volts is 0.9 watts. 5 ma at 100 volts is 0.5 watts.

However, it's not nearly as simple as that for the LED power calculation. LEDs are non-linear resistors so simple formulas don't apply. Also, only one-half of the power output from the coil is being used, that's when the LEDs are conducting. The 100 volt measurement is the AC voltage during the non-conducting part of the cycle, when there is no load on the coil and no power is being dissipated. Therefore the 100 volt AC measurement is not useful for determining how much power is going through the LEDs. I'm not trying to spoil the party, just giving you the real deal.

[retrod]

Some quick math on Retrod1's latest video: 42 leds drawing 3 to 5 ma, five at full brightness times 100 volts, equals 21 watts. The combined illumination of the 42 leds should be equal to the illumination of a 20 watt bulb. Not a far off comparison judging visually. Now he says he's runnining it at 75 ma and a little under 12 volts. That's 9.2 watts. That gives Retrod a whopping C.O.P. of over two if I have all my data and math correct.
@Jonnydavro. Looks like starship engine room!

My math skills are old school, here goes.
I figure, Watts = Volts X Amps

On my tests tonight I connected a voltage doubler circuit so I could measure a DC output. I also was able to fully light 47 LED's. Here are the numbers

DC Input : Watts .382 Volts 8.5 Amps .045 (45 ma)
DC Output: Watts .266 Volts 133 Amps .002 (2 ma)
The output reading was taken at the LED string.

No free lunch yet, but I believe there is still power available to harvest. I haven't added any factor for the light produced or the battery being charged, these are honest input and output current readings. I will soon try the Lidmotor circuit to see if it will work with my twisted pair coil.

Thanks everyone for the encouraging comments and warm welcome.

Dave

[MileHigh]

I should be clearer about the AC voltage measurement. When the LEDs are on and the coil is conducting during the first half of the sine wave, there will be something that looks like sine wave but with the top hump chopped off so it never goes above 60 volts. That because the 42 LEDs will prevent the voltage than going any higher than that. Power is being dissipated in the LEDs during the first half of the cycle. During the second half of the sine wave the voltage may drop down to -120 volts, and the LEDs are switched off, and no power is being dissipated.

The multimeter is on AC voltage and is seeing a +60 volt chopped off peak one way and a smooth -120 volt peak the other way and displays 100 volts AC. That's the best approximation for the AC voltage that it can display. However, the true power through the LEDs is based on the first half of the cycle only, and the LEDs are non-linear devices that don't obey standard formulas. That is a tricky measurement to make.

[retrod]

I should be clearer about the AC voltage measurement. When the LEDs are on and the coil is conducting during the first half of the sine wave, there will be something that looks like sine wave but with the top hump chopped off so it never goes above 60 volts. That because the 42 LEDs will prevent the voltage than going any higher than that. Power is being dissipated in the LEDs during the first half of the cycle. During the second half of the sine wave the voltage may drop down to -120 volts, and the LEDs are switched off, and no power is being dissipated.

The multimeter is on AC voltage and is seeing a +60 volt chopped off peak one way and a smooth -120 volt peak the other way and displays 100 volts AC. That's the best approximation for the AC voltage that it can display. However, the true power through the LEDs is based on the first half of the cycle only, and the LEDs are non-linear devices that don't obey standard formulas. That is a tricky measurement to make.

That is why I added the voltage doubler with filter caps tonight, I wanted an honest DC current reading. A doubler responds well to the high frequency AC. I was using the filtered output tonight as B+ voltage on a small triode tube, very clean voltage with no hum, buzz or ripple. Your comments are important for all to remember moving forward in the measurement phase.

Dave

[Xenomorph]

Good News

@Jonny:

A youtube subscriber sent me an AMAZING link.
It is actually EXACTLY what we are looking for with the test tube magnets.
It uses Bismuth plates and it allows true levitation that will prevent the magnet from hitting the tube walls and insane speeds.
The guy in the video just gave it a burst of air through a straw and states that he has measured 100k RPM on his levitated magnets.
Here is the video:

YouTube - Bismuth Plates

That technology could revolutionize wind generators as well.

And the shape doesnt matter too, so highest power N52 square magnets could be used

[el-tigre]

Stabilized Shpere Rotor

I have tried several additional rotors (satellites) and they act more like a disturbance.
Dave (Retro-Dave)

Hey Dave, I have found a solution to stabilizing the orbit of large neo spheres. I am using a glass plate (salvaged lens from a dead rechargeable spotlight) above the bifilar coil, but it should work on a plastic lid as well.

What I do is start the shpere spining and when it has stabilized you simply hold a small, 2 mm or so (please test to confirm optimum size/weight/shape of steel stabilizer) flat steel washer under the plate and above the coil. When you let go of the washer, it is immediately attracted to the spinning neo shpere and zaps right underneath it so the glass plate is between the neo and the washer. The sphere continues to spin but is now locked in place by the magnetic attraction to the flat washer. The shpere spins up with no noticable reduction in rpms but does not orbit all over the plate. I can even drop my pickup coil right on top of it without dislodging the spin orbit at all. (Lidmotor, this rig runs very quietly and does not bounce and vibrate creating all the noise you must avoid)

(Jonny D, I can confirm that tilting the pickup coil on about a 45' angle directly above the neo shpere increases voltage exponentially. I can get over 30v out of this non-optimized setup. I am running a bridge rectifier and can output directly to a battery and by microscopically adjusting the coil position you can charge a hefty battery directly with this rig, very encouraging results! Hook up the discharged battery then very slowly lower the pickup coil into position until you get a positive charging rate. If you lower the coil too fast, lenz drag bumps your spinning neo out of position, use the lenz drag to govern power consumption, rpm and charge rate. I observe faster rpm gives better charge rate but uses more amps, 25-50% more or up to 130ma in my setup then charge rate falls off, additionally Bedini circuit works normally as well)

Jonny, thx for confirming levitated satellite experiment. I can also confirm that the neo rises up in the tube when cogged. Is this a magnetic effect, i.e. a magnetic amplification or is it a friction effect of the spinning satellite corkscrewing itself up the sides of the tube? Your double neo spheres satellite rises better than my cylinder neo, so if you spin it in the opposite direction and it climbs down the tube, maybe it is a friction effect. It would be very exciting if it can be confirmed as a magnetic amplification effect.

keep experimenting everyone, this is great stuff...

Now here is how we build the flying saucer... a giant magnetic coil and rotor on the ground,(cern accelerator size?) and a platform sitting on top of a repulsion magnet with a tube pointing downward and the satellite spinners within. When the rig is energized, up she rises... we'll figure out directional control and vertical stability issues later. Are you listening NASA, might be a relatively cost effective launch platform for future space missions very little onboard fuel required to get to space, much safer to provided the magnetic field is not so strong it pulls all the iron out of your blood )